We are now coming to the end of our cycle of mud and thermal baths at Bagni di Lucca’s Bernabo’ establishment. Every Friday morning for the past two months we have attended the re-opened Bernabo’ with our dressing gowns and crocs for another wallow in sybaritic languor.

Why did we feel the need to come here? It was, for me, because I’ve been having problems with my elbow and knee joints and something on my left cheek. Between our family doctor and the epidermist it was suggested that I attend the baths.

Sadly the Varraud baths are still closed and awaiting a shining knight in the form of a manager who will reopen them. However, the Bernabo’ has come to the rescue in a big way. It’s thanks to Bernabo’ that Bagni di Lucca can still call itself a living thermal establishment.

The baths can obviously be used if one is a private patient but we were lucky that thanks to an agreement between Bernabo’ and the Italian national health service we are allowed to use it at a much reduced rate. It would still be worth it, however, at the standard price since Giancarla’s management is top class.

Upon entry to the baths I am led to my cubicle. Here, as I lie on a couch, Giancarla spreads mud over my affected areas. The stuff is hot and clean (yes, mud can be clean); not like the one we were caked in when playing rugby at my secondary school, Dulwich college.

After twenty minutes Giancarla, or one of her helpers, re-enters my room and removes and washes the mud off as I enter one of establishment’s marble baths which date back to the Napoleonic era when one of its clients was Elisa, princess of Lucca and sister of the emperor, so inaccurately portrayed in Ridley Scott’s recent film.

I love the way the hot thermal waters splash into the marble basin and slowly cover my whole body in the soothing liquid. Before the advent of home bathrooms and boilers this experience was probably the only time the local populace received a proper wash. At other times they would – as malicious rumour has it – stand under the drops when it rained – like today!

Or perhaps, as so many of us like to do – plunge in the cool summer waters of our local river Lima, so replete with translucent pools.

At our appointment this week the Bernabo’ displayed Christmas decorations set up for its clients’ delectation.

I especially liked the twinkling lights scattering over the elegant octagonal pool.

We wish Giancarla and her devoted team our best wishes for Christmas and the New Year. Giancarla has done sterling work in restoring honour and pride to Bagni di Lucca’s thermal spa tradition and its reputation.

I don’t have to be a Swann and Flanderish hippo to enjoy the excellent curative qualities of glorious mud.

Already I feel a whole lot better thanks to Bagni di Lucca’s magic waters.