Serenading in Lucca

It was just as well that I opted to hear the first of the two performances given of this year’s Barga Opera Festival main item, Vivaldi’s  serenata “Mio cor, povero cor,” in Lucca’s San Francesco church rather than Barga’s Fosso.  Not only was the 6 p.m. starting time more congenial to me, not only were the acoustics more hospitable to the music but Sardelli, who has done so much to bring Vivaldi’s operas back to life, was suddenly taken ill and could not conduct the Barga performance. (I gather he is now well on the way to recovery).

I can do no better than to translate Sardelli’s note to the serenata into English as it is full of useful insights.

“Among the seven surviving serenate by Vivaldi, RV 690 is undoubtedly the most singular, the least performed, the most interesting and the most problematic from the historical point of view. But what was a serenata in Vivaldi’s time? It was music to be performed outdoors in the evening. Serenate were songs or madrigals sung by the suitor under the beloved’s window and were usually accompanied by plucked instruments.  In aristocratic courts, however, the serenata became a type of mini-opera. It was a pastoral, Arcadian or heroic drama performed under moonlight in the gardens of noble residences on the occasion of weddings, birthdays and name days. A serenata was thus a theatrical experience outside of the theatre, one that was smaller in size, with fewer characters and usually divided into two parts, instead of the normal three acts of an opera.

Vivaldi’s surviving serenate testify to the splendour and richness of that age’s dramatic tastes. RV 690, however, gives musicologists a hard time. We do not know who the client was or the date and place of its premiere. A horrible event underlines the innocent pastoral intertwining of the amorous skirmishes of the two nymphs Eurilla and Nice and the shepherd Alcindo: the persecution of the Jansenist abbot Jean de Tourrei, exiled from France and at first welcomed in Rome and Florence, only to be betrayed by his guests, imprisoned in Castel Sant’Angelo and subjected to the tortures of the Inquisition from 1711 to 17I5. The serenata, usually a happy and carefree genre, in fact ends with the final demand of the two nymphs for an inquisition (aria “Punish, tear, kill”) for poor Alcindo, alias de TourreiI. It’s still unclear who the libretto’s author was. Perhaps the serenata was performed in Rome in the entourage of Cardinal Pietro Ottoboni, patron of Vivaldi (as well as of Corelli, Scarlatti, Handel and many others). But since documents date the serenata between 1716 and 1719 (when Vivaldi had not yet arrived in Rome), the possibility remains that the opera was written and performed in Mantua or Venice. Apart from these puzzles, Vivaldi’s music stays clear, fresh and full of ideas and instrumental colours. The arias with oboes, bassoon obbligato and hunting horns witness the great richness of ideas in the composer’s maturity. This little known and performed beautiful and unique serenata does not even have a title! The manuscript opens with the first aria, beginning “Mio cor, povero cor,” which is perhaps the best name we can give to Vivaldi’s serenata.”

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I was indeed astonished by the variety of arias in the serenata. Everything from sweet triple-time pastorals to energetic calls-to-action with magnificently rasping horn playing to an embedded violin concerto was performed. It’s as if Vivaldi wanted to show off as many of the musical qualities that he was able to create. It’s sad that this fine Venetian composer, who influenced J. S. Bach so much in his concerti, should have died destitute in a Viennese slum. But then, as a friend who was also present at the concert explained to me, when one’s patron (in this case Emperor Charles VI) suddenly dies then one’s remuneration usually dies with him. 

The serenata is still very much with us. By Mozart’s time it had become a largely instrumental composition and was called a serenade. In the nineteenth century great composers like Dvorak, Tchaikovsky, Brahms and Elgar wrote delightful serenades and the term, used to describe music of a more laid-back nature, survives to the present times.

All players and singers performed quite magnificently. (It was the leader of the ‘Modo Antiquo’ orchestra, Frederico Guglielmo, who had to take over from the indisposed Sardelli for the work’s second presentation.) I especially liked the expressive way soprano Sonia Tedla sang her part as the nymph Eurilla.

It seems astonishing that less than forty years ago Italian H(istorically)  I(nformed) P(erformances) on authentic instruments were virtually non-existent. (There were fine Vivaldi performances by such groups as ‘I Musici’ but they didn’t use cat-gut strings for example). The shadow of the’ melodramma’ was still strong and I remember baroque arie being sung like nineteenth century bel canto. Today, of course, Italians have fully espoused H.I.Ps. After all, so much of the finest baroque music is Italian! That’s why it is so important to support institutions like Barga Opera in this especial year of need when so many cultural events appear tottering on the brink of annihilation. Let’s hope that before not too long we shall again see a fully staged Vivaldian opera gracing Barga’s Teatro dei Differenti.

