My Godmother Re-found

Posted on July 19, 2019. Updated August 19th 2025

The English word for “padrino” is godfather, and for “madrina” is godmother. These English words more clearly describe the role of an important person as a witness at the baptism and in caring for the spiritual and Christian development of the newborn. Sometimes, the godfather and godmother can even assume the role of father and mother if, through some misfortune, the parents pass away.

In fact, it was only in the fifth century that the importance of the godfather and godmother was fully recognised by the Church.

Of course, the religion of the witnesses at the baptism must be identical to that of the parents, and this was one of the many difficulties my mother faced when she emigrated from Milan to be with her English husband in London.

They married in a church near Porta Nuova (Santa Maria Incoronata?) in April 1948. My mother had already been pregnant for several months (a situation considered quite irregular at the time) and I entered the world the following August in Lewisham Hospital, South-East London.

Arriving in a large and grey (as it was then) foreign city, with little knowledge of the language, notorious for its semantic deceptions, its eccentric grammar, and, above all, its pronunciation; welcomed among my father’s relatives, not all of whom were welcoming to a bride from a country that a few years earlier had been an enemy of the United Kingdom, and, above all, from a Protestant nation, Vera wanted to find a godmother for my baptism (I don’t remember who my godfather was). She found one among my father’s relatives, since her husband’s mother came from a family of lapsed Catholics. I was baptized in Saint Saviour’s Church in Lewisham.

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My mother became close friends with this relative, who, however, remained Catholic. She was a cousin of my father’s and her name was Helen Irene Search. Our maternal grandmother, Norah née Lynn was one of many siblings.  The boys, Thomas, David and Joseph died in the First World War.  The girls were Mary, Lavinia, Sarah and Ruth.  Ruth died at the age of 9.  Mary married but died young and Helen was her daughter.  Helen was looked after by Sarah and husband George after her mother died.

I remember little about Helen. In 1954, she was struck by cancer, and I went with my mother to visit her in the hospital. I remember Helen’s sweet face and her weak but gentle voice.

Shortly afterwards the inevitable happened. My mother was in Italy and told me she received a letter from my father, not with a black border, but with the words written on the envelope: “Read this in a quiet place. This letter contains sad news.”

For my mother, the death of a dear friend, one who had welcomed her with genuine cordiality among her new in-laws in a foreign country, the only one of the same religion and with a similar outlook certainly was a particularly hard blow. I remember that, especially in the first years after Helen’s death, she would take me to visit the cemetery where my godmother was buried, the one in Erith. The cemetery was spread out on a hill not far from the Thames, which in this area of east London takes on the size of a large estuary.

One day, a wind was blowing so strong from the east that, as a child, I could barely stand up and didn’t want to walk across the cemetery to reach the grave. ‘Come on,’ my mother said, ‘don’t you want to visit your godmother?’ And so I reached the grave.

Years later, when I was a teacher at Erith College, I realized that the cemetery where my godmother was buried was nearby, so I visited it with my wife. It was sy to make out the grave, and the inscription was clearly legible.

I returned again, years later to the spot in the cemetery where I remembered Helen was buried. I spent over an hour searching for her, but to no avail. I asked a warden if he could help me. He gave me a telephone number for the local funeral parlour.. I asked, ‘Has the grave been exhumed?’ ‘Not at all,’ he replied. ‘Here, when you are buried, the grave remains there forever. Only time will make it disappear into the darkness of the earth.’

Two days later, a town hall employee sent me an email with the number and the section where my godmother was buried.

I returned to Erith and recognized the cemetery warden who helped me find the grave almost immediately. I say “almost immediately” because many of the graves had been obscured by bushes, shrubs, and succulents.

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Anyway, I found it: my godmother’s last resting place on earth.

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I had to do a little cleaning to remove the plants from the inscription marking her name, the date of death (January 13, 1954), her age at death (forty-three), and the inscription “Rest in Peace.”

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I hadn’t brought any flowers with me, but I picked a few daisies and some yellow-flowered succulents and placed them in a container at the head of the grave.

I remember that the monument was arranged by Helen’s immediate family, and that the grave was once always well-kept. What happened to that family?

It was up to me, the godson, to make her name known to the world again.

Maybe I’ll have to find a stonemason to restore the tomb’s marbles. At least my godmother had a visitor. Far from a faint memory, I own only one book by her, Rudyard Kipling’s “The Jungle Book,” with its fabulous tales of Mowgli, Shere Khan the tiger, Baloo the bear, and Rikki-tikki-tavi, the mongoose who saves the boy’s life from Nag the cobra by killing the snake.

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It’s a fabulous book, one of my favourites; a collection of stories that inspired me years later to hitchhike, as a teenager, to India, a wonderful country I later stayed in for two years and which I revisited with my wife in 2000 and 2017.

When I first wrote this account I didn’t have a single photograph of my godmother but on 19th August 2025, exactly six years later, I received an email from my cousin Joanna enclosing a childhood photograph of Helen which my cousin Freesia had sent her. It clearly shows Helen in her Confirmation / First Communion dress holding a bunch of flowers. Thank you so much dear cousin Freesia for this wonderful gift.

