Infernal Snows

Yesterday it was water, water everywhere and nor any drop to drink! But we were not stuck in the Sargasso Sea surrounded by slimy things that crawled with legs upon the slimy sea. With all the rain and sleet we’ve been having Longoio suffered a burst aqueduct pipe and so we had to fill up our bottles from the local spring. Fortunately Gaia, our water company, proved very efficient and after some drilling the burst pipe was located and duly mended.

In the meanwhile I decided on a morning ride with just a sprinkling of rain to have a look at the snows which have fallen over our local mountains-

The otherwise very green Prato Fiorito, the haunt of Sabbath witches and the graveyard, through its landslides, of at least one village in the past, looked very snowy indeed.

My replacement scooter, this time a Honda after the old Aprilia Scarabeo had finally given up the ghost, managed the watery roads rather well.

The Refubbri river, normally so placid, had turned into a raging torrent with some spectacular waterfalls appearing.

There was a slight hint of sunshine this morning but who wants to go out in this weather now? I’m told that Abetone, our nearest ski centre just under an hour’s drive (or scoot…) away, has received another half metre of snow but regrettably ski centres throughout Italy are still closed as a result of the health emergency.

Which brings me to a very confusing linguistic point. The Italian government is now talking about its ‘recovery plan’, after the pandemic has finally gone away. It uses the term written in English. However, there is a similar sounding word in Italian, ‘ricoveri’, which translates as ‘hospital admissions’ – quite the opposite of the English ‘recovery’. So I never quite know when the news is good i.e. the ‘recovery plan’ is receiving increased funding, or whether the news is bad the ‘ricoveri’ are ever increasing!

I just wish Italians would be prouder of their beautiful language instead of importing foreign terms all the time into news items in the mistaken opinion that these have somehow more ‘authority’. Yes, they use that English word as well instead of saying ‘autorità’. This year it’s the seven hundredth anniversary of Dante Alighieri’s death. The ‘sommo poeta’, who laid down the guiding principles of the Italian language, would surely not have approved. Of course, there’s nothing very funny about the ‘Divine Comedy’ especially when Dante finds himself in the Inferno (now I am using Italian when I should say ‘hell’…but the brits have appropriated themselves in revenge of an Italian word to better describe certain ghastly conditions – like the one the world finds itself in right now). The word ‘comedy’ is used here to mean that Dante is writing in the low ‘vulgar’ or ‘comic’’ language of Italian instead of the high ‘tragic’ classical language of Latin.

The term ‘comedy’ can also mean that this wonderful poem, perhaps the greatest literary work produced in western civilization according to T. S. Eliot (who placed its themes of universality even above those of Shakespeare’s plays) does not, indeed, have a tragic end but rather culminates in that last line expressing the transcendental joy of the love that moves the sun and the other stars:

‘l’amor che move il sole e l’altre stelle.’

It is this line, and other quotes from Dante, which Lucca has sensibly turned into festive decorations for its city as these photos taken by a friend demonstrate.

Now that leads me to consider that my mum had a Dante exquisitely illustrated by John Flaxman, the neo-classical artist.  I wonder where that volume is now.

(Dante meets Beatrice)

 

 

At the Limits of Limano

Autumn, together with Spring, is our favourite time for walks. The summer heat has worn off and, particularly after the solstice of September 21 nature begins to assume a distinctively multi-coloured mantle: the chestnut trees ripen their fruits and the forest floors are dotted with a variety of mushrooms. Here’s a platter of mushrooms we managed to find the other day. Congratulations to my wife for her keen eye in locating the often elusive porcini (ceps).

It’s also a good time to revisit the various villages which comprise our comune of Bagni di Lucca

A few days ago we found ourselves in Limano on the northern side of the Lima River. It’s a delightfully peaceful place spread between two hills with a main square dividing its two halves.

First mentioned in a document of 893 AD as a village under the jurisdiction of Vico Pancellorum it became a feud of the Suffredinghi family and passed under Lucca’s rule in 1200.