Of Local Witches and Demons

The Mammalucco association under the aegis of Marco Nicoli has presented many events which have enlivened life in Fornoli to a very considerable extent. It is sad, therefore, that thanks to this pandemic so many of these events have had to be cancelled, in particular February’s colourful carnival.

It was thus marvellous that theatre returned to Fornoli the other night in the form of a dramatic monologue, ‘streghe’ (witches) given by Michela Innocenti accompanied by her daughter on Celtic harp and both members of the ‘Circo e la Luna’ company.

Michela’s monologue was centred on women who cure ailments through the use of natural herbs and by ‘signing’ (i.e. a sort of laying on of hands). Unfortunately, many of them have been (and some still continue to be) accused of witchcraft and some have even found their lives terminated at the stake because of this. Michela’s performance, which took place (ironically, in view of its supposedly anti-religious subject matter) in front of Fornoli’s parish church in the area known as ‘sagrato’ (or holy place), was very effective and her daughter’s harp accompaniment most atmospheric.

I worked with Michela Innocenti four years ago in an amateur production of Dickens’ ‘A Christmas Carol’ at Bagni di Lucca’s Teatro Academico where I played the part of Scrooge. It was a truly great experience I must admit but a little difficult to learn my lines in Italian!

Michela’s monologue was based on her own interpretation of local historical facts. Underlining her script, nevertheless, are several well-documented episodes of witchcraft in our province. In particular I noted the following instance:

In the summer of 1571 there was a trial in Lucca which caused a great sensation and much fear. The defendants, Pulisena di Giovan Maria da San Macario and Margherita di Tardino Pardini da San Rocco, had both been jailed on charges of being witches and associating with the devil. It all began when a certain Pollonia ran to the town council and told them that the two alleged witches, after having cast a spell on her by order of Bartolomea her sister, had deceived Pollonia that they could free her from their tormenting, first by pretending to remove the curse, second by treating, with mysterious ointments, certain aches that had remained with her.

Imprisoned and summoned before the civil authorities, the defendants had initially denied any charges while admitting to having, in the past, but only rarely, made medicine to cure the sick and treat children suffering from tertiary fever. These confessions led the judges to further investigate and to call several witnesses. Most of these admitted resorting to the help of the two accused who were well-known in the city for their skill in curing all sorts of illnesses and also making love potions to arouse passion in indifferent hearts. The first ones who had experienced these particular gifts were Pulisena’s old lovers, who, enchanted by her spells, admitted they had been subjugated to her caresses.

Since the defendants denied all accusations, the town council decided to ‘show them the instruments’ and subject them to torture. Pulisena began to make a few confessions which certainly could not worsen her situation. She spoke of remedies made with herbs and certain prayers to be recited at the bedside of the sick. Margherita, on the other hand, who had been hung up with her arms tied above her head and was being hard-pressed by the Inquisition’s questions, began to confess and what she said inexorably sealed her and her friend’s fate: Margherita admitted she was a witch and that she had seduced children to obtain from their tender flesh the fat needed to make an ointment which she spread over her body and enable her to fly to the witches’ meeting-place. Margherita was thirty when she first joined the witches. It was not her own choice but she was persuaded to do so by her dying grandmother who was also a witch. Tortured first with the rack, then with fire and finally subjected to the “vegghia” Pulisena ended up by giving blood-curdling screams of agony under duress.

The ‘vegghia’ or ‘veglia’ is also called the ‘Cradle of Judas’ and is another torture instrument of the Holy Inquisition. Here one was suspended above a sharp-tipped object. By means of a system of ropes the victim was shifted around so that the object’s tip penetrated their genitals or anus. In reality the real torture consisted in the permanent wakefulness of the condemned who was not allowed to relax or sleep given the underlying penetration. The battered person, surrounded from the abdomen by a metal ring and connected to the ceiling and walls by the ropes, was dropped, more or less violently, on that pointed wedge held by a tripod. An example of this instrument may be seen in most museums dedicated to torture like the one at Lucca.

Margherita admitted that every time she heard the witches’ call she would ride on a magic goat and fly to the Prato Fiorito (the mountain behind our village) where she had sex with devils and dance until dawn. All agreed she was a witch: she had bewitched her husband, killed children, stolen the Church’s Blessed Hosts and even denied her own baptism. Margherita’s devil, the one she had sex with on the nights of the witches’ Sabbaths, was called Calcabrino. He was a huge and passionate demon, very handsome even though his feet were like cloven goat’s hooves.

There was enough evidence for exemplary punishment. Declared witches the two poor women, exhausted by constant torture, were condemned to die at the stake in Lucca’s main square. Luckily, Pulisena and Margherita are the only two Lucchesi witches to be condemned to the flames of the stake but they did contribute to the myth of Lucca as a supernatural city full of mysteries.

