Of Scouting and Bagni di Lucca

It was as a Wolf Cub that my first experience with Scouting began. Aged ten, I joined the ‘Pack’ attached to the local Methodist church. Inducted by Akela into first aid, backwoodsmanship, star-gazing, map-reading among other lore described in one of the most-read books in the world, Baden-Powell’s ‘Scouting for boys’, scouting was a welcome escape from primary school’s less adventurous curriculum.
Two occasions stand out: our ‘gangshow’ featuring the song ‘I’m the only man in the island’, and a trip to ride on the Dymchurch-Hythe miniature railway.

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In my secondary school I was given a choice of either joining the CCF (Combined Cadet Force) or the Boy Scouts. I naturally joined the latter and looked forwards to our summer camps where we pitched tents in idyllic locations: Barlavington and Trotton in England’s South Downs among them.

 

 

 

The Senior Scouts provided more challenging experiences including tough trekking through the wilds of the Isle of Skye’s Cuillin hills and more amenable hikes in Austria’s Salzkammergut.

 

 

 

 

It was, therefore, a pleasant way to reminisce when, at Bagni Di Lucca I came across the plaque celebrating Sir Francis Vane, the founder of Italy’s Scouting tradition in 1910, placed in front of the town’s Emergency medical centre, half-way between Villa and Ponte.

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I have briefly mentioned Sir Francis in two of my posts. One, with reference to the local Scout troop, is at:

Sightseeing at Bagni di Lucca Station

The other, about the first Italian to hold a pilot’s license, is at:

Bagni di Lucca Takes Flight!

But who was Sir Francis Vane? One thing is sure; Sir Francis was not your conventional British army colonel; his life was punctuated by incidents showing an unorthodox attitude and odds for the times he lived in.

Francis Patrick Fletcher Vane (Dublin, 1861 – London, 1934) was born to an Irish mother and a British father. He came from an aristocratic family with Masonic, progressive, Republican and socialist sympathies.

Sir Francis chose a military career and joined the Scots Guards. At the outbreak of the Boer War in 1899 he was sent to South Africa where he was harshly criticized for being too “pro-Boer”. Vane repeatedly criticised British war tactics, especially their use of the world’s first concentration camps for the Boers. Resigning from the army he became a South Africa correspondent for the Daily News and the Manchester Guardian.

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(Sir Francis Vane)

In 1906 Vane unsuccessfully stood as Liberal candidate. He also supported the suffragette and pacifist movements. At the outbreak of the First World War Vane resumed service with the rank of major, and was sent to Ireland.

In the 1916 Easter Rising, he manned the Portobello Barracks in Dublin with about 300 men. Vane fought to have Captain Bowen-Colthurst, who was under his command, indicted and convicted for criminal acts he ordered, in Vane’s absence, against Irish citizens. Vane’s commitment to the truth created annoyance and discontent from the army and he was forcibly discharged.

In 1910 Sir Francis Vane settled in Italy, where he collaborated with Remo Molinari of the Villa Gamba (still standing between Villa and Ponte) in the birth of the Italian Scout movement. Vane financed the Scouts largely from his own pocket supplying them with uniforms, equipment and recreational facilities and, indeed, causing his own bankruptcy.

 

 

 

 

(Early Scouting In Italy – the third one from Bagni Di Lucca)

In 1927 Sir Francis left Italy for good following the authoritarian turn of Mussolini’s fascist government and the subsequent suppression of the Italian Scouting Association and its replacement with the Balilla youth movement.

(Sandra’s dad when a Balilla youth)

Vane’s association with the founder of the world Scouting movement and its first Chief Scout is interesting. He met Robert Baden-Powell in 1909, enthusiastically espoused scouting and became a commissioner. Baden-Powell sought a figure like Vane’s to counter accusations of militarist organization directed at the movement. Soon, however, Vane clashed with the other leaders of the organization, and in November he was forced to resign. He then joined the British Boy Scouts (BBS), an association formed in May 1909 when a group from Battersea separated from Baden-Powell’s scouting group. Vane became its president. In February of the following year the BBS teamed up with another youth team, the Boys Life Brigade. These two formations gave birth to the National Peace Scouts.