Gone with the Wind:

memories fade

but the heart remains.

Two Great Servants

Two significant deaths have taken place in the past week in the UK. Two very different people have left this planet, two persons which in some way have influenced our own lives.

As a sixteen-year-old, browsing through my school library, I noticed a book titled ‘The Duke of Edinburgh speaks.’ Not particularly drawn to royalty I was curious to know what sort of things Prince Philip was speaking about. And in that book he brought to my attention themes which are now considered to be of urgent concern to our lives on Earth: from nature conservancy to, more controversially, the argument  that the world population explosion cannot carry on the way it is doing without drastic consequence to the planet’s ecosystem.

Prince Philip also played another significant role in our lives or at least in the life of my father-in law cavaliere Dino Cipriani, the secretary-general of the Italian institute of culture in London’s Belgrave Square for it was part of Dino’s job to help organize the royal family’s visits to Italy, whether state or informal. The Royal couple’s visits to ‘iI bel paese’ must surely have been a much loved highlight of their world tours and clearly Prince Charles has more than inherited his parent’s love of our Mediterranean peninsula.

Hodge, Southwark’s cathedral new cat and successor to the much loved Doorkins Magnificat, Sandra photographed Hodge at the end of the Eucharist memorial service dedicated to Prince Philip which she attended last week. Clearly he misses the prince as well.

The other death that occurred recently was that of a great lady with a very particular political influence. The daughter of another significant figure, Vera Brittain, author of ‘A testament of Youth’,  Shirley Williams was a key figure in that hopeful decade in British politics when the boring two-party system seemed doomed for a considerable part of the electorate clamouring for a centrist movement. It was a time when one could walk all the way from London Bridge to Erith in either Liberal or Social Democrat territory. There was Simon Hughes in Bermondsey, Rosie Barnes in Greenwich and John Cartwright in Woolwich. Rosie’s victory and her electrifying inaugural speech are still recollected by many who lived through those heady times. I was present when John Cartwright linked with the Social Democrats and opened a campaigning office in Anglesea Road, Woolwich. He was joined by Roy Jenkins and Shirley who amusedly remarked on the very earnest portrait of himself Cartwright had plastered on his campaign poster.

Some years later the dream was shattered. The ghastly Tories moved further to the right and espoused a parochial policy which we all now have to suffer under, in particular the people of Northern Ireland and the fishermen of Scotland. Labour dithered under a succession of opposing leaderships. Yet even here there was a last encounter with Shirley Williams. Sandra was quite recently shopping in Pimlico’s Waitrose branch, her favoured stomping ground when she met up with Mrs Williams (whose previous husbands included the provost of my old Cambridge college). I quote from Sandra: “I met Shirley at Waitrose Victoria. She was shopping there and could not find her shopping. I with staff tried to help her. She was a very lovely friendly lady!”

May Prince Philip and Shirley Williams rest in peace for they both carried that word in their hearts which is so important for all humanity, ‘Service’.

A Plague Church Resuscitated?

Yesterday was  Italy’s first national  commemoration day in memory of its covid dead and Bagni Di Lucca was no exception in remembering this sad occasion with its own twenty nine  positive cases, four of which are in intensive care and its fifty quarantined families.

One year to the day when the shocking train of army trucks bearing the bodies of Bergamo Covid victims was shown on TV I passed the melancholy ruined shell of the former plague church of San Rocco located at the junction between the main Controneria road and the turn-off to the village of Vetteglia. San Rocco had been open for services until the 1970s when the Lucca bishopric declared the church redundant.  It was soon looted of its fitments and the weather did the rest.

I noticed this sign stuck on the facade:

Translated this notice, placed there by persons unknown last month, means.

“In this building which is no longer a church, why not make it into a meeting place for young people to be together and exchanges ideas and plans. From this more initiatives arise. If there are people who would like this to happen. let’s do it and invite local associations to join in. Covid will end. Life continues.”

Interestingly I’d thought about a similar use for this despoiled building when last year I wrote:

“I at least would feel inclined that to give thanks to the Almighty for eventually delivering us from the pandemic we could have the former church of San Rocco outside nearby Vetteglia and now in a ruinous condition memoralizing  this event and restored as a refreshment and information point for modern-day pilgrims to the extraordinarily beautiful area of the Controneria.”

I do hope something on this line can be done when things get back to as normal as I’m sure they will be before too long.

PS. In case you didn’t know San Rocco was invoked against the plague and, judging by the number of churches dedicated to him, was particularly venerated. Born in a noble family the saint gave his wealth to the poor and became a mendicant pilgrim. During his travels the town of Acquapendente became badly affected by the Black Death; Saint Roch stopped there and healed its victims by making the sign of the cross over them. He cured the sick of several other plague-ridden towns without catching the disease himself. However, when the saint reached Piacenza in northern Italy he fell victim and a fetid ulcer developed in his leg. So rank was its smell that people kept well away from him. Luckily a dog befriended Roch and brought him some food daily and even licked his ulcer clean. Hence St. Roch has also become the patron saint of dogs. So let’s have a refreshment point here for dog walkers and their pets too!

