Norcini (pork butchers) festa at Ghivizzano castle yesterday. Fun, food and (mediaeval) fighting came back to this lovely borgo after a covidian absence of five years.

Ghivizzano is divided into two areas. The lower part near the railway station is just called Ghivizzano and is modern in appearance. The upper part is known as Ghivizzano Castello and consists largely of the mediaeval castle, now adapted into domestic houses, and its defensive outer walls. One of the most picturesque parts is a gallery connecting the town’s cellars:

Our visit to Ghivizzano’s tower was meant to be something we could squeeze into a crowded afternoon between one thing and the other. As soon as the tower’s door was opened by a Ghivizzanian we headed for the stairs leading to the tower’s top. Vain thought! ‘Before you climb up I would like to give you some history’ said tower door opener to the small crowd which had now gathered. We then found ourselves back in a rather long school history lesson which recounted the castle’s trials and tribulations from ancient Roman times to the eighteenth century. All well and good but all we wanted to do was to admire the views from the tower top. We trundled up three flights and on each floor more of the lesson continued. If only there was something of interest in the tower to hold our attention.

Unfortunately there was no coat of armour, no hidden passage, no blood besmirched dagger. Not even the portrait of a mediaeval lord! Anyway we bore it out and eventually were able to enjoy the expansive views of the town of Ghivizzano and its surrounding mountains.

We are pleased that the majority of local events we had to miss because of the pandemic have now returned to enliven our existence. They could so easily have disappeared for always…

Scesta finally had its new primary school completed and inaugurated last week. This luminously airy state of the art structure replaces a former school building which had to be closed and eventually demolished because it had become dangerous and, in fact, was not even designed for an area prone to both earthquakes and landslides.

The school’s inauguration was attended by a multiplicity of notables including those from the regional government. Speeches praised the effort and promises were made that Scesta heralded a new age for the area’s elementary school education.

There were few references to those voices who had criticised the project. These criticism were directed at three main points:

1. The delay in building a replacement school (over three years)
2. The cost involved (over a million euros)
3. Whether there was a need to replace the Scesta building after it was closed.

Anyway, despite the criticisms the school opened with an excellent atmosphere spread among everyone present. Many grown-ups, indeed, wished they were children again so they could start up in such welcoming classrooms.

One criticism remains however. A school built for 170 pupil placed only has 40 enrolled. Why? It’s simply because Italians aren’t producing enough children. Indeed, the peninsula’s population has actually decreased over the past few years. Some may state that this problem of falling birthrates does not afflict those persons coming from Africa or Asia. But do these third-worlders demand designer clothes for their children, special growth diets, regular seaside holidays, expensive toys or Christmas and Easter shows?

Only the best for children especially in Italy!

There has recently been so much confusion about the use of the following terms that I feel it’s time to straighten them out .

A REFUGEE is a person who has been forced to leave their country in order to escape war, persecution, or natural disaster. Bagni di Lucca accommodates several refugees under Italian government redistribution agreements.

A MIGRANT is a person who has moved to other places in search of work or better living conditions. Several British persons may be termed migrants if they only stay at Bagni di Lucca for a specific term and then move to a different location or country.

An IMMIGRANT is a person who has moved to a foreign country permanently for work or for better living conditions. Many British persons in Bagni di Lucca are immigrants either because they have become Italian citizens or hold a ‘permesso permanente di soggiorno ‘.

An EXPAT is a person who has moved to a foreign country temporarily for work often under employer’s contracts. An expat is usually only abroad for the purpose of making money, often has no need or desire to learn the language of that country, tends to live with other expats in compounds or enclaves and is rarely interested in integrating with the local populace. Sometimes persons retiring in a foreign country refer to themselves as ex-pats especially if they live in colonies such as those found in Spain.

I refrain from relating any of the above terms to persons’ political views especially those refering to the EU.

Recently I have been experimenting with AI chat programs. I decided to find out what they would come up with in chatting about where we live. This is the result:

“La Costa is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of nature’s embrace. Located in the charming region of Italy, this picturesque spot offers a unique and unforgettable experience for nature enthusiasts and adventurers alike.

As one sets foot on the paths here, a sense of tranquility washes over them. The air is crisp and invigorating, carrying with it the sweet scent of pine and wildflowers. The way meanders through lush green meadows, dense forests, and gentle slopes, offering breathtaking panoramic views at every turn.

One of the highlights of La Costa is its diverse wildlife. Nature lovers will be delighted by the sight of deer gracefully leaping through the undergrowth, squirrels scurrying up ancient trees, and a symphony of birdsong that fills the air. The trail is teeming with life, providing a rare opportunity to witness the wonders of the natural world up close.

