If, during the current strange times, anyone requires some tips on social distancing then some advice may be had from hermits. These reclusive folk in the pursuit of some higher spiritual aim have found themselves beautifully lonely spots in woods, mountains, islands and, in a few cases, on the top of columns.
The only problem that hermits have, however, is that when knowledge of their sanctity becomes diffused people rush to their solitary spots and, in some cases, build churches, hospices and even cities. Poor Simon Stylites, who lived atop a column in the Syrian Desert (not much peace there today, sad to say) had to contend with an increasing bevy of tourist shops and religious sightseers surrounding the holy column.
This surreal story is recounted in Luis Bunuel’s 1965 film ‘Simon of the Desert’. I wrote a poem about this theme some years ago:
THE STYLITE
I see you’ve had a guard rail placed
around your column top.
Now you no longer have concerns
of falling down that drop.
Fresh chicken wire protects your head
from pigeons’ aimless splash
while scarlet flashing light above
prevents an aircraft crash.
Around your base a town has grown
with shops and inns and parks:
cheap trinkets and mementoes sold:
capitalism’s marks.
They praise you not like man of god
but as a tourist sight,
like someone whose harsh penances
stemmed unemployment’s flight.
Before you came all this was sand,
you chose it for dusk’s peace;
but even now when midnight strikes
loud voices never cease.
By column’s base broad whores inscribe
their liquid thighs for sale
while camels wait, tied to bronze rings,
and ruminate their bale.
And so a vow to steal away
from eyes of fetid earth
has lathed one absurd turn-around
before a town’s new birth.
Come down to land you sold-by saint,
your mission’s consummated now.
See platinum lights advertise
the TV preacher’s show.
Italy abounds in places originally founded by hermits and called appropriately ‘eremo’ or ‘romitorio’ (hermitages). The most famous spot in Italy is certainly at La Verna, Tuscany, where my namesake obtained his stigmata.
There are a number of attractive ‘eremi’ or hermitages in our area of the Lucchesia: the mountains of mediavalle and Garfagnana. Here are some I’ve visited:
- Eremo di Calomini. (Vergemoli Comune).
See my post at:
https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/02/07/heavenly-hermitage-2/
- Eremo di San Viviano. (Vagli Sotto Comune).
See my post at
https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/08/15/the-exquisite-alpeggio-of-campocatino/
- Eremo di Sant’Ansano.
See my posts at:
https://longoio3.com/2018/02/24/walk-to-a-hermitage/
https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/07/05/heavenly-hermitage/
Who was Ansano (Ansanus)?
Born of a Roman family he was secretly brought up as a Christian but publicly declared his faith aged nineteen during the Emperor Diocletian’s persecution. Ansano then preached in Bagnoregio an amazing town which I have still to visit but has been described by blogger Debra Kolkka at
https://bagnidilucca.wordpress.com/2016/05/14/civita-de-bagnoregio/
Like all good martyrs Ansano was first tortured by scourging and being thrown into a pot of burning oil. He was then taken as a prisoner to Siena where he preached the Gospel. Ansanus was finally decapitated by order of the Emperor Diocletian.
Going through my photographs I find that I first discovered Sant’Ansano’s hermitage near the village of Lucignana in our valley of the Serchio in August 2005. It’s again a case of realizing that I’d visited some places much earlier than I supposed.
The pretty porch of the ‘Eremo’ with its expansive views over the valley has been a favourite resting spot for me on a number of walks. Let’s hope we can get back to these lovely places soon!