First-Rate Second-Hand

The second-hand market, or ‘mercatino dell’usato’, is thriving in the Lucchesia with several outlets in the area.

Two of my favourites are ‘Mercatopoli’ in the Arancio area of Lucca. Their website is quite well organised with a list of items on sale and can be found at:

https://lucca.mercatopoli.it

The other is the ‘mercatino dell’usato’ which can be found near the straight stretch of road leading into the city from Bagni Di Lucca. Its web site is not so brilliant and is at:

Home

It’s best just to turn up and see what wonders are found in this veritable Aladdin’s cave. Here is a random selection of things we chanced upon yesterday stored in the cavernous holds of this ex-factory:

 

 

As can be seen there’s everything to be found here and most of it is adequately organized (apart from the clothes section which is a dismal jumble – although my wife managed to find a couple of attractive items.)

The mercatino (little market) is really a mercatone (big market) and one could happily spend some hours bargain-hunting in it. I was particularly drawn to the outside salvage section with garden furniture and various house fittings.

Italy does not have  a panoply of charity shops such as can be found in the UK but it more than makes up for this with its mercatini. These bric-a-brac depositories can also be useful if one is moving, down-sizing or just getting rid of superfluous clutter: one takes one’s stuff to the mercatino and agrees a selling price. The shop adds its own commission and the longer the item remains unsold the lower its price becomes.

I try to de-clutter from time to time and the mercatini certainly do help!

Madness comes to Lucca

Robin was an exemplary pupil in my secondary school. Never late for any lesson, always with his homework completed and never in any way disruptive in the class he was the very model of a good student. We, others, were the somewhat wild lot and our form teacher, in desperation, would point Robin out to us as the way we should aspire to behave and learn at school.

Many years later, when many of us managed to obtain a university education, start a career and get married, I visited Robin in Cane Hill mental asylum. Two years later he was dead because of some incorrect medication given to him. The mental asylum has since been sold off by the National Health Service and, as in the case with so many other similar institutions, is now converted into luxury flats.

What does this prove? Perhaps that madness is an expression of repression which seeks out alternative views of the world where life has never found a secure safety valve. Anyway, for too many to call someone ‘mad’ is an easy opt-out clause to use if that person cannot be fathomed.

Vittorio Sgarbi, the eminent Italian art critic, historian, cultural commentator and one-time mayor of the Sicilian town of Salemi, has been described as mad by several of his critics because of his frequent public outbursts but, at least, Vittorio uses these tantrums as a release from the often impossible situations he find himself entrapped in.

All forms of madness are similarly attempts to escape from impossible situations when the door seems shut. Ironically, however, the door is, indeed, shut – in many cases for life – despite liberalization though the Basaglia law passed in 1978 when Italy became the only country (so far) to abolish psychiatric hospitals. (Does it show with regard to some of the people one meets in the street here?).

Vittorio Sgarbi is a prodigious curator of highly idiosyncratic exhibitions. We remember his selection of paintings displayed at Milan’s international exhibition of 2015 and described in my post at

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/09/11/sgarbi-con-garbo-at-expo-2015/

There was an equally memorable show when we visited Trieste a couple of years ago.

As cultural commentator, Sgarbi has some pretty weird ideas too, as described in my post at:

https://longoio3.com/2017/08/22/great-job-opportunities-in-italy/

With special mention of Lucca’s former lunatic asylum at Maggiano, which we visited (as tourists, I hasten to add) and described in my post at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/01/23/luccas-very-own-snakepit/

Sgarbi’s disturbing exhibition entitled ‘Il Museo della Follia’ (Museum of folly) at Lucca’s ‘cavallerizza’ (stables), on until this August, is well worth taking in – if you can take such things, that is.

