The Libraries of Barga

Barga, one of Italy’s ‘più bei borghi d’Italia’ (‘the most beautiful towns’) possesses three main libraries. The first is the borough Library in via dell’acquedotto which is mainly aimed at an Italian-speaking public. It has a facebook page giving current information about facilities and opening times at https://www.facebook.com/bibliotecabarga.

The second is the red telephone book-exchange mini-library in Via Marconi. Gifted to the ‘Barchigiani’ in 2008 by Mauro Cecchini, a retired Fish and Chip owner in Edinburgh originally from Barga, it makes a superb use of the famous red ‘jubilee kiosk’ designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott to commemorate George V’s silver Jubilee in 1935. Once a familiar site through the UK the telephone box was in danger of extinction had it not been for the efforts of my ex-school mate and distinguished architectural writer Gavin Stamp. (You can read more about him and his campaign in my post at https://longoio3.com/2018/01/07/a-great-architectural-historian-lost-to-us/).

The third is the much-loved Barganews Library, an ever-growing, mainly English-language collection of books kept in the headquarters of barganews.com, Piazza Angelio, Barga Vecchia.

It was in 2006 that Barganews founder and editor Keane invited a friend to help organize a lending library in his office in old Barga. Caroline Walters asked me to help her and I found myself organizing books into their various categories novels, non-fiction, crime and thrillers, biography, classics, travel, romance, children, classics and so forth. My wife, Sandra, also provided invaluable help.

Keane pointed out that the book’s ISBN would be useful in the cataloguing process (although there were several older books, mainly published before 1970, that did not have this number. We pursued this system scanning the books into a computer database. We also distinguished book categories by using different colour tapes placed on their covers. My friend suggested that I would have to improve as a library assistant since I liked to browse through most new books I placed on the shelves and this slowed things down a bit!

(Keane, the originator of Barganews and its library   in 2006)

Sadly Caroline died of complications arising from Leukemia in Pisa hospital on the 14th July 2008. A new librarian was recruited. Ana Onatah further did sterling work in developing the library until she moved to France some time later.

The Barganews library (web site at https://www.barganews.com/the-giornaledibarganews-library/) continues to flourish to this day and with the easing of pandemic lock-down regulations should now become more easily accessible. The library is open to members from 10 am to 10pm, seven days a week and membership is just 30 euros per annum plus one book donation when one becomes a members. There are over four thousand books, primarily in English.  Members receive a key, for their own personal use so they are free to use the library whenever they wish.

Many of us, denied access to our libraries because of Covid-19, have relied on e-libraries and e-books such as Kindle. It will be nice, however, to have once again the choice of handling a real instead of a virtual book and having the pleasure of feeling its covers and turning its pages. Let us hope that libraries will soon open up and that more people will appreciate them, especially when they have been denied access to these vital facilities for too long.

 

 

The Abandoned Village of Fociomboli

I have been organizing my photographs during this continuing lock-down situation and it’s both a rewarding and an emotional experience. There is so much happiness in the photos in the wonderful times I’ve had with friends and relatives. There is however, some sadness. It’s not just those persons we have lost through the grim reaper, it’s the friendships we have thrown away through misunderstanding and intolerance or just changes in attitudes. As the great Doctor Samuel Johnson wrote: ‘ life has no pleasure higher or nobler than that of friendship. It is painful to consider that this sublime enjoyment may be impaired or destroyed by innumerable causes, and that there is no human possession of which the duration is less certain’.

Certainly friendship is a transient phenomenon. Humanity, sadly, takes hardly any example from other animals whose solidarity and faithfulness is proverbial like the swan, the yellow crested penguin, the gray wolf or the French angelfish.

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Looking through photos of by-gone parties and get-togethers it’s hard to believe that people we would not be in any hurry to see today were once our treasured guests! Ah… such is the sad fate of humanity….or dishumanity!

More pleasurable are those photographs dealing with places and, although now technology can tag these scenes with their precise location, there was a time when we had to rely on our memory. Such is the case with my photos of one of the many abandoned villages in our Serchio valley whose exact location I could not remember.

For there was once a time when families would abandon their winter dwellings and practise transhumance, moving flocks of sheep and goats to the Apuan mountains’ upper pastures. Summer villages would spring up, complete with their chapels, to take full advantage of the luscious summer meadows.