Divide and Rule?

On this murky morning in the Val di Lima, after much of our very heavy snowfalls have melted away, one thing is clear: we shall be spared another four years of one of the most divisive political leaders the world has seen for some time. The USA has a long history of what it has called ‘splendid isolationism’. Pearl harbour changed all that and if it hadn’t Europe would be suffering under the successors of another divisive leadership – the one appointed as chancellor of a certain nation in 1933. OK, the Capitol attackers were eventually thrown out. But so were the Munich bier Keller putsch adherents in 1923. Let us hope and trust, however, that this won’t happen again in another ten years’ time despite the promise (or threat) that ‘we will return’

A good political leader unites – a bad political leader divides. It’s that simple and that’s why so many of the issues that set us apart from others including, sadly, some of our family and (now former) friends were instigated by political machinations.

I was amazed to discover that in Bagni di Lucca there are people around who still believe that the previous POTUS was the best thing since sliced bread. Even more, that he had been unfairly treated. How could a person who diminished the USA’s prestige in the world, someone who, in the midst of all the news he condemned as ‘fake’, was the biggest fake himself; someone who has left a nation (and much of the world) in a position desperately needing hope and healing feel deceitfully treated?

Luckily the new POTUS in a true atmosphere of benevolent grandfatherliness has already signed several decrees reversing the damage that would have continued under the previous office holder: damage to the environment, damage to the efforts to contain the worst pandemic seen for over a hundred years, damage to the social fabric itself and much else.

Sadly, the maiming that was encouraged under the USA’s previous administration will be difficult to be repaired in at least one other country: the United Kingdom. The new president has little time for the B word and the UK had always been seen as the gateway into Europe not just in terms of trade but quintessentially as the way to cease that continent’s near-Armageddon in the two World Wars of the last century.

(Sandra meeting a soldier from the Roman Army when England was part of a previous European Union called the Roman Empire.)

The wall that the UK has built around itself cannot be physically seen but only felt in the increasing number of bureaucratic and fiscal barriers being knocked against by the continent’s inhabitants. We already know about finny beings dumped into the sea because of inoperable trade agreements and the confiscation of bacon butties from truck drivers by the customs authorities because of import restrictions. There is now a lot more of this sort of thing on the way ready to make the UK feel itself ever more a separate nation cut off from the continent not just by today’s fog but by further red tape in the form of hardened fiscal controls and taxes. Already everyone from large organisations to individuals is starting to suffer. The great financial institutions, which have made the City of London into a world hub, are already establishing office s in the EU and increasingly will transact business from those offices.  We all know now about the limited mobility thrust upon our passports and the confiscation of a whole citizenship from them. Everything from roaming charges to pet passports is being affected. Let us trust that all citizens are now sufficiently well-informed. What is especially significant in these times of on-line trading is that UK inhabitants will be forced to pay considerable duties on previously duty-free items shipped from the EU. More and yet more will follow. Everyone in the UK will be worse off than before for at least another twenty years…

It took four years for the majority of the American people to fully realise what kind of president they had voted for. I just hope it won’t take longer than that for the UK to finally realise what a futile exercise brexit is.

We are all free to hold our own opinions in a democracy but there is no room for schadenfreude in this ‘fortress UK’ situation. The white cliffs of Dover will still be standing and continue to form part of the same geological chalk belt that extends into northern France.

(When Dover was blocked against barbarians by the Roman army instead of being blocked by queues of HGV’s on the M2. Our photos dating from 1987…)

There is no great need to say ‘I told you so’ for it will be on all our heads. What is now needed is for the majority to fully realise the tragedy that has befallen the UK and to unite in ways that may restore at the very least the membership of a customs union and a trade concordat. Let us hope that those still believing that Britain has regained its ‘sovereignty’ in spite of the fact that it is now at the mercy of the rest of the world and effectively grovelling to sign trade agreements which will never be as good as those it had when a member of the EU.

(A local mountain, the Balzo Nero, now more appropriately to be called  ‘Balzo Bianco’ because of the recent snows)

However, what is even more pressing today is to consider how to terminate the world health crisis before it terminates us. In a democracy we are plainly entitled to hold our views on vaccination and decide whether to go for the jab or not. Yet even this issue is dividing people as much as anything else can divide. I do not care if a person holds views against vaccination. They will have their reasons for holding such views, perhaps because of personal experiences under previous vaccinations they may have had. (I am less enthusiastic about ‘religious reasons’). My maxim is ‘stand fast to your own views but be prepared to modify them if new facts come to light. And never spend the rest of your life trying to convince others that they must embrace your way of thinking about issues.’  After all it would be a dull world if everyone held the identical opinion – a world rather like those synchronically marching in step soldiers one views in victory parades from the northern half of an East Asian peninsula.

