11.30 AM on the 29th of November 1924

On November 4th he took the train for Doctor Ledoux’s clinic in Brussels, one of only two places then treating cancer with radium.  Although he received a handful of visitors he felt so alone. His wife had remained in Milan.

He was in such pain. Not only physical because of the crystal needles injected into his throat, the tracheotomy, the connecting tubes to feed him and give him breath but also psychological.

The maestro was utterly depressed. He’d brought his sketches along hoping to finish his work, hoping to find the inspiration for that final duet where the ice-cold princess melts into the embrace of the prince.

But how could he do anything in the situation he now found himself? Of course the doctor kept on assuring him that the cure was going to be successful. All the signs pointed to that. But his son was told differently. There would be no cure.

He’d taken a few days out for a walk in the city and visited the local opera house. He’d even attended the start of a performance of one of his own works. But, too tired he’d left the theatre before the finish.

He thought of his recent visit to the village of his family’s village a family of five generations of musicians. He remembered how pleased the locals had been at seeing him, how they celebrated his visit with twelve garlanded arches one for each of his operas. He’d been so moved by their loving naiveté.

The end came but it was not his throat that had given way. It was his heart. A massive stroke right there where his sentiments came from.

He’d wanted to slip away quietly but it was not to be. The funeral cortege led by four black horses pulling a profusely garlanded hearse, was lined by large crowds.

The service in the Royal church of Saint Mary was accompanied by organ playing the funeral music from his early opera ‘Edgar’. How much time had he spent on this work which had not gained anything like the success he’d wished. He tried and tried again to make it work. Rewriting it. But now the irony: it was thought most fitting for his own funeral.

And his princess? Abandoned like the unnamed prince’s serving girl. Unfinished. But could he have ever finished his masterpiece? Would he ever have found the inspiration to find transformational music turning her from indifference to passionate love? Would future critics ever say that it was best that he’d died when he did for he would never have been able to find that music in his heart? Would lesser hands have finished it in a mockery of what he wished?

As the coffin was brought to the train from Ostend to begin its journey to Milan and his homeland what thoughts had entered the minds of those who’d been moved by his music?

Many years later another conductor found himself in that country in a city where the National Opera had the cast to sing the composer’s work in a less cantabile language: Flemish. I was there staying in his house, a young lad more interested in Bach and the Beatles than in this for me sentimentalised tedium and told him so. ‘I’d give my right arm to write just one page of what the maestro wrote,’ affirmed the conductor. That for me was the beginning of a sea-change of attitude towards the composer. A change that has led to this time of year where it seems the whole world that has a heart is mourning the passing of a great soul and a true expresser of human emotion in the transcendental art of music. That is why this will be for me and for so many a time of reflection and joy that we have his music to illuminate our lives in the anniversary of his death one hundred years ago.

Giacomo Puccini (22 December1858 – 29 November 1924)

Laying a wreath on the front of the Puccini family home at Celle this November

Walking to Garwood

A walk yesterday through Belair Park to Dulwich picture gallery for an exhibition of Tirzah Garwood’s art expressed in woodcuts, paintings, marbling, 3D collages, tapestry and watercolours. An absolute treat from the wife of war artist Eric Ravilious and in the company of cousins too!


Ieri una passeggiata attraverso il parco di Belair alla galleria d’arte di Dulwich per una mostra di Tirzah Garwood espressa in xilografie, dipinti, marmorizzazioni, collage 3D, arazzi e acquerelli. Una vera chicca da parte della moglie dell’artista di guerra Eric Ravilious, morta a soli 42 anni nel 1951, e tanto piacevole in compagnia dei cugini!

Utopia or Dystopia

Wandering round Wembley in yesterday’s sunny day I came across this RC church by architects Reynolds and Scott. Erected in 1955-7 with three Byzantine-style saucer domes and attractive stained glass its style was already dated by the fifties. However, the church is rather more attractive for me than those pretending to be ‘modern’ and I was pleased that it’s now grade two listed.

The local allotments nearby looked thriving.

Yesterday was also a Covent Garden ballet evening for us with ‘Maddadam’, inspired by Margaret Atwood’s dystopic trilogy. Max Richter’ score was powerfully post-minimalist and the dancers were amazing. It was a disturbing but striking performance giving an insight into how our world could easily unfold.


Ieri, mentre passeggiavo per Wembley, in una giornata di sole, mi sono trovato in questa chiesa cattolica degli architetti Reynolds e Scott. Eretta nel 1955-7 con tre cupole interne in stile bizantino e attraenti vetrate colorate, il suo stile era già sorpassato negli anni Cinquanta. Tuttavia, la chiesa è molto più attraente per me di quelle che fingono di essere “moderne” e sono stato contento che ora sia classificata di secondo grado per valore culturale.

Gli orti locali vicino, sembravano prosperare.

Ieri è anche stata una serata di balletto al Covent Garden per noi con “Maddadam”, ispirato alla trilogia distopica di Margaret Atwood. La musica di Max Richter era fortemente post-minimalista e i ballerini erano fantastici. È stata una performance inquietante ma sorprendente che ha dato uno spaccato di come il nostro mondo potrebbe facilmente dispiegarsi.