I recently visited the ‘Museo’; I don’t wish to introduce too many spoilers here; I’ll just say what for me the highlights were:

Francis Bacon’s self-portraits:

Antonio Ligabue’s post-naive paintings:

Sketches of patients in the former Maggiano mental ‘structure’:

This evocative painting of women at Florence’s own psychiatric institution at San Salvi:

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The pleading letters of inmates assuring the authorities that they are now sane and can be released:

The extraordinary explosively-lit, ‘grill’, wallpapered with almost nose-less photographs of inmates:

Stereoscopic glimpses into the former electro-therapy quarter of Maggiano hospital:

And plenty more to drive one somewhat crazy (if one isn’t already).

What is significant in all this is that the definition of whether someone is mad or not still has little consensus in medical science. Tobino’s 1953 book on the inmates he supervised as head psychiatrist at Maggiano mental hospital is entitled ‘the free women of Maggiano’. However, these wretched females, entrapped in an ex-convent on the Luccan hills and with separate male and female quarters, could hardly be described as ever truly having been free today.

Indeed, currently we are as far from true freedom of expression as ever before. As William Blake put it in his poem on London: ‘in every cry of every Man, in every Infant’s cry of fear, in every voice: in every ban, the mind-forg’d manacles I hear.’ In each generation new definitions of freedom are formulated, often so far from that natural freedom which is the rightful inheritance of every human on this planet. The concept of freedom is, indeed, defined by the ideology of those who control us. They can tell us whether we are ‘free’ or not: indeed, whether we are ‘mad’ or not.

In this respect, Sgarbi’s exhibition arouses many disturbing thoughts and connections in the minds of all who dare to visit it. If you are in Lucca you should drop in to view it before you drop out…

 

 

 

An Evening of Joy and Beauty in Lucca Cathedral

Take one of the finest youth choirs in the UK, place them in one of Tuscany’s most glorious cathedrals, Lucca’s San Martino, and hear them singing a wide repertoire ranging from renaissance through baroque to Britten and one has all the ingredients for a lovely evening of music, full of joy and beauty.

 

Taplow Choirs was founded in 2004 by Gillian Dibden and Philip Viveash as a centre for local singers and to bring together children and adults wishing to build their singing skills. They have become a centre of singing excellence in the area.

There are four Taplow choirs: children’s choir, boys’ choir, girls’ choir and the youth choir.

The Taplow youth choir, formed in 2006, currently has seventy five members, aged between 15 and 18. It was awarded BBC Radio 3’s “Youth Choir of the Year” in 2008 and won the prestigious ‘Music for Youth’ award in the same year. The choir participated in the International Choral Competition in Tallinn, Estonia, in April 2009, and won 2nd prize in the Youth category. Regular visitors to the Windsor Festival, the choir also sings Evensong in St. George’s chapel, Windsor castle every year. It participates in the young singers program with the Gabrieli Consort, and has performed Mendelssohn’s ‘Elijah’ with the Consort at the Royal Albert Hall.

The choir’s Music Director, Gillian Dibden, has a long career in music, especially working with young people. In 2009 she received the MBE for her work with young people and children’s choirs. We were able to meet Gillian after the concert and she felt that this year’s choir intake was one of the best she’d had. We fully concurred.

Every other year the Taplow youth choir goes on a European tour and this year it was Italy’s turn to be feasted by their singing. Florence and Siena  follow on from Lucca where the concert in the Cathedral formed part of the “Music in the Cathedral” series of events.

Here, in Lucca cathedral, is a snippet of the choir singing that sweet Henry Purcell anthem ‘Rejoice in the Lord Alway’. The cathedral’s accoustics lent themselves particularly well to this anthem.

And this piece, ‘Ave Virgo Sanctissima’ by the Spanish Guerrrero, shows how well the choir  performs renaissance polyphony:

This section from Faure’s consoling requiem was most affectingly sung:

It’s rare enough to hear one of my favourite composers, Gerald Finzi, in the UK; to hear him in Italy is really special. “Come Away, Come Away, Death” (the words are from Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night) is the first item in Finzi’s song cycle ‘Let Us Garlands Bring’ composed in 1942 for Vaughan-Williams’ 70th birthday. The highly bizarre note intervals are a real challenge to any singer but the soloist did pretty well, I feel.