We walked up Limano’s north hill and found ourselves before a chapel with a very well-kept garden and some amazingly good stone-work.

This is the oratory of Our Lady of Grace.  Dating from 1684 it is built in local limestone using material recovered from the old parish church which had been abandoned because of a landslide. I suspect this is why the stonework is so good; it may date from the eleventh century at the full height of the Romanesque style. The oratory is accessed through a portico supported by four columns and is covered with slate stone plates.

Inside, the effigy of the Madonna delle Grazie, the venerated patron saint of the town of Limano, is preserved.

We returned to the main square where, on the first of August, near the sixteenth century fountain, a festa with traditional country dancing takes place here.

The participants of the “Festa in Piazza Gave” sing and dance in characteristic costume, marking the occasion when shepherds traditionally came down from the mountain pastures to sell lambs.

In the latter half of the twentieth century the festival declined, but has happily been revived by the “Limano Nostro” association. I’ve said more about these festivities in my post at

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/08/03/country-dancing-in-limanos-piazza-gave/

Limano’s southern hill is steeper than its northern neighbour and proceeds past the parish church of San Martino built in 1776 and renovated in 1908. Unfortunately the church was again closed during our visit but I am told the choir’s decoration, the work of Arturo Chelini, is worth looking at. Maybe next time?

At the top of the hill are the remains of the castle. Most of what’s left of it is incorporated into existing houses but there’s an area where a covered passage gives one a good idea of the former castle’s defences.

It’s near here that a friend has recently purchased a house with great views.

The hills were clothed with heavy mist and it began to rain, the first rain we’ve had for weeks. Autumn has clearly come! The following night came the big tempest – the night was alight with electric flashes and at one point the thunder shook the foundations of our house like an earthquake. I think that as much as the pure blue skies and the sunshine I would miss these dramatically operatic Italian storms if I returned to live in England!

Shepherds’ Delight

A new footpath, the ‘alta via dei pastori’ (the shepherds’ high way), was officially inaugurated at San Cassiano di Controni last Saturday in the presence of a considerable audience. Speeches were made by various key figures in the project including Aldo Lanini of ‘Pegaso trekking’, Roberto Ragghianti of Jurassic Mountain Bikes association, David Bonaventuri, photographer, and Bagni’s Mayor Michelini. Although the Italian habit of delivering a host of speeches inaugurating events can become tiresome I have to say that this time the speeches were very informative and gave an excellent picture of the considerable project which has been finally realised.

 

The noticeboard at the start of the footpath was then unveiled. It’s in both Italian and English (translated by Paul Anthony Davies, professional photographer and major participant in several projects at San Cassiano where he resides). As you can see from the map the footpath is an ‘anello’, or a ring route, which is best done in a clockwise direction. Most of us know the way to the top of the Prato Fiorito – the lovely whale-backed mountain lording it over Bagni di Lucca and the Controneria – from Foce al Lago, where the Cross has recently been excellently restored by local firm, Fontanelli. 1However, the new shepherds’’ highway shows a different aspect of the mountain from the usual picture one has of it as opening out on extensive turfed expanses. In fact, the Prato Fiorito has large tracts of rugged dolomitic rock formation with some very alpine flora indeed.

 

Today, an inordinate amount of rain has prevented us, not only from tackling the Prato Fiorito but also from attending the ‘Palio dei Micci’ at Querceta, one of Tuscany’s major events; a pageantry of mediaeval and renaissance costumes with flag-waving acrobatics from the ‘sbandieratori’ announcing the six-circuit race of the ‘micci’, local dialect term for donkeys. Indeed, the Palio is an elaborate Italian take on the traditional English ‘donkey derby’. Regrettably, the rain washed away one full year of preparations and we could only enjoy the Palio dei micci by viewing the film made by our local station, NOI TV, last year.

Here it is:

The good news is that the Palio dei Micci was only postponed and it will take place next Sunday from 10.00 with the main race at 16.00.

A week of improved weather is promised and, I am sure, we will decide to explore those sections of the Alta via dei pastori’ which we have not yet traversed. A future post will illustrate our trek, no doubt.