At least we should be grateful that only two witches were burnt in Lucca! This compares favourably with the thousands burned in the great witch trials of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries in other European cities. Of the estimated 100,000 witches burnt in Europe the majority were in Germany and Switzerland. In Italy the worst place for witch-burning is the town of Triora, Liguria where between 1587 and 1589 at least ten unfortunate women were consigned to the flames.

Incidentally, the reason for condemning the poor wretches at Triora was that they were found guilty of spreading an epidemic through magical charms and witchcraft spells. I cannot help thinking that there has to be some similarity between what happened then and what is happening now throughout the world. The conspiracy-theorists in the pandemic believe that the current Covid-19 pandemic is being spread by a sinister internationalist cabal and point to evil malefactors. Part of this arcane plot is the use of vaccines which have not yet stood the test of time. So far no-one has today been burnt at the stake or even punished for spreading this contemporary plague. However, there are several instances of people accused of spreading the infection by coughing, spitting, not wearing masks etc. and, no doubt, in some of the more primitive parts of the Earth there may be accusations of witchcraft.

It was, therefore, truly interesting and very relevant to attend Michela’s performance. I just hope that dark shades from the past won’t re-emerge in our so-called ‘modern’ age and that primaeval instincts won’t come out from the murky depths of the subconscious to create a new far-reaching witch-hunt today. If this seems far-fetched or wild imaginings to some I would like to remind my readers of two recent instances in the Lucchesia. First, one of our local policemen, now transferred to another town, was specially sent to Chicago for training in uncovering satanic cults. He informed me than there are several such cults operating in our area although so far no arrests have been made for any serious crimes. Second, a churchman from our comune, a person very much appreciated by locals for his initiative in getting the parish together for music and sports events especially among younger people, was glad to be transferred to another parish as he found the proliferation of satanic cults in our area rather disturbing.

If anybody still doubts what I have written then I’ll just point out to them Borgo a Mozzano’s Devil’s Bridge and that town’s Halloween festival. And this is coming from someone who too has been a participant in witchcraft rituals including walking on fire as you may read at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/06/19/a-walk-on-the-wild-side/

PS perhaps a less scary event will happen at the end of this month with Fornoli’s evening market and vintage car show, again organised by ‘Il Mammalucco’:

A Protecting Veil?

The other morning I observed Archie, our youngest feline family member, now approaching his second birthday (which brings him to the equivalent of twenty-four human years in age..a young man in fact!) having fun with something. It turned out to be a mouse, that ‘wee, sleekit, cowrin, tim’rous beastie’ beloved of Robbie Burns. One part of me said ‘let him have his bit of fun – it’s his instinct anyway’; the other part felt sorry for the teeny rodent and so, after a few minutes and a few extra paw strikes from Archie, I took the petrified thing, which was playing dead, into my palm and transported it to a safer part of the garden and let it scurry off into the adjoining wood’s undergrowth.

I just wonder what happened to the poor creature; at least it had a couple more hours added to its brief existence.

I thought about how we too are placed in that tiny field mouse’s situation for a larger part of our lives than we care to remember. We too are being watched by predators and our greatest spots of vulnerability are carefully noted. Are they the body-snatchers ready with their pods to clone us and produce our equivalents in everything except for the individuality of our personalities?

Are they the tripods striding on their ungainly telescopic legs across the rural landscape to a little village where inhabitants are celebrating with merry-making the capping of their sons and daughters who have reached their sixteenth birthday so that they might become less rebellious and have all traces of original creative thought extinguished in them?


Are they the alien beings who regularly hover above Garfagnana’s Monte Palodina in their flying saucers eager to abduct incredulous humans living in the surrounding villages? Newspapers in our part of northern Tuscany have indeed reported a significant increase in UFO sightings around that mountain whose extra-terrestrial qualities I have already described in a post here https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/25/ufos-return-to-garfagnana/

At the same time, these sightings have been linked to the current pandemic situation which, in Italy, shows little sign of abating and threatens to turn the whole peninsula into a red zone worthy of a Martian invasion.

We are being watched. That is for sure. Whether it is the epidemiologist investigating probably the biggest news story since the dropping of the atomic bomb on Hiroshima or whether it is the conspirer ready to proclaim it is an internationalist plot to reduce the world population and to place humanity under big brother mind-control the fact is we are all being watched by unknown beings. They are not like the great cat paws toying with the lives of small mice. They are quite the opposite: invisible viruses ready to launch themselves on unsuspecting giants…us!

Many can, of course, deny this scenario. Flicking through often irresponsible social media I noted a video posted by a right-wing Italian staying in the UK. It showed the Brighton seafront filled with crowds enjoying the sunset and, as he was proud to point out, with only a handful wearing protective masks.

Of course, there are still heated debates about wearing masks or ‘mascherine’ as they are called here in Italy. But then there are debates about the wearing of compulsory seat-belts and bicycle helmets. Health and safety increasingly control our lives even in the more relaxed milieu of that corner of Tuscany where arguments are now raging about the impending imposition of safety barriers on Lucca’s walls. If somebody’s kid falls off the city’s imposing but unprotected sixteenth-century ramparts then whose fault is it? The city council or the unvigilant parent?

