All Change at Pisa San Rossore?

Railway and Underground stations have not always been known by their current names. Taking London’s Piccadilly line as an example the following stations have changed their names since they were first built:

‘Acton Town’ was originally called ‘Mill Hill Park’ when it opened in 1879. ‘Green Park’ was once named ‘Dover Street’ and Alperton formerly had a double-barrelled name, ‘Perivale-Alperton’.

There seems to have been little protest by Londoners at the name changes since these reflect the need of the underground system to more accurately reflect their geographical situation in the great metropolis.

There have been comparable name changes in Italy’s railway stations. Recently, for example, it has been suggested that stations in and around Turin should be modified to indicate important historical sights near the station so as to add to tourist interest.  In this example ‘Collegno’ becomes ‘Collegno Certosa’ reflecting the majestic Royal Charterhouse nearby. ‘Dora’ becomes ‘Dora Parco Dora’, ‘Lingotto’ becomes ‘Lingotto Fiere e Congressi’ indicating its conference and international trade fair facilities, ‘Moncalieri’ becomes ‘Moncalieri Castello di Moncalieri’ alluding to the marvellous castle in that town, ‘Nichelino’ becomes ‘Nichelino palazzina di Stupinigi’ since this where one alights to visit the elegant Royal hunting lodge there and ‘Rosta’ is changed into ‘Rosta Sant’Antonio di Ranverso’ which is the name of the beautiful mediaeval abbey there.

Here are some picture of the abbey taken by me as a teenager:

A similar method could have been used at Pisa for one of its stations, that of San Rossore which might have simply had ‘Torre Pendente’ added to it, alluding to the fact that if one just wants to see the city’s famous Leaning Tower it is possible to alight here rather than proceeding to Pisa’s Central Station. Instead, the municipal authorities have considered changing the name entirely and calling it instead ‘Piazza dei Miracoli’ (Square of the Miracles) a square which, incidentally does not exist on any street map of Pisa but is the popular name given to the complex of Pisa’s cathedral, Leaning Tower, baptistery and Campo Santo.

This blatant renaming proposal has particularly aroused the ire of the ‘Ippolito Rosellini’ cultural association, a conservation and local historical group presided over by my friend Giovanni Fascetti who is also the guardian of the imposing castle of Vicopisano designed by Brunelleschi, the architect of Florence cathedral’s dome, and which is described in my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/05/17/vicopisano-and-brunelleschis-military-architecture/

I have translated the letter written to the municipal authorities of Pisa and it is worth quoting it here to appreciate the unwarranted name change to San Rossore station.

“The ‘Ippolito Rosellini’ Cultural Group expresses its total opposition regarding the decision taken by the Municipality of Pisa to change the name of the Pisa – San Rossore railway station. Two negative effects are produced by this rash action: first of all the cancellation of the city’s historical memory since the name of the station is linked to the Royal estate of San Rossore which was once frequented by the Savoy monarchy every summer since the reign of King Victor Emmanuel II. The elegant and luxurious royal train stopped at San Rossore Station where the royal family and their entourage, continued in a carriage. The station’s name recalls a precious heritage that is part of the city and its history, including the regional park, proclaimed a MAB (‘Man and Biosphere’) Nature Reserve by UNESCO, one of the few in Italy.

The second reason against this renaming is the imposition of a place name, that of “Piazza dei Miracoli”, which is absolutely bogus. It’s not shown on any road map but is just a nickname. The  authentic name appearing on maps is ‘Piazza del Duomo’. As such it is known throughout the world, and has been included in the World Heritage List since 1987. If the intent is to promote the square in the light of a possible boost to tourism, this is certainly a disservice to the city since most tourists travelling by train alight at Pisa Central Station and, on the way to the cathedral square, discover that in addition to the Leaning Tower and its associated buildings there are also other wonderful city sights including monuments, churches, museums and restaurants which remain very poorly publicized .