I think I have said enough about Sir Francis Vane to convince you that he was truly a man ahead of his time. Do remember that when you’re next passing Bagni di Lucca’s emergency post.
***
During his lifetime Francis Vane wrote several books, some of which were highly controversial because of his distinctly unorthodox views. I shall enquire at our local library to see if they have copies of these:

 

 

 

The War and One Year After (1903): Critical publication on the means used by Britain in the war with the Boers;
Pax Britannica (1904-05): Follow-up to the previous pamphlet;
Walks and Peoples in Tuscany (1908);
The Other Illusions (1914)
Principles of Military Art (1916-17);
The Easter Rising (1917) book about the Irish uprising, heavily censored;
Agin the governments: Memories and Adventures of Sir Francis Fletcher Vane (1930) autobiographical.

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(Bagni di Lucca’s Emergency and Ambulance centre where Sir Francis Vane’s commemorative plaque may be found).

Of Comenius and Europe

My professional introduction as a lecturer to Italy, by means of work placements and seminars, took place through a EU agency, Comenius. Named after the renowned seventeenth century Czech pedagogue and philosopher, Comenius provides funds for teacher and student development within a EU framework. Among my Comenius experiences was a teacher exchange with a secondary school, the ‘Martin Luther King’ in Genoa. Looking through my report for this I realise how enjoyable and uplifting this time was for me. From Lavagna, a delightful resort facing the Tyrrenian sea, I would take the train daily to the school where I taught in the morning. In the afternoon, my return journey would allow a stop at one of the many beaches and coves on the Ligurian coast: Rapallo, Portofino, Nervi among many. It certainly made a difference from my more mundane journeys on London’s South Circular road…

Another EU funded venture was my time in Salzburg, again in an exchange with a secondary school. Summery Mediterranean waters were discarded for alpine winter snows, the characteristic Christkindlmarkt and gluhwein.

Again, reading through my Austrian report I see how enriching the experience was and how important it was in giving me further insights into the incredible variety that is Europe.

 

 

 

The EU funds also enabled me, at my college in London, to set up student interchanges and internet chat rooms between our students and their peers in continental European countries.

Of one seminar held in Athens I have particularly vivid memories: the Parthenon, revisited after many years, the very productive conferences and a wonderful evening in a bar in Piraeus listening to Rembetiko, the Greek equivalent of ‘the blues’.

 

 

 

What, however, is less admirable in retrospect is that the EU funds available for all these activities were not immediately apparent or publicized by our educational authority; it needed a particular member of the teaching staff, with whom I collaborated closely, to ‘discover’ these EU opportunities. Furthermore, the college gave no remission of time for the considerable paper-work involved in laying the foundations of a successful project to teaching staff.

The lecturer who had me interested in Comenius and related EU projects was truly inspirational. As she stated ‘the EU money’s there so why not use it?’ Regrettably, her attitude was an exception; other lecturers were less enthusiast about being involved and some were really not interested at all: ‘why should I spend time in this European nonsense?’ was what one person uttered.

Now all this happened years before the infamous 2016 referendum, so ill-conceived, so divisive and so, seemingly still without any satisfactory resolution. However, my experience does represent one important point: that, before the referendum highlighted it, the average inhabitant of the British Isles was not particularly interested in things dealing with the EU and, indeed, found large parts of the institution risible (as one can judge from episodes of that immortal sitcom ‘Yes Minister – and Prime Minister’, ‘Eurotrash’ and Terry Wogan’s memorable jibes when presenting the Eurovision Song Contest).

From lack of interest (apart from the extreme ERG section of the Tory party) before Cameron’s referendum to the positively hostile atmosphere of the leavers today towards the Nobel peace prize-awarded European Union is a sad path which is littered with gross misunderstandings, antiquated world views, utter provincialism, the most appalling descent into sub-parliamentary barbarism, the weird ideology that believes it is better to die ‘euro-free’ rather than strive to improve life quality and enhance chances for the new generations within Europe, the complete disregard of the lessons only history can teach us regarding the fall of empires and the blind following of emotive slogans…..

I have said before: delivering on ‘the will of the people’ is dangerously redolent of the phrase ‘the triumph of the will’, the title of the pioneering Riefenstahl film documenting and glorifying the rise of the Third Reich. The foundations for the present division of the UK into yet another ‘two nations’, more unbearable than those divisions between rich and poor, Tory and Labour, Left and Right, Irish and English, graduates and non-graduates were already present in popular attitudes for many years.

This horrendous division can only be described as a monstrous nuisance; like all nuisances the only way out is to get rid of it once and for all: may brexit be thrown into the cesspool of history for ever!

Elusive Elegance

Cavemen enfolded by their sabre-toothed tiger furs, imperial Romans draped in their togas and, to the present, that most ancient of clothing, the sari of the Indian sub-continent, worn since sanskritical times: these images of primal memories are evoked in the exhibition “Every garment tells a story” created by Kerry Bell at Barga’s Oxo gallery and viewable until September 30th.

