Yesterday afternoon we had the privilege of visiting the extraordinary Castle of Lucchio, perched dramatically above the Lima Valley. Having visited it several times over the years, this was our first opportunity to see it since the archaeological excavations began in 2024—and what a revelation it has been.
Border regions have always been lands of castles. Just as the great castles of Wales guarded the frontier between England and the independent Welsh kingdoms, Lucchio Castle stood watch over the frontier between Lucca and Pistoia, and later between the independent Republic of Lucca and Florence. Its strategic position is breathtaking, commanding magnificent views along the entire Lima Valley.
The visit was carefully organised in small groups, which was essential because reaching the castle involves some steep and challenging paths. The guides looked after everyone wonderfully, and we were especially grateful for their care.
Our guide, one of the lead archaeologists, explained that excavations could only begin once ownership of the castle had finally passed to the Comune di Bagni di Lucca. Since then, the discoveries have transformed our understanding of the site.

The castle is now believed to be at least 200 years older than previously thought, dating back to the 12th century rather than the 14th. Even more exciting was the discovery, at its heart, of a beautiful Romanesque church with its characteristic semicircular apse, almost certainly dedicated to St Peter. It now appears that the church existed before the castle itself and may even have inspired the fortress’s construction, with the village later growing beneath it.

The excavations have also uncovered arrowheads and the remains of three young children, offering poignant reminders of the people who once lived here. Seeing the church’s remarkable herringbone masonry was unforgettable. One cannot help wondering whether parts of it preserve building traditions stretching back even further, perhaps to Roman times, when retired soldiers were often granted land in these valleys. Many local villages still preserve Roman names that hint at those ancient origins.
Standing on the castle walls, looking across the wild landscape of the Lima Valley, it is impossible not to imagine the lives of the soldiers, families and villagers who once called this place home. The scenery is spectacular, and the atmosphere is unlike anywhere else.

This is not an easy castle to visit—it involves real scrambling in places, and today’s health and safety rules in some countries might never permit such access—but that only adds to its authenticity and adventure.

It was wonderful to see so many people there, including families, children and even dogs, all sharing in the excitement of discovering this remarkable place.
Our heartfelt thanks go to the archaeologists, guides, volunteers and the Comune di Bagni di Lucca for making this possible. Their work is uncovering not just stones and walls, but centuries of history that enrich our understanding of this beautiful valley.
What an unforgettable afternoon.

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