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I placed my photographs of one of these villages on the Apuan Mountains web page at https://www.facebook.com/groups/63530040096/ asking if anyone recognized the location.

I quickly obtained an amazing response with over a hundred reactions. I think I now know what the name of the place is!

There was, however, disagreement among some respondents about whether the village was Campanice or Col di Favilla. Let the comments speak for themselves:

The place is Col di Favilla. In 1921 it was still an inhabited village. There was a village shop, a tavern and a tobacconist. Until 1970 it was lived in by an elderly husband and wife. They were shepherds who raised Pontremolese cows. When these cows died the bull remained for a long time time in a wild state. This bull often attacked hikers and my father was a victim.The church was renovated with donations from emigrants to the Americas”.

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However, another person writes:

“It is not Col di Favilla. It was completely abandoned in the 1950s and the church was restored by emigrants living in the Versilia plain. The cows were left in the wild by a lady from Isola Santa called Vince. I think you’re confusing it with another place.”

Campanice seems a popular choice of location.

It’s Campanice. It’s under the Freddone mountain that divides Campanice from Puntato mountain. It’s reached from Fociomboli going from Merletti bridge immediately after the Cipollaio tunnel. Together with Favilla it’s another village not too distant from the Pizzo delle Saette in the Pania range. You can get there by going up the path that crosses Isola Santa dam or by going down from Mosceta or from Puntato. The roadway there is closed by a barrier because it’s private. However, your photos show Campanice. If I am not mistaken it would have its annual feast’s day.”

Campanice is again confirmed as the village’s name:

“It’s Campanice, with behind it the west ridge of Mount Freddone.” An explanation of the name follows:The name ‘Campanice’ means ‘field sown in panic’… the village was born as a mountain pasture in Terrinca along an ancient transhumance road.”

Finally another commentator suggests the following visit:Go back and then take a walk to Puntato behind the Freddone….another paradise.”

Anyway, thanks to all those contributors who answered my question asking for a location for my photographs. They really make me want to return to the enchanted abandonnment of a village which I visited with a friend those many years ago, a friend who, alas, is no more – not because of any misunderstanding but because of the grim reaper himself.

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Cannibalism at La Chiesaccia

Fornovolasco is an attractive little town at the head of the Turrite di Gallicano valley. It has an iron-smelting past having been founded by master smiths from Brescia. The name, in fact, means ‘Volasco’s furnace’, Volasco being a common surname in that north Italian city.

There are several wonderful walks with a starting point from Fornovolasco and, on one occasion for us, with a finishing point when we descended from the summit of that queen of all Apuan peaks the Pania Della Croce.

We were lucky not to be eaten alive according to a story we were later told. It’s to do with the cannibal friars of Fornovolasco.

Going up the Turrite di Gallicano stream through the Fornovolasco woods on the path that leads to Monte Forato one comes across a ruin known as the ‘chiesaccia’.

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Italian has various suffixes that can be added to a noun. For example, if ‘piatto’ means ‘dish’ adding ‘ino’ to the end of the noun, changing it into ‘piattino’, means ‘little dish’. Similarly, ‘one’ added to ‘piatto’, changing it into ‘piattone’, means a big dish. Adding ‘accio’ and changing ‘piatto’ into ‘piattaccio’ means a bad dish (in the case of food) or an ugly dish (in the case of crockery).

So ‘chiesaccia’ may mean an ugly church (in terms of its architecture or structural condition) or a bad church in terms of its clerics and beliefs. I leave you to decide what meaning should be applied in our case.

In 1260, the ‘Libelli extimi Lucanae Diocesis’, a document listing all churches, monasteries and places of worship in the Lucchesia, names the ‘chiesaccia’ among those churches dependent on the Pieve di Santa Felicita of Valdicastello. The latter structure, consecrated to S. Maria Maddalena, was located in Petrosciana along a branch of the Via Francigena, at the time the only route between the Middle Serchio valley and the Versilia. The Augustinian friars were its custodians from around 800 AD.