In the meanwhile you can read all about the Prato Fiorito, its satanic rites and its inspiration for Shelley in my posts  at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/06/22/bewitching-flowering-meadow/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/07/01/druids-witches-hot-coals-and-a-tug-of-war/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/06/07/the-elysian-fields-of-prato-fiorito/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/witches-sabbath/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/08/a-perfect-shelleyan-day/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/17/if-there-is-a-heaven-it-is-here/

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/05/18/elysium-on-earth/

https://longoio3.com/2018/02/17/an-icy-walk-in-the-appennines/

https://longoio3.com/2018/05/18/bagni-di-luccas-elysian-fields/

https://longoio3.com/2018/06/24/did-lord-byron-vandalise-our-prato-fiorito/

https://longoio3.com/2019/05/01/the-shepherds-high-way/

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We are certainly not going to miss out on the dazzling display of jonquils which are due out this month!

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Pian di Gioviano’s Wonderful Mechanical Crib

 

Italian ‘presepi’, or nativity cribs, may be of three main types.

First, are the various displays of nativity scenes laid out as an exhibition or as an itinerary. In our ‘Valle dei presepi’ there are two especially beautiful examples.

There are the highly creative and inventive ones at Pieve Fosciana, in the upper Serchio valley, which I’ve described at:

https://longoio3.com/2018/01/09/pieve-fosciana-the-land-of-presepi-christmas-cribs/

There’s also the Montefegatesi crib itinerary which I visited last week and which I described at:

https://longoio3.com/2018/12/10/christnas-cribs-here-there-and-everywhere/

Second, are the ‘presepi viventi’  (living cribs) where people re-enact the nativity scene with traditional arts and crafts surrounding the birth of Jesus Christ,  and the arrival of the Three Wise Men.

I’ve described this type of presepe’ in various posts, the latest of which is at:

https://longoio3.com/2018/12/03/a-living-christmas-in-the-appenines/

https://longoio3.com/2018/01/10/living-cribs-at-a-home/

We have taken part in one of the best at Equi Terme several times. To see us dressed up as Roman governors, Wise men etc. do read the posts at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/09/25/of-cribs-and-choirs/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/09/20/midsummer-nights-nighmare/

Third, are those nativity scenes which particularly intrigue me: large-scale mechanical cribs where the figurines move and there are waterfalls, mill wheels turning, saws cutting and olive picking.

I first saw this kind of nativity scene as a small child at the church of san Camillo in Milan. (San Camillo is, incidentally, a fine example of fin-de-siècle eclectic gothicky architecture. I’ve described it at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/09/04/milans-san-camillo/  )

A very fine example of a mechanical Christmas crib is near us at the start of the road that leads to Gioviano at Pian di Gioviano in the comune of Borgo a Mozzano. It is among the most beautiful in the whole province of Lucca and has its origin twenty five years ago, the brain-wave of a couple engaged to be married. Sadly, Manuela Motroni lost her life in 1999 in a traffic accident and the creation of the crib is also a way of remembering her who died so sadly young.

 

Manuela’s brother Manuel with Angelo Cipriani and other volunteers have continued to re-create the crib every year. As you’ll see from my video below a lot of love and time has gone into making this delightful nativity scene. It’s also interesting to note that many of the movements are propelled by water power.

Trust you’ll enjoy my video of this enchanting nativity scene!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Antella: a Picturesque town in the Florentine Hinterland

The little town of Antella has already cropped up in some of my posts. In particular, its fabulous chapel, almost entirely frescoed by Spinello Aretino, is mentioned at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/do-you-know-granacci-or-larciani/

Antella is also the last resting place of Claire Clairmont, who needs no introduction to Shelley lovers. For more information on this essential nuisance in the poet’s life do read my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/29/claire-claremont-the-epilogue/

A few days ago we stopped in Antella’s main square for an ice-cream.