It was the folds in the dresses that principally engaged my attention: those sinuous contours, the interweaving lines, highlighted by the subtle use of lighting, which continued their journey, projecting multi-layered silhouettes onto the gallery walls and forming a profound dialogue between the object and the aura it created.

Kerry has had long experience in fashion design and the industry it has formed. From those draperies differently textured dresses and costumes have been cut and tailored; strict forms have evolved which mark each age as the harbinger of a particular way of interpreting that most public and, at the same time, most intimate of artistic expressions: the manner in which we elaborate the cover to our original nakedness and make statements about how we see and feel ourselves or want the world to see and feel us.

Kerry has described the way she wishes her exhibition to be self-revelatory: each garment can generate feelings and emotions which may naturally be quite different for diverse people. Does the clearly unfinished appearance of this dress point to some tragic incident? Are the bleached colours of that gown related to the wearer’s character? And what social enigmae are prefigured in the classical folds of this blouse?

There is an arcane visual poetry in these items which seduces one with distant associations of place and time, whether they be Cunard line elite of the thirties or fin de siecle salon hostesses or street sleepers of every age (but especially ours.)
Food for thought or drink for the soul? Make up your own minds and go to be captivated by this alluring show.

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It’s Pinocchio Time Again..

We were glad we attended Bagni Di Lucca’s Pinocchio celebrations on Saturday for this event, organized by the master mind of Marco Nicoli, had to be cancelled on Sunday because of the uncertain weather. This morning the first rain we’ve had for weeks continues unrelentingly.

Anyway, Saturday was full of enjoyable happenings.

 

The intensely colourful paintings by Eva Alessandra Lombardi in the town hall foyer vividly illustrated key episodes in the world-famous children’s book authored by Carlo Collodi. Buildings from the town featured in the exhibition, the casino and Villa Ada among them. This was most appropriate since the land of games, toys and pleasure, ‘il paese dei balocchi’, as described by Collodi, was inspired by the former reputation of Bagni Di Lucca as the playground of Europe, with its spa and casino.

 

The stalls sold a wide variety of handicrafts:

 

There was an abundance of activities to delight children at heart of all ages.

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I was happy to see the return of the colombina, the traditional Bagni bun in the shape of a stylised dove, baked by the Tana del Ghiro restaurant.

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The puppetter was especially good and held his audience in thrall with an Italian transformation of the English Punch and Judy show with the crocodile transformed into that equally ferocious giant shark.

 

It was indeed a pity that this highly attractive festival could not continue into the following day as originally planned. However, Autumn is now truly with us: temperatures have dropped, the mountains are shrouded in mists and further thunderstorms are on their way. After all, September 23rd is the day of the solstice when days will start becoming shorter than nights…

First-Rate Second-Hand

The second-hand market, or ‘mercatino dell’usato’, is thriving in the Lucchesia with several outlets in the area.

Two of my favourites are ‘Mercatopoli’ in the Arancio area of Lucca. Their website is quite well organised with a list of items on sale and can be found at:

https://lucca.mercatopoli.it

The other is the ‘mercatino dell’usato’ which can be found near the straight stretch of road leading into the city from Bagni Di Lucca. Its web site is not so brilliant and is at:

Home

It’s best just to turn up and see what wonders are found in this veritable Aladdin’s cave. Here is a random selection of things we chanced upon yesterday stored in the cavernous holds of this ex-factory:

 

 

As can be seen there’s everything to be found here and most of it is adequately organized (apart from the clothes section which is a dismal jumble – although my wife managed to find a couple of attractive items.)

The mercatino (little market) is really a mercatone (big market) and one could happily spend some hours bargain-hunting in it. I was particularly drawn to the outside salvage section with garden furniture and various house fittings.

Italy does not have  a panoply of charity shops such as can be found in the UK but it more than makes up for this with its mercatini. These bric-a-brac depositories can also be useful if one is moving, down-sizing or just getting rid of superfluous clutter: one takes one’s stuff to the mercatino and agrees a selling price. The shop adds its own commission and the longer the item remains unsold the lower its price becomes.

I try to de-clutter from time to time and the mercatini certainly do help!

A New Start for my PC

Over six years ago I wrote this post about Fornoli’s computer shop run by Maurizio Canelli.

Another new gadget to go wrong?