The “Chiesaccia” was mainly used to welcome and refresh wayfarers who, for business or pilgrimage, travelled from the Garfagnana to Versilia and the sea via the Foce di Petrosciana pass. It’s said, however, that these friars were not as pious and merciful as they wished others to believe. In fact, wayfarers who stopped for hospitality at this monastery were never seen again! The reason? During the night the friars gave themselves to cannibalism and ate the poor wayfarers alive, maybe with a little salt and pepper added. During these “special” evening banquets the bells of the monastery would ring throughout the valley.

Hearing the nocturnal sound of these deadly bells, the local faithful knew that the friars had feasted that night too!

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Another version connects the derogatory “Chiesaccia” to the fact that the monks, if not actually killing them, would frighten and prey on the wayfarers and pilgrims who passed along the Petrosciana path. What can one say? Legends are not born by chance!

The indications for the C(lub)A(lpino)I(taliano) signed paths are soon spotted at the bridge next to Fornovolasco’s ‘La Buca’ inn. After about ten minutes the paths leave the asphalt road. They continue together passing first a spring and then a cave known as ‘la tana che urla’ (the den that screams) because of its remarkable echo. Shortly afterwards the paths divide: no. 6 leads to Petrosciana while no. 12 heads for the amazing natural arch of Monte Forato (see my post on that at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/06/11/crossing-the-monte-forato/).

Follow no 6 that with a long but fairly gentle ascent alongside almost all of its stretch up a stream.

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Along this path you will find the ruins of an old mill

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and then come across the “Chiesaccia”.

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If you manage to avoid being barbecued by the monks you can continue up and reached the Petrosciana pass and the path following on which is number 137.

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Happy walking!

Pretty Pinner

Pinner was just a name until the other week when I caught a glimpse of its high street from the H13 bus I was on travelling from Ruislip lido (see my post at https://longoio3.com/2020/06/15/londons-best-beach/). I was amazed at how a Greater London suburb could produce something so much like a rural village scene with its half-timbered buildings and church tower at the top of the hilly street.

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We returned to Pinner for the mundane but exceedingly necessary task of collecting a toaster from its Argos store nestled within a Sainsbury conveniently close to the station on the Metropolitan line so eloquently hymned by the heritage writer John Betjeman.

Pinner dates back to the tenth century when it was first recorded as a hamlet called Pinnora after the river Pinn which runs through the town and which can be glimpsed in a handerchief of a garden on the main road.

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The parish church of St John the Baptist dates back to the fourteenth century and there are domestic dwellings surviving from the sixteenth century.

However, it was with the coming of the Metropolitan railway that Pinner expanded rapidly, especially during the inter-war period when a number of significant art-deco flats and houses were built. Here’s one I spotted, the grade II listed Elm Court with its graceful entrance arch.

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Pinner is a traditional home of retired colonels and stockbrokers and it’s clearly an affluent part of London with leafy avenues and large houses but I didn’t find it particularly snooty or pretentious unlike other ‘affluent ‘areas such as Hampstead or Belgravia.

Strangely Pinner has no Waitrose, an iconic sign of gentility if there ever was one, but surprisingly it possesses a very well stocked Lidl discount store at the top of its high street instead.

We came across a fine fish and chip shop and, with one of the largest cods we’ve seen in a long time, headed to the delightful Pinner memorial park nearby.

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Formerly the garden of a large house known as West House, once owned by Horatia, the daughter of Horatio Nelson and Lady Hamilton, the park is small but perfectly formed.

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It has a fine collection of tall pines and other more exotic trees harking back to the park’s history,

a sweet duck pond,

a cafe (now open for take-aways) and a museum dedicated to Pinner’s best known past inhabitant Heath Robinson, the cartoonist who drew those wonderfully devised machines with such complex pulleys and wheels to perform the simplest of tasks like the one for an easier way of conveying green peas to the mouth,

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the tabby silencer, which automatically throws water at serenading cats

and the one for testing artificial teeth.

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Unfortunately the museum, which also hosts contemporary art exhibitions still remained closed at the time of our visit – a good reason to return.

The Memorial garden are so called because they also contain within West House a memorial to all those killed in the two wars.

With its annual street market, one of the few places left in the UK that still holds one, the lowest crime record in all London, its good schools, its Carluccio Italian restaurant, its balanced ethnic mix, its wide variety of individual shops, its high life-expectancy rate and its healthy climate Pinner is clearly an attractive place to investigate.

