La Principessa del Popolo

Twenty years ago a lady, who to many still remains close to their hearts as the Princess but who to others is regarded as someone who almost destroyed  the British monarchy,  was killed as a result of a sequence of bizarre events in a car crash in the Alma (= soul) tunnel in Paris. (Since our own accident last May we have a double fear of tunnels – I should add)

I was present both at the celebration of a marriage that  in 1982 raised the spirits of the country but in which, at the same time, the heir apparent was hard put to define what ‘love’ was. The birth of the two princes followed.  The wife had done her duty as a producer of heirs to the royal lineage and in subsequent events was separated, divorced and even stripped of her title of Princess of Wales.

By the time Diana was dead the popularity ratings of the British royal family was at an all-time-low and (although constitutional rules forbade it) the Queen was reluctantly forced to raise the flag at half-mast over her London residence.

Of course, Diana did destroy much of the perception of the house of Windsor but it was a necessary clearing out of the dusty panoply of grey men, of arthritic protocol, of buttoned up upper lips and, to put it mildly, of generations of secretive hypocrisy.

The light of Diana shines through her two sons William and Harry who, despite the inexcusable trauma of having had to walk behind their mother’s coffin, are now able to talk about their experiences with a moving devotion  to their mother’s love and memory.

(I remember at the time of the funeral the sight of little William and Harry and the comments of so many of the people lining the processional route murmuring, ‘poor little boys’.)

I am not a fervent royalist although I would not like it if the UK became a republic. I make no apologies for what I wrote on this day twenty years ago. Sentimental it might be but re-reading the poems now still captures for me the extraordinary outpouring of a nation’s grief, the fields of flowers, the Hindu Arathi candles placed on the Victoria monument, the dignified sadness of walking down a traffic-free moonlit Mall, a sense that someone who had done more in changing attitudes to British emotional sangfroid than she could ever have known, had gone but, at the same, had left something that would change public perception of royalty, and even society, for ever.

 

THE MORNING

  

Outside the Palace I stood with gladness

waiting for the open landau to pass;

good will touched people with a light caress

lacking difference of culture or class.

 

What is left of that day now? Betamax

video still plays back the scene

innocent of the mistakes and attacks,

the wedding album of what might have been.

 

I woke up early on that strange morning,

switched on the radio to hear faithless news.

Just once before felt I this sudden sting,

my mind was mute for who could I accuse?

 

The stark, unforgiving Sunday headlines:

Diana and Lover Dead and still the sun shines.

 ***

 

THE FUNERAL

  

You stayed at home for you could take no more

and I found your place in nation’s mourning:

silent crowds with flowers come to adore,

in clear blue sky and a sun-filled morning,

 

the passing of a princess that entranced

our lives and the country’s sudden-found heart;

a beautiful, rose-cheeked woman who chanced

to lace with love every downtrodden’s part.

 

The gun carriage moves toward the high arch

where we had our wedding photos taken;

the dignified tread of soldiers’ slow march

as world of each mourner is forsaken.

 

I, too, can take no more and, cut to bone,

burst into tears as I pick up the phone.

 

 

 

 

Diana followed the great line of female regal humanisers whose names include Mary, wife of William of Orange and Princess Alexandra, (similarly traduced by her husband king Edward VII). All of them broke through the heartlessness of a stilted monarchy to become truly the people’s princesses – and who has the cold-bloodedness to deny the fatal fantasy of these icons of British history and memory?

 

More on Castelfranco Veneto

I’ve already mentioned our second visit to Castelfranco Veneto magnificent walled town at https://longoio3.com/2017/08/20/a-giorgione-beauty/ .  I promised more photographs of this highly attractive north Veneto town. So here they are for your delectation.

Hope you can make it there one day, even just for the fabulous Giorgione painting in the Duomo:

Notice also that in the height of the Italian tourist season you can come across quiet places. The worst mistake for any traveller to Italy is to hit such places as Venice and Florence in the height of summer. Not only are they intolerably hot but they are massively crowded and overpriced. Choose autumn or spring for these towns. Place like Castelfranco Veneto; however, can be enjoyed at any time of the year .We ate rather well at the Torre restaurant at Pizzeria at Castelfranco, just by the walls. (Although I’m sure you’ll find several other equally good places to eat.