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It was a welcomed stop during an afternoon visiting the delightful countryside surrounding Florence festooned with matured vines, glittering with silvery olive groves and cooled by mysterious pine forests.

It’s a real pity that visitors to the cradle of the renaissance fail to visit the beautiful landscape surrounding the city except, at the most, to reach Fiesole, over-crowded during the season and with by no means the best views over the City of the Lily.

Antella’s main square epitomizes all that’s most liveable about Italy. Just a few miles away from the tourist-crowded streets of Firenze, Antella is another world. In the square different generations mix, play, relax and rarely collide. Old boys play briscola by the local bar. Women meet up for the local gossip. Children play hide-and-seek using the the massive parish church doors, opened out for the evening prayers, as a useful place of concealment.

In the centre stands the statue of a worthy from the town. (Italy’s first prime minister, in fact.)

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The church itself contains a mixture of exquisite pre-renaissance pictures, skeletons of unremembered saints, massive oak beams spanning walls that have endured centuries of wars, floods and earthquakes.

A majestic crucifix of ancient date overlooks the nave.

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Beyond the apse an even older chapel opens out with a handful of the devout reciting the joyous mysteries of the Rosary.

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What I love in particular is the absence of the social divides that plague the provincial English town at this hour. In that ever more fractured land of Brexitania children separate themselves from parents at an ever-earlier age; the old are moved out-of-sight into geriatric institutions or, if lucky and still in their own homes, suffer loneliness and the fear of being mugged if they step outside after 8 pm.

Meanwhile, the young ready themselves to get hyped up for a night of artificial highs of binge drinking and vomiting on pavements while police sirens uselessly try to wake them up, and hospitals become arenas for the victims of fighting and knife attacks. 

However, in places like Antella, such ghastly thoughts and memories of a country, soon to be torn apart from the mainstream of Europe by a ‘will of the people’ fed by lies, ignorance and small-mindedness, seem, thankfully, far away.

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A Pleasant Circular Tour from Longoio

Up to 1965 there were still some working mills in the Fegana valley. Now they have all been converted into private residences or holiday accommodation. One of these mills was restored in 1990 and, until relatively recently, provided not so much B n B but home hospitality as its extrovert host liked to term it.

Here are some views around the mill. In particular note the bridge which has had to be rebuilt no less than seven times because of the river flood waters which have swept previous versions away.

A fine round trip to do either on two wheels or four from Longoio is to go down to Bagni di Lucca and go towards Calavorno but turn right at the big roundabout and head up the very attractive Fegana valley.

There are two main villages to discover: Tereglio and Vitiana. Tereglio is a particularly fine ‘borgo’ stretched along a ridge, possessing a very beautiful church and holding an annual violoncello master class under Sebastian Comberti and Raphael Wallfisch, all described in my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/09/09/the-violoncelli-of-tereglio/

The road one is travelling on forms part of the old grand ducal road, described in another of my posts at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/09/18/foce-a-giovo/

However, for the circular tour one should turn right at the sign for the Orrido di Botri canyon and Montefegatesi. Here it’s possible to stop at the Nido dell ’Aquila restaurant (see http://www.ilnidodell-aquila.com/cms/ ).

From the Nido the road proceeds uphill towards Montefegatesi through a magical chestnut forest. Be warned, however, that the road is from this point mostly unmetalled and can be a bit skiddy in wet weather unless one has appropriate tyres.

From Montefegatesi it’s an easy ride down into Val di Lima to Longoio.

The possibilities of this route are endless. Here are some of them:

  1. A visit to Tereglio
  2. An exploration of the orrido di Botri canyon.
  3. A visit to Montefegatesi
  4. A sortie up to Albereta and a climb to the top of the Prato Fiorito which, at this time of year is full of an intoxicating species of wild daffodils. (See my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/05/18/elysium-on-earth/ for more of this amazing sight.
  5. A walk through the chestnut forest.
  6. A continuation up the grand ducal road to the Foce a Giovo pass and a ramble on the grand Apennine ridgeway path number 00.

Why go on a world tour when a whole miniature world is displayed for you here in the space of just one day?

