There are remedies close at hand in the Lucchesia if one has become overheated during the recent weeks of ‘Lucifer’ or the ‘African bubble’: a heat wave that has afflicted most of Italy until recently. The seaside and the banks of our Lima River are great ways of cooling down. My favourite , however, is to head for the mountains and plateaux which surround us.

The Pizzorne is one such altipiano – plateau – on our way back to Longoio from Lucca. Since Lucca is just 16 feet above sea level and the Pizzorne reach a height of 3,500 feet that makes a difference of 3,484 feet. As temperatures drop 5.4 degrees centigrade per 1000 feet it’s easy to see that, on average, it’s going to be at least 15 degree colder on the Pizzorne – and that’s not including the wind factor and the forest shade.

The Lucchesi, like so many other inhabitants of Italian cities surrounded by hills and mountains are lucky in a way that those living in flatter countries, like the UK, are not. Every Italian city has its hill station easily reachable within a short drive. There is no excuse for sweltering in the summer heat of a city when there are so many delectably cooler places in the surrounding hills.

Yesterday we decided to return home from Lucca via the Matraia road which leads off from Marlia. The views from this road are stratospheric.

At one point we could closely see the whole of old Lucca surrounded by its tree-lined walls and its grass moat. You’ll spot Lucca in this photo below.

We quickly reached the Pizzorne plateau on our classic 4 X 4 Panda. Here, there’s a scattering of houses and a little centre with a sweet chapel.

Further afield is the ancient abbey of San Bartolomeo surrounded by an ample lawn – a popular picnic spot. Although the building was closed we managed to sneak this view through part of the window.

Nearby is the Aldebaran bar and restaurant  which doubles as a mountain refuge in the winter. Here one can either order a take-away meal or eat in the restaurant. Incidentally, Aldebaran is the brightest star in the constellation of Taurus and the 14^th brightest star in the heavens. It certainly is a bright spot among the Pizzorne.

After a noisy night of thunderstorms, yesterday was actually a little chilly so we decided to eat in the restaurant which is delightfully kitsch as these photos show.

We started off with farfalle pasta with venison and nuts, which was absolutely heavenly: the combination of all-dente pasta, hazelnuts and deer was, indeed, very special.

We did, however feel a little guilty about a cervo (deer) looking at us just round the corner.

This dish was followed by chunks of venison with sautéed bietola (chard) and chips.

We skipped the dessert as we were already pretty full but decided on a coffee.

Our journey from le Pizzorne descended down through Pariana which seemed to us to be largely untouched by holiday homes and still very much a working community. Without anything of special interest in itself Pariana must be an excellent centre for walking and mountain biking. The road linking it to the Pizzorne was only completed relatively recently.

We then reached Botticino and the valley of the ‘cartiere’ or paper mills. There is a particular beauty about the old industrial buildings which the more modern extensions clearly lack.

Thence it was a climb via Boveglio over the Trebbio pass to Benabbio with its wonderful views of the Apuan Alps. We’ll be back to this town today for there’s going to be a grigliata festa in the ground of the castle of the Lupari, which has been the subject of fascinating archaeological digs.

So in one day we found a more equable climate, superb views, uncontaminated nature, food to die for and a fair smattering of historical interest. Such are the delights in our part of the world!