One thing is certain: there will be no protecting hand to save us from the perils of the world’s present nightmare as the mouse was saved from Archie’s razor talons and sharp teeth by my intervention. As to the vaccine let it remain our personal decision.

It is clearly up to us to decide where and what we are and if we cannot decide then I truly believe in the protecting veil of the Mother of God as so wonderfully evoked in John Tavener’s inspirational piece of music.

Infernal Snows

Yesterday it was water, water everywhere and nor any drop to drink! But we were not stuck in the Sargasso Sea surrounded by slimy things that crawled with legs upon the slimy sea. With all the rain and sleet we’ve been having Longoio suffered a burst aqueduct pipe and so we had to fill up our bottles from the local spring. Fortunately Gaia, our water company, proved very efficient and after some drilling the burst pipe was located and duly mended.

In the meanwhile I decided on a morning ride with just a sprinkling of rain to have a look at the snows which have fallen over our local mountains-

The otherwise very green Prato Fiorito, the haunt of Sabbath witches and the graveyard, through its landslides, of at least one village in the past, looked very snowy indeed.

My replacement scooter, this time a Honda after the old Aprilia Scarabeo had finally given up the ghost, managed the watery roads rather well.

The Refubbri river, normally so placid, had turned into a raging torrent with some spectacular waterfalls appearing.

There was a slight hint of sunshine this morning but who wants to go out in this weather now? I’m told that Abetone, our nearest ski centre just under an hour’s drive (or scoot…) away, has received another half metre of snow but regrettably ski centres throughout Italy are still closed as a result of the health emergency.

Which brings me to a very confusing linguistic point. The Italian government is now talking about its ‘recovery plan’, after the pandemic has finally gone away. It uses the term written in English. However, there is a similar sounding word in Italian, ‘ricoveri’, which translates as ‘hospital admissions’ – quite the opposite of the English ‘recovery’. So I never quite know when the news is good i.e. the ‘recovery plan’ is receiving increased funding, or whether the news is bad the ‘ricoveri’ are ever increasing!

I just wish Italians would be prouder of their beautiful language instead of importing foreign terms all the time into news items in the mistaken opinion that these have somehow more ‘authority’. Yes, they use that English word as well instead of saying ‘autorità’. This year it’s the seven hundredth anniversary of Dante Alighieri’s death. The ‘sommo poeta’, who laid down the guiding principles of the Italian language, would surely not have approved. Of course, there’s nothing very funny about the ‘Divine Comedy’ especially when Dante finds himself in the Inferno (now I am using Italian when I should say ‘hell’…but the brits have appropriated themselves in revenge of an Italian word to better describe certain ghastly conditions – like the one the world finds itself in right now). The word ‘comedy’ is used here to mean that Dante is writing in the low ‘vulgar’ or ‘comic’’ language of Italian instead of the high ‘tragic’ classical language of Latin.

The term ‘comedy’ can also mean that this wonderful poem, perhaps the greatest literary work produced in western civilization according to T. S. Eliot (who placed its themes of universality even above those of Shakespeare’s plays) does not, indeed, have a tragic end but rather culminates in that last line expressing the transcendental joy of the love that moves the sun and the other stars:

‘l’amor che move il sole e l’altre stelle.’

It is this line, and other quotes from Dante, which Lucca has sensibly turned into festive decorations for its city as these photos taken by a friend demonstrate.

Now that leads me to consider that my mum had a Dante exquisitely illustrated by John Flaxman, the neo-classical artist.  I wonder where that volume is now.

(Dante meets Beatrice)

 

 

Lucca’s Living Music

Music for me and for so many others is not just the Shakespearean food of love but the food of life itself. Music richly accompanies our memories, colours our passions, soothes our sorrows and heightens our joys. How sad it is then that the on-going pandemic is cruellest with this art. Writers and readers may pursue their activities in solitude and artists paint their canvases without spectators. Music, however, pines for shared interaction more than most arts: indeed, the playing of members in a symphony orchestra is one of the sublimest social collaborations known to mankind.

It was, therefore, with the greatest penchant that I attended a concert given as part of the ‘Settecento Musicale a Lucca’ (‘Eighteenth century at Lucca’) festival in the city’s superbly huge barn of a church, San Francesco, whose re-opening to the public after a three-year restoration we witnessed in 2014.

(See my posts on that momentous event at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/07/07/magisterial-monastery/

And at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/new-life-to-an-old-quarter/)

This was the programme:

Music yearns for an audience, even if socially-distanced on appropriately marked seats music, even if husband and wife are asked, as we were, to be seated with a couple of vacant places between us!

