Broad Sunlit Uplands or Narrow Dank Marshes?

The intensity of the split between those British citizens who still wish to remain within the European Community and those who are gladly leaving it will, in my opinion (despite a so-called ‘democratic referendum which actually showed that the majority wanted to remain) only increase in its force after this January 31st 2020.

There can be no wait for another general election: the referendum result – although it was merely advisory and although no legitimate quorum was allowed – is speciously moulded in stone; indeed sculpted in Carrara marble for that stalwart band of brits (some even resident in Italy (!!!)) who gladly  leave a club from which they felt they never got free drinks, or even any nibbles, a referendum ‘result’ which is truly cast in already rotting concrete mocking all those who care for a Europe that has the integrity and force to stand up and be counted before the mega-economies of China and the US of A.

I can only be grateful that I have chosen to become a member of the European community as my area to live, work and love in and never relinquish my European citizenships. I don’t think I would psychologically last very long in the burgeoning eruption of false economic, trade and social promises which an utterly dishonest quasi-totalitarian police-state regime (labelled ‘airstrip one’ in 1984) is now foisting on an island which our greatest poet once described as ‘This other Eden, demi-paradise’.

Don’t forget Brexit has not been done today …it has barely begun! The worse is yet to come…it will NEVER be done.

The really awful thing is that the leavers are ever more believers in the fatuous righteousness of their decision (just like the cult members of Guiana’s Jonesville – remember that one?) while the remainers are now taking shelter either by leaving the country or by seeking pockets of sanity (like my city of birth and breeding, London).

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I am reminded of the harsh criticism in a sonnet by a poet who really cared for his country, William Wordsworth:

 

England … is become a fen

Of stagnant waters: altar, sword, and pen,

Fireside, the heroic wealth of hall and bower,

Have forfeited their ancient English dower

Of inward happiness. We are selfish men;

Oh! raise us up, return to us again;

And give us manners, virtue, freedom, power.

Thy soul was like a Star, and dwelt apart:

Thou hadst a voice whose sound was like the sea:

Pure as the naked heavens, majestic, free,

So didst thou travel on life’s common way,

In cheerful godliness; and yet thy heart

The lowliest duties on herself did lay.

 

Meanwhile, leavers do enjoy yourselves this Friday night at 11pm!

After forty seven years in which the UK has been lifted from the doldrums of British Leyland-style strikes, power cuts and much else that was grey and loathsome and embraced almost half a century of  increasingly successful membership, the sceptered isle leaves the European Union.

You injudicious Brexiteers enjoy your party in college green! There will be fireworks, Big Ben bonging and a rousing address from your beloved leader (sorry….our prime minister). Wonderful speeches are promised by stars like Ann Widdecombe, Tim Martin and Julia Hartley-Brewer all bathed in the Uk’s traditionally forecast drizzle.

As George Orwell wrote in his essay ‘England your England’ (note no ‘Scotland’, ‘Wales’ or ‘Ireland’) – an essay which still has immense value especially that part centred around the word ‘hypocrisy’, especially aptly featured in those brexiteers who have become residents in Italy and deluding themselves of having their cake and eating it.

“…as Europeans go, the English are not intellectual. They have a horror of abstract thought, they feel no need for any philosophy or systematic ‘world-view’. Nor is this because they are ‘practical’, as they are so fond of claiming for themselves. One has only to look at their methods of town planning and water supply, their obstinate clinging to everything that is out of date and a nuisance, a spelling system that defies analysis, and a system of weights and measures that is intelligible only to the compilers of arithmetic books, to see how little they care about mere efficiency. But they have a certain power of acting without taking thought. Their world-famed hypocrisy – their double-faced attitude towards the Empire, for instance – is bound up with this. Also, in moments of supreme crisis the whole nation can suddenly draw together and act upon a species of instinct, really a code of conduct which is understood by almost everyone, though never formulated. The phrase that Hitler coined for the Germans, ‘a sleep-walking people’, would have been better applied to the English. Not that there is anything to be proud of in being called a sleep-walker.”

