Clearly the quickest way to motor from Bagni di Lucca to Florence is to drive to Marlia and then catch the autostrada at Altopascio. However, there is a much more interesting way to get to Florence, free of autostrada tolls, with a fine place to eat en-route and with a journey time not much longer.
This route is to reach Altopascio but not to take the autostrada from thence. Instead, follow the signs to Empoli and when nearing Empoli watch out for the FI-PI-LI superstrada signs. The sign clearly alludes to Firenze, Pisa and Livorno and when you get onto the superstrada you just follow the direction for Florence and exit practically at the entrance to the wonderful Viale dei Colli. Within minutes you are admiring this classic view of the Lily city.
From Altopascio the route crosses some of the most beautiful parts of the Val D’Arno. The first section takes one through the Cerbaie which are quite similar to the heathlands of the North Downs near Guildford in the UK. In fact, both are geologically of the same structure. Le Cerbaie is, however, the morainic uplands deposited at the end of the ice-age glaciers which once covered Tuscany and formed the Arno valley. You’ll know when you enter the Cerbaie since beautiful woodland spreads along much of it. Here is the protected natural area of Montefalcone which rises west of the Fucecchio Lake (great for bird-watching) and reaches up to 500 feet in height.
At some stage in the journey there’s a sign to Galleno. Take it to reach a typical Tuscan trattoria since the main road by-passes Galleno.
In Galleno, noted more for its hunters than for any historical masterpieces, there’s the ‘Gola di Bacco’, a trattoria with a great atmosphere.
What’s on offer? First the host Fernando and his wife, whose welcoming is truly heart-warming.
Then, but only if you understand Italian since there’s no written menu and certainly no prices mentioned, Fernando will offer you a list of items including ‘selvaggina’, which is locally hunted wild-life.
We opted for maltagliate (in our area known as maccheroni) with sauces made of venison and wild boar.
Sandra’s mum took the wild mushroom soup:
This was followed by a variety of meats including bistecca (beef steak) and pheasant.
At this stage we were more than replete so we asked for our doggy bags which lasted us well into the next day when we returned home.
While one misses the great artistic cities of Pistoia and Prato which one can get to on the autostrada there are still plenty of amazing sights (some of which we‘ve described in previous posts) including Empoli, San Miniato del Tedesco (birthplace of the classic filmmakers Taviani brothers, one of whom, Vittorio, has sadly died recently), Vinci (birthplace of Leonardo) and the great Caruso’s villa.
You can follow these places up in my posts at:
https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/02/make-it-an-interesting-journey-from-bdl-to-florence/
https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/10/09/the-biggest-wetland-in-italy/
https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/03/30/the-greatest-of-all-singers-his-villa/
On normal situations we would not have chosen such a lush restaurant but we were all hungry and thirsty and still some way from our humble abode in previous areas all was shut here we’d seen a pizzeria stopped but alas was also firmly shut so we ventured towards this place La Gola di Bacco. Fernando greeted us and quite overwhelmingly charming as we explained our needs. The fact that they had a nice soup for Mother persuaded us that this was just what we wanted. Also Fernando reckons that as we all know like attracts like and he emphasised that only true artists pass through his doors very flattering indeed. We also met his most charming wife Mila who acts as cook and also runs their sugo pasta sauce company at Boutique Mila Orentano nearby in fact we were given a delicious almond pesto pot. The maccheroni or maltagliate are actually as the word suggests badly cut or even unevenly cut pieces of homemade pasta seasoned in various meat sauces each with large pieces of cacciagione meat really a complete meal in itself as we struggled with our mixed selvaggina dish. The nicest couple we have ever met in this area who took time to be and speak with their guests we even have an open invitation to return with our friends. Il Camino dei Ciclamini is that sweetly painted corridor to the wee room as it is sometimes called in Scotland! Good value good company fun time was had by all and the mushroom soup was excellent all porcini the harder small ones are used to give bite to the soup not the large mushy ones gracefully laid over a small thin slice of garlic bread wonderful! Next time we hope to visit the sugo Boutique Mila.
Thanks for your very informative comment.