Music also requires just one player to entrance that audience whether it be on a piano or, in the case of the late afternoon’s opening item, a solo violin. Da Won Chang’s interpretation of J. S. Bach’s violin partita in D minor was beautifully played and its last movement, the famous chaconne, utterly riveting.

It also demonstrated how good so many musicians are coming out of specialist courses at Lucca’s ‘Boccherini’ conservatoire.

The ‘Animando’ chamber orchestra, conducted by Stefano Teani, followed with a group of four pieces by Mozart, Tartini, Vivaldi and Durante which displayed the astonishing variety of eighteenth century Italian music. The Neapolitan school was represented by Durante and Venice (naturally) by Vivaldi. Austrian Mozart spent two of his most formative youthful years in Italy where he assimilated the exceptional melodic qualities of that country’s music. His divertimento K136 remains one of my favourite pieces and it was very agreeably played by the orchestra. Vivaldi is best known for his concerti composed for a variety of solo instruments but those for orchestra are equally good. This one was played with particular verve and ‘authenticity’ despite its not being performed on period instruments and with no harpsicord continuo present. But then the new fashion is now steering towards a question of style rather than mere ‘authentic instruments’.

Throughout this performance Animando’s instrumental balance was excellent, defeating any confrontation with the somewhat cavernous interior in which it performed. For particular praise was the double-bass playing by Valentina Ciardelli, one of Lucca conservatoire’s most distinguished graduates and one who has laudably established herself as a player and teacher of that neglected emperor of instruments in our London borough of Greenwich.

The concert’s second half was played by the ‘Luigi Boccherini’ chamber orchestra under the multifaceted musician Luca Bacci who is also the director of Lucca cathedral’s Santa Cecilia choir.

To demonstrate how Johann Sebastian Bach’s development was strongly influenced by Italian music Vivaldi’s concerto for four violins RV580 was played: the prototype for Bach’s recreation in his own four harpsichord concerto. Of particular interest to me was a very dashing symphony by Puccini – not the ‘La Bohème’ fellow, of course, but his grandfather Antonio. Music does run in so many families: just think of Bach and Mozart, for instance.

The acoustics of San Francesco are surprisingly good as befits a mammoth shoebox of a church without any side aisles. Baroque music demands a moderate resonance and I felt the building was well suited to the eighteenth century repertoire.

It was wonderful to return to the ‘concert hall’ in this lovely building after such a long deprivation; I realised that this was the first concert I’d been to since February. It was also an especial frisson to realise that we were hearing the music of Boccherini in the same church where he lies buried.

Perhaps the concert might have added a work by another of Lucca’ great musical geniuses, Geminiani, who as this inscription states taught the brits how to play the violin properly!

(Incidentally the dedication was written by the noted violinist and quartet leader Adolfo Betti, grandfather of Massimo Betti, Bagni di Lucca’s well-known chemist.)

There are a few more concerts in this series which has been brought to fruition in perhaps one of the most difficult years for music ever since the bombings of Milan’s la Scala and Dresden’s Semper opera houses during the last war.

Indeed, I had a vague intimation that this was how Myra Hess’s famous concerts in London’s National Gallery must have felt like during the Second World War when instead of being bombarded by a virus the populace had to confront incendiaries and mortars.

(Saint Francis and the Wolf of Gubbio – a stained glass window in the concert’s church)

As in all cases prior booking is required since numbers are limited and masks must be worn at all times and temperatures must be taken, as is written on the admission ticket…

Elisa’s Villa Resurrected

The hills surrounding Lucca are dotted with some very fine villas which not only provide an escape from the city’s often torrid summer heat but also supply their owners with farm produce, especially olives and wine.

One of the most notable of these villas is the ‘Villa Reale di Marlia’ Napoleon’s sister Elisa’s favourite summer residence during her time as princess of Lucca and where Paganini was her music teacher. Elisa transformed the old medieval structure into an elegant palace in the latest neo-classical fashion and redesigned its grounds into Italy’s first English-style landscape gardens with their broad natural vistas.

After the fall of the principality the property passed into the hands of Maria Louisa of the Bourbons and a long period of decadence subsequently followed. Luckily in 1923 the Villa Reale was purchased by the Italo-American Pecci-Blunt family who set about restoring it and turning it into a mecca for artists and cultural activities. One of their guests was Dali.

The Villa’s chapel is the resting place for the deceased members of this distinguished family.

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It must be terrible to have to part with such a gorgeous property but sadly this is what happened;

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(Camilla was a talented photographer of celebrities. Her husband managed the Rolling Stones’ recordings).

the villa entered into a second phase of dilapidation as the family decayed until in 2015 it was saved by a shining knight in the form of a young Swiss couple who had fallen in love with it. Five years of thorough restoration of the villa and its gardens ensued. Frescoes were cleaned, ornamental details were reinstated, furnishings and musical instruments were refurbished and the grounds were returned to their former glory. Most important for visitors the Villa itself was open to the public for the first time (The Pecci Blunts only allowed entry to the gardens) and from this year we are now able to enjoy the property’s varied charms.