I stated that I was very happy with the service provided by the shop.
I have continued to remain very satisfied since that time. After all, if one is a blogger a reliable computer is a must!

In the past months my computer (an Asus laptop) became painfully slow and I thought I might have to invest in a new machine with all the trouble of having to transfer settings and data from the old to the new. Maurizio, however, suggested otherwise. He proposed the following improvements to my existing laptop:

1. Updating from Windows Seven operating system to Windows Ten, especially as this September Windows Seven would no longer be supported and, therefore, no longer safe from virus attacks.
2. Replacing the existing internal disc drive with a solid state one which would make operations so much faster.
3. Having the old disc drive placed in a separate box and used as an external one, useful for backup purposes.
4. General maintenance and cleaning of the keyboard to ensure smooth response.

I took my laptop to Maurizio ‘s shop PC start last week and collected it a couple of days later.

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The difference in response was startling; it seemed as if I had bought the latest machine: every operation took a fraction of the time it used to take. Moreover, Windows Ten was a very amenable OS – quite unlike some of the ghastly systems Microsoft has produced in the past. The price was astonishingly reasonable: certainly a lot less than it would have cost me to purchase a new laptop.

So I have no hesitation in recommending Maurizio Canelli’s expertise to anyone who has a computer in poor health and needs some advice on what cure to effect. Whether it’s upgrading, as in my case, or buying a new machine, Maurizio is the man.

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Not forgetting, of course, that the shop also supplies all those essential items like printer cartridges, paper, speakers, routers, etc. which are part and parcel of running a computer.

Maurizio has a web site at:

http://www.pc-start.it

and a Facebook page at:

https://www.facebook.com/canelli.pcstart/

with full details about opening times, facilities available and special offers and discounts including the Mammalucco Fornoli traders discount card and the cashback world scheme.

Main details:

PC START

V. Papa Giovanni Xxiii – Fornoli, 27
55021 Bagni Di Lucca
Tel.: (+39) 058386484)

(Meanwhile, last Friday at Marina di Pisa).

 

Liberating Lucca

September is the most important month for Lucca; the ‘Luminara’, the great religious procession of the Holy Face commemorates the crucifix, traditionally supposed to have been carved by Nicodemus and bearing Christ’s features. This year the candles adorning the city’s streets were substituted by LEDs to some disappointment. However, attendance and the spectacular fireworks finale were as good as ever. To know more about the Luminara do read my post at:

Lucca by Candle-Light

The other important event commemorated in September is the liberation of the city of Lucca from fascist-nazi oppression. On the fifth of the month Allied forces entered inside the walls of Lucca and, last Sunday, we were privileged to meet one of the soldiers who was a member of the army freeing the city seventy five years ago.

Ivan J. Houston has written about his experiences in “Black Warriors: The Buffalo Soldiers of WWII,” the Second World War’s first Black combat team under the 92nd Infantry. He says of the Lucchesi:

“These were white Italians and we were black Americans, but they made us feel like heroes. We were never treated like that in our own country where we were still second class citizens.”

Ivan was amazed to find that the holiest image of Lucca, the Holy Face, has a black complexion.

We met up at San Giusto di Brancoli and were taken round the fortifications of the German defensive Gothic line. We visited bunkers, tunnels and look-out posts around Monte Pittone.
Ivan Houston’s division arrived in the area of ​​Morianese and Brancoleria on 15 September 1944. The Allies found strong resistance from the Nazis at the entrance to the Serchio valley in the bottleneck created between Monte Pittone and Piaggione, Monte Castellaccio in Aquilea and the Monte dell’Elto in Domazzano, in front of defenses from which the enemy could cross-fire and control all forces entering the valley. These clashes continued until September 19, 1944 when the Allies managed to break through the enemy lines and conquer these strategically placed hills, helping to free Bagni di Lucca.

 

We returned to San Giusto just in time to welcome Ivan Houston.

 

We joined the procession to the church where a most moving ceremony took place honouring Houston and remembering all who died in the campaign to free this part of Italy. We were so glad to meet the youthful 95 year old veteran who has since become an icon for afro-americans wishings to progress in the world of business.

 

The buffet lunch was up to the high standard expected in Italy.

 

We visited the interesting collection of uniforms, armaments, military equipment and photographs housed in the newly opened museum.

 

The day was truly memorable and we are thankful we were able to be present in the company of a soldier who fought that we might be free today.

Spectacular Environmental Art at Villa Celle

Villa Celle and its grounds contain a gloriously varied display of environmental art – art which is inspired by its surroundings whether by acceptance or rejection. Of course, it might be stated that all art is environmental: those Madonne lining the walls of a gallery once formed the centre of an altarpiece and many statues, in particular, were designed for a grand landscape scene.