Next time I think I’ll explore some of the town’s art deco treasures and also take in the expansive Pinner country park…and, of course, have another delicious fish ‘n chips from the five-star rated ‘Ideal Fish Bar’.

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Cassiobury Park

I reached Cassiobury Park via the Metropolitan line’s Watford branch. The station there is rural in character and it’s just a short walk to the park’s entrance.

Like so many open spaces in and around London Cassiobury was linked to a fabulous mansion belonging to the Earls of Essex. Here is a print of the estate in the eighteenth century. It must have been truly magnificent.

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Unfortunately the house, like many others when the world changed radically after the Great War, proved too expensive to maintain and it was demolished in 1927 with many of its fixtures sold. When one thinks that the house was decorated by the likes of Grindling Gibbons and Antonio Verrio its loss is quite considerable, although large part of it were reconstructed in Bedford, New York USA and many of its treasures are spread in museums throughout the world.

Luckily the park survives and has not been a victim to the area’s endemic house building. Comprising over 190 acres it still preserves the monumental avenue which lead to the vanished mansion.

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There’s a lovely spread of woodland, lawns and waterways: both the river Gade and the Grand Union canal wind their way through the park.

The western part of the park consists of Whippendell wood, a tract of ancient forest consisting mainly of oak, ash, beech and silver birch trees. Here one leaves the civilised part of Cassiobury behind and enters into a wild wood like that described in ‘The Wind in the Willows’.

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The wood gives way westwards to large fields of corn bounded by dense forests.

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I could have carried walking until goodness knows when but decided to reach urbanity by cutting across a narrow path leading to a delightful hamlet called Little Green.

Here I met a horse who was tossing an empty container up and down – clearly he was getting irritated by the fact that none of his human servants had refilled it with his oats!

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Passing the remains of a little pond

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I eventually reached a housing estate at the end of which a bus returned me to Watford, this time to its ‘junction’ station and homewards.

Bagni di Lucca and its Stand Against Racism

With all the current commotion regarding racism and statues I thought I might say something about my experiences with the phenomenon. At first sight I might not be considered to be a candidate for racist attacks as a white, British born and bred person. However, I am the outcome of an immediately post-war marriage between an Anglican Protestant English father and an Italian Roman Catholic mother.

Their union in the still very narrow-minded milieu of both countries at the time was a challenging one especially as it was also a shot-gun marriage. My mother had to put up with a lot of flack from some of my father’s relatives and having a very strong-willed character did not help either. She did however, make several friends. First and foremost they were among similarly exiled Italians, one of whom I remember very well and which is featured with his partner in this photograph taken in Knole palace’s great park.

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Knole is such a lovely place that we have never wanted to stray from it for very long. Indeed, it’s also inspired the following from me.

 

THE DEER PARK

Beyond the oak leaves a palace

is hidden. By a curve

suddenly we see its brick face:

milord’s and deer’s preserve.

 

Like a compact town it throws spires,

gables, columns and courts.

From its chapel sing silent quires:

religion’s decayed thoughts.

 

Within, the tapestries are thread

with classical lovers

and casements lead to gardens spread

with spring songs of plovers.

 

And as we walk around the wall

the hollow tree still stands

where, hidden in its ancient thrall,

I imagined strange lands.

 

You and I now have this demesne,

the house is ours to keep,

and through it we shall yet regain

lost kingdom’s broken sleep.

 

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(A Deer Chatting up Sandra at Knole)

Other friends included those of Roman Catholic persuasion especially priests and abbots; particularly devoted to Aylesford Priory my mother was present at its re-foundation.

Eventually Vera found an exhausting but very rewarding job as a social worker among mentally troubled Italian immigrants – a job which eventually led to her becoming more involved in mental illness therapy as a Freudian psychoanalyst.

It must be remembered that at the time Italians were still caricatured as mandolin players and spaghetti eaters. (This was before the average Brit was introduced to the delights of continental cooking by that pioneer cookery writer Elizabeth David). Italians were the butt of various jokes of this sort: ‘How many gears does an Italian tank have? One forward and four reverse’ – a cruelly inapt joke seeing that even the Germans recognized the heroic aspect of many Italian campaigns – especially in Russia where they launched the last (albeit futile) full-scale cavalry attack at Isbuschenskij).