Playing with Flying Colours

Cold, miserable weather in London did not prevent us from enjoying a concert given by the Royal Air Force at Charlton House, now getting ready for Christmas. The band (which plays at royal and ceremonial events) included Piazzola which brought us back to the Tango composer’s family’s origin in Massa Sassorosso, Garfagnana. Afterwards we enjoyed a nice snack at the nearby café.


Il freddo e il clima inclemente di Londra non ci hanno impedito di goderci un concerto tenuto dalla Royal Air Force (Aeronautica Militare Britannica) a Charlton House, che ora si sta preparando per Natale. La band, che suono’ al funerale di Sua Maestà la Regina Elisabetta II, ha incluso Piazzola, il che ci ha riportato alle origini della famiglia del compositore di tango a Massa Sassorosso, in Garfagnana. Dopo ci siamo goduti uno spuntino piacevole al bar lì vicino.

A Yellow or a Pink Jersey?

A ‘Giro d’Italia’ but a slightly different one from the the famous cycle race immortalised by the likes of Coppi and Bartali. In the elegance of fin-de-siecle Wigmore Hall ‘La Serenissima’ baroque music ensemble, named after the Venetian Republic, gave us a pick of 18th composers from Bologna, Venice, Lucca, Rome, Naples and Palermo. As usual Vivaldi came out tops. It was a great way to spend an evening in ever colder London and meet up with friends too!


Un “Giro d’Italia”, ma leggermente diverso dalla famosa corsa ciclistica immortalata da personaggi del calibro di Coppi e Bartali. Nell’eleganza della Wigmore Hall di fine secolo, l’ensemble di musica barocca “La Serenissima”, che prende il nome dalla Repubblica di Venezia, ci ha offerto una selezione di compositori del XVIII secolo provenienti da Bologna, Venezia, Lucca, Roma, Napoli e Palermo. Come al solito, Vivaldi è uscito vincitore. È stato un ottimo modo per trascorrere una serata nella sempre più fredda Londra e anche per incontrare gli amici!

Playboy Meets Schoolgirl

Tchaikovsky’s opera ‘Eugene Onegin’ performed at Jackson’s Lane Arts Centre has been a highlight of our London visit. As our university contemporary and chair of HGO wrote:

‘Great that you enjoyed it ! I think Eleanor’s production was very fine, ideally scaled to the venue. And of course it’s so good having a cast close to the ages of the characters it portrays’.

Tchaikovsky’s opera was first performed in 1879 when the composer was 38. It’s based on Pushkin’s verse novel where playboy Eugene Onegin’s relationship with schoolgirl Tatyana, deeply infatuated with him, causes the death of his best friend Lensky in a duel. After years of wanderings Onegin’s indifference turns to love when he recognises a now empowered Tatyana who rejects him for another…her husband and leaves him to regret and despair.

The final performance received a well-deserved standing ovation.

No longer kept in the Darke

Our City of London lunchtime with the bluest of skies and feasting on organ music by composer of Britain’s favourite Christmas carol.

We were at St Michael Cornhill where Harold Darke was organist for half a century. Fine music superbly played by Jonathan Rennert, resident organist for almost as long as Darke.

And here’s that favourite Christmas carol:


La nostra ora di pranzo nella City di Londra con il cielo più azzurro e banchettando con la musica d’organo del compositore del canto natalizio preferito della Gran Bretagna.

Eravamo a St Michael Cornhill dove Harold Darke è stato organista per mezzo secolo. Ottima musica suonata in modo superbo da Jonathan Rennert, organista residente per quasi lo stesso periodo di Darke.

Ed ecco quel canto natalizio preferito:

Bringing the Nations Together Through Music

The church of Santa Maria Corteorlandini in Lucca was packed with mourners for the funeral of Elio Antichi, one of Lucca’s most significant and loved figures in the city’s musical scene. Elio was director of the ‘Il Baluardo’ choir specialising in a grass roots repertoire and came to sing for us at Fornoli church.

Elio was paramount in bringing international musicians together. I remember, for example, when he brought London’s Ealing Symphony orchestra to play in Santa Maria Corteorlandini. We could not be absent for this farewell to a great person who displayed in exemplary manner the power of music to unite people.

Elio Antichi at Fornoli:
https://wp.me/p4KnVs-7HA

Ealing Symphony Orchestra in Lucca:
https://wp.me/p8ybdb-aS


La chiesa di Santa Maria Corteorlandini a Lucca era gremita di persone in lutto per il funerale di Elio Antichi, una delle figure più significative e amate della scena musicale lucchese. Elio era direttore del coro “Il Baluardo”, particolarmente specializzato in musica folkloristica e che è venuto a cantare alla chiesa di Fornoli.

Elio è stato fondamentale nel riunire musicisti internazionali. Ricordiamo quando ha portato l’orchestra sinfonica Ealing di Londra a suonare a Santa Maria Corteorlandini. Non potevamo essere assenti per questo addio a una grande persona che ha mostrato in modo esemplare il potere della musica di unire le persone.

Elio Antichi a Fornoli:
https://wp.me/p4KnVs-7HA

Ealing Symphony Orchestra in Lucca:
https://wp.me/p8ybdb-aS