The Allegri ‘Miserere’  is the piece that fourteen year old Mozart heard during Holy Week and wrote down entirely from memory. It was beautifully performed with the famous stratospheric sections sung from the cathedral pulpit by a select group from the choir.

Here are the concluding items in the wide-ranging repertoire the Taplow Youth Choir sings

It’s somewhat unfortunate that the audience was rather less than the forty members of the choir, despite very widespread publicity. There were clearly more British in the audience than Italians, although Elio Antichi, director of one of Lucca’s most notable choirs ‘il baluardo’, was present and was astounded by the quality of sound from such young singers. Perhaps Monday night is not a very good weekday for a concert in Italy.

However, I am quite sure that Florence has received this lovely choir with much greater presence. Youth choirs from the UK have truly much to teach their Italian youth counterparts.

(For other concerts in the “Music in the Cathedral” series of events see http://www.musicaincattedralelucca.com/).

PS In the UK I studied the Javanese court gamelan orchestra with distinguished teacher Nikhil Dally. I learnt about the concert through him; his daughter is an alto in the Taplow choir on its Italian tour.

 

Ways to spend Easter-Time in the Lucchesia

Question: What to do over Easter if you’re around Bagni di Lucca? Answer: plenty!

My own selection (at present!) would be as follows:

April

17th

At Bagni di Lucca. Via Crucis. Traditional Good Friday procession

18h

At 21.00 ‘Processione dei crocioni’ at Castiglione della Garfagnana. Re-enactment of Christ’s Via Dolorosa procession with Last Supper, Kiss of Judas, flagellation and Cross-bearing chained and barefoot white-hooded local as Christ. For more about this incredibly evocative manifestation see my posts at

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/03/26/feet-washing-and-cross-carrying/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/04/18/the-passion-according-to-castiglione-di-garfagnana/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/03/31/passionate-events-in-tuscany/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/03/25/a-passion-evening-in-castiglione-della-garfagnana/

21st

Pasqua (Easter Day)

As the Italian saying goes: ‘Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi’ (Spend Christmas with your family and Easter with who you like).

22nd

Pasquetta (Easter Monday).

A traditional time in Italy for excursions, walks, cycling, perhaps even seaside Easter is so late this year.

How about this event?

Marlia, Villa Reale. All day. Botanical treasure hunt. (Specially for children but adults will find it amusing too). Discover new plants and flowers and enjoy the royal villa’s gardens.

25th

Giorno della liberazione. Italian liberation day. National holiday. It’s liberation day in Italy from the axis powers. Perhaps there might soon be a liberation day in the UK from brexitism?

27th

Lucca piazza dell’anfiteatro. Festa di Santa Zita. Flower market in celebration of Lucca’s patron Saint, Santa Zita. For more about this delightful festival and the sweet story of Saint Zita see my posts at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/04/30/from-flour-to-flowers-festa-di-santa-zita/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/06/02/four-great-luccan-spiritual-women/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/04/27/iced-up-in-lucca/

https://longoio3.com/2018/04/27/luccas-saint-zita-converts-flour-to-flowers/

28th

At 15.00 Fornoli parish hall. Tombola (otherwise known as Bingo).

May

12th Messa di Maggio (May Mass) at 11.00 at the Convento dell’Angelo, Ponte a Moriano. Singers from Accademia di Montegral directed by Gustav Kuhn. Shuttle service from Ponte a Moriano car park (behind theatre) at 9.30 returning at 12.00

For more on Easter time at Montegral see my posts at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/04/02/an-angels-monday/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/04/21/easter-morning-on-the-mountain-of-the-holy-grail/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/04/06/our-way-to-spend-easter/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/03/28/how-we-spent-our-easter-2016/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/17/mshiha-qam/

https://longoio3.com/2018/05/16/stereo-tipi-choir-shine-on-holy-grail-mountain/

***

PS

For those of you unable to attend Bagni di Lucca’s Spring Jazz concert packed Chiesa Anglicana here are some photos of the event plus some video bits:

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https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=KqmWJpAUNWI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Lovely Visit to Lucca’s Green Walls Garden Festival

Last Saturday was a perfect day to enjoy Lucca’s Verdemura garden festival. It’s now in its twelfth year and is bigger and better than ever before. I was glad I went on that day as Sunday had rather somewhat dull and drizzly weather.