(The last great cavalry charge, Isbuschenskij 1942)

My wife recollects that the place where her father worked and where they had tied accommodation, the Italian Institute of Culture in London’s Belgrave square, was subject to vandalism and spite gestures including the introduction of faeces into the letterbox.

With both some relatives and some mean-minded Brits brought up in a milieu of ignorance and bias my mother could not have gone far without experiencing racism. One instance I remember with embarrassment on my part as an eight-year old occurred while waiting in the family doctor’s (Iris Copeman) surgery in Lewisham High street. My mother was speaking to me in her excellent but clearly differently accented English. Suddenly another person in the waiting room, a middle-aged man, hearing her speak said to her gruffly ‘You bloody foreigners! Why don’t you go back and live in your own country’. My mother and I were taken back and the man must have realised he had behaved inappropriately for he left shortly afterward without waiting for his appointment. My mother turned to me and said ‘Why didn’t you say anything? Why didn’t you speak up for me, your mother. ‘ I couldn’t reply but felt very downcast at my inability to have said anything to the man who launched what I was later to define as a racist attack.

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(St Saviour’s Church Lewisham where I was baptised)

For at school we never even were told what racism was. True, there were still only white pupils at my primary school of Dalmain road. Even when I was at secondary school and met up for the first time with students from Africa and Asia I did not think them any different or in any need of special protection or awareness. After all we were in the same school, in the same boat suffering under the same schoolteachers!

This leads me to consider the current slogan ‘black lives matter’ printed on tee-shirts and present at every anti-racist demonstration. Actually, of course, every life counts, not only because we are all humans, but because even white people suffer racist attacks, as happened in the case of my mother. I would go even further and say that all people who find racism abhorrent are likely to suffer racist attacks because of their belief in the essential equality of all humans.

It’s easy for white people to look at people of a different colour and state ‘we’d better not say anything against them because after all we could be arrested for inciting racial hatred.’ However, it’s also the case that white people launch racial attacks against other white people. The Eastern European fruit pickers in places like King’s Lynn are subject to such attacks. ‘Why can’t they speak English like the rest of us.’ is a typical refrain from those parts. I know some non-English white people who are afraid even to open their mouth in an all-white English context for fear of showing up where they come from. At its worst this situation contributes to the ghastly undercurrent running in Brexitism. This is why I truly think that most racists voted for Brexit. I cannot believe that there was any majority of remainers among the thugs gathered in Parliament square over the week-end.

As for statues the United Kingdom can talk! For every statue (and some really do thanks to modern technology – witness Thomas Coram’s statue outside London’s Foundling hospital) does talk and say something about the time they lived and the attitudes they carried. Each one is an essential part of our history and must in some way be preserved and not purged. Are we then going to descend into the realms of Pharaonic ancient Egypt or Neronian Rome when new rulers would assert their power by wiping out all traces of their predecessor?

(Ramses II)

At its utmost nemesis this transforms itself into an incarnation of talebanic proportions. Are we going to blow up the Colosseum because it supported the eating of Christians by lions or the massacre of gladiatorial slaves from the African and eastern provinces?

What then is the situation regarding the Elgin marbles? First of all their name should be changed to Parthenon marbles. Second, they should seriously be considered for return to their country of creation – the glory that was Greece.

(The Parthenon Marbles)

After all India did offer to return her collection of Viceroy statues back to the former heart of the Empire only to have the generous offer refused by its former overlords. In the face of refusal the new republic of India dumped them all in Coronation park – a marvellous open-air museum displaying the follies of an empire based essentially on racism since it saw other races as subject races (as the British are, as comically emphasised in Italian TV broadcasts, ‘sudditi di Sua Maestà – subjects of Her Majesty).

(Coronation Park New Delhi)

Meanwhile Bagni di Lucca where I reside, can truly be proud of its reputation towards people from other countries. It has been the refuge of artistic and political exiles from the English poet Shelley to the Hungarian freedom fighter Sándor Teleki. It remains a sanctuary for those seeking a different life away from the hectic cities they have abandoned and it offers a safe haven for those fleeing from political persecution and hunger.