Finally, let’s keep quiet about the condition of the Pisa-San Rossore railway station which certainly does not offer an adequate welcome to tourists, major sources of income for the city and for whom we should roll out a red carpet if we want  our economy to recover and not treat them as flocks of sheep to be sent away once they’ve been fleeced. Citizens and administrators do go and see for yourselves – when there is no lockdown, of course – the real conditions of a station that was once a Royal stop. Gangs of pickpockets gather here from the Piazza del Duomo, purloin bags and purses in green spaces that resemble a wateland. Syringes abound, and one may note down-and-outs defecating and urinating. There is no staff present and in the evening the place presents an utterly sad desolation.

We hope that the New Year will bring everyone a little wisdom!

The President Prof. Giovanni Ranieri Fascetti.”

***

I should add a few more facts about the San Rossore Royal estate and refer you to my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/14/il-gombo-pisas-ex-presidential-seaside-villa-and-park/ for more details about this magical place which is so near to the centre of Pisa.

San Rossore station itself originally dates 1846 as part of the Lucca-Pisa line. In 1861, Italy’s year of unification, the new section of the Tyrrhenian railway between Pisa and Pietrasanta was completed turning the station into a junction.

The former royal train shed still stands and is now a commercial unit.

In December 1998, during the works for the construction of a building that was to house the headquarters of the new goverment command and control System in Pisa, remains of ancient Roman boats and ships began to be unearthed by the excavations. This amazing discovery gave life to the fascinating Museum of Ancient Ships in Pisa about which I have written a post at https://longoio3.com/2019/12/23/italys-maritime-pompeii/

Finally, San Rossore station also serves as the main stop for students alighting for Pisa’s university whose main buildings are found in this area.

I think you would agree that the station should remain as San Rossore. At the very most an explanatory sign could be placed below the station’s name indicating that this is the main stop to alight for Pisa University and those visitors who only have time to see the Leaning Tower.

 

.

A House by the Marina

Marina di Pisa has long been known to us. My post at https://longoio3.com/2018/10/18/fishing-for-compliments-at-marina-di-pia/ tells something about the strange fascination of this place.

While spending a very pleasant afternoon at Marina di Pisa a couple of days ago and revisiting our favourite fish restaurant ‘Il Pescotto’ followed by a delicious ice at the bar across from the restaurant

Image00102

I came across this house. It looked particularly picturesque with its angled approach to the coast.

Image00104

I also noticed there was a plaque on the house’s façade. Who once lived there I wondered?

Image00105

It turned out to be Giuseppe Viviani, someone I had known nothing about.

Giuseppe Viviani (San Giuliano Terme 1898 – Pisa 1965) was an Italian painter and engraver who ranks among the greatest of twentieth century Italian artists (along with Giorgio Morandi and Luigi Bartolini). He had a particular predilection for life on the Pisan coast which he knew and described well as these works show:

On Viviani’s death, following his last wishes, the original plates of his engravings works were thrown into the sea at Marina di Pisa. (I wonder if there are scuba divers who have managed to find any of these plates.).

Giuseppe Viviani achieved fame only after World War II when he was appointed to the chair of engraving at Florence’s Academy of Fine Arts, a position once held by that superb impressionist painter Giovanni Fattori.

A period of great success began for Viviani and in 1960 the city of Pisa dedicated a major exhibition to him.

Viviani’s life was not easy: in fact, he lost his father at the age of two and had to move with his mother to live with his grandfather, a manufacturer of artificial limbs, objects that must have been imprinted in the memory of the child artist, so much so that he included them in several of his works.

With the Florence appointment Viviani, now fifty, finally received the success he deserved: his engravings reached high prices, giving him an economic foundation that allowed him at last to devote himself completely to his art and to his second great passion, hunting. It is not by chance that hounds are portrayed in many of Viviani’s works.

Upon his death the artist asked to be buried with his favourite shotgun…

Giuseppe Viviani’s art is marked by a melancholy and decaying vision of life and, at the same time, by a great love for life itself. With refined technical expertise, the artist moved between naive popular imagery and the search for references of memory, recreating a world of deep emotional content, rich in allusions, hints and meanings.