That’s why a facebook group centred on those living in our beautiful nearby city of Lucca gives me great concern. A member of the admin group vetting contributions from senders appears to be using the platform to expound views against vaccination in an almost obsessive way merely instilling dissent and consternation among other group members. Admin should be neutral in such matters, rather like the Speaker in the UK’s House of Commons.

Perhaps we should restrict our discussions as to which bar serves the best ‘pezzi dolci’ or which is the easiest footpath to get to the top of Monte Incoronata (actually there is only one here: the ’Via degli Avi’ recently restored to much acclaim). However, we must also realise that it’s no good playing the violin while fires rage around us (to paraphrase what a Roman emperor is supposed to have done).

The saddest thing of all, however, is that friendships and alliances will be almost irreparably damaged if I, for example, find that someone else’s views on global warming, Trump, vaccination, fascism, Brexit, flying saucers, some religious organizations, meat-eating, flat earth theory etc. etc. are so different from mine as to render any rational communication impossible with them. When friendships are broken this way then it’s truly a tragedy… perhaps often worse than most other things that occur in this troubled world.

Of Social Distancing and other Oxymora

One of the most erroneous terms used in the current world health crisis is that of ‘social distancing’. If there ever was such a weird oxymoron then this must be it.

In case you weren’t quite sure what an oxymoron is then, simply put, it is a self-contradictory phrase. Most of us use oxymora without realising their inherent contradiction; for example, ‘civil war’, as if ever any war was civil, or ‘loving hate’. Great literary figures have used this figure of speech to describe the undescribable. Just think of Milton’s Satan in ‘Paradise Lost’ stuck in a hell with no light but only ‘darkness visible’.

One of the most famous examples of a whole string of oxymora is in Shakespeare’s play when Romeo declares:

Why, then, O brawling love! O loving hate!
O anything, of nothing first create!
O heavy lightness! serious vanity!
Mis-shapen chaos of well-seeming forms!
Feather of lead, bright smoke, cold fire, sick health!
Still-waking sleep, that is not what it is!
This love feel I, that feel no love in this.

The word ‘social’ can be interpreted in many ways. For example, ‘social’ used as a noun means any occasion where people come together and mix.  ‘Social’ used as an adjective signifies any person or place which attracts people. A ‘social person’ usually has many friends and a ‘social centre’ is a place where people who may suffer from loneliness come together and receive friendliness and community spirit.

So ‘social distancing’ is not just an absurd oxymoron: it is an impossibility. OK, we may have to stick two metres apart from each other in the current situation. (Why two metres instead of six and a half feet apart? Isn’t the UK now outside the EU and its citizens presumably free to buy two pounds of potatoes instead of 0,907185 kilos of them, for example, by returning to ‘imperial measurements??) Besides even if physically we are two metres apart that does not necessarily mean that we are ‘distancing’ our ‘social’ life. Our friends will still remain our friends whether they are two metres or two thousand miles or kilometres apart. Friendship knows no physical distance. It’s not just because of today’s communication technology such as WhatsApp but because friendship itself is a concept that is beyond such material limitations.

Italians have once more appropriated an English term, cut it in half (like ‘self’ instead of ‘self-service, or ‘night’ instead of ‘nightclub’). In this case the word ‘social’ in Italy is used to describe any social network, like Facebook, Twitter, indeed the whole world of internet communication and exchange.

No not ‘social distancing’– the word to use is ‘societal distancing’, a small but subtle difference.  If ‘social’ has to do with human relationships and groups of people within a society, ‘societal’ has to do with society as a whole. This means that you can still be ‘social’ without having to consider ‘distancing’ but also ‘societal’ in respecting that distancing.

Societal distancing has always been around ever since the dawn of mankind. All societies have various systems of stratification and some have developed them into highly complex hierarchical organizations. Just consider the Indian caste system, still going strong in many parts of the sub-continent, where one is born into a particular caste, marries within that caste and dies within that caste.

In western society such rigid societal schemes have largely vanished and mobility and integration are the flavour of the new millennia. However, just cast your eyes on the pages of any Victorian novel and you will find heroines dispossessed of their wealth by marriage to someone ‘below’ them or children who are the fruit of an extra-marital affair being made to suffer a life of privation (until they find their true love of course).

In Italy this state of societal affairs can still exist ranging to marrying someone from another village whose inhabitants are disapproved in some way. In our area this used to be the case, for example, between the denizens of Crasciana and Casabasciana. Within communities themselves friendships and marriages may be disapproved between families: historically most famously, of course, between those Montagues and those Capulets.

Is there societal distancing in Bagni di Lucca? Of course there is. It existed well before its new conversion into ‘social distancing’ during the current pandemic, and is likely to continue to exist even after the pandemic has finally died away. The standard English word for it is ‘to snub’ and its Italian equivalent is easily remembered for it is ‘snobbare’.

“Ignoring LinkedIn requests is the new ‘get lost’.”