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(Plaque commemorating Byron’s stay in Bagni di Lucca at the Villa Webb. The inscription translates as ‘Georg(sic) Gordon Byron / During the summer of 1822 he found in the serene peacefulness of this land relief from the anxieties of his life.’

London’s Best Beach

One of the advantages of the current lock-down is the time we have to explore our local area. There are sights and beautiful corners we never believed existed until now. Does it really have to take a pandemic to discover them?

I’ve already written posts about discovering parks and open spaces like Fryent (https://longoio3.com/2020/05/06/the-countryside-in-the-city/), Welsh Harp (https://longoio3.com/2019/10/23/i-laghi-di-londra/) and the Duke of Chandos’ estate (https://longoio3.com/2019/07/15/il-duca-piu-ricco-dinghilterra/).

My curiosity was aroused by reports of a lake at Ruislip. Last week I set out to explore its woods and its lido. Though not exactly the Venice lido, Ruislip’s has its own very special charm and is encircled by gorgeous woodland through which a miniature railway wends its sylvan way.

The lido was originally opened as a feeder reservoir for the Grand Union canal in 1811. (See my post on that at https://longoio3.com/2020/06/05/can-do-canal-walk/ ). However, it did not achieve this job satisfactorily and the role was stopped in 1851.

In 1933, during the thirties craze for open-air activities the lake was inaugurated as a lido complete with boating and swimming facilities. It’s truly the nearest London may get to emulating the Costa Del Sol with its sweet sandy beach complete with pirate ship!

The enchanting walk round the lake through the ancient woods has a number of small jetties where one can observe and feed the wetland denizens of the lake.

It also includes a fascinating ‘planets’ trail marking in scale the distances between the planets of our solar system. Thus, there’s a long walk between Neptune and Uranus but towards the end Mars, Earth, Venus and Mercury are just a few feet from each other!

In happier times I hope to return and take a ride on the UK’s longest stretch of one foot gauge miniature railway and perhaps even take a dip in the lake waters. May both facilities reopen soon…together with the cafe and bar.

The Most Beautiful Woman in the World?

One of the positive things about the current lock-down is that it has enabled me in my stretched out time-span to google the web in search of often neglected classic films. Some sites clearly require a subscription but a surprising majority of movies are freely available for on-line streaming as they are in the public domain.

Should one approach classical Hollywood cinema in terms of its most important directors, its most magnetic stars or its variegated genres?

I’ve chosen all three themes to continue my exploration.

The star system was invented in Hollywood: promising actors and actress groomed to perform at their most characteristic and their loveliest or most handsome. This was certainly the case with Hedy Lamarr, dubbed ‘the most beautiful woman in the world’. Austrian by birth Lamarr achieved notoriety through her Czechoslovak film ‘Extase’ in which she not only appeared nude but also acted out the first female orgasm to appear on the silver screen. This was obviously before the notorious Hays code heavily censored films.

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Later, escaping from Nazi Germany and a power-freak husband Lamarr entered the Hollywood studios where her first film ‘Algeria’ – a precursor of ‘Casablanca’ with its similar theme of the heroine’s craving for a passport to freedom – left the audience gasping at her effulgent beauty. Seeing this film on YouTube the other week I can only agree. Here’s one still I took of heavenly Hedy.

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Having basked in the souks of Algiers under the spell of Hedy’s heady eyes and her gracefully sensuous lips I took in a few more of the star’s films.

‘Lady of the Tropics’, set in Vietnam, ‘I’ll take this Woman’, the story of a kept-man and pre-dating ‘Sunset Boulevard’ , Ziegfield Girl’, a bonanza of a musical also starring a young Judy Garland, fresh from her triumph starring in ‘The Wizard of Oz’, ‘H.M.Pulham’, the tale of a man licked into shape by his unemotional wife but ever haunted by his love for a beauty he almost married – probably the most impressively psychological of Lamarr’s films, ‘White Cargo’, another film again set in an oriental scenario, ‘The Strange Woman’, surely her strangest film too about an ambiguous persona, and the latest one to view, ‘Dishonoured Lady’, a film already full of the mystery and sudden twists of ‘Film Noir’ which increasingly dominated 1940’s cinema.

