Christmas Cribbage

Here is a selection of photos of some of the seasonal events we’ve been attending in the run-up to Christmas.

The first was the Ghivizzano ‘presepe vivente’, or living crib, where villagers dress up to enact Nativity scenes. Craftsmen contribute with their traditional skills from spinning to brewing wine to making willow brooms to distilling grappa. What is most wonderful about these presepi is their setting in the ancient mountain villages with their steep cobbled alleys lit by flambent torches, their church bells resounding throughout the valley, their re-evocation of an old-style school and their angelic chapel interiors. No film sets are needed here…it’s the location that tells it all as no artificial scenario ever could.

The next scene we visited was the ‘Festa delle Briciole’ (‘Crumbs’ festival) of Fornoli masterminded by Marco Nicoli. It’s a modest affair but sweeter for that with Father Christmas, jesters and a tasty spread within the parish hall.

Santa Claus’s own village at Bagni di Lucca is a highly imaginative creation originally devised by our doctor’s (who played Father Christmas) daughters. We were stunned by the evocation of Father Christmas’s bedchamber, by the charming décor that transformed Villa Webb – which hosted such guests as Byron – and by that detailed Middle Eastern presepe.

The most recent scene in our festival peregrinations was to the living crib of Anchiano. Sadly, because of the death of a  villager on the same day, the presepe was, out of respect, a muted affair. However, there was plenty to suggest an arcane past, especially in the setting which was largely in the catacomb-like under-croft of the parish church (ironically enlarged by the Germans in the last conflict to provide a fortress as part of the ineffective gothic line).

The arrival of the Holy family with their new-born babe followed by the Three Wise Men (who included the former mayor of Borgo a Mozzano and our handyman) was particularly touching.

How wonderful it is that these manifestations of a birth that took place such a long time ago are spontaneous creations arising from the imagination of the local populace who with true love and devotion are able to recapture the essence of the momentous event that took place in the Middle East over two thousand years ago.

There are three more presepi viventi that we’re keen to revisit:

The first is at Barga on December 23rd. Details are available at https://www.eventiesagre.it/Presepi_Viventi/21065439_Presepe+Vivente+A+Ruota.html

The second (in our opinion one of the most picturesque and one dear to us as we have taken part in it several times) is at Equi Terme and runs from December 24 to the 27. Details are available at https://presepeviventeequi.com/

Our own contribution to this stunning presepe is described at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/12/28/a-living-crib-is-reborn-at-equi-terme/

The third (and equally fine) is at Ruota in the Pisan Hills.  This takes place on December 26th and more details are available at https://www.eventiesagre.it/Presepi_Viventi/21065439_Presepe+Vivente+A+Ruota.html

 

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