(The times of opening together with many other details about the Villa Reale are shown on its web site at: https://villarealedimarlia.it/. Booking is necessary as entry numbers are limited).

Despite the strictures of Covid-19 it’s quite amazing how new life has been breathed into the villa and, in particular, through the various events it is programming.

We attended one of these events last Monday. It was ‘Shooting Star Night’, known in Italian as ‘La Notte di San Lorenzo’, when one wishes upon a star (or more correctly meteors and comets) and hopes that a request may be realised.

The wish to see a villa resplendent in all its original animated glory was certainly realised for us and the gardens were filled with varied events relating to the theme of the night. We started with a little refreshment, including a glass of Camellia gin, at the refreshment gazebo.

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We then proceeded to Pan’s grotto with its eccentric sculptures.

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Here a group of gifted singers dressed in the high-waisted empire style, entertained us with arias from Mozart and Bel canto operas.

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We accompanied some of them on a tour of the grounds as passengers in a horse-drawn wagonette.

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It was truly a sweet manner to be whisked away to a different more leisurely era (except for those ubiquitous face-masks which must be worn!)

The Villa’s gardens are divided into very different areas. First there’s the grand central lawn with views south to the Pisan Mountain

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and north towards the Pizzorne hills.

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The variety of trees and shrubs is remarkable: mimosa, camellia, magnolia, weeping willow, Gingko Biloba, hibiscus, and many others are all found in the grounds.

The Spanish garden, inspired by the Alhambra, was filled with bubbles by a very talented artiste who captured the attention of children of all ages.

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The two limonaie (orangeries) were the location for an art and a photographic exhibition, the latter concentrating on pictures of the cosmos.

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The Teatro Della Verzura (or theatre of greenery) with its manicured hedges and terracotta statuettes was the venue for a dramatic monologue dealing with Dorian Gray.

In the lemon garden acrobats and singers amused us as dusk approached and coloured lights were switched on.

We then visited the Villa Reale which has been perfectly restored – some might say too perfectly, but then there are still some fitments missing, curtains and draperies for example. One downstairs room was dedicated to the restoration with ‘before and after’ pictures. Everything has received the attention of the Swiss couple from the painted door panels to the ceiling decorations, from the Napoleonic bed to the harp and fortepiano. It has been truly a labour of love. One might say how lovely it is for people to be able to live again in this charming pleasure palace. However, the truth is the owners do not actually reside there but in the bishop’s ex-palace further along in the grounds. (No  photographs inside the villa are allowed).

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There are so many water features in the Villa’s park: a grand pond, the rivulets and fountains of the Spanish gardens,

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an art-deco swimming pool, the gorgeous colonnade

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and pond of the lemon garden

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and the semi-circular water theatre with its cascade behind the villa.

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Our enchanted evening concluded with an open-air talk by members of the Capannori observatory on the phenomena of ‘La Notte di San Lorenzo’. We learned the difference between comets, meteors and meteorites and, with the help of a laser, constellations and stars were pointed out to us. For instance, I finally found where Vega, the brightest star in the constellation of Lyra, is positioned and where Saturn is located.

There are plenty more events planned including a repeat of the one we attended and a cosplay day. Everything is well-marked on the villa’s web site. However, it is essential to pre-book; we obtained our tickets a week before our event which was just as well since it was sold out on the day. (Numbers are, again, limited by Covid 19 rules).

I just wish that Bagni di Lucca could have its own shining knight coming to the rescue of some of its own palatial dwellings like the Villas Ada and Fiori, for example. Is there anyone out there who missed buying the Villa Reale but is happy with something more modest?

Where’s My Flight?

I wonder how many people know why there’s a small jet plane on the ‘rotonda’ of the gyratory system accessing the autostrada from Lucca’s Viale Europa? The aircraft, a Piaggio-Douglas PD-808 multi-purpose jet was donated to Lucca by the Italian air force.

jet plane

 

If one manages to reach the central island displaying the PD-808 without getting run over by the busy traffic there’s a plaque which states “To the pilot Carlo del Prete and the aviators from Lucca”.

 

Who was Del Prete? Born in Lucca in 1897, he became a cadet at Livorno’s naval accademy and joined Italy’s Royal Navy serving on submarines during World War One. He took part in Gabriele d’Annunzio’s daring incursion against the Austrian navy at Buccari where his submarine escorted the poet’s legendary MAS 62 torpedo boat preserved at the ‘Vittoriale’ by lake Garda.

