September is the most important month for Lucca; the ‘Luminara’, the great religious procession of the Holy Face commemorates the crucifix, traditionally supposed to have been carved by Nicodemus and bearing Christ’s features. This year the candles adorning the city’s streets were substituted by LEDs to some disappointment. However, attendance and the spectacular fireworks finale were as good as ever. To know more about the Luminara do read my post at:

Lucca by Candle-Light

The other important event commemorated in September is the liberation of the city of Lucca from fascist-nazi oppression. On the fifth of the month Allied forces entered inside the walls of Lucca and, last Sunday, we were privileged to meet one of the soldiers who was a member of the army freeing the city seventy five years ago.

Ivan J. Houston has written about his experiences in “Black Warriors: The Buffalo Soldiers of WWII,” the Second World War’s first Black combat team under the 92nd Infantry. He says of the Lucchesi:

“These were white Italians and we were black Americans, but they made us feel like heroes. We were never treated like that in our own country where we were still second class citizens.”

Ivan was amazed to find that the holiest image of Lucca, the Holy Face, has a black complexion.

We met up at San Giusto di Brancoli and were taken round the fortifications of the German defensive Gothic line. We visited bunkers, tunnels and look-out posts around Monte Pittone.
Ivan Houston’s division arrived in the area of ​​Morianese and Brancoleria on 15 September 1944. The Allies found strong resistance from the Nazis at the entrance to the Serchio valley in the bottleneck created between Monte Pittone and Piaggione, Monte Castellaccio in Aquilea and the Monte dell’Elto in Domazzano, in front of defenses from which the enemy could cross-fire and control all forces entering the valley. These clashes continued until September 19, 1944 when the Allies managed to break through the enemy lines and conquer these strategically placed hills, helping to free Bagni di Lucca.

We returned to San Giusto just in time to welcome Ivan Houston.

We joined the procession to the church where a most moving ceremony took place honouring Houston and remembering all who died in the campaign to free this part of Italy. We were so glad to meet the youthful 95 year old veteran who has since become an icon for afro-americans wishings to progress in the world of business.

The buffet lunch was up to the high standard expected in Italy.

We visited the interesting collection of uniforms, armaments, military equipment and photographs housed in the newly opened museum.

The day was truly memorable and we are thankful we were able to be present in the company of a soldier who fought that we might be free today.