There are so many ways of travelling between Florence and Lucca. Of course, if one is in a hurry one takes the autostrada or the train. However, the route is replete with so many interesting sites that it seems a pity just to make it a quick dash from A to B.
We’ve taken the chance to visit the art cities on the route like Prato, Pistoia, Pescia, Empoli and San Miniato. However, in addition to these there are many delightful little villages or ‘borghi’ which are only a small detour away from the main route.
On our recent return from Florence we stopped at Montemurlo which is just a handful of miles from Prato. Above Montemurlo’s main centre on the Arno plain is the Rocca or castle. It’s not normally visitable being in private hands but its owner opens the castle gardens on special occasions. For example they are open the third week of November during the Olive Oil festa.
The Borgo has a sweet little parish church on one side of its little square. Built between 1085 and 1096, the pieve was partially rebuilt in the 13th century and is faced by an elegant architrave portico with late medieval terracotta pillars.
We were amazed to come across a fully working presepe in the adjoining oratory which reminded us that in just seven months it’ll be Christmas again!
By the church is a restaurant and bar. We just had a coffee there so can’t say anything about the food served . The trip adviser site for this place is at https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1924383-d939808-Reviews-La_Taverna_della_Rocca-Montemurlo_Province_of_Prato_Tuscany.html
What is outstanding about Montemurlo, however, are the incredible views one gets from it of the Arno valley stretching east towards Florence. It was a relatively clear day on our visit and we were able to make out the Brunelleschi cupola and the Giotto campanile. I noted, however, an obstruction in front of the cathedral nave and then realized it was the ghastly mass of the new city palace of justice inaugurated in 2012. Sadly the architect has since died so he can’t be brought to the courts he built to face charges of vandalism and spoiling an otherwise stupendous view.
After our brief stop we continued to Pistoia and then up and over the Apennine hills leading to our place near Ponte di Serraglio. We were so pleased to note that on our return to our little farmhouse our three cats immediately turned out present and correct.