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After the war Del Prete got interested in aviation and qualified as a pilot in 1922. Transferring to the newly created Italian Royal Air force he became a navigator. In this role Del Prete organised and took part in various pioneering long-distance flights. The most important among these was the 1927 ‘Four Continents’ flight from Italy to Africa, across the Atlantic to Brazil and other South American countries, the Caribbean, the United States and back to Rome.

In 1928 Del Prete and his colleague Arturo Ferrarin undertook fifty one laps on a Savoia-Marchetti S64 between Ladispoli and Anzio breaking three world records. In the same year they flew the South Atlantic to Brazil where they were fêted in Rio de Janeiro and where there is a monument commemorating the flight. Unfortunately Del Prete crashed on a demonstration flight in the same year and was badly injured. Despite having a leg amputated to avoid infection the pioneering aviator died a few days later; he was posthumously awarded Italy’s highest honour for those serving its air force, the Gold Medal to Aeronautic Valour.

Lucca has not only remembered Carlo Del Prete with the Piaggio-Douglas jet but also by naming a street after him. It’s the one which runs externally along the walls from Porta San Donato to Porta Santa Maria. Furthermore, if any of you are curious about a giant eagle in Piazza San Pietro Somaldi it nests on the house where Del Prete lived.

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Bagni di Lucca has its aviation hero too. In 2017 I attended the unveiling of a memorial plaque to Mario Calderara, Italy’s first licensed pilot, on the façade of the Villa Gamba.

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A private invitation from Pietro, the highly personable descendant of the Gamba-Calderara family, enabled us to visit the gardens and the piano nobile of the villa, otherwise strictly closed to the general public. Pietro showed us some valuable blueprints of his ancestor’s airplane designs.

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The full name of the villa is Gamba-Calderara and Mario Calderara (1879-1944), one of Italy’s greatest pioneer aviators, lived there. Calderara was the first Italian to get a pilot’s license in 1909 and was the builder of Italy’s first flying boat in 1911.

Mario, like his fellow Lucchese Carlo del Prete, joined Livorno’s naval academy where he graduated as midshipman in 1901. He became fascinated by the problems of flight and avidly studied the Wright brothers’ pioneering efforts. In 1907 Calderara reached a height of over 50 feet on his biplane towed by a ship. In 1909 he piloted his first unassisted heavier-than-air fight at Buc in France.

The big breakthrough occurred when Calderara invited Wilbur Wright to Rome. Wright gave Calderara some flying lessons and, consequently, Calderara’s flights increased in length.

In 1911 Calderara built a flying boat, the largest in the world and managed to fly three passengers on it in 1912. In 1917 he became one of the founders of the RAF’s Italian equivalent.

(Mario Calderara is another feather in the cap of those greats who have established Bagni di Lucca as a centre of excellence. For example, our town was the first in Italy to have electric street lighting, the first one to found a Scout troop, the first to pioneer hydro-therapy, the birthplace of Puccini’s ‘Turandot’ (as well as the place where most of the maestro’s ‘Girl of the Golden West’ was composed. It’s great that Bagni di Lucca is now also remembered as the home of one of Italy’s greatest aviation pioneers and co-founder of its air force).

Carlo del Prete and Mario Calderara make us reflect on the miracle of heavier-than-air flight and how we have become used to, indeed dependent on it, at no time more than the present when so many of us are stranded in some non-Italian part of the globe still waiting for that elusive flight to appear and return us to the ‘Bel Paese’!

A Load of Hot Air?

It’s now a month ago since we were whisked back from Sri Lanka to the UK and safety. True, it was good to get home in a very difficult situation for there are  still hundreds of Brits stuck in various parts of the globe waiting to get back to their loved ones.

At the time, however, Sandra felt that Sri Lanka was the safer place to be in. I replied that it wasn’t and, besides, that if we caught the virus it would be a totally unfair weight on the local health services which, anyway, wouldn’t be half as well-equipped as our own NHS.

This morning I looked again at the world statistics illustrating those affected by the pandemic and was somewhat surprised. Sandra was indeed right!

The UK has now exceeded the 20,000 limit of deaths from the virus which it thought would contain it. Sri Lanka, instead, has just 7 dead. OK, the population of the UK is 65 million and that of Sri Lanka is about a third of that at 21 million. In this case, however, either the UK should have had 21 dead or Sri Lanka should have had a thousand times more deaths than its actual figures.

What does this mean? Clearly there are other factors involved, one of which is the point that those returning to the UK are still not being properly checked, that the first UK deaths were reported two weeks before Sri Lanka’s first victim and, most importantly, that the figures in the two countries may not accurately reflect the real situation.

Nevertheless, I cannot help feeling that, as the nation with the fifth highest number of deaths from Covid-19, there is going to be a need for unravelling loads of explanations and investigations when the pandemic terminates (if it ever really going to end entirely)….