The hippie axiom ‘make love not war’ is singularly appropriate when dealing with Verdemura as the show is laid on the top of Lucca’s classic defensive walls, now over five hundred years old. Where there were cannons there is, instead, an encampment full of flowers and colour.

Lucca’s walls are the second major example in Europe of walls built according to the principles of modern fortification, taking firepower into consideration,  that have been preserved completely intact in a city. They are two and a half miles long and took from 1504  to  1648 to build. There are eleven bastions or bulwarks. (The walls of Nicosia, Cyprus, hold the record with a length of  three miles, also with eleven bulwarks).

 

The walls were designed as a deterrent and were never taken in anger. They did prove useful, however, when the Serchio flooded and their new ruler, Elisa Bonaparte had to be hoisted over them from a boat. Even today, after heavy rainfall the area encircling the walls tends to be flooded and a temporary moat is created.

The garden festival is centered around the Porta Santa Maria and extends to two bulwarks, Santa Croce and San Donato.

Here is a selection of photos I took of this year’s brilliant show. Were you there?

 

 

It’s Green Walls Time for Lucca Again!

Lucca’s walls are special because they provide a beautiful tree-lined walk on their wide expanses. As poet D’Annunzio wrote Lucca is:

‘La città dall’arborato cerchio’, (‘the city of the tree-lined circle’.)

Twice a year the walls become even greener because of the garden festivals they host. In Spring the festival is held on the northern part of the walls and is called ‘Verdemura’.

 

The festival started yesterday, Friday, and will continue until this Sunday, 7th April. I visiting it today and I’ve been told it’s bigger and better than ever before.

There are more than 200 Italian and foreign exhibitors: from garden centres thousands of different  horticultural species, shrubs, bulbs, tools and garden furniture for both flower and vegetable gardens, handicraft products and excellent food, all in the wonderful setting of the walls of Lucca.

In addition, there are talks and demonstration on all aspects of gardening.

Opening time is 9.30am  to 7 pm.

Weather-wise it should keep fine. After two days of storms bringing much-needed rain to a parched earth things should be really sprouting out now.

I’ve written several posts on Lucca’s garden festivals. Here are some of them if you want to read further and see more photographs.

Lucca’s Green Walls

Green Fingers on Green Walls

Incidentally, I don’t have to go to Lucca to see staggeringly lovely flowers. At a friend’s house in Lucca I came across these green-fingered specimens:

 

PS Lucca’s walls are the ones to go for….not the Mexican variety!!!

 

 

 

 

 

How did you spend your Christmas?

Christmas Eve promised fine weather for the important date to follow:

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And, indeed, Christmas morning opened with gently warm rays of sunshine which continued throughout the day. No bleak mid-winter here!

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I’d accepted an invitation for Christmas lunch in Lucca.

First I made sure my cats got their festal breakfast. Carlotta seemed particularly pleased.

I then made my way to Bagni di Lucca’s railway station. Happily, in Italy most trains still run on time, even on December 25th!

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The Serchio River below the Ponte Della Maddalena (I don’t like to call it ‘il Ponte Del Diavolo’) still shows how little rainfall we’ve had this autumn, despite the recent rainy days.

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It was lovely to be in Lucca and the Christmas lunch prepared by my hostess was wonderfully traditional and included turkey, sprouts, roast potatoes and yorkshire pudding. We couldn’t find any cranberry sauce in the city but the American apple butter made an excellent replacement!

We were also joined by four sweet mutts – my hostess was dog-sitting for two of them.

Dessert was my hostess’s cheesecake and my Madeira, which I’d baked at home that morning.