I am so glad I came across that house in Marina di Pisa and my discovery of Giuseppe Viviani’s work. My friend Giovanni Fascetti is president of the Viviani association at his birthplace at San Giuliano Terme. Indeed, Giovanni’s father, Antonio, a fine artist specializing in commemorative medallions who sadly died last year, knew Viviani.

Incidentally, Marina di Pisa is full of extraordinarily luscious fin-de-siècle mansions. Here are a few I spotted during my visit:

I just wonder who stayed in them?

 

 

Italy’s Futurist Architecture

In Peter and Linda Murray’s ‘Dictionary of Art and Artists’ (first published by Penguin books in the 1960s) futurism gets a rough ride, being described by them as one of the dullest and most mediocre of all artistic movements.

Opinions have changed a little bit since then. Yet futurism poses considerable problems even today, particularly with regard to its prevailing ideology of violence, speed, destruction of tradition, espousal of war as a method of social hygene and extreme right wing views such as fascism.

Futurism did champion the latest technology including aeroplanes, power stations and motor cars.  However, its repudiation of previous artistic movements as largely worthless remains quite unacceptable today particularly since concepts such as conservation and preservation have assumed critical importance.

Possibly the most original notion of the futurists was to publicise their movement through manifestos laying down their axioms. No other artistic association had ever done this before, not even the impressionists.

Futurists were keen for Italy to enter the Great War and regain homelands. Sadly, two of their most gifted exponents, Boccioni and Sant’Elia, lost their lives in the bloody conflict. I was especially keen to see Sant’Elia’s original drawing of his ‘ideal city’ at the recent, superbly organized, Palazzo Blu exhibition devoted to futurism at Pisa, since this prophetic architect has very few completed buildings to his credit, although his images inspired a new generation of Italian architects including Michelucci, chief designer of Florence’s fabulous Santa Maria Novella railway station, perhaps the finest example of futurist architecture.
IW_Stazione-Santa-Maria-Novella_041

Antonio Sant’Elia was born in 1888 in Como.

Antonio_Sant'Elia

In 1903 he completed his technical studies and in 1906 graduated as master builder. Becoming friends with the sculptor Girolamo Fontana and Carlo Care Sant’Elia attended cultural environments such as the Caffè Cova where he met Umberto Boccioni. His first major commission was the Villa Elisi in San Maurizio near Como in 1911.

b19e4e752b8c04bc838b5b2ed2ea6edd

In 1913, Sant’Elia opened an architectural studio in Milan and designed the tomb for Gerardo Caprotti in Monza’s Urban Cemetery.

In 1914 he presented his drawings for an ‘Ideal City’. Among these were designs for an airport, a train station, and a power plant. In the same year Sant’Elia contributed to a “Manifesto of Futurist Architecture”.

In 1915, sharing the ideas of the other futurist exponents, he joined the army together with Boccioni and Marinetti.

In 1916, after receiving a combat medal, Sant’Elia was commissioned to design the cemetery of the Arezzo Brigade, in Monfalcone. On October 10, while the cemetery was still under construction, he was killed in action.

The general theory of the ‘Ideal City’ is encapsulated in this sentence from the 1914 manifesto:

“We must invent and rebuild the futurist city similar to an immense tumultuous, agile, mobile, dynamic construction site in every part, and the futurist house similar to a gigantic machine”.

In France Le Corbusier conducted a parallel development with the concept of the ideal city in his ‘Cité Radieuse’ which postulated the demolition of the traditional urban layout of Paris and its replacement by vast areas of tower blocks and highways. We all know what this dystopic vision has led to in those cities where a degenerated version has created severe social problems. However, it’s odd that the drug-infested, knife-crimed UK tower blocks are now pointing to similarly-silhouetted exclusively-luxurious tower blocks; just witness the abhorrent developments along the south Thames waterfront at Battersea. Perhaps the fugacious ‘ideal city’ concept lives on still?

However, Sant’Elia deserves credit for having sensed the close dependence between architectural and urban problems on which the planning and reflection of all modern architectural movements has been set.

