Italy abounds in walled towns but nowhere so than the north-east. Not surprising when one considers this area is the main crossroads between nordic, slavonic and mediterranean groups. Among the creme de la creme of walled towns are Montanara, Cittadella and Castefranco.

We had lunch in an excellent place called, appropriately La Torre as it was next to the town’s main gateway. The silent centre of this beautiful town has a conventionally neo-classical cathedral which harbours one of the world’s great paintings by an artist which approaches Leonardo in his transcendental mystery. It’s Giorgione’s pala or ceremonial depiction of the virgin and saints.

Next to the cathedral is the painter’s house with a wonderful decorative frieze, also by his hand.

It’s our second visit to this wonderful town and its frisson remained ever the same.