Incidentally, Hedy Lamarr combined brains with beauty. She was also an inventor and developed the frequency-hopping development we now know as Bluetooth as a way of preventing the Axis powers from jamming Allied communications during World War II,

One of my favourite classic Hollywood actresses, Olivia De Havilland, who played Melanie Hamilton in ‘Gone with the Wind’ (1939) and ‘The Snake Pit’ (1948) where she finds herself in an insane asylum, is still with us at age 103. How amazing!

I adore ‘Film Noir’ ever since my dad persuaded me to watch ‘Double Indemnity’ –starring Barbara Stanwyck and Fred MacMurray – about a siren love destroying an insurance agent. My dad at the time worked as a rep for the Prudential so I do not doubt that this was one of the reasons why he appreciated the film so much. It remains for me ever a masterpiece of its genre. Incidentally, I have also come under the spell of a siren love for most of my life. Fortunately the results have been quite otherwise.

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It’s sad that a work colleague, Robin Buss, who became film critic for the Independent and translator for Penguin French classics, is no longer with us on this planet. Already author of very persuasive books on French and Italian cinema

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he also wrote one on the excitingly tense, hothouse atmosphere and drivingly nail-biting scenarios of ‘film noir.’ Again, I’ve explored on-line sites and enjoyed some great films which have completely transported me away from the present rather unbearable times. Of these I have particularly enjoyed ‘The Maltese Falcon’, ‘Laura’, ‘Sunset Boulevard’ and ‘The Lady from Shanghai’. But you’ll have your own favourites.

Looking at films by way of directors I cannot resist (like most of us) films by that master, Alfred Hitchcock. I’m fortunate in that my wife picked up a few unforgettable titles in charity shops (while they were still open). Among these are ‘Vertigo’ starring Kim Novak (who is still with us!) and ‘The Thirty Nine Steps’ with such a memorable partnership between the great Robert Donat and Madeleine Carroll.

I could add so many more films to my list of Hollywood classics: ‘Portrait of Jenny’, for example.

However, it’s going to be up to you to rediscover your favourites and research new finds. A film, whether it be on the silver screen or in opulent technicolour is a truly effective way of forgetting the present ghastly, ineffectual ways a government is attempting to tackle the greatest crisis to hit the UK and the world since a bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. I just hope the number of dead won’t be anything like the same….

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(Sandra enjoying her dessert)

A Concert in the Sky

One of the greatest losses, not only for the Lucchesia but for the whole musical world, as a result of the horrible pandemic, which is showing no end and no mercy, is the death in March of Maestro Luigi Roni. Born in the Serchio Valley’s village of Vergemoli in 1942, Roni first studied the bassoon in Lucca before changing to singing. He made his debut aged 22 at the Spoleto festival playing the part of Mephistopheles in Gounod’s opera ‘Faust’.

Roni sang with such greats as Montserrat Caballé, Luciano Pavarotti, Plàcido Domingo and José Carreras at La Scala, Vienna State Opera, Paris Opera and New York’s Metropolitan. One of the bass singer’s last performances was in April, 2019 when he sang the part of Simone in Puccini’s ‘Gianni Schicchi’ at Genoa’s Carlo Felice theatre.

Equally sad is the fact that Roni’s wife died shortly before him – another victim of the deadly virus. But, having left each other for a short while they are together again. Love can be that strong sometimes.

Roni retained a special affection for the valley in which he was born and in 2002 founded the ‘Serchio delle Muse’ festival with the aim of bringing great musical performances to the remotest villages of his beloved ‘Valle del Serchio’.

We have always looked forwards with eagerness to this remarkable summer festival. The venues chosen for it are often remote and unknown to most people but not less beautiful for that. Town piazzas, forgotten churches and ancient palaces have all featured in the festival’s performances. One particular venue, however, literally tops it all for me. This is the concert regularly given at the Rifugio Rossi by the slopes of that mother of Apuan mountains, the Pania Della Croce.

To get to the venue is a couple of hour’s walk up footpath no 17 which leads to the extensive alpine-like meadows below the rocky Pania. The way is quite magical. The first part of it snakes through dense woodland before thinning into a birch forest and then freeing itself in the glorious uplands of the Pania massif.