That ‘nation of sleep-walkers’ sums it up quite brilliantly. Will you accept one of those newly minted ‘celebration’ fifty pence pieces? Will you sleep walk off the white cliffs?

Happily if I ever return to my birthplace, it will be to the inimitable, cosmopolitan and glorious metropolis of London, the city that has given shelter and hospitality to the world’s greatest defenders of freedom (Mazzini from Italy, Ho Chi Min from Vietnam and Marx from Russia just to name three). I would, in my dreams, make London into a free city, Hanseatic league style: a city that stands apart from that crass diminutive mentality so aptly described by Orwell; a city that on a genuine day of sunshine rises proudly astride the great river Thames. As Joseph Conrad (another foreigner, this time from Poland, made welcome by the great Wen) wrote:

What greatness had not floated on the ebb of that river into the mystery of an unknown earth! . . . The dreams of men and the seed of commonwealths.

I return to Wordsworth who, on Westminster Bridge, wrote:

Earth has not any thing to show more fair:

Dull would he be of soul who could pass by

A sight so touching in its majesty:

This City now doth, like a garment, wear

The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,

Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie

Open unto the fields, and to the sky;

All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.

Never did sun more beautifully steep

In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;

Ne’er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!

The river glideth at his own sweet will:

Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;

And all that mighty heart is lying still!

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This end of January is truly a day of dark foreboding but we believers in the Community of Europe will never give up, never surrender that which is God-given, the beating heart and unity of one of the world’s great continents. Long live the European Community!

 

 

 

 

 

Tour de Barga?

For the next few weeks physio has been laid on for me at Barga hospital’s excellent department. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays it’s exercise bike time and on Tuesdays and Thursdays it’s gym.

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The exercises are very carefully graded and we are electronically monitored and have our blood pressure regularly taken during the one –hour session.

On the wall is a diagram showing the categories of exercise in ascending order of difficulty. I dread reaching the final stage!

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In the afternoon I take a walk in the area surrounding our house. Gradually I feel my strength coming back and I am reliably informed that I shall feel better than ever before once the thirty sessions will have completed. I’m utterly sure it’s going to be fine.
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Springing Too Soon?

Those of you who use Facebook and have opted to become one of my Facebook friends will no doubt find out that there are more blog photographs and extra information available on my facebook page which is at the following link:

https://www.facebook.com/fpettitt

There is clearly no obligation for you to use this link or even apply for FB friendship with me: I have merely mentioned it in case you already use Facebook and want a quick way to access my blog at

https://longoio3.com/

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Global warming is the biggest issue affecting our planet today and, although we have had our truly cold spells this winter it seems a long time since snow had lain on our village paths for any period of time. Indeed towards mid-day the sun shines on our valley with almost spring-like intensity and wild daffodils are appearing in the woods.

Certainly the weather is not what it used to be when I first arrived here almost fifteen years ago and it is very worrying. Some things we don’t miss of course: those sheets of ice and burst water pipes, for example, but I just wonder what spring will bring us – last year expensive forest fires occurred in the tinder-dry undergrowth – and as for summer…should I arrange a holiday in Iceland?

One thing I’ll look forwards to is the Viareggio Carnival. The extraordinary huge mechanised papier Mache floats are world famous and their grand parade will take place on the following days this year:

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Something absolutely not to be missed and something to take one’s mind off the awful event which will involve the lowering of one national flag at the European parliament. For how long I wonder?

 

Home Sweet Home

Just a bit of catching up now that I’m able to get back to my laptop. In case my blog readers were wondering what happened to me regarding medical matters, the coronarography at San Luca hospital Lucca did not go well. There was too much calcium in the heart arteries and to force one’s way through with a stent would have been tantamount to pushing a passage through a bottle with a very thin glass wall.