The area’s beauty is not limited to its flora and fauna alone. Along the way, ramblers will encounter charming stone cottages, remnants of a bygone era, adding a touch of history and intrigue to the journey. These rustic dwellings stand as a testament to the resilience of the people who once inhabited these lands, and their presence adds an aura of mystery and nostalgia to the experience.

For those seeking a physical challenge, La Costa does not disappoint. The area offers a variety of terrains, from gentle slopes to more rugged and steep sections, providing a satisfying workout for the body and a test of one’s endurance. However, the effort is rewarded generously with breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and distant mountain ranges, making each step well worth it.

One of the most enchanting aspects of this area is its sense of seclusion. Unlike more popular walking destinations, La Costa remains relatively undiscovered and unspoiled by mass tourism. As a result, visitors can enjoy a sense of peace and solitude, immersing themselves in the serenity of nature without the distractions of crowds or noise.

In conclusion, La Costa is a hidden paradise waiting to be explored. With its breathtaking landscapes, abundant wildlife, and a sense of tranquility that permeates the air, this trail offers a unique and unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventurers. Whether you seek physical challenges, a connection with nature, or simply a moment of respite from the busy world, La Costa is a destination that will leave a lasting impression on your heart and soul.”

Well…I don’t think I could have put it much better myself!

The Lucca nobility liked siting their country retreats on the slopes of the Pizzorne, that range of hills which are the final statement of the Tuscan Apennines before the great Arno river plain spreads out. Like Venetians with their villas along the Brenta or Londoners with their retreats flanking the Thames the sylvan delights of the Luccan villas provided welcome escape from the hurly-burly of city life. Moreover, they also supplied the owners’ tables with fresh produce and palatable wines.

Perhaps the finest Luccan equivalent to the English country house is the Villa Reale or Royal Villa. The original building was transformed into an elegant neo-classical palace by Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte, when she became princess of Lucca. Here Elisa would be entertained by such figures as Paganini, the violinist who, legend has it, sold his soul to the Devil in return for the gift of divine musical talent and the company of equally divine women. Certainly dancing and concerts enhanced life at the villa reale as its sumptuous ballroom illustrates.

In the villa are also a games room, a bathroom, and Elisa’s own bedroom.

Into this last we stepped, dressed in Napoleonic-era inspired costumes, to join in a re-enactment day. We did not have expert couturiers tailoring for us but everything that was required we found in our wardrobes! My wife’s frock was, in fact, an Indian nighty and my boots came from Mongolia!

The Villa Reale is surrounded by an extensive park laid out in English landscape style by Elisa who replaced the old fashioned formalism of the baroque gardens with something more approaching the romantic taste of the time. Of the previous gardens little remains except for the grotto of Pan, currently being restored and thus closed to the public.

The clock building near the villa contains three interesting museums. The first covers the library and music collection of the Pecci-Blunt family who bought the villa in 1921 and restored and refurbished it. It also contains a charming collection of dolls gleaned from world travels. The second museum is filled with dolls-house modelled on buildings in the villa’s grounds. The third is the newest museum and illustrates through photographs and films the exuberantly socialite lives of the Pecci-Blunt family.

Letitia Pecci-Blunt was a generous patron of the arts and her villa became a veritable salon of the arts with such guests as Braque and Stravinsky frequenting it.

Unfortunately when Letitia died in 1971 the villa entered a long period of decline. Famous artists no longer counted among the guests and the building’s fabric became unkempt. Why this state of affairs should have come to pass I do not know. Presumably it was the old story: the heirs lost interest in their beautiful family mansion and spent their domestic lives elsewhere.

By 2015 the situation was dire. An ideas to turn the Royal villa into a luxury hotel was inappropriate. How could a listed building with large frescoed rooms be an appropriate conversion? Luckily a young Swiss couple who had fallen in love with this beautiful residence stepped in. They bought it and spent a fortune bringing the sleeping beauty back to life and returning its gorgeous features as one of Lucca’s finest sights.

Enlivened with events such as the one we attended the future of La Villa Reale is assured and the ghosts of, among other ladies, Elisa and Letitia must surely be laid to contended rest.

For more information about the Villa Reale and events there visit its web site at https://villarealedimarlia.it/

Many will think this comparison far-fetched. However, there are parallels: removal of employment rights, stay restrictions, added import-export duties, pauperization of affected population through trading limits, limit to free use of health facilities, visa requirements on travel, massive increase of personal documentation…. Just comparing Brexit laws with the Italian Racial laws introduced in 1938 by the then Fascist government. With one big difference: the Racial laws were introduced by the Italian government without democratic consent; the Brexit laws were introduced by the British government with the apparent consent of the electorate. Below picture of Gaetano Azzariti, president heading commission in charge of Italy’s 1938 Racial laws. Find a 2023 UK equivalent?

(Gaetano Azzariti, president in charge of Italy’s Racial commission in 1938).