Note also the opening hours for Giorgione’s house (which contains further of his works).

 

 

How Italian News Media Regard UK Society

British items on Italian RAI TV and newspapers are few and far between. Certainly the brexit fiasco is causing the UK to feature more on Italian TV media. Brexit is, of course, a heaven for all Euro area inhabitants as they can get a good twenty per cent more for their money as the pound sinks lower into the abyss created by misinformation and British pig- headedness.

Is it no coincidence that the epic ‘Dunkirk’ film will be on general release by the end of August? Brits seem to glorify in good losers rather than extol winners – Scott over Amundsen, for example – and it’s not just their own losers they praise: witness the Queen’s special medal given to Italian Olympic marathon runner Dorando Pietri in 1908 for losing on a technicality. This is perhaps because Italians are not good losers. It’s in their nature to be first in everything possible – rather difficult during the country’s continuing economic doldrums. That’s why Federica Pellegrini’s win in the 200 metres free-style in the recent world swimming championships was an occasion for triumph, even triumphalism. (It was a pretty sensational win, I have to admit).

Other Italian news items from a group of northern islands they consider highly eccentric (and now highly masochistic) involve the British royal family. Just wait in your doctor’s surgery here and you can easily pick up a magazine with enough stories from her Maj, William, Kate and Will and the rest of the post Saxe-Coburg bunch to fill a year’s regal gossip. That’s also thanks to the Italians’ narrowly missing keeping their royal family in the referendum in 1946. (54% percent for a republic against 46% for a monarchy – almost Brexian in closeness.)

Last night yet another news item cropped up on RAI and it was a subject very close to Italians – that of the wearing of crucifixes on one’s persons and the display of Christ on the Cross in schools and public institutions. This was the case of a white baptised Christian five-year old girl placed in foster care with a Muslim family who immediately stripped her of her crucifix neck chain.

She was then told her that her religious feasts, Easter and Christmas, were rubbish and they even denied the poor girl her favourite dish of spaghetti ‘alla carbonara’ because it contained bacon.

Things became worst when the poor girl couldn’t understand a word her Muslim foster family was saying to her and was told to learn Arabic.  Being taken out for shopping with a fully burkhaed foster-mum didn’t help either.

When finally rescued from being ‘converted’ within a strict orthodox Muslim family the girl was said to be in a state of extreme distress

The authority in charge of the fostering, Tower Hamlets, hasn’t a very good record in its social services but surely it must have realised that the little girl should have been adopted by a family closer to hers in culture and ethnicity. Tower Hamlets refused to comment on the situation. That’s not surprising from a body that is incapable of realising that multi-culturalism is dead and that integration involves more a situation of ‘when in Rome do as the Romans do’ (or, as St Augustine stated in 390 AD ‘… Romanum venio, ieiuno Sabbato; hic sum, non ieiuno: sic etiam tu, ad quam forte ecclesiam veneris, eius morem serva, si cuiquam non vis esse scandalum nec quemquam tibi.’)

The questions to be asked in this abysmal case – which in some respects must be regarded as child-abuse by the health services of a local council – are these:

  1. How can Tower Hamlets have enrolled a strict orthodox Mohamedan family as fosterers? Fostering families should have firm standards but certainly not strict dogmas. And surely is there a not- negligible connection between the extremer forms of that religion and enrolment as a jihadist.
  2. What were the circumstances that led the five-year old girl to be fostered? And did the girls’ parents have no say in the choice of the family to foster her?
  3. There are many more white family fosterers than black family fosterers in London. In fact, there is a majority of black children being fostered in white families. So why, in this case, did Tower Hamlets choose to foster a white child with a black fosterer who is supposed to be in the minority?
  4. There are further cases involving giving daily help and care to the elderly in the UK. A friend told me that her mother actually refused to open her front door when confronted on the other side by someone she described as a bundle of black cloaks and hoods. Why don’t health workers wear a defined uniform and display a badge which clearly defines their work status so that older people, not used, like younger people, to exotic clothing, are not alarmed? I was further informed that the carer wore her clothes for religious reasons. Carers should wear clothes for professional purposes, not for religious display. Is the UK really a secular society?

