Our cruise up the Yangtze included some optional excursions, not all of which we took.

However, shortly before reaching journey’s end at Chongqing we alighted from our vessel to visit the ghost city of Fengdu, a collection of hillside temples dedicated to the grisly subject of death.

Actually there are two ghosts cities, for the old town of Fengdu has been swallowed by the waters of the Yangtze and people now live in the new settlement which what it lacks in the character of the old town it makes up in modern and more hygienic facilities.

The passage through death to the underworld is a particularly complex one in China. The dead have to pass various tests and justify their life’s deeds (especially the bad ones) before a panel of often terrifying-looking gods. If they fail the tests the unfortunate souls are subject to years of torture which are too horrifying to describe here (although there are some very realistic statues on the site).

This is a graphic description of the Taoist-Buddhist idea that what goes around comes all the way back – otherwise expressed as being one’s own worst enemy.

We entered the ghost city via the gate to Youdu which leads to the capital of death called Diyu.

It’s very similar to hell in the west and the tortures inflicted are not that dissimilar from those described in Dante’s inferno: people are sawn in half, crushed under heavy weights, driven mad by huge flies, disembowelled etc.

Fortunately for us we managed the three main tests so were not torn to shreds by some maniacal demons.

The first of these tests involved us crossing the bridge of helplessness. The demons standing at the far end of the bridge, after a little hesitation, allowed us through. We were safe for the moment.

The second test involved facing Yama the King of Hell for judgement. Despite his gruesome expression Yama didn’t say anything to us so we passed this test as well. That was a relief!

The third test was to stand on a very slippery stone to the count of three without falling off. We managed this one as well so I presume for the foreseeable future we won’t have too much bother from Yama and his crew.

Actually the court of Hell seemed to us a very attractive place with some beautiful panoramas. I didn’t feel many of the Chinese people took it that seriously and, instead, there was a subdued holiday atmosphere.

The beautiful pagoda placed near Yama is the place where the souls of the dead can take a last look at the world of the living. This made me feel that the worst punishment the Death King can inflict is separation of those on the journey to the nether world from family and friends. And unfortunately this punishment works the other way too…

I was also particularly taken by this statue:

It represents the wreath-eating ghost who was a girl who stole wreaths from the statue of the Buddha. As a punishment she could only feed on wreaths and not food offerings after her death.

We headed down towards the river and our ship having defeated Death for the time being.