Some of the best examples of snubbing occur in the wonderfully entertaining and sensitive novels of Jane Austen which I have enjoyed re-reading during this health crisis. In ‘Northanger Abbey’, for example, the heroine Catherine Moorland is hurt by the Tilney’s, who she thought were her friends, snubbing of her in the streets of Bath (although this avoidance of acknowledgment of each other’s presence really stemmed from a misunderstanding).

Societal distancing, or snubbing, in Bagni di Lucca has a very long history and reached its peak with the arrival of the emigrant English (euphemistically now called ‘ex-pats’).  Robert and Elizabeth Browning seemed to spend much of their time in Bagni di Lucca avoiding the English. They just could not take their country folks’ strange amalgam of self-important ‘superiority’ and their utter ignorance of Italian cultural values and life-style. It was almost like the stereotypical colonial administrator among the pagan savages.

With the arrival of a wider spectrum of inhabitants from the United Kingdom societal distancing became ever more entrenched in the English (or should I say British) .  My visitors from England have noted, after just a few days here, how many brits tend to avoid each other even to the extent of avoiding joining in certain events if they know that X is there.  One Brit resident even went to the extent of secretly moving out of Bagni by stealth because she could not take this truly ‘anti-social distancing’.

Bagni di Lucca is infused with brits who are constantly snubbing each other. They avoid certain bars (those of which are now still open that is) because Y goes there. And if they find Y there they make sure they are sitting at a table as distant as possible from Y. We too have been exposed to this ridiculous snubbing situation. Even during this pandemic crisis, when any sort of social encounter becomes a welcomed human interaction, we have been on a guided walk around the environs of this beautiful spa town completely ignored by someone (who had best remain nameless in the interests of propriety). So-called cultivated persons from middle England complain of the influx into Bagni di Lucca of northern Englanders who they consider an inferior species for some reason.

I could go on about this but it has ceased affecting me very much at all. I continue to remain amused, however, by the phrase ‘social distancing’ as if it had not existed before Covid-19. Social (or more properly ‘societal’ distancing’) has always been around and exists in particularly virulent form in places like Bagni di Lucca.

Fortunately, I have realised for some time any kind of friendship is highly fragile and as changeable as the clouds in the sky. If anyone is lucky in having five persons one can trust (apart from one’s spouse, of course), then one is truly blessed, especially in a place like Bagni di Lucca.

Perhaps when this pandemic has finally been defeated the traditional ‘societal distancers’ may finally discover that ‘social distancing’ is, in fact, anti-social’…

Spoilsport Befana

January 6th, is a national holiday in Italy. As any Christian will know January 6th is Epiphany, the day when the Wise Men arrive from the east to present their gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus. The whole event is incomparably summed up in the poem by T. S. Eliot when one of the Magi looks back on the difficult journey they had undertaken. I can do nothing more here than quote in full this sublime poem:

The Journey Of The Magi

‘A cold coming we had of it,
Just the worst time of the year
For a journey, and such a long journey:
The ways deep and the weather sharp,
The very dead of winter.’
And the camels galled, sorefooted, refractory,
Lying down in the melting snow.
There were times we regretted
The summer palaces on slopes, the terraces,
And the silken girls bringing sherbet.
Then the camel men cursing and grumbling
and running away, and wanting their liquor and women,
And the night-fires going out, and the lack of shelters,
And the cities hostile and the towns unfriendly
And the villages dirty and charging high prices:
A hard time we had of it.
At the end we preferred to travel all night,
Sleeping in snatches,
With the voices singing in our ears, saying
That this was all folly.

Then at dawn we came down to a temperate valley,
Wet, below the snow line, smelling of vegetation;
With a running stream and a water-mill beating the darkness,
And three trees on the low sky,
And an old white horse galloped away in the meadow.
Then we came to a tavern with vine-leaves over the lintel,
Six hands at an open door dicing for pieces of silver,
And feet kicking the empty wine-skins.
But there was no information, and so we continued
And arriving at evening, not a moment too soon
Finding the place; it was (you might say) satisfactory.

All this was a long time ago, I remember,
And I would do it again, but set down
This set down
This: were we led all that way for
Birth or Death? There was a Birth, certainly
We had evidence and no doubt. I had seen birth and death,
But had thought they were different; this Birth was
Hard and bitter agony for us, like Death, our death.
We returned to our places, these Kingdoms,
But no longer at ease here, in the old dispensation,
With an alien people clutching their gods.
I should be glad of another death.

 It would certainly have been a tough journey for the Wise Men if they had to cross our part of the world. We’ve had the worst (or best some enthusiasts might say) snowfall for over ten years. The Val di Lima and our village have been turned into a veritable winter wonderland.

In Italy it’s also the time of” La Befana” when a very old, ugly white-witch comes on the eve of January 6th to fill up the stockings of good children with sweets and those of bad children with coal (at least that’ll be useful for heating up our houses on these extremely cold evenings.) La Befana is, of course, a corruption of the word “epiphany” but how did this beneficent old crone come onto the scene in Italian households in the first place?