The little girl’s case was reported extensively both in Italian RAI TV and on the talk-shows which predominate on the Italian medium. All the case did was to encourage fear of mohamedanism as a religion, add fear to those brought up in western cultural and religious values, especially Roman Catholicism which, while not as extensively practised as in previous times is part-and-parcel of Italian cultural values, and, ultimately, to ridicule not only the inefficiency of Tower Hamlets but also the weirdness and misdirection of British society.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dancing on the Walls of Lucca

CONCERTS ON LUCCA’S WALLS

SPAM! GOOD ART IS HEALTHY presents Live Dance Club, dance concerts on the walls of Lucca. The events, organised by ALDES / SPAM! in collaboration with Barga Jazz, Casermetta San Salvatore, the Opera of the Walls and with the patronage of the Commune of Lucca, will be held in Casermetta San Salvatore on the Walls of Lucca from 30 August to 20 September beginning at 9.30 pm. During the four evenings, great instrumentalists will alternate between innovation ​​and tradition, from jazz to afro beat, bebop to New Orleans polyphony, blues to Latin, and engage audiences in new dances.

On August 30 there’s the Afro beat Classical Orchestra.

Its thirteen elements will feature Fela Kuti, inventor and exponent of African Afro beat, one of the most influential African personalities of the twentieth century, “SHARE YOU Fela goes classical” tribute.

ENTRY € 5, 00

FREE ENTRY for under 18

During the evenings one can dine and drink at the Casermetta S. Salvatore

For those who would like to dine at Ristoro La Casermetta booking is strongly advised (limited number of tables) by phoning: 0583.462206 and 389.7669769

Info: info@spamweb.it

Tel. 342 0591932 – 348 3213503

Wednesday, September 6 is the second event with the participation of DIMITRI GRECHI ESPINOZA DANCE TRIO

Nicola Venturini – sax

Hammond – organ

Piero Perelli – battery

ZAM MOUSTAPHA DEMBÉLÉ TRIO ON THE WALLS OF LUCCA

On Thursday, September 14, the third event will take place with the participation of ZAM MOUSTAPHA DEMBÉLÉ TRIO.

Zam Moustapha Dembele – bass / balafon / percussion

Paolo Sodini – guitar

Filippo Guerrieri – Keyboard

Donald Renda – percussion

ORGANIC GROOVE TRIO ON THE WALLS OF LUCCA

On Wednesday 20 September there’s the fourth and last event with DANCEJAM and ORGANIC GROOVE TRIO.

Guest artist Alessandro Rizzardi sax
Luca Giovacchini – guitar
Pee Wee Durante – organo
Matteo Sodini – percussion
open jam session

 

 

 

 

Montagnana’s Magnificent Walls

Why are there so many magnificent fortified towns in the Veneto region? In our previous posts we’ve mentioned our visits to Castelfranco Veneto, Monselice and Este, quite apart from the several others we’ve seen but not yet written about.

The answers are easy to see. The Veneto region lies at the crossroads of three major invading powers: the Saracenic, the Hapsburg and the north Italian Visconti and Sforza. Venice itself, it will be remembered, was founded on the natural defences of lagoon islands by fleeing refugees as a protection against invading goths. When Venice developed and expanded its maritime republic, its outposts away from the seashore needed to have equally strong defences – especially if they were situated on a vast flat alluvial plain with no protective hills on which to perch fortifications.

It would be difficult to say which are the finest fortifications in Veneto but the detour to Montagnana suggested by guests from that same town was more than worth the extra time added on our journey.