For me environmental art also has a ritual dimension; as Stonehenge is both a ritual centre and a supreme sculptural statement, so the Angel of the North transforms itself from an artistic creation into a ritual declaration.

Villa Celle dates back to the 15th century and is located in Santomato, near Pistoia.  Starting in the sixties Giuliano Gori, a dynamic entrepreneur from Prato, began to build a rich collection of contemporary art.

Dissatisfied with the traditional way in which works of art are exhibited, and inspired by the museum of Catalan Art in Barcelona and the Venice Biennale, Gori thought about the possibility of creating works of environmental art in the vast area of the villa’s romantic park and transformed it into a laboratory open to artists wishing to create works influenced by nature’s spaces and rhythms.

Gori’s Villa Celle has been described as one of the most evocative collections of contemporary art in Italy and I concur with that statement. The collection is private and is  open only by invitation: (see web site at http://www.goricoll.it ). We were privileged to visit it the other day in the company of friends.

The curator led us on a wonderful voyage of discovery through the varied landscapes of the villa’s grounds. The trek, lasting close to four hours, took us through bosky woods, olive groves, wide lawns, dark ravines and past shimmering stretches of water. Round each corner artistic creations sprang up to delight, amaze, bemuse or puzzle us.

Here are some of the installations we saw.

Magdalena’s Abakanowicz’s ‘Katarsis’ (1985):

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Daniel Buren’s ‘La cabane éclatée aux 4 salles’ (2005):

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Fabrizio Corneli’s ‘Great Extruded’ (1987):

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Fusto Melotti’s ‘Theme and variations II’ (1981):

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Hidetoshi Nagasawa’s ‘Hyperuranium’ (1996):

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Marco Tirelli’s ‘Excelle’ (2009):

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Anne and Patrick Poirier’s ‘La Morte de Efialte'(1982):

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Robert Morris’ ‘Labyrinth’ (1982):

 

 

Robert Morris’ ‘The fallen and the saved’ (2000):

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Here are further views of the panoply of environmental art and features in Gori’s estate:

 

 

 

The Villa Celle’s collection is certainly enjoyable and it makes a pleasant change to combine a country walk with an art gallery at the same time!

 

 

 

What’s On in and around Bagni di Lucca for the Remainer of September

 

The Lucchesia’s late summer is beautifully warm during the day and refreshingly cool in the early mornings and evenings. It’s truly a great time to enjoy oneself before autumn warns of the coming winter season.

There are many events to look forwards to for the remainder of September in the Bagni di Lucca area. Here are some of the main ones:

13th to 15th Sept.

Bagni di Lucca library. International congress on well-being and places and literature connected with health.

15th Sept.

Brancoli. Gothic Line. Arrival of WWII veteran and visit to the fortifications.

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21st and 22nd Sept

Paese dei balocchi. Toyland returns to town at Villa.

23rd Sept to 3rd Oct.

Circolo dei Forestieri. Exhibition commemorating 75th anniversary of liberation from the Nazis in Bagni di Lucca.

27th Sept

Piazza Jean Varraud. Vintage car show starting at 12.30 pm-

29th September

Second-hand, craft and bric-a-brac market at Villa.

Montefegatesi. Grape festival.

 

 

 

 

Queen Victoria’s Secret

Queen Victoria first visited Italy as a ten-year old. Over fifty years passed before she returned to a beloved country. In the meanwhile Victoria’d been crowned Queen and Empress of India, been married to and widowed by Albert and spent several of her holidays in that part of Germany where her Prince consort was born.

The Queen was guest of John Temple-Leader when she visited Florence and where she was joyously welcomed by the locals. Temple-Leader had a vast estate around Maiano which included the castle of Vincigliata which he rebuilt, and the quarries where stone used in the great renaissance sculptures was mined. Victoria visited a lake formed by the stone excavations and was so enchanted that she decided to sketch it, an event featured in the Illustrated London News of the time.

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The fattoria (farm) di Maiano exists to this day and is open to the public. Its picturesque walks take in belvederes, garden pavilions, romantic woodlands, silvery olive groves, the quarry lake and animal (including ostrich) paddocks. The fattoria is also a delightful venue for agriturismo stays, has a farm shop and is often used as a wedding venue.

It was truly lovely to appreciate this part of Florence ‘s hinterland bathed in the rosy hues of a late summer sunset.