The ‘presepe vivente’ or living nativity scene (or living crib) is a Christian tradition representing, with real people and animals, the birth of Jesus in a setting recalling the story of the nativity.
The first ever living nativity scene was set up by Saint Francis of Assisi, in the village of Greccio, near Rieti, in 1223.
Francis wanted to recall Christ’s birth during a trip to Palestine. When in the autumn of 1223 he went to Rome to see Pope Honorius III, he asked the Holy Father for permission to make a living crib which the Pope gave to him. Francis returned to the village of Greccio near Rieti as it reminded him of Bethlehem and said to his friend, Giovanni Velita: “I want to celebrate Christmas Eve here. Let’s choose a cave, build a manger and there lead a cow and a donkey, and try make it as far as possible like the stable in Bethlehem. This is my wish, because I want to envisage, at least once in my lifetime, with my own eyes, the birth of the Divine Infant “.
Since then, the tradition has spread to the rest of Italy and other Christian countries. Today, living nativity scenes are organized almost throughout the Western Christian world, not only in Catholic countries, but also by members of other Churches. This year, for example and appropriately since it’s Europe’s City of Culture, Hull is re-enacting a living Christmas nativity the details of which may be found at https://www.visithull.org/whatson/events/live-nativity/
However, it’s in Italy that the tradition is strongest as it was born here. Moreover, the traditional stone villages of the Appennines lend themselves naturally to a characteristic nativity setting without having recourse to any ‘stagey’ settings.
In our part of the world the villages of Granaiola, Pieve di Monti di Villa and Monti di Villa have been organising, in turn, a truly wonderful living Christmas crib. This year it was Monti di Villa’s turn and, in my opinion, this arc-shaped village striding the ridge that separates the Val di Lima from the Val Fegana lends itself quite wonderfully.
Organizing the living nativity scenes is the responsibility of the village and the characters are, for the most part, its actual inhabitants. Although historically not set in AD 0 the occasion is a prime opportunity to show ancient crafts of the place which are sadly in the process of disappearing or have disappeared altogether.
It’s wonderful to see the old crafts which made these villages virtually self-sufficient: the carpenters, the iron-workers, the washerwomen, the knife-grinders, the bakers, the village school, the spinners, the sock-darners, the cobblers, the chestnut roasters… Truly, this way of life as re-enacted in the meticulously re-created scenes would be one of the few to survive in a major energy crisis on our planet. (Place mouse over pictures to learn more).
All the implements have been taken out of old village sheds, the clothes hang as family heirlooms: one man wore his great-grandfather’s herring-bone coat and even his cap, for example.
The itinerary, very well documented, through the charming village stops at various refreshment points where vin brulee, necci (chestnut pancakes), pizza, grilled meat, biscuits, doughnuts, hot chocolate and cotton candy are produced.
I particularly enjoyed my tigella which is a flat, round-shaped bread peculiar to the Apennines (especially the region around Modena) and baked inside a specially formed lidded saucepan called a tigelliera which is held over a flame – I suppose the nearest one could get to the UK are crumpets.
If you want to have a go at making tigelle there’s an excellent recipe for making tigelle at
https://www.silviocicchi.com/pizzachef/le-tigelle-ricetta-e-preparazione/?lang=en
I had mine with biroldo (Tuscan blood sausage) but ricotta or the omnipresent Nutella is equally appropriate.
Throughout the afternoon the sky was overcast, it was cold and in the evening a drizzle set which, fortunately did not spoil the nativity itself.
The ‘presepe vivente’ truly brings one closer to the essential spirit of Christmas than any opulent displays in West End stores. It’s miles away from the ghastly commercialisation of this important Christian festival and fully enters into its heart besides giving all those who visit it a great lesson into something of what life what was like in times which the older inhabitants of our valleys can still recollect.
PS If you missed the presepe vivente at Monti di Villa there’s still a chance to visit many others in our part of the world. For example at Montefegatesi
and at Anchiano
We first came across these wonderful Presepe Vivente when we were invited via a special friend to participate in various roles over the years at the Presepe Vivente of Equi Terme. It was truly very magical a great feat of organisation and this lasted for several days we were normally role playing on the last night which was most exciting. Each year the baby Jesus was chosen from the local community last born before the event the tableaux of the actual Nativity is represented at the end in a wonderful natural grotto very effective indeed with live animals to set and complete the scene. Truly I miss these moments of actual participation as also the wonderful hospitality afforded to us by the indefatigable Venicia. The public enjoyed this event too as there was audience participation and true to form there were the postazioni of the various arts and crafts of the time as well as vin brûlée cialde nuts fruit and various other seasonal delightful refreshments. Carols filled the ether as did candlelit paths and the public enjoyed the intriguing ramble around and through the village. Indeed this does enliven these Christmas Festivities and this activity brings together whole village people with their participation. Whether you are audience or role player the experience is indeed uplifting and it is quite amazing to see so many various and different arts and crafts that each Presepe Vivente offers also it is a good way to brush up ones skills and to keep these ancient activities alive.
I do appeciate very much your lively comments. Thank you so much for writing!
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