Imagine an almost Disneyland-like walled mediaeval town and there, in Montagnana, you have it for real.

It’s no wonder Montagnana, part of the Venetian republic until 1797, was never conquered!

Enclosed in a quadrilateral 600 by 300 metres, giving a perimeter of two kilometres, Montagnana’s walls are clearly not as extensive as Lucca’s but they are much older, dating from the fourteenth century and, thus, before the development of firepower changed the whole logistics of city fortifications.

Montagnana’s walls are eight metres high and a metre thick and are fully battlemented, so that archers could protect themselves from one arrow launch and the next. Every 60 metres there is a tower around 19 metres high. There are 24 in all! Encircling the walls is a vallum, or moat, over 30 metres wide, much of which is still filled with water from the river Frassine.

Within the walls are launching areas for catapults, armament storage depots and accommodation for the military. There are even extensive vegetables gardens, essential for withstanding a long siege.

Even if the invading forces managed to get anywhere near the magnificent Montagnana walls they would have had to go past four outer bulwarks and, if that wasn’t enough, wade through malaria-infested swamps and flooded fields.

Entry to the town is through the gates of San Zeno castle, controlling the route to Padua, and the Rocca degli Alberi, controlling the westward route to Verona. Later gateways were opened much later when the railway was built…

We didn’t have much time to visit the town enclosed within these superlative walls. But it looked architecturally rich with fine palaces and glorious churches, some of which contained paintings by such greats as Veronese.

I think we’ll definitely have to return to the area for there is still another extraordinary walled town we have to visit, Cittadella.

I’d never imagined such glorious wealth of walled towns in the Veneto region of Italy. I should have known better of course. After all who hasn’t delighted in such places as Verona and Padua? The difference here, however, is that the walls stand clear in their own ample ground, (rather like Lucca) and are not smothered by later accretions.

O for a time when the ultimate development in defence technology were such things. Could there possibly be anything approaching such beauty when talking about nuclear bunkers or missile stations

Wonderful Lucca Music Scene Continues after Summer

MYSTICAL TRAVEL WORLD WITH “LA VISIONE DI MELIA”

After the great success in 2013 of the IL SOGNO DI MELIA and VIAGGIO DI MELIA DEL 2015, on Saturday 2 September at 9 pm there will be staged in the charming setting of the Cloister of St. Micheletto – Lucca, IL SOGNO DI MELIA (THE VISION OF MELIA), an original show interpreted by Paola Massoni, which is the third of the ‘Sinesthesia’ trilogy based on the experiences of Ninfa Melia. In addition to soprano Paola Massoni, singer and actor, as well as author and composer, the performance will have on stage many musicians, dancers and high-class performers from Lucca and Tuscany. The experimental, fully enriched, music program consists almost entirely of Paola Massoni’s compositions, written specifically for the “Vision” and some unmistakable passages from the great classical music of Luporini, Saint Saens and De Falla, some arranged by Marco Cattani, presented by the author, and accompanied by a classical orchestral ensemble (strings, winds, piano) conducted by Carlo Bernini and accompanied by an electronic section by Max Guerrero, with a Chamber Choir children’s voices and the dance ensemble directed by Elisa Giovannelli and Michela Giannelli who will enact a scenario animated by light-shows and video projections directed by Emiliana Paoli.

Free admission

GRAZIANO POLIDORI AWARD

On Sunday 3 September at 5.30 pm in the church of Colognora di Pescaglia there’s a vocal concert in honour of Graziano Polidori, the lucchese baritone. The event, organized by Gabriele Viviani, a baritone of international fame, is a ‘thank you’ for what Viviani himself calls “his only teacher of all time, which made his worldwide fame possible.”

The concert, organised with the collaboration of Angelo Frati of the Museo del Castagno di Colognora and the municipality of Pescaglia, includes Gabriele Viviani, tenor Stefano la Colla, soprano Francesca Maionchi and Ilaria Cassai as well as Graziano Polidori’s piano students.