 

 

 

 

 

The Battle of Sommocolonia

You couldn’t get closer to the feel of what it must have been like in our area during World War Two than a visit to the encampment of allied forces at Villa Fiori last week-end. The historical gothic line re-enactment group were immaculately accurate in their uniforms and the women especially brilliant in their hairstyles and make-up.

For me, however, it was the incomparable range of military vehicles, including the original jeeps and the Moto Guzzi ‘Alce’ (meaning ‘elk in English) in production between 1938 and 1948, and which was designed for military and police use. I have rarely seen, not even in war museums, such flawlessly kept vehicles.

In the casinò there was a preview of a film on the Great War of (for Italy) 1915-8 to be premiered in Lucca this October. This was followed by a harrowing film on the battle of Sommocolonia, the biggest and bloodiest conflict during World war two in our area.

On Boxing day, 26 December 1944, the village of Sommocolonia, near Barga, was the scene of “Operation Wintergewitter”, an offensive conducted on the Gothic Line by the Axis Italian-German forces against US troops (92nd Division “Buffalo”), supported by the XI area partisan under the legendary ‘Pippo’. The US troops were black and under the unreservedly racist command of white American officers. Considered stereotypically lazy fighters, the troops were valiant in this last great battle on the Italian front. Shamefully, however, it was not until the 1990’s that their heroism was at last recognized by the USA.

Photos of the battle of Sommocolonia)

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(Nazi headquarters, interrogation centre and torture chamber in Ponte a Serraglio’s ex-Hotel de Russie.)

There were over 150 casualties among the allied forces (including John Robert Fox, posthumously decorated  with the American Medal of Honour) and 7 victims among civilians including a 6 month old baby, and over 50% of the villages buildings were destroyed by bombing. The last bombs, two Mk2 American hand grenades, were only removed and defused in July 2009.

(John Robert Fox. Posthumous Medal of Honor, 1997)

What was the objective of this German offensive? It’s still unclear although the allied thrust through the Apennines to liberate the remaining part of Italy under the Nazi-fascist puppet government of the Salò republic had to be delayed until April 1945. The Germans could have advanced to capture the munitions factory at Fornaci di Barga, (still in operation today but now manufacturing Euro coins). What was the point of wreaking death and destruction to a mountain village? There are parallels with the Ardennes ‘Battle of the Bulge’ in Belgium which took place at the same time for both operations were only to delay the advance of allied troops and the utter defeat of Hitler’s ‘master race’.

The pity of war, to use poet Wilfrid Owen’s phrase, was fully revealed to us that Saturday afternoon…

Longoio’s Ancient Stones

Walking from our front door towards the hill known as ‘del crocifisso’ because of the cross at its top one comes across some ancient rocks which, although clearly natural outcrops at the path’s ridge, seem almost sculpted by a forgotten race of giants.

 

Rock engravings dating back to Neolithic times have been discovered in other parts of our valley, in particular the area of Monte Limano, and several interpretations have been given to them. Is it possible that this stone has a faint inscription on it?

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Were the stones used for ritual purposes? Did they have a religious use? After all, reading the warning against idolatry in the Bible’s Deuteronomy 4:28 which says “And there ye shall serve gods, the work of men’s hands, wood and stone, which neither see, nor hear, nor eat, nor smell”, it’s perfectly feasible that this could well be the case. In the UK, places like Avebury and Stonehenge had particular significance for those peoples who constructed them, not just for their astronomical alignments but for the actual stone element which formed them.

Sometimes wood and stone combine themselves in a strange forest marriage in our examples at Longoio.

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At the top of the hill is a wooden cross, erected around ten years ago, to replace the one which formerly stood here and which marked the climax of the Via Crucis procession which took place within living memory. Here, was performed the enactment of Christ’s crucifixion in a procession which included flagellants (rather like those I once encountered many years ago in a Shia procession in Basra commemorating the martyrdom of Husayn ibn Ali.)

