Another castle to add to our booty: Ceserana, between Este and Lucca territory, visited yesterday. Within its fortifications the Romanesque church of San Andrea. Around it the charming village with extensive views of the Apuans.

Ceserana, with the town leaning against the church and the fortress, stands on the left bank of the Serchio, in the southern part of the ancient Este province of Garfagnana. The Church of Sant’Andrea is mentioned in a papal bull of 1168, and although remodeled it retains its Romanesque features with an apse in which sculpted capitals and narrow single-lancet windows are inserted. The parish church is located inside the defensive structure, and the bell tower was probably rebuilt on the ruins of a medieval tower. An enclave subjected to the Este in a predominantly Lucca area, it has always needed an efficient defense system, especially to counter attacks launched from the overlying town of Lupinaia which we visited the following day to enjoy its chestnut festival. The renovation of the ancient fortress dates back to the second half of the fifteenth century and ensured the resistance of the original walls against the developing firepower of artillery of the time. Also occupied by bandits of the Moro del Sillico lineage, in the 17th century the castle was restored again, providing it with semicircular towers that can still be seen. In 1983 the Municipality of Fosciandora purchased the fort from the descendants of the last 18th-century castellan, restoring it to its original shape and size. They paid her lire 1000 which is about 50p. Not a bad price to pay for a castle!

To the right of the church is a building that was originally the parish priest’s residence. It later became the seat of the castellan until, in 1983, the descendants of the last commander decided to sell the fortress to the Municipality of Fosciandora. All around are the walkway of the guardhouse, the semicircular towers, the well with the water cistern and the arrow slits, especially facing Lupinaia, an ancient rival of Lucca. The apse of Sant’Andrea has finely carved Romanesque capitals. Unfortunately the church was closed during our visit so we must return to Ceserana to see them.

Un altro castello da aggiungere al nostro bottino: Ceserana, tra territorio Estense e quello di Lucca, visitato ieri. All’interno delle sue fortificazioni la chiesa romanica di San Andrea. Attorno il grazioso borgo con ampie viste sulle Apuane.