The Last Princess Demidoff


My name is Maria and this is my grave where I was buried in 1955, the last Demidoff princess.

 

That name may be familiar to you, especially if you know Bagni Di Lucca where, in 1825, my grandfather, Prince Nicholas, built a hospital for the poor who had come there in search of a cure from the healing thermal waters. The hospital, with its miniature pantheon of a chapel, is still there and now used by the global village.

My family made their fortune from iron and steel. The first Demidoff, Demid Antuf’ev, was a smith from Tula in Russia and invented a gun which was adopted by Tzar Peter the Great for his army and used successfully to ward off a Swedish invasion of Russia. (Tsar Peter’s visit to Woolwich dockyard in London, where he learned how to build effective fighting vessels, also came in useful).

By the nineteenth century our family had become the second richest in Russia after that of the Tsar. If anyone today thinks we simply exploited our country’s serf to build our wealth they are wrong. My forebears did much for health and education in my country, founding several schools and hospitals and giving grants to Moscow university. In addition Prince Nicholas was appointed ambassador to the grand duchy of Tuscany and that’s how my Italian connection began.

My husband, Simon Amabalek Lazarev, became a noted archaeologist but tragically was killed in 1917 in the October revolution, leaving me a childless widow for the remainder of my life.

DSCN4639.jpg
Our wonderful palace in Florence’s Novoli quarter was badly damaged in the last war and had to wait until 2012 to be restored and converted into flats. Meanwhile, I needed to find a new home and found it in the park of the former Medicean villa at Pratolino.

Of the score of country retreats built by the Great Medici dynasty of Florence Pratolino was the grandest. It was surrounded by formal gardens built along a central axis on which were placed the huge colossus of the Appennines by Giambologna:

DSCN4504.jpg
The fountain of Jupiter:

DSCN4709.jpg
And the statue of the river Mugnone.

DSCN4672.JPG
Francesco Medici, a curious and scholarly person, (rather like my poor Simon), adorned the villa’s parkland with a thousand wonders all centred around the theme of flowing waters. There were fountains which formed watery pergolas, water flowed over the colossus, there was a sequence of ponds which were used as shrimp nurseries, a lake of lilies and, underneath the villa itself, a maze of decorated grottoes and hydraulically powered automatons.

 

Alas, it was this miraculous water that proved the undoing of the most beautiful of all the Medici villas. In 1821 the building was dynamited as it was decided by the dynasty succeeding the Medici, the House of Lorraine, that the damage caused to the foundations by the water flowing through them was too expensive to repair. The rubble was used to fill in the prawn ponds and the original formal park layout converted into a landscape English garden more in keeping with the new romanticism and certainly easier to maintain.

It was in 1872 that my family bought what was left of this park of wonders. They converted the service buildings into their summer villa and added a stately salon.

 

This is where I spent the last stage of my life. Every afternoon I would be driven round my estate to make sure that everything was in order. If I came across children from the adjoining village I would distribute candies to them and It was behind the chapel, built by Buontalenti in the sixteenth century and one of the features still remaining from the original park layout, that I requested to be buried.

 

I am happy that people still remember me, for every year, on my birthday, the priest and choir from Florence’s Russian orthodox church come to my tomb to pray and sing for me.

  1. 8aab54de9683178f336de761651cade7

A Commemoration of a Great Lady

In 2012 Bagni Di Lucca held a poetry competition on the subject, (appropriately for a spa town) of healing waters. The organiser was Carla Guidi and the president of the judging panel was Valeria Catelli. I sent in two entries and found that each poem had been given a prize. Valeria’s reasons for the awards was very sensitively analysed. As is often the case, the critic reveals unsuspected details in a creator’s work.

For over ten years I have contributed, as part of the teaching staff, to the Bagni Di Lucca branch of the University of the Third Age. When Fabio Lucchesi retired as the branch’s director Valeria Catelli succeeded to the post.

Quite unexpectedly Valeria sadly died last year. In her memory a newly restored gravestone in Bagni Di Lucca’s historic protestant cemetery was dedicated to Valeria last Sunday.

The ‘cimitero inglese ‘ was looking at its best in the late summer sunshine.

The ceremony was followed by a quartet and vocal recital in the town’s library, the former Anglican church.

DSCN4391~2.JPG
This was the programme:

DSCN4377~2.JPG
The quartet played with passionate elan. I was particularly taken by the Boccherini piece which was intensely dark-hued.

DSCN4394~2.JPG
The afternoon was, I felt, a fitting tribute to an exceptionally fine teacher, a great contributor to our town’s cultural milieu and a lady I have been very privileged to work with.

DSCN4379~2.JPG

Jeeps, Jags and Joy at Fornoli

The late summer vintage car gathering in Fornoli, combined with a crafts market, is one event that I truly look forward to. It’s now in its second year.

