Our route to Viareggio took us up the picturesque Val Pedogna which we first described in our post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/10/24/back-to-the-iron-age/

At the very end of the valley, beyond Piegaio, is one the last traditional ironworks in Tuscany. It belongs to the Galgani family and the old boy in charge of it carries on a trade which dates back to at least the sixteenth century when immigrants from the Bergamo region of northern Italy came here to exploit the rich metal ores of the mountains and set up smithies and forges. Indeed, traces of the Bergamasque dialect still exist in the locals’ speeches.

The forge is next to a fast running stream and is a quiet and picturesque spot. Mr Galgani will carry out any commission asked and will also repair your existing iron and metal tools. To step into his workshop is to truly enter into a past age antedating the industrial revolution. I just hope one of his nephews will carry on the business as Mr Galgani told me none of his sons are interested in iron-smelting… Unfortunately Carlo Galgani did have a new apprentice but apparently he has now left his training.

Incidentally, the Galgani is one of the last three ironworks remaining in the Apuan Alps, together with those of Gragliana Graziani (Val di Cava Turrite) and Barsi of Candalla (Valle del Rio Lombricese).

The last ironworks in Piegaio was closed twenty years ago, so the Galgani ironworks (or “distendino” as it is locally known since it distends or melts metal ore) is living history. Much of the equipment dates back to the eighteenth century including the bellows.

We stopped at the smithy to sort out a new pennato (bill-hook) from signor Galgani’s Val Pedogna smithy

We then continued over the Passo Lucese whose road I can still remember as being untarmacked and continued along the picturesque Hobbema-like Val Freddana avenues to keep our appointments at the seaside resort of Viareggio.

The whole route is a delightful way to reach the seaside from where we live varying mountain forests with pastoral landscapes entering the expansive Versilian coastline.