The castagnata is an essential autumn festa in Tuscany (or indeed any other region of Italy where chestnut trees grow). There was a time when the chestnut (castagno) supported this area’s population through the flour it produced when ground by special millstones. The ‘bread of the poor’ was considered a little shameful during the years of the Italian miracle of the sixties and seventies when a largely rural economy transformed itself into a largely industrial one. Yet it was the humble chestnut that saw villagers in the apennine areas overcome famine in difficult times like the second world war. (Read Eric Newby’s book ‘Love and war in the Apeninnes’ to know more).
Now, a little like oysters which in Dickensian times were considered equally a dish of the poor, the chestnut has made a big comeback and indeed it’s quite fashionable to eat necci (pancakes made from their flour) or delight in just munching roasted chestnuts. (I’m glad there are still chestnut roasters in the streets of London, too). To twist around Dr Johnson’s notorious definition of oats as applied to Scots, the chestnut which once supported the population is now a fashionable and, sometimes, pricey fare.
We’ve been to several castagnate over the years. Our first one (and still one of the largest in Tuscany) was at Marradi but there are many others throughout the region. Just check this link to find out about others in the region:
http://www.frammentiditoscana.it/castagna-ottobre-sagre-feste-toscana/
In our Lucchesia area there are many smaller ones but all are delightful. I’d put Lupinaia, Trassilico, Careggine (this October 15th) and Pontecosi (on the 29th of October) among our favourites. This year we returned to Cascio which has the added advantage of combining both necci and crisciolette, a dish peculiar to this village. (Do look up my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/08/01/whats-a-criscioletta/ to find out what these delicious things are and how to make them).
The Cascio castagnata was very well attended though we did have to spend a little time queuing. But it was all worth it. After all these feste are social occasions and a queue here is always a good occasion to mix and chat and is certainly not to be treated like the typical supermarket queue rush.
In Cascio’s sweet church we were treated to a great concert by the Coro delle Alpi Apuane. Italy is famous for its male-voice mountain choirs whose sound is somewhat reminiscent of Welsh valley choirs and even Russian ones.
There was a pleasant woodland walk to a local metato (chestnut drying hut) for a drink.
The stalls had some delightful local handicraft for sale.
This little fellow seemed to sum up the general feeling of camaraderie in the place. Don’t you think he is beautifully autumnal in his colours?
With four days of wall-to-wall sunshine promised to us which castagnata shall we choose for next week-end I wonder?
