Postponed from the previous Sunday because of the torrential rain Pieve di Monti di Villa’s ‘presepe vivente’, or living crib, almost seemed destined for another deferment or even a cancellation because of the atrociously wet weather we’ve been having continuously since the end of October. Certainly, I didn’t feel keen to visit the presepe: the louring skies were truly menacing.

Pieve di Monti is only about four miles as the crow flies from Longoio but it’s over twice that distance by road. That’s because, from Longoio, one has to go down winding roads to the Lima valley, proceed to Ponte and then ascend to Pieve di Monti di Villa. There is an alternative route via Montefegatesi but that route is often subject to landslides and, with the current weather, is not a good bet.

Something about Pieve di Monti di Villa which normally commands beautifully extensive views towards the Apennines: (Not last Sunday though!)

The village first appears on maps in the eleventh century and was called Villa Terenzana, the name deriving from Terentius, an ancient Roman landowner. A standard golden handshake for retired Romans who had served in the legions was to be given land and the foundation of several villages in our area is due to that custom.

The village developed in the middle Ages around the castle of Villa Terenzana and the parish church of San Giovanni Battista. With the population increase in the nearby village of Monti di Villa, its name was changed to Pieve di Monti di Villa. In 1833 it counted 227 inhabitants.

Do not think that these villages were inhabited by mute inglorious Miltons. I’ve pointed out in previous posts that many have given birth to noted persons like naturalist Antonio Vallisneri (from Trassilico) and composer Nicolao Dorati (from Granaiola). Pieve di Monti di Villa was the birthplace in 1855 of a distinguished explorer, Adamo Lucchesi.

Lucchesi studied at Lucca’s Seminary and, aged sixteen, set off from Genoa for Argentina. In Buenos Aires he worked on a river boat on the Paraná, Uruguay and Paraguay rivers, and explored the virgin forests they traversed. He also explored the Alto Paraná region and, in 1883, discovered the Guairá waterfalls.

Returning to Lucca in 1906, Adamo devoted himself to philanthropic initiatives such as the “Giuseppe Mazzini” school (commemorated in the plaque below) and an institute for emigrants which provided them with a basic education that would allow them to avoid becoming mere labourers.

In 1936 he published “In South America – Alto Paraná and Chaco. 1875-1905” describing his expeditions. Adamo Lucchesi died in 1940.

Like all the villages in our area Pieve di Monti di Villa has its fair share of beautiful buildings. Foremost among them is the Pieve or parish church.

Dedicated to Saint John the Baptist it was founded in the twelfth century, rebuilt in 1446 and again between 1760 and 1776. It has a single nave and transept, and preserves the apse of the original medieval building. The bell tower was rebuilt in 1892.

Inside the church there’s an organ by Domenico Matteoni dated 1776 and a set of crystal chandeliers from the 17th century.

At the entrance of the village, to the right of the fountain, is the sixteenth century Palazzo Gabrielli. A member of this family was Paolo Gabrielli (1832-1908) who emigrated to London, and became a pupil of the exiled founder of modern Italy, Giuseppe Mazzini. As part of the presepe’s display, the villa’s elegant living room was an excellent place to demonstrate the art of weaving using the loom.

There are also the ruins of the Castle of Villa Terenzana but I was unable to locate these.

Despite the disappointment of poor weather and the consequent reduction of visitors Pieve di Monti di Villa’s presepe was beautifully presented. Indeed, the day kept dry while all around Pieve it rained. A miracle perhaps?

Traditional craftsmen displayed their skills whether it be in carding wool and stuffing mattresses, or interleaving rush chair seats or grinding maize or repairing shoes or threading baskets or sharpening knives or making new brooms: all activities which, until a few years back were regularly carried out in the village:

There was even a old village school class with children learning the alphabet by singing a song:

Food and drink was abundant: I enjoyed a sausage sandwich and in the local osteria had a glass of mandarin punch.

Music was supplied by a guitar and accordion duo.

(Sara and Brunello)

The steep cobbles were spread with sawdust in several sections since the wet weather had made them so slippery.

I did not stay, however, until the evening to see Mary and Joseph arrive with the baby Jesus and occupy their places in the stable, followed by the Three Wise men. It was becoming too dark for me to get back home. Here, however, are some pictures of the event taken by a visitor who stayed on.

(Photo Courtesy of Sonia Massei)

Well done to Pieve di Monti di Villa and its enterprising inhabitants! The mountain villagers were not discouraged by the gloomy weather but put their best into making this event truly entertaining and a wonderful way to inaugurate the Christmas season.