The Brancoleria is the name given to a valley that is part of the Pizzorne, the hills to the north east of Lucca and which are foothills of the Apennine range. The valley possesses a micro-climate which gives it very special characteristics with its variety of fauna and flora. The Brancoleria also has some of the most beautiful churches in Lucchesia and is great walking country.

One walk I’ve done in the past is that which goes to the largest cross in the province – that of Brancoli. We returned to the cross, this time in our mini SUV 4-wheel drive Panda, the last week of May.

Brancoli cross is erected on the site of a watchtower  built by the gonfalonier Ferrante Sbarra in 1594 to enable defence forces to see the plain of Lucca, the Apuan Alps, the Media Valle del Serchio, the Apennines and the Tyrrhenian Sea up to the Islands of Capraia and Gorgona. It served as a watchtower until the eighteenth century and linked with the Bargiglio (see my post on ‘the eye of Lucca’ at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/10/15/the-eye-of-lucca/ ).  The watchtower was later abandoned when times became more peaceful and in 1900 its remaining ruins were demolished to build a huge cross to celebrate the new twentieth century.

The way to the cross is a Via Crucis with smaller crosses marking the Stations of the Cross:

The views from the cross are quite splendid even though the day was  clouding over in preparation for the great storm that was to spread over the whole area in late afternoon.

The Cross was built in stone and was blessed by the Bishop of Lucca, Giovanni Volpi. It became a destination for pilgrimages but in 1944, towards the end of WWII, was destroyed by the Germans, being considered a threat, because of its clearly identifiable position for allied aircraft (no GPS then!) After the war the Cross was rebuilt re-using stones of the old cross and the altar of the church of San Bartolomeo which was also destroyed.

Remnant of WWII can still be seen in the nearby trenches built as part of the Gothic Line (see my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/05/26/secret-mission-across-the-gothic-line-a-success/ for more on the Gothic Line).

It’s crazy how a religious symbol signifying peace and redemption should have been blown up and then made part of a last-ditch attempt by the Germans to save the Third Reich which was now threatened on three fronts: the allies from the west and south and the Soviets from the east. Such is the supreme irony of our human condition!

Here are some hints on how to get to the cross

By car

From Lucca follow the SS 12 towards Abetone, up to the locality Vinchiana. Then follow the sign for the Brancoleria and the Church of San Giusto di Brancoli.  Here you can leave your car and continue on foot.

Walks to the Cross of Brancoli

For Trekking lovers there are two routes that include the Cross of Brancoli and take around five hours.

First route – From the Church of San Giusto di Brancoli, where you leave the car, follow the road which starts metalled but then continues unmetalled until the junction, where a wooden sign indicates the Cross on the right. Afterwards continue along the unmetalled road until you get to Deccio di Brancoli and, later, to Piazza di Brancoli where you can visit the medieval church of the twelfth century. From here continue to Gignano, a town known for La Tosca restaurant which is highly recommended by trip advisor (we haven’t yet eaten there).

Second  Route – A new path has recently been opened which is part of the’ Sentieri delle Colline lucchesi’ leading to the Cross di Brancoli. It starts from the Church of Anchiano, where you leave the car, and take the new path marked with wooden tables. Walking time is five hours but I haven’t tested this path yet.