I was returned to Castelnuovo hospital and told to prepare for a major operation. I could choose between various hospitals for this to be carried out but chose Careggi hospital in Florence as it has a very good reputation and because I have some relatives who live close by. The ambulance came for me on the 3rd of January and I was almost immediately wheeled into the operating theatre. It was a very cold evening and the auxiliary staff had to keep warm in an adjoining room when not on duty.

I clearly cannot remember anything about the operation except to be informed, when waking up, that it was completely successful and that I was now fitted with four aortic by-passes and two heart valves. I was wheeled into the intensive care section where I felt like an accessory to that classic film ‘Alien’ since various tubes appeared to emerge from my body, which I could barely move, I remember feeling very thirsty but I was not in any particular pain. I was not very hungry and, indeed, managed to eat just enough of the ‘cibo’ bianco’ (white food i.e. semolina, rice, fruit pulp, ricotta cheese) to keep going.

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The hospital staff in all this was absolutely brilliant, even coping with that first night when I felt like I was in some ghastly endless quite nightmarish scenario. Around the third day I received my first visitor, who had to be clad in protective clothing. It was my wife’s Florentine cousin and I was sure glad to meet her! A couple days later I was transported out of intensive care into a ward I recognised as the one I had first been wheeled into when I was ambulanced to Careggi. Here Sandra finally reached me and it was so wonderful to see her again. (I think she must have been more concerned than I was about the whole palaver). It was not long now that my journey back to Castelnuovo Hospital began. Here I stayed in a ward until the doctors decided that I was in a safe enough condition to be discharged.

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It’s now a week that I am back home but the tough work begins! Already I’ve had a week of physio with two gym sessions and two cycle ones in good company with three other similarly afflicted patients and supervised by two very efficient lady psychotherapists. Today, it being such a sweet, almost spring-like day, I’ve managed my second walk down to the little local church and also indulged my first session on my laptop keyboard.

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I praise the Supreme Being for being where I am and with who I am now. I do feel really lucky and promise I shall regard each new morning that greets me with ever more gratitude.

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Bagni di Lucca’s Gateway to the Death Camp

In this sombre week recalling the entry of the Red Army into the Auschwitz death camp 75 years ago I came across this article written by journalist Emanuela Ambrogi and have translated it as it also fits very aptly with the article I too have written about Bagni Di Lucca’s own concentration camp once housed in the now ruinous edifice opposite the Grande Albergo delle Terme.

Daniela Pieri, witness of those dark days of 1944, tells of the departure, destination Auschwitz, of the Jews detained in the temporary camp set up at the Grande Albergo delle Terme.
Hidden in the garden of her house, at eight years of age, by the hotel, Daniela saw the Jews pass by who had been imprisoned in the camp. Escorted by soldiers from the Republic of Salò and the SS they were loaded onto the trucks that brought them to Florence, and from here to Milan to then be transferred to Auschwitz and its gas chambers. (Visited by Francis Pettitt in 2001).

The memory of that January 23, 1944 is vivid in the mind of Daniela Pieri, who witnessed the deportation with her 11-year-old sister MariaTeresa: «I remember that those poor people, a hundred people, despite the cold and snow, walked in a resigned line and practically in silence, even if someone moaned a sad lullaby that I will never forget ».

Daniela recollects the time when the Jews, especially Slavic ethnic Jews, were gathered in Bagni in its Grande Albergo delle Terme, which became the property of the Italian Youth of the Littorio: «I remember that this huge complex had quickly been transformed from a place that welcomed noble and wealthy people who arrived in luxurious carriages into a dismal barracks which couldn’t even be mentioned. There was a friend of mine, younger than me, who said she heard the cries of children, but adults told us to keep silent saying that we had dreamed everything. There was so much fear, the weather was very cold and oppressive. Just by chance, my brother Piero, 14, did not end up among the deportees. To bring something to eat at home he helped the concentration camp cook in the kitchen, but once he was surprised by a German officer and only the intervention of the cook allowed him to return home. The same cook made him get off the truck where my brother had been put together with the Jews destined for martyrdom. My mother also found it really bad: one morning she was walking with my brother in Ponte a Serraglio when she was seized by a German soldier. In the square, a bit of fuss was also created because they started throwing objects from a house onto the street. The soldier tried to kick the door and then asked for a hand grenade. In the chaos my mother and brother slipped away. Given the dangerous situation from home, we moved to Pieve di Monti di Villa where we lived as displaced people in a hut ».