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We pulled our Christmas crackers, read their characteristically lousy jokes (e. g. ‘Why did the golfer wear two pairs of trousers? In case he got a hole in one!!!’), wore our paper crowns and exchanged presents (which included chocolates, biscuits and a beautiful little crystal angel).

I could not have wished for more excellent company and more delicious fayre. For an afternoon I felt there was a corner of Italian Lucca that had become a lovely old-style English Christmas…

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NEW YEAR’S EVE BUFFET AND CONCERT

Monday, December 31st, starting at 8.30 pm, the GRAN CENONE DI SAN SILVESTRO will take place at the Teatro del Giglio (tenth year) with music and entertainment, aperitifs, buffet dinner, Christmas cakes and champagne by “Lazzeroni Catering srl”.

From 9 pm to 10.15 pm there’s a  GRAN GALA LIRICO organized by “PUCCINI AND LUCCA” with Deborah Vincenti, Silvia Pacini (sopranos), Giovanni Cervelli, Mattia Nebbiai (tenors) accompanied on the piano by Diego Fiorini. The program includes music by Giacomo Puccini, Giuseppe Verdi and others.

From 10:30 pm to 11:30 pm OSMANN GOLD SWING ORCHESTRA presents “From Glenn Miller to Hollywood”, a journey through the world of Swing of the ’30s,’ 40s and ’50s.

Music by Glen Miller, Duke Ellington, Frank Sinatra and many others.

From 11.45 pm to 01.30 am there’s a further concert titled “TRIONFO DI VALZER, Gran Gala Lirico Sinfonico” with soprano Francesca Maionchi and tenors Nicola Simone Mugnaini and Giovanni Cervelli. Special Guest Star: Meme Lucarelli (guitars and various surprises).

The Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra is conducted by Andrea Colombini. Music by Puccini, Johann Strauss Sr. and Jr., Verdi, Lehar and many others.

Admission (including buffet and concert events):

Stalls and first tier boxes – € 130 / second and third tiers – € 95 / galleries – € 90

Admission without buffet from midnight only: € 50 (no discounts)

Discounts available for residents from Lucca and its province inclusive of dinner and show.

 

Reservations at info@puccinielasualucca.com or infoline340 8106042 (but with confirmation from the Teatro del Giglio for numbered seats assignments)

or

TEATRO DEL GIGLIO – 0583 465320 (during booking office opening hours)

 

TICKETS ALREADY AVAILABLE – LIMITED NUMBER OF SEATS – BOOK NOW!

Learn About Giacinto Scelsi

PIANO RECITAL OF MUSIC BY GIACINTO SCELSI

On Saturday, November 10th at 7.30 PM, in the Tenuta Dello Scompiglio at Vorno (Lucca), Fabrizio Ottaviucci performs an “8-8-88 la porta dell’infinito” (“the door of the infinite”) piano recital of music by Giacinto Scelsi, on the thirtieth anniversary of the composer’s death. The program includes Suite IX, Ttai (1953) and Suite X, Ka (1954) both composed in the central period of Scelsi’s life and inspired by metaphysical concepts.

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(Giacinto Scelsi, 1905 – 1988)

The first piece (“Pace”) relates to the movement of time. The second (“Essenza”) is based on variations on the answers to this question.

The recital is part of the “Della morte e del morire” (“Of death and dying”) theme presented by the Associazione Culturale Dello Scompiglio, with director and artist Cecilia Bertoni, in the performance space of the Tenuta di Vorno (Lucca).

From September 2018 to December 2019, there’s a packed programme of exhibitions, performances, concerts, workshops, residencies, scientific meetings and discussions and activities for children, focusing on an individual’s relationship with death.

The event includes winners of an international competition for artists in every artistic aspect. This involves over five hundred projects – alongside the creations and productions of the Compagnia Dello Scompiglio, meetings, exhibitions and guest shows.