“LUCIANA PARDINI” SILVER PLATE AWARD TO YOUNG ORCHESTRA CONDUCTOR BEATRICE VENEZIA

On Sunday, September 17, at 5.30 pm, at the Sala dell’affresco, in the San Micheletto complex (LU), the “Alfredo Catalani” Circolo Friends of Music is organizing the nineteen year of “In Sogno“ where the Silver plaque “Luciana Pardini” is awarded

Recognition is awarded annually by the circle to young talents both in the lyrical, instrumental and cultural field, in memory of Luciana Pardini, a member of the circle who died prematurely.

The 2017 edition of the prize is awarded to the young pianist and composer, conductor of the Lucchese orchestra, Beatrice Venezi, who conducted Puccini’s ‘La Rondine ‘with such panache at Torre Del Lago this season.

The award ceremony will be followed by a recital, with soprano Eleonora Contuci and baritone Francesco Samuele Venuti.

Sabino Lenoci journalist, musicologist and editor of Opera magazine introduces the evening.

As usual, the event is free.

For booking (preferred) – please call 347 9951581

THE FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF LUCCHESE POLIFONES IS CELEBRATED

On Sunday, September 24, at 5.30 pm in the church of San Michele, there’s a concert for S. Michele organized by Polifonica Lucchese.

With this event, the town choir directed by Egisto Matteucci will celebrate 50th anniversary of its foundation. Giacomo Puccini’s 4-voice Mass with orchestra and the Mottetto for St. Paolino are programmed. Entrance with free ticket. Participants will be offered a brochure about the 50th Anniversary of Lucchese Polifonica.

 

 

 

 

The Jewel that is Este

The family is Italy’s nucleus and the history of Italy is essentially the history of its greatest families: among them the Visconti and Sforza of Milan, the Savoia of Piedmont and the Medici of Florence.  One of the greatest families is that of the Este which are particularly associated with Ferrara and its greatest representative Duke Ercole who brought that city to a pinnacle of art and culture rarely equalled even in Italy.  The ‘prince of music’, Josquin des Prez, for example was one of the court’s musicians!

However, before moving to Ferrara the family had established itself in its namesake town of Este. It was only in the thirteenth century that the Este moved south to escape from the growing power of the Venetian republic.

Este is full of memories of this noble family; no greater, perhaps than in the gigantic castle which dominates the old town. The Castello Carrarese is basically a quadrilateral of imposing walls enclosing some delightful gardens and a keep on top of a motte.

In our search for a suitable place to refresh ourselves we alighted at a Chinese restaurant opposite the walls where we ate exquisite Cantonese food. The proprietress from Shanghai (which we had visited last year) had been a resident of Este for over seventeen years and loved the place. She decried the demolition of the old Shanghai she knew and felt very happy in living in an Italian town which had preserved that human scale so ruthlessly being destroyed in the exploding new Chinese megalopolis.

There is a lot more to visit in Este apart from the magnificent walls. There’s a gorgeous array of churches: in particular the elegant Duomo with a magnificent Tiepolo showing Saint Tekla saving the town from the plague. There are wonderful palaces including one transformed into a museum showing the roman origins of Este.

As usual, we had a timetable to keep else I’m sure we would have lingered in this beautiful town for much longer; I especially admired the old clock tower, the quaint arcades and the town’s magnificent civic square.

As with the finer Italian towns Este has its fair share of famous/notorious visitors to it. Lord Byron and Ugo Foscolo were especially drawn to it.

How dismal it is to have to keep to appointments. They are truly the manacles to one’s liberty. I would have loved to have lingered longer in this delicious town. Yet there was still one more extraordinary place to visit. Visitors from Montagnana dining at the Chinese restaurant said we would regret for ever the chance of not visiting their own home town which was just a few kilometres distance. They said that even Este’s walls paled with comparison with their own. This was a dare we couldn’t resist taking. So on to Montagnana!