As with the majority of Christian rites, ”la Befana” has a pagan origin. In Roman times the goddess of fertility would sweep the skies at the winter solstice to augur the return of growth in the fields. The broom was a symbol of the cleansing of the earth for the new forthcoming growing season. (Harry Potter eat your heart out…).

The early Christians condemned such practises as heretical and this beautiful goddess was thus turned into a horrible witch. However, the locals would have none of this and, in her uglified version, the Befana returned to reign supreme in children’s minds in this custom.

Indeed, a further story was added to retain la Befana’s credibility. In this version the Three Wise Men meet an aged crone and ask her the way. Only afterwards does la Befana realise the importance of this encounter and tries to find the Magi. She asks everywhere and, where indications are had, gives sweets and presents to the children of the households hoping that one of the houses will, indeed, shelter the baby Jesus. Originally children would place shoes and stockings to help the Befana on her quest. Later, shoes were discarded but the stockings remained, to be filled with goodies.

Epiphany is also the time when, by popular consent, the Christmas season ends. As the couplet says.

L’epifania 

Tutte le feste porta via

(“Epiphany takes away all festivities”).

Liturgically, this is quite incorrect, however since it’s the presentation of Christ in the temple that officially ends the Christmas season, on February 2nd, at the festival called the Candelora where candles are presented and blessed to symbolise the advent of Christ’s light upon the world.

Under normal circumstances La Befana is celebrated everywhere in Italy with many local variants. One of the best celebrations in Tuscany is the Florence’s Epiphany parade which I have posted at  https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/11/a-cold-coming-we-had-of-it/

In our area the best celebrations are to be found at Barga and last year there were also children-oriented events in Bagni di Lucca including a vivacious pantomime acted by local Red Cross volunteers

Since the winter holidays are so short in Italy it also means that the children would be able to return soon afterwards to school, hopefully in an optimistic mood after their days of being spoilt rotten. Sadly this year for obvious reasons this will not be possible and there is still much debate in Italy, as there is in the UK, whether even nurseries should be opened.

There is a Tuscan variant of the little rhyme about the Befana which goes as follows:

La Befana vien di notte
con le scarpe tutte rotte
attraversa tutti i tetti
porta bambole e confetti .

(The Befana comes by night

With shoes in disrepair

She crosses all the roofs

Bringing dolls and lots of sweets).

How do we adults fit into all this? In 2007 I was a wise man (Melchior, I think) at one of the most beautiful Presepi Viventi (living cribs) in our part of the world: the presepe of Equi Terme just across the “border” in Lunigiana.

Let us sincerely hope that the events characterising the Italian Christmas season will be back in full swing next year. We have missed so many things: the living presepi or cribs when village people dress up and re-enact the events of Bethlehem as shepherds, angels, wise men and the Holy Family itself, the midnight Mass at the convent of the Angel, the ice-skating rink at Lucca and, most of all, the ability of being able to hug and kiss our friends in perfect safety.

In such a relatively homogenous culture as Italy these temporary losses are quite heart-rending. So much enthusiastic community effort is put into their preparation However, it is far better to miss them for one season than to run the risk of losing our own lives and those of our loved ones to the dreaded virus!

In respect of this and the vaccine I recently received the following good news from one of my British cousins:

“I just wanted to advise you that Aunt D (aged 99) has now had her first Covid vaccination of the two recommended. On Friday the 8th January I received a call from her surgery receptionist asking if I would be able to attend at the surgery to provide the first inoculation. We agreed a time and it passed off without incident.

It was a very well organized operation and Aunt D did not suffer any reaction at all on the day.  I was allowed to accompany her throughout the procedure which was completed inside 20 minutes.

She seemed quite chirpy after the appointment. Aunt D was given the Oxford AstraZeneca vaccine at the surgery.”

So there we are.  As the Joni Mitchell song goes “Don’t it always seem to go
That you don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone.”

Let’s make sure our traditional festivities and comradeship don’t go away next Christmas!

Merry Christmas / Buon Natale

 

This is a busy Christmas night
while all adore the little child.
Joseph brings in the hay to feed
the donkey on this night so mild.

The virgin mum with softest gaze
looks on the miracle that’s passed
and three young faces join with hers
upon a mystery so vast.

And from the mountains come the pipes,
gigantic figure from afar,
to play a gentle pastorale
upon this place of the great star.

Bright chubby angels congregate,
below the crib a dog keeps guard
and shepherd’s son presents a dove
while more are pointed to the yard.

What music may we hear this night,
what converse from all present here?
The sound of joy must echo far
and join us all in pleasant cheer!

(Traduzione)

NATIVITA’ (Domenichino)

Questa è una notte di Natale intensa:
mentre tutti adorano il piccolo bambino.
Giuseppe porta il fieno per nutrire
l’asino in questa notte così mite.

La mamma vergine con lo sguardo più morbido
guarda il miracolo che è passato
e tre giovani facce si uniscono a lei
su un mistero così vasto.
 
E dalle montagne arrivano le cornamuse.
Una figura gigantesca da lontano,
suona una dolce pastorale
in questo luogo sotto la grande stella.
 