If you are unfamiliar with Scelsi’s music then I am not surprised. So was I. His true worth has only recently been rediscovered and bears several similarities with that of the amazing English composer John Foulds (1860-1939). Among these are:

  1. An interest in oriental music. Scelsi’s favourite singer was the Japanese artiste Michiko Hirayama.
  2. The use of microtonal compositional tecniques.
  3. An awareness of the second, serialist, Viennese school.
  4. A life passed in scandalous neglect of his genius.

It is always an exciting moment when, just as you think you are pretty aware of western classical music, a name crops up that makes you reconsider its sonoral galaxy. Scelsi, for me, has changed the face of twentieth century Italian music just as much as John Foulds has altered my perception of English music.

For more info see the Scompiglio web site at http://www.delloscompiglio.org/ or phone  0583 971125

Cluster Contemporary Music Festival 2018

MUSIC BY GEORGE CRUMB FOR VOICE AND PIANO

After its great success last year Cluster’s second Music Festival is devoted to music of our time. There’s a calendar of seven events open to the public (organized through four afternoon weekends. All this is through valuable collaborations with other important Italian cultural organizations: the Puglia Region, the International Robotics Festival of Pisa, Torre del Lago’s Puccini Festival, Lucca and Massa Carrara’s FAI delegation, ”Il Baluardo” choral group ” and the Cinema Circle of Lucca. This is without forgetting the commissioning of eighteen new compositions by Cluster members to be heard during this Festival. It’s all free admission thanks to the contribution of the Banca Del Monte di Lucca Foundation.

Saturday, October 20 (Oratorio S. Giuseppe – 5 pm) there’s a concert entitled “Crumb portrait” with Maria Elena Romanazzi, singer and Raffaella Ronchi, piano. The concert is organized in collaboration with the Puglia Region and includes famous pieces by George Crumb and Cluster members Francesco Cipriano, Andrea Benedetti and Girolamo Deraco.

(Composer, pianist and Cluster Festival Promoter Francesco Cipriano)

CONCERT – HOMAGE TO FOUR RECENTLY DECEASED ARTISTS

Sunday, October 21 (Oratorio S. Giuseppe – 5 pm) Cluster will pay tribute to four recently deceased artists, who have been associated with Lucca. They are Claudio Josè Boncompagni, Daniele Lombardi, Fabio Neri and Joseph Vella. Ilaria Baldaccini will perform piano music by these composers as well as unpublished pieces, composed for the occasion by Francesco Cipriano and Girolamo Deraco.

YOUNG COMPOSERS IN THE LIMELIGHT

Saturday, October 27 (Church of St. Catherine – 5 pm) there’s a concert organized by young Cluster composers with the participation of the Yugen Ensemble. The event, organized by Stefano Teani, is organized in collaboration with the FAI delegation of Lucca and Massa Carrara.

SAX AND VIBRAPHONE IN SANTA CATERINA

Sunday, October 28 (Church of St. Catherine – 5 pm) there’s a concert by Alberto Cavallaro (saxophone) and Federico Tramontana (vibraphone). The event is organized in collaboration with the FAI delegation of Lucca and Massa Carrara.

LUCIO GREGORETTI’S CONFERENCE ON FILM MUSIC

Saturday 10 November (Conference Hall of San Micheletto – 5 pm) there’s a conference on film music with Lucio Gregoretti.

At the end a short film will be shown on the fairy tale of Pinocchio where the characters of the cat and the fox are acted by Ugo Gregoretti and Andrea Camilleri. Music is by Lucio Gregoretti

ELECTRONIC MUSIC CONCERT

Sunday 11 November at the Baluardo dei Balestrieri (in front of the Villaggio Del Fanciullo) at 5 pm there’s an electronic music concert organized by Cluster members. It includes compositions by young Cluster musicians written especially for this festival of contemporary music.

PIANIST EUNMI KO CONCLUDES THE FESTIVAL

Saturday, November 17 (Oratorio di S. Giuseppe – 5 pm) the Korean pianist Eunmi Ko will conclude brilliantly this Festival of contemporary music with a major recital.