In 1842, the ruler of the duchy of Lucca, Carlo Ludovico di Borbone, granted the English colony of Bagni di Lucca the right to found a protestant cemetery. A place called “al Prato Santo” (‘At the Holy Field’) was chosen on the opposite side of the river Lima and the graveyard was opened in 1844. It was in use until 1953 and there are one hundred and thirty seven individuals who rest there. In 1982, with the end of a legacy destined for maintenance, the cemetery was purchased by the Municipality of Bagni di Lucca. It is now managed by the town’s Michel de Montaigne Foundation and the Lucca Historical Institute.
Among those buried here, often with monuments made by renowned sculptors such as Benjamin Gibson, Giuseppe Norfini and Emilio Duccini, are the sister of the President of the United States of America Stephen Grover Cleveland, the writer ‘Ouida’, Henry and Elizabeth Stisted (the founders of Bagni’s Anglican church) and the Irish entomologist Alexander Henry Haliday.

For those of us who prefer the romantic view of a cemetery as a place of decay with gravestones decomposing under a jungle of ivy and other creepers, a place haunted by bats and crows, a symbol of life’s ultimate futility and a site of melancholic and solemn reflections it might seem a contradiction to appreciate these ancient tombs restored, oxymoronically, to new life and I have often felt this way. However, I am now resigned to the fact that the aim of Bagni’s De Montaigne cultural association is to restore all the monuments it contains to their pristine glory. This is because in addition, to the names of the graves’ occupants the restoration has given fresh remembrance in the form of those who not only have munificently funded their renovation but also in the fact that several of the sepulchres have received a second dedication to recently deceased inhabitants and visitors to Bagni di Lucca. Thus, some tombs may have a triple dedication: the original occupant, the person who has given funds to restore it and the new dedication to a departed lover of Bagni di Lucca. Some even have a further association as the name of the tomb’s restorer is also mentioned. Sadly, in one case this has meant a fourth remembrance since the restorer in charge of the iron railings of several of the tombs recently died prematurely aged forty.
Last Saturday, 5th September, at the English cemetery of Bagni di Lucca in the aureate sunshine of a late September afternoon, five newly restored funeral monuments were inaugurated, raising the cemetery’s restored monuments to fifty five.
(Prof Marcello Cherubini, director of the De Montaigne Foundation and Bruno Micheletti of the Bagni di Lucca branch of the Historical Institute, the two principal organisers of yesterday’s event)
The renewal of one funeral monument was dedicated to the memory of Tony Bareham, protagonist of the Montaigne Foundation’s international conferences of the and himself a benefactor of the cemetery since he provided funds for the restoration of the writer Louise de la Ramée’s, (better known by her nickname of ‘Ouida’) monument. Bareham dedicated this restoration to the memory of his wife who had died a few years previously. This circumstance shows to perfection how one tomb can receive associations well beyond its inhumed dweller.
Another tomb was reinstated in memory of Umberto Guidugli, a notary who died of Covid-19. He was a keen visitor to Bagni di Lucca and a supporter and friend of its Montaigne Foundation and the Historical Institute. A third monument was dedicated to all the doctors, nurses, health personnel, pharmacists, volunteers who sacrificed their lives to help those affected by the recent pandemic. Because of this reason, a representative of the Bagni di Lucca committee of the Italian Red Cross was present. Again this shows how supposedly irrelevant monuments from a past and largely forgotten age may be made significant again for our present very troubled age where, once again, we are all suffering under a pandemia as threatening as that ‘Spanish Flu’ of 1918 which killed two of the cemetery’s occupants Nelly Erichsen and Rose Elizabeth Cleveland whose tombs have also been lovingly restored.

Finally, there was the restoration of the Caccia family tomb. Colonel of the Bersaglieri, Mario Caccia was a participant in Italy’s wars of independence and died in Peschiera in 1879. This was a particularly moving moment in the afternoon’s proceedings.

A trumpeter from the famous Italian Bersaglieri troop played the Italian equivalent of the ‘Last Post’ on his trumpet:
Caccia was honoured with the laying on his grave of a small laurel wreath by other bersaglieri all wearing their traditional helmets adorned with black capon feathers.

The proceedings were completed by a delightful concert held in a suitably cooling orchard by the Lima River.
The performers were “Sax off limits”: an ensemble of twenty saxophones from the “G. Puccini” Conservatory of Music of La Spezia. This was the programme:

One of the items, Puccini’s ‘Crisantemi elegy’, has become something of a leitmotiv for Bagni di Lucca’s cemetery. I remember it being played (by a string quartet this time) in the presence of Puccini’s grand-daughter Simonetta who was a keen supporter of the efforts to restore the cemetery and who renewed her love for a town which was equally cherished by her distinguished ancestor.

It was a brave effort to play Beethoven’s potent ‘Coriolan’ overture on saxophones and it was surprisingly well hit off. For me, however, Rossini’s early sonata was a happier choice. There were two very welcome encores: first a trifle of a march called ‘Scossa Elettrica’ by Puccini written to celebrate the centenary of the invention of the galvanic battery:
and second, a Piazzolla tango. As many will know Piazzolla is almost a local lad; see my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/tango-where-astor-piazzolla-originated-from/ to find out why.

This was an idyllic finale held in the lovely orchard by the banks of the river Lima. No better location could have been chosen since these September days have given us a prolonged summer with really hot days. Sitting in the shade under the fruit trees was clearly the best choice!

As ever in Italy strict Covid-19 regulations were in place for this event. Everyone had to wear ‘mascherine’ – surgical masks – and no-one was allowed to move their socially-distanced chairs. Italy, in this ghastly on-going situation has set an example for public events which, alas, is all too lacking in many other countries. I remain truly proud of and feel very safe in this country!

(The presentation by the Bersaglieri of the commemorative laurel wreath to Italian independence fighter Mario Caccia)




