 

Italy’s Most Picturesque Town According to Ralph Waldo Emerson

Visitors to Italy always make a bee-line from Bologna to Venice, thereby missing out some of the country’s most exquisite towns en route. Padova is increasingly recognised as a worthy neighbour to ‘La Serenissima’, especially with regard to its Giotto frescoes, Saint Anthony’s tomb and the fascinating historical centre. We described Padova (Padua in our post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/05/11/why-dont-all-bankers-behave-like-this/ et sequitur.

To the south of Padua are the lovely Euganean hills sung by Shelley in the midst of which is the house where Petrarch lived his last days. This is also described in my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/30/italys-second-prize-winner-for-best-village/

There’s a lot more to feast the eye if one wanders a few miles off the Ferrara- Padua autostrada. One of the places we looked at was Monselice described by the great American transcendentalist Ralph Waldo Emerson in his journal of 1833 as

the most picturesque town I have seen in Italy. It has an old ruin of a castle upon the hill and thence commands a beautiful and extraordinary view. It lies in the wide plain – a dead level – whereon Ferrara, Bologna, Rovigo, Este, Padua stand and even Venice we could dimly see in the horizon rising with her tiara of proud towers. What a walk and what a wide delightful picture. To Venice 38 miles.

We didn’t actually walk to Venice – our little Panda car took care of that nor were we able to climb the castle as all we stopped at Monselice for was for a bite to eat – singularly unsuccessfully as there wasn’t a place open! All closed for the holidays… However, we could easily see why Emerson loved the place. The town’s almost deserted streets with little porticoes shading one from the relentless noon-day sun were supremely picturesque. Monselice surely deserves a lot more time than we gave to it. Next time we’ll want to climb to the top of the castle keep crowning a perfect volcanic hill and appreciate the view that so enthralled Emerson. We shall also visit one of Europe’s finest armoury collections at the Castello Cini, the Romanesque church of Santa Giustinia, the Seven Churches Sanctuary by Palladio’s pupil, Scamozzi, with paintings by Palma il Giovane and also the Villa Duodo another of Scamozzi’s most original works.

However, we were keen to fill our stomachs and our recent peregrinations took us to two further towns, Este and Montagnana, which completely magicked us – but that must take up another post or two to describe those quite astonishing places.

 

 

 

 

Great Job Opportunities in Italy

Vittorio Sgarbi, Italy’s maverick art critic is quite correct when in a recent interview he stated that his country, supposedly with one of the highest youth unemployment figures in Europe, has in fact over 200,000 job vacancies for them. What’s more these vacancies come with board and lodging included, free holidays, ample clothes allowance and a beautiful artistic building not just to live in but to carry out one’s work. All training is free of charge and is accomodated in wonderful ancient buildings with some of the world’s finest libraries.

The job vacancies themselves carry status and respect. They are attractive to non materialists and humanitarians and, what’s most important today, none of them carry zero hour contracts. They are, indeed, jobs for life.

This type of job has such good conditions of service that it is attracting thousands from other countries, especially south asia and africa.

What is this job shunned by the majority of unemployed italian youth?

Why, a career as a priest in the Roman Catholic church! Of course, Sgarbi is being a little tongue in cheek about all this but he does have a point. Italy’s great artistic heritage with its wealth of glorious but unmanned churches needs to be protected and there is an alarming  shortfall of priests to do this.

‘Manned’ is the problem. Churches should be womaned too and the profession, or vocation, as it more aptly is called, needs to fight against gender discrimination which was only adopted in the fourth century.

If not priests then catholic deacons can marry so even that little problem can be circumvented.

Don’t let’s us pray for more vocations. Let’s advertise them boldly and stop italian youth going abroad to earn their daily bread. Now am I becoming a little Sgarbian too in my idea?

Ps If you like to travel and love the simple life then why not become a Franciscan friar? For those preferring more solitude then there’s nothing to beat becoming a Carthusian monk.

And if you’re not sure if God exists or not take up Pascal’s wager. He says believe in God. If God exists then you’re fine. If he doesn’t you’re still ok. After all by keeping to the ten comandments and loving your neighbour you’ve still led a worthy life on this planet.