I paffuti angeli brillanti si riuniscono;
sotto la culla un cane fa la guardia
e il figlio di pastore presenta una colomba
mentre più sono indicati al presepe.
 

Che musica possiamo ascoltare questa notte?
Di che cosa conversano tutti i presenti qui?
Il suono della gioia deve risuonare lontano
e unire noi tutti in un allegria piacevole!

Note; The painting of the Adoration of the Shepherds of c. 1607–10 by the Italian 17th century master Domenichino, previously in our school’s picture gallery, (Dulwich College)  was sold for £105,000 to the National Gallery of Scotland in 1971 to pay for roof repairs. 

My Christmas Carol

This will be an introspective Christmas for many. It will certainly be rather different for all.  So many, in various states of isolation brought on by the present world health crisis, will muse on their own Christmases past, present and future. Like Dickens’ immortal tale we shall be visited by the ghosts of those three spirits of Christmas.

One will remember that the first spirit, the Ghost of Christmas Past, takes Scrooge to the Christmas scenes of his boyhood, reminding him of a time when he was more innocent but also where he makes his first mistakes including the ending of his engagement to his fiancée Belle.

The ghost of my Christmas past brings on a rather mixed bag of memories. Joyously, I will be reminded of happy Christmases spent with my grandparents in Milan where the tree was decorated with lights in the shape of little houses, cottages and chapels, where there was a lovely animated crib in the parish church of San Camillo, where presents, especially from my aunt were truly special like that clockwork excavator from ‘Western Zone’ Germany

and where lunches were graced with panettone and panforte.

The English Christmases were somewhat less enjoyable. I wonder why? Perhaps it was because my mum really wished she was back in Milan celebrating an Italian-style Christmas and not one with that cheapest of meat for Italy, turkey, and that stodgy pudding. Perhaps that’s why she was more often than not, in an irritable mood, especially on one occasion when my brother secretly opened his presents before the appointed time.

One will remember that the second spirit, the Ghost of Christmas Present, takes Scrooge to a jolly market with people buying food for their Christmas dinner. Everyone is in a happy mood no matter how poor they may be. My second spirit of Christmas first showed himself himself when I married Sandra. Suddenly so many things changed for the better, even though we were so often quite poor, and Christmas became a truly joyous occasion with visits to Sandra’s Italian parents in north London and a lunch supervised to exquisite perfection by her Florentine father. Every Christmas with Sandra has been a joy and our rituals of decorating the house, making the nativity crib, going to Midnight Mass at London’s, Saint Etheldreda’s

 or Lucca’s chiesa dell’Angelo,

adorning the Christmas tree with lights and baubles and giving presents to each other with the names of our cats has followed a reassuringly set pattern.

For only four Christmases, including, unfortunately, the one this year, in our forty-three years of marriage years of marriage have we been apart. One of them was when I spent it Greenwich hospital with an embolism and the other this year – well we all know the reason why so many people will not be spending their Christmases this year with their families. (Incidentally it’s a slightly cold comfort to know that at least two of my friends from Lucca are marooned like Sandra in London. And clearly they are missing their lovely city badly).

The third spirit, the Ghost of Christmas Yet to come, shows Scrooge a Christmas Day in the future and reveals scenes involving the death of a disliked man whose funeral is attended by local businessmen only on condition that lunch is provided. That disliked man is, of course, Scrooge himself.

What will the third spirit, the ghost of Christmas future, bring for all of us? Who knows? I suspect, however, that it will not start brilliantly for many unless the world changes its attitudes on many things – in particular on money….. It will start even less well for the UK thanks to the will of a slim majority of persons who voted to cut the continent off from their thoughts in the mistaken belief of regaining their sovereignty.

In this respect it is pleasantly ironic that the first group of people offering food and help to the beleaguered truck drivers blocked on the roads to Dover were the Sikh community – immigrants to the United Kingdom.  All praise to them for showing the true spirit of Christmas. They stand for the changed Scrooge when he is shown a neglected grave, with a tombstone bearing his name. Breaking down and sobbing, Scrooge pledges to change his ways. The first thing he does is to order a goose for his poor exploited employee Bob Cratchit. As the carol says:  “They go and collect the goose, with which they soon returned in high procession.”

And, as Tiny Tim observed, “God bless Us, Every One!”

The Longest Night

Whether we’re in a red, orange or yellow day in Italy may matter little to today’s five big points for me:

First, it’s a beautifully sunny day,

It’s one of the last such days we’ll be having before Christmas, for soon the real below-freezing winter will start and our plants will have to be protected if they are not to die.

Second, it’s going to be a rerun of the Star of Bethlehem as seen by the three Wise Men in AD zero. Jupiter and Saturn are in conjunction and it will be a treat to see such a bright light in the sky tonight. Let’s not miss this sight since another eight hundred years may pass before we get a similar chance.