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The singers and the instrumentalists all have to take the same path and clearly must be reasonably fit to tackle the rocky way. There is no helicopter service laid on except, perhaps, for the piano (though not for the pianist!).

Arriving at paradisiacal heights we spread ourselves out above the rifugio and waited for the performers to assemble.

In 2007 it was a soprano recital accompanied by a band of brass and introduced by the inimitable Debora Pioli.

Before us extended the vastest of landscapes. To the right rose the path which led to the summit of that most majestic of Apuan mountains, the Pania della Croce and to the right the lower, but no less magnificent summit of the Pania Secca (dry Pania not only because of its extremely rocky contours but because water in limestone country tends to hide itself undergound.) At our feet the valley of the Turrite found a way through the crags and the air was of the most wonderful purity.

Among the audience Maestro Luigi Roni can be recognized with his lordly grey beard and his considerable presence. It seems so unreal that he is no longer with us. Although aged sixty-five at the time of my photo Roni was as sprightly as ever and in excellent health. He had to be to get up to our heights!

The concert in such a heavenly setting was glorious. The young soprano had more than enough breath in her after climbing to the natural amphitheatre we lay in to make a fine show of the medley of operatic arias and traditional songs and her dulcet tones stood out brilliantly against the excellent accompaniment of the brass ensemble.

As the music faded out towards its close so the sunset enfolded the audience in its golden colours  and the mystery of an Apuan night descended upon us.

Everything must pass. This is life’s tough lesson which has to be re-learnt time and time again because we never quite believe it. For who knows where the time goes? That is the eternally unanswered question. All I know is that we have been privileged to be member of the audience at the concerts Maestro Roni has organised as part of his ‘Serchio delle Muse’ summer festival. Majestic cathedrals and the remotest of mountain chapels, town squares and village greens have all echoed to some of the most inspiring music thanks to his  efforts.

Together with his friends and admirers I take my hat off to this great man of our valley of the Serchio. Departed from this earthly life he lives on in our memory of the most exquisite music. We must be ever thankful that that we are fortunate enough to have enjoyed the generous patronage of true gentlemen like Maestro Luigi Roni.

A Marsvellous Holiday…

We’ve booked our holiday for next year and it’s going to be full of amazing sights.

We enjoyed visiting volcanoes in Italy (Etna and Vesuvius) and Bali (Agung) but the ones that are on our itinerary are going to be even more extraordinary. In fact we’ll see twelve huge volcanoes some of whose names we’ve already memorized: among them Ascraeus, Pavonis and Tharsis Tholus. They are all around 25,000 metres high (that’s over 82,000 feet high or almost three times the height of Mount Everest!)

However, the most extraordinary volcano we’ll see is Olympus Mons, which is to date the highest mountain discovered in our universe at a height of almost 90,000 feet!

Now don’t think we’ll have to do much climbing to reach the top as the slopes of these ‘shield’ volcanoes are very gentle, even more so than Etna so we’ll have special solar-powered vehicles to take us to the summit.

If we are going to reach for the heights then we’re also going for the depths for Mars has some incredible canyons. On our itinerary is the Valles Marineris which is 1850 miles long, a good four times the length of the Grand Canyon which I visited a few years back. Here I am at the bottom of that one.

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I promise I’ll post a shot of me at the bottom of this one.

We hope to visit the polar regions and maybe do a spot of toboganing on the extraordinary ice caps there.

There’s also included a bit of history in our journey as we’ll visit the landing places of past visitors. As for nature there will be a trip to rocks that have some primitive molecular life forms on them.

There’s so much more to see, like the ‘ghost dunes’ in the Hellas basin but we’ll be more than content to witness sunrise over Mons Olympus.

Seeing (in real time) the Falcon 9 lift-off last week plunging into darkest space made us particularly excited to look forwards to our holiday.

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My wife has been a fan of galactic entrepreneur Elon Musk, for quite some time.

I’m equally a fan of Claire Elise Bouchet, alias Grimes, Musk’s new partner and very original musician and artist.

Sadly however, these fantasies regarding our next holiday may mean that the nearest we’ll get to space travel is the non-passenger experience on our Piccadilly line tube train. a couple of days ago…plenty of space there!

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But wait…haven’t I been to Mars before? No, it was Mongolia back in 2008 and a real dead ringer if there ever was one!

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