Meanwhile our beloved leader is back in no 10 after his spell in ICU and jollifying up the nation with his unique brand of rhetorically enhanced humour, his expansive bonhomie and his unperturbed sang froid. How long further are we going to believe him?

I conclude with a further load of hot air, this time from the festival of hot air balloons held annually in the autumn at the Villa Mansi. I discovered these photographs of mine dating from 2005. Could that be really have been that many years ago!

 

Atishoo Atishoo We all Fall Down

One of the most extensive pandemics in Italy’s past, the Great Plague of 1630 harvested its maximum number of victims in northern Italy. Milan lost over a quarter of its inhabitants to ‘la peste’. Verona was the worst affected with over half of its citizens dying in horrible agony. The pandemic started with French and Austrian soldiers marching into Italy as mercenary garrisons for the main towns of the Po valley. Another factor was the extreme poverty of the population reduced by years of austerity under governments who failed to provide basic services in food production and medical facilities. Over a million perished in the great plague: around a quarter of the population.

The pandemic spread to other parts of Europe and may have been instrumental in causing the Great Plague of London in 1665.

The ‘Peste’ was graphically written about by Italy’s great writer Alessandro Manzoni in his novel ‘I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed).

Like many other plagues its origin was eastern and may have been related to the Mongol invasion which almost conquered the Hapsburg empire. Special wear was developed to enable improved survival rates. Here are some examples.

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The beak-like mask enabled lavender pomanders to be inserted to protect the wearer from infection and combat stench from decomposing corpses.


With the medical knowledge of the age it was impossible to halt its progress although isolation centres known as Lazzaretti (the church of the Milan lazzaretto was recently restored) were set up. A certain Doctor Giuseppe Daciano did write an interesting treatise, however, on the pandemic and the methods of not catching it or curing it:

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What is most disturbing is the fate allocated to Lucca described in the prophecies of Nostradamus. In one of his quatrains he  mentions a “great plague” and the Italian city of Lucca.

(Century III, Quatrain 19) “In Lucca it will come to rain blood and milk”.

It would be a simple matter to quarantine many of the inhabitants of Lucca since they live in a city surrounded by massive walls should the prophecy ever come to be realised.

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On the bright side the great plague of northern Italy of the seventeenth century claimed many fewer victims than the 15th century pestilence known as the Black Death. That was one of the most devastating pandemics in history and  killed off an  estimated 75 to 200 million people in Europe and Asia.

(Any similarity between 1630 and 2020 are now not purely coincidental. Indeed, all inhabitants of Lucca, as all inhabitants of Italy, are under quarantine with all non-essential journeys banned.

PS Many of you may know that the nursery rhyme quote which titles this post alludes to the Great Plague of London in 1665.)

Clinically Cured

I’m waking up after my second night at the Barbantine, a private clinic in the south east corner of the old walled city of Lucca. I’ve been here before for various minor ailments as the Italian National Health service (which has been voted the third finest in the world, an appraisal I would now not disagree with) has a contract with the clinic (as it has with another, the Santa Zita, in the north west corner of the old city) for sending its patients there.

Why am I here? It’s because the matter arose of a simple urological problem which required a TURP (transurethal resection of the prostate i.e. a scrape of the prostate). I had to prepare for the ‘intervento’ by fasting for a whole day and by wearing special white elastic stockings to improve blood circulation.

 

I am now  in the position of being able to evaluate this particular department of the Italian health service.

First, the accomodation. I was given an excellent two-bedroomed ward with en-suite and TV which during the day was filled with other patients (hernia op. etc) but which left the nights completely by myself and snore-free.

Second, the food. I was served with simple continental breakfast (coffee, biscuits and rusks), lunch (rice, meat and two veg, pear) and supper (pasta broth, canned meat and two veg, apple). The fare was quite acceptable.

Third, the operation. I was given a local anaesthetic up my spine which effectively numbed the lower regions of my body and a glass of ‘gocce del coraggio’ (courage drops) to sedate me. I was wheeled into the theatre. The process began and a TV monitor provide me with what at first I thought was a horror movie but which turned out to be the interior of the area of my body where the scraping was being carried out. Fascinating viewing!

I found all members of the staff to be conscientious and professional. There was nothing to fault them. The clinic was kept spotless and my ward was swept twice in a day. I am truly glad I landed up here rather than in certain places I know in my country of birth.

Incidentally, the Barbantine is so called after its founder Maria Barbantini (1789-1868). Losing her husband early in her married life Barbantini became a nun and founded her own order dedicated to the care of the sick. Her clinic is still managed by the nuns although the majority of staff are secular. Sister Barbantini was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1995.

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It is quite marvellous, after one’s discharge, to be able to step outside and, within a stone’s throw, to take a morning stroll in improved health on Lucca’s walls lined by trees now tinged with the first colours of autumn.

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I doubt whether many other hospitals have such gorgeous surroundings. (Views from my room in the clinic).