La Valletta, Malta’s capital, may lay claim to be one of the first planned cities of modern Europe. After the Great Siege of 1565 and the defeat of the Ottoman forces the Knights of Saint John felt the need to build a new fortified centre on the island as a defence against possible further incursions from the Turk. La Valletta was, therefore, founded in 1566 by the Knights who gave it the name of their Grand Master, Jean de la Valette.

Laid out in a grid pattern and surrounded by massive fortifications Valletta enchants one as soon the main gate is crossed. The grid pattern itself is not just designed to be neat, for its straight streets lined by tall buildings enable the capital to be well-ventilated and shaded thus attenuating the ferocious summer heat.

(1723 Plan of La Valletta)

What is less enchanting, however, is the innovative development at the gate. This consists of new parliament buildings designed by Enzo Piano which have given rise to much controversy, largely because they contrast so much with the sixteenth-century architecture of the city. During our visit the buildings were being constructed and under wraps so we could not fairly judge for ourselves.

Certainly, the adaption of Fort Saint Elmo, for example, might have given the Maltese parliament a more respectful building.

Next to the parliament building are the ruins of the grand nineteenth century opera house bombed by those supreme opera-lovers, the Italian air force, when they entered the war in 1940. Again, we did not yet see what ‘Shard’ Piano was going to do with this building. He has, nonetheless, preserved the opera house’s ruined status but converted it into an open-air theatre.

This conversion seems less controversial. In any case La Valletta has one of the most beautiful original eighteenth century theatres in the world which still retains its supreme importance in Maltese cultural life. The Teatru Manoel could not allow something else to steal its fire. But I anticipate….

We loved wandering through the streets of La Valletta. In particular I enjoyed gazing at the traditional Maltese balconies built to shade its inhabitants from the summer heat. Called ‘gallariji’ in Maltese (note the Italian linguistic influence) these charming features are supported on stone corbels called saljaturi (c.f. Italian : sogliature) with the hinged glass flaps known as are purtelli (cf. Italian sportelli) and their blinds are known as tendini (cf. Italian: tendine).

Apart from shading the occupants from the heat the gallariji are used for hanging out the washing and, formerly, as a way for marriageable belles to disport themselves before prospective suitors while safely being tucked away from the perils of the streets.

Galleriji come in all shapes and sizes and have often finely carved ‘saljaturi’. Here is a small selection of them. I love the way some of them curve round the corners of the buildings.

As you can see I just couldn’t get enough of these marvellous architectural features which are so characteristic of traditional Maltese buildings. I sometimes think that with the smaller galleriji affixed onto terraced houses there is a connection with the love of English suburbia for bay windows. Both extend from the main building and both allow extra light to enter their houses.

Later in our visit to Malta we were able to see the elegant interiors of the more aristocratic of these houses and walk down a gallerija. But that must await another post…