«Everything was missing – Daniela recalls – even if for the kids it was almost an adventure. Herbs in the fields were collected and then cooked to try to make the pork lard edible. I really didn’t like it, but I got away with eating berries, hazelnuts, figs, chestnuts and everything that could be found walking around the fields. Almost eighty years have passed; maybe I cannot remember some recent events, but in my mind I see those sad scenes as if it were now. And that sad lullaby will never abandon me ».

I myself have written various posts on this terrible chapter of Bagni Di Lucca’s past. Only a few years ago a plaque was finally placed on a building which, once clothed in opulence and glory (Puccini was a guest, for example, and wrote act two of his opera ‘the girl of the golden west’ there), now stands in its gothick horror as a symbol of man’s inhumanity to man.

May it never be rebuilt!

Three Unmissable Exhibitions

Three major exhibitions within easy reach of Lucca are ending soon and if you have any interest in the development of modern art they can on no account be missed.

The exhibitions are.
Amedeo Modigliani. Livorno Museo Della Citta’. Ending 16 February.


Futurism. Pisa Palazzo Blue. Ending 9 February.


Natalia Goncharova. Firenze. Palazzo Strozzi. Ending 12 January.

It’s a pity that I’m going to miss at least one of these but I have heard that they are all three stunning and if you can get to them do so!

Monte Rondinaio

One doesn’t have to go far from Bagni di Lucca to indulge in serious mountain trekking. To the west of the Serchio valley lie the rocky Apuans rightly called alps because of their geomorphology.

To the east lie the Appennines and although they are described as gentler and more forested than their Apuan counterparts this is not always the case.

Mount Rondinaio is among the highest in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines and, after Monte Giovo (1991 meters above sea level), the highest in the municipality of Pievepelago. Its height (1964 m) approaches the 2000 m threshold.

Like Monte Giovo and Alpe Tre Potenze Monte Rondinaio is crossed by 00, the path of the Apennine ridge, and acts as a border between the province of Modena and the province of Lucca. It is included in the Apennine Park of Frignano.

The best way to reach the top of Monte Rondinaio via path 00 from Bagni di Lucca is to go to the next valley up of Tereglio and travel to the top of the old grand ducal road to reach the passo del Giovo col.

The majestic range comprising the Rondinaio and Giovo peaks are quite at odds with the average view of Italy’s backbone, the appennines.

The ridge overlooks a mini lake district; Lake Baccio, Lake Turchino and Lake Torbido all lie in the shadow of these mighty mountains.

Monte Rondinaio, which is easily climbable without ropes is divided by the Monte Giovo massif by the North Pass, reachable only through a demanding path, and is divided by the Alpi Tre Potenze near Abetone by the Giovo Pass, also called Foce a Giovo, which with its almost 1700 meters above sea level is the highest Tuscan-Emilian Apennine pass that can be reached via an unpaved road. Towards Emilia, the ridge across the South Pass develops a last buttress called Rondinaio Lombardo, overlooking Lake Turchino.

From the top of the Rondinaio the panorama is superb: on one side the Garfagnana and the Apuan Alps, on the other the Valle delle Tagliole with its villages of Ca ‘di Gallo, Ronchi and Rotari.

It’s noticeable how our side of the appennines are a sort of scarp slope when compared to the gentler northern slopes dipping down towards the Po valley.

I look forwards to redoing the Rondinaio route: looking at my photos from a few years back truly wets my appetite.