Third. It’s the year’s shortest day…and the longest night. As John Donne writes in that quintessentially sad poem ‘A Nocturnal upon St. Lucy’s Day’this both the year’s, and the day’s deep midnight is”.

Fourth. If the UK has shut the door on Europe, Europe has done the same on Britain. But this time it’s not because of a misplaced political choice but because of a very real health emergency. The Continent (and the rest of the world) do not wish to be invaded by mutants, especially if they originate from Dover or Heathrow.

Fifth. For many people (like us) it’s going to be a zoomingly whatsapping Christmas with virtual lunches (but some real conversations at least). Yes we’ve been marooned: Sandra in the UK and I in Italy. All those cancelled flights, all those false hopes etc. It’s only the fourth time we’ve not spent Christmas together since we married over forty years ago. This is pretty good going, however, and for so many of us Christmas can be any day we wish. Like Miss Havisham with her cancelled wedding party I’ll keep the decorations up but will refrain from having rats on the dining table rushing about eating the panettone and may even do a bit of dusting to wipe those cobwebs away.

I will also not continue to wear my Santa Claus hat when going out. And as for those Christmas carols…

If anything this Christmas season will teach us many things. We are all refugees in our own countries and all in need of that little extra piece of love and humanity from others. Let’s trust we all receive that as a present at least.

A Modelling Career

The combination of seemingly unstoppable rain for almost a fortnight now combined with our drastic cut to social life thanks to covid and the predictably disastrous end to the biggest con executed upon the British people since the dissolution of the monasteries – I refer, of course, to the no-deal – may drive some of the more susceptible of us  to drink and despair and the less susceptible to spend more time on personal leisure activities whether these be the exploration of the more abstruse passages of the Kama Sutra or other exotic practises to develop the mind and other parts.

I’ve tended to find that a nice way to get one’s mind off the present calamitous world situation (actually hasn’t any world situation since the end of the last Ice Age been calamitous) is to take to modelling. No, not for Vogue, not even to photograph some alluring siren on the cat walk – I’ve my own felines to do that. Here’s one I did in marquetry some years back:

But, instead, to indulge in a hobby I have enjoyed on and off since my earliest days: that of making miniatures of buildings or modes of transport or animals using a variety of materials.

For wood there’s my vague Sopwith camel imitation.

Sandra may probably manage to come over here on this cardboard version of a monoplane:

Of buildings this will probably be the closest I’ll get to owning a castle.

The nice thing about it is that the keep slides off to reveal the inner sanctum of the lordly habitation complete with treasure chest and minstrels.

Of course, the ancient Romans were more laid back with one of their villas here, complete with triclinium and Arcadian arbour.

As for Lucca’s mediaeval times I’ve managed to piece together this miniaturised version of the Guinigi tower. Making it from a pre-printed postcard was really too small for comfort.

I love my prehistoric and not so prehistoric animals: our planet’s denizens if it goes on any further like this might soon join them

Our bathroom is not exempt from this activity although it tends to concentrate more on fluorescent jigsaws and plastic fish.

Of models that actually work I’ve this variety of gliders. When younger I used to have great fun making them with the more sophisticated Keil Kraft gliders (remember them?).

I love messing about in boats (having obtained a RYA certificate in the Thames waters):

And cutting cute woodland book ends have been my pride and joy.

There’s nothing to beat a typical English nineteen thirties semi. Here are a couple I’ve completed for nostalgia’s sake.

My finest model is not on show. Regrettably it got lost in transit from the UK to Italy many years ago

I’d spent ages on the cardboard version of one of Spain’s most fabulous buildings; the King’s palace of Escorial. I’d even fitted it up with interior lights and with loudspeakers to transmit the motets of that greatest of Hispanic renaissance composers Tomas Luis de Victoria. I also added a bit of Soler who was also resident at the palace, played exquisitely by friend Gilbert Roland who has recorded every one of his amazing sonatas. Who knows where this model is now? Not even the company that supplied me the parts for its construction is in existence any more. ‘Sic transit…

At least my Victorian house remains. It has proved most useful in my English lessons to Italian children. They all now know what upstairs/downstairs means…and as for counterpanes,

This chap is a frenetic jazz drummer I picked up in pieces from a fabulous wood modelling centre in Wales at Timberkits models in the heart of beautiful mid wales. Our drummer will shortly have a double bass player to keep him company. Just turn their Handels and hear the sounds that come out.

There is a pile of Airfix-type models I still have to piece together. If the bloody pandemic carries on like this I, might well have to complete further warships and tanks in order to fight the world’s injustices

Anyway the best modelists are Italians both in the wonderful way the world’s most beautiful girls do the cat walk with the world’s most gorgeous dresses and with the presepi or cribs which every Christmas tide grace Italian churches and streets. Sadly this year there will be so much fewer of them around but I will still attempt to hunt out those that are on display. At least my one poor effort, cobbled from some ready-made ones, and my own additions will grace the mantelpiece on top of our fire this Christmastide.

And, by the way, with all the snow that’s happened and the extra we are promised we cannot do without this little multi-coloured snowman I also recently put together.