 

Whatever the why and wherefore of the stones, the hidden memories of forgotten pasts are lost in the mists of time and the Maytime beauty of these woods. The views towards other villages of our Lima valley are marvellous and the greenery around one distils an elixir of absolute peace.

 

 

Nostalgic Boveglio?

How and when did I get to Bagni di Lucca? I first read up about the place in a Collins series guidebook my local library had thrown out. The history of the town fascinated me, especially its connection to a favourite poet, Percy Bysshe Shelley. However, the guidebook, by Archibald Lyall, did describe Bagni as having seen better days (which I still feel it has.)

We’d been visiting Italy regularly for many years, in particular Tuscany. But although we’d climbed such fabulous Apuan alps as the Pania della Croce, Monte Sumbra and the highest of them all, the Pisanino, we’d only passed by Bagni di Lucca station.

In autumn 2001 I hired a scooter and we visited Pinocchio land at Collodi. Sandra had already been there before we married.

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Here are some photos of our first visit to Pinocchio park together.

 

 

We thought our visit would end at Collodi but decided to venture further up the valley and eventually reached a village called Boveglio. I was impressed by its fortified, mediaeval atmosphere and the idea came to me to look for a place to buy there. A house was pointed out to us by a local as being for sale although there was no sign to say so.
Its owner was a lady who lived in Livorno. We arranged a meeting and were shown around the property. There was a small kitchen, a smaller bathroom, two little bedrooms but the house had a large main bedroom above an equally large living room, attached to which was a small boudoir. There was a low attic, half a cellar and a tiny garden. To get to both the garden and the cellar one had to step outside the front door and go round to the side of the house.

 

At sixty thousand euros with a good exchange rate (then) the semi detached house seemed a bargain.

I returned to Boveglio again at Christmas time. The house needed a test run and the owner allowed me to carry it out. I’d also got a short contract to interpret at a conference on the voluntary sector at Lucca’s town hall. I was really keen on experiencing what it would be like to live, and not just holiday, in Italy.

It was a steep learning curve. When I returned in December the weather had turned really cold and the house had only a small electric fire to keep me warm. I remember turning on my laptop to put it under the blankets and heat up the bed. To get to work in Lucca I needed to catch two buses, the first at 5 am. What was really spooky was that the village, although quite large, seemed almost deserted.

Fortunately, I had some neighbours, a coupled retired from an expat life working in Belgium. There was also a bar with a public phone.

One day I decided I’d go over to visit Bagni di Lucca. There was no bus service from Boveglio to Bagni (and there still isn’t) so I went on my scooter through the iciest roads I’d known. It was then that I first saw the astonishing Prato fiorito.
Not much was happening at Bagni. There was a juggler and a crib display but locals told me this was the first time the council had set up anything special for Bagni. I slipped badly off the steps of the town hall and made my way back to Boveglio in the darkening gloom. The following day the snowploughs were at work.
What happened about the house? I didn’t buy it. Although it had some nice features, including two large rooms, attractive views, an extensive balcony and some elegant bits of furniture (although how much of it would have remained is a different matter) I’m glad we didn’t buy it. The house didn’t have a garden one could step into directly from the building, there were too many wobbly floor beams to replace, there was the usual demarcation problem with the neighbour who occupied the other half of the property, transport to the main centre of Lucca was erratic, there was no public service to Bagni di Lucca and every summer Boveglio suffered from a severe water supply problem. Furthermore, the house wasn’t exactly quiet since both its front and rear area were bounded by a main road. Lastly, the valley approach to the village was filled with paper mills, some of which could have counted as fine examples of industrial archaeology but all of which emitted unpleasant smells.

In short, Boveglio didn’t tick all our boxes. Our present place in Longoio, although not perfect, ticks many more boxes and it’s now twelve years that we have chosen it as our rural italian residence. Boveglio, however, is looked back with a certain degree of nostalgia. We were seventeen years younger, more innocent about Italy, and certainly more ingenuously happy.

PS. The pictures of the house were taken with our very low resolution Kodak EZ camera which introduced us to digital photography.