DSCN4306~2.JPG

There is nostalgia for a time when traffic jams were occasional, when children could sit between their parents on one continuous front seat, when seat belts were unknown, when the AA man on his motorcycle and sidecar saluted you as you drove past him, when gears were changed in the steering column, when dickey seats opened up out the rear boot….ah I could go on.

One car at the event which sums up quite a few of these images was the Triumph Roadster 1800 dating from 1946 and appearing  in the TV series ‘Bergerac’. Designed for the US market, (hence its name – a roadster is what Americans call a two-seater sports car) the car, a remodelling of the firm’s pre-war Dolomite, has a largely aluminium body because of post-war steel shortages and is the last to feature dickey seats. Performance isn’t exactly its best feature (it can barely touch 80 mph) but its appearance remains quite impressive. Only around two thousand came off the assembly lines and Italy has three of them.

Here is a selection of other vintage vehicles at Fornoli last Sunday for lovers of older cars to spot. Note the Citroen DS (pronounced Deese i.e. Goddess in French) with its pioneering hydropneumatic suspension, disc brakes and futuristic looks, the Alfas, the Fiat 1100s, 600s and 500s (we still miss ours, crunched up in 2017), the MGs, the Jaguar, Jeep and other delightful and elegant specimens when cars were still being designed and assembled by humans rather than computers.

At the end of the morning the stirring rumble of vintage engines filled the air as the procession of cars set off for their proud owners’ lunch. What devotion has gone into making these cars look still wonderfully young while we….

Elici’s Musical Magic

The picturesque pieve (parish church) at Elici spreads its Romanesque architecture on a truly romantic spot.

DSCN4290~2.JPG

We reached it when it was enveloped in the soft pink of a fading sunset and admired the extensive views sweeping down from the Apuans to the coastal plain of Versilia which here are splashed by the waters of Massaciuccoli lake.

DSCN4291~2.JPG

We were early for the last chamber music concert of the summer season but a queue had already formed outside the main portal. On a previous occasion, when we heard a ravishing Messiaen quartet for the end of time, the venue was in the courtyard of the church. This evening, however, due to weather uncertainties, we were seated inside the building where the temperature approached the sauna levels I had only recently experienced in London’s central line tube trains.

This was the concert programme:

SERGEJ KRYLOV violino
EDOARDO MARIA STRABBIOLI pianoforte

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756-1791)
Sonata n. 26 per violino e pianoforte in si bemolle maggiore (Bb major) K.378
Allegro moderato
Andantino sostenuto e cantabile
Rondò. Allegro

Johannes Brahms (1833-1897)
Sonata per pianoforte e violino n. 1 op. 78 in sol maggiore (G major)
Vivace ma non troppo
Adagio
Allegro molto moderato
* * *
César Franck (1822-1890)
Sonata in la maggiore (A major) per violino e pianofort
Allegretto ben moderato
Allegro
Recitativo-Fantasia: Ben moderato. Largamente con fantasia
Allegretto poco mosso

Krylov is a muscular player with an extraordinary technique and very much in the Russian tradition. He was a friend of Rostropovitch, has spent much time in Italy and is chief conductor of the Lithuanian Symphony orchestra. Strabbioli, too, is a formidable performer and I felt the two matched each other perfectly.

DSCN4295~2.JPG

It would be churlish to criticise such a high quality recital. I felt, however, that the balance in the Mozart unduly favoured the Steinway piano. The Brahms, composed by the shores of an idyllic Carinthian lake and overflowing with melodies distilled in the purest honey, was rather more balanced.

For me, however, the Franck, suffused with composer’s late life passion for the Irish -French Augusta Holmes (herself a fine composer and the mother of these charming children painted by Renoir) took the laurel. Krylov and Strabbioli fully revealed the cyclic structure, immense flow and virtuoso writing (especially for the piano) of this, one of the repertoire’s greatest violin sonatas.

the-daughters-of-catulle-mendes-at-the-piano-1888-pierre-auguste-renoir.jpg
The performers let rip in the two encores: Falla’s fire dance from ‘la vida breve’ and one of Bartok’s Rumanian dances. Indeed, the whole evening was so riveting that I entirely forgot the high temperature and the hard church pew.

 

Special thanks are due to my friends who invited me to come with them to Pieve a Elici.

Incidentally, the web site, ‘luccamusica’, displaying concert events in the lucchesia and for which I have edited the English language section, has, this year, been purchased by Andrea Colombini, famed for his Puccini concerts in the city’s baptistery. It is now fully operational and, together with the AML (Lucca Musical Association) site, is quite informative about music events around here. However, it is always essential to Google round and about as neither guarantees a comprehensive listing.