The Lima is the name of the river that flows through Bagni di Lucca. It’s unusual in that it can be called both ‘Il’ Lima (masculine definite article) and ‘La’ Lima (feminine definite article. Indeed, the river is characterised by both stereotypically masculine features, like its often tempestuous course through rugged rocky canyons, and feminine ones (like its transit through gentler flood plains).

The source of the river is at the Abetone pass by the mountain of ‘Tre Potenze’. Lower down it’s fed by its tributary the Sestaione. The Lima (more useful to use the English article perhaps…) then goes through its most spectacular stage which are the gorges between the towns of La Lima and Bagni di Lucca, known as ‘I stretti di Cocciglia’. At Fornoli, after a thirty five mile course, the Lima joins up with the Serchio which leads into the sea near Migliarino.

The most precious feature of the Lima is that, between winter snows and summer storms, it never runs dry and can often be alarmingly full. This has led to a conflict between those wishing to exploit the river’s water power to generate electricity (as in the hydro-electric station and artificial lake above La Lima) and those who regard (like me) the river as a precious natural feature of the Italian landscape and wish to protect it from any form of exploitation.

Already the comune of Bagni di Lucca has fought successfully to prevent any further hydro-electric stations within its boundaries, arguing that the incredibly beautiful landscape of the river would generate a higher income from tourism than from any electricity generation.

The Lima provides a fabulous retreat from the often torrid summer heat of this part of the world. There’s no better swimming pool than its cool, limpid waters framed by wild rocks and deep forests. Well away from the crowded beaches of Versilia and the traffic choked roads leading to that popular seaside area, spending time by this river is truly a great way to pass a day. Toscana’s beaches may not be enchanting as those found in many other parts of the world but its fiume Lima magic is truly unique.

Here is a selection of photographs of the places we’ve spent by the river in recent days. I’m not saying exactly where these places are. Those familiar to the area will know anyway. For each one of us must find their ideal spot by the river’s side.