 

 

 

 

 

Three Unmissable Exhibitions

Three major exhibitions within easy reach of Lucca are ending soon and if you have any interest in the development of modern art they can on no account be missed.

The exhibitions are.
Amedeo Modigliani. Livorno Museo Della Citta’. Ending 16 February.


Futurism. Pisa Palazzo Blue. Ending 9 February.


Natalia Goncharova. Firenze. Palazzo Strozzi. Ending 12 January.

It’s a pity that I’m going to miss at least one of these but I have heard that they are all three stunning and if you can get to them do so!

Italy’s Maritime Pompeii

An Italian archaeological find of immense importance, something dubbed a maritime Pompeii, occurred in 1998 when, while digging the foundations for a new railway control centre in Pisa’s San Rossore area, the unbelievably unspoiled remains of over thirty ancient Roman ships and boats were uncovered. Miraculously preserved by the oxygen-lacking peaty soil of what was in olden times the Pisan shoreline (the sea has since receded a good ten miles) it’s taken twenty years of painstaking research and restoration to conclusively display to the public these glorious witnesses of the Roman Empire’s vast maritime trading empire.

The Museo delle Navy Antiche di Pisa opened earlier this year and is stunningly laid out in the city’s old naval arsenal. Divided into two sections, the museum makes excellent use of such features as the old cavalry stalls and the superb interior arcades.

The first section contains Pisa’s archaeological museum. Here one can wander from early Etruscan settlements, to the glory that was Rome’s major port, to the arrival of the Goths. Note the precursor to the surveyor’s theodolite and the Mithraic reference in the Phrygian cap wearing bas-relief…

The second section houses some of the most spectacular finds of everyday ancient Roman life since the uncovering of Pompeii in the eighteenth century. The ships hidden under the natural protection of the Pisan marshes reveal an all-encompassing typology of classical vessels from fluvial boats, precursors of the Venetian gondola, the canal long-boat and the Cambridge punt, to river cable-hauled ferries and sea-going cargo boats which sailed as far as Colchester, the Black Sea and the straits of Gibraltar. Never before has a glossary of floating craft been revealed in such detail and completeness before. I’m truly glad to be alive to admire this parade of maritime craft dating back to over two thousand years ago.

The museum’s ships display such features as interior handrails, cargo storage methods, double-skin hull construction, gang-planks, massive anchors, variety of sheet (sail) arrangements, seating arrangements (especially for passenger ships), oar propulsion and much, much more.

What are even more fascinating are the intimate insights into the lives of the average Roman sailor and his crew:

On-board games:

Fishing tackle:

Image00052

Clothes (leather water-proof greased jackets) and footwear:

Image00115

Maritime navigation aids and the mariner’s personal on-board possessions box (with lock):

Image00116

Astonishingly well-preserved basketware:

Image00054

There is even evidence of a ship’s cat!

Image00087

There’s a wall chart showing the typology of amphorae storage pots extending over four hundred years showing the increase and decrease of trade and reflecting the rise and fall of the Roman empire…so insightful of other empires including the British whose trade is now in danger of emasculation thanks to the cancer of brexitisis.

Image00102

For me there was a particularly poignant exhibit: the recovery of the skeletons of a  sailor and his dog (a beagle) crushed when a ship’s mast fell on them.

Image00064

Our vibrant journey through Roman port life was accompanied by one of the archaeologists who assisted in the recovery of this astounding discovery: his knowledge and enthusiasm was clearly conveyed to us and our little group of five who had booked a guided tour.

We emerged from past centuries into the present times which themselves are redolent of a birth which occurred when many of these sailors plied their wares between peoples of different shores but united in a common pursuit of commercial and cultural exchange: a European Union two thousand years before its time, a union whose collapse under barbarian forces took years to rebuild into the present coming together of twenty seven nations once, alas, twenty eight…

Image00124

Do visit the museum’s web site at https://www.navidipisa.it/en/ì for further information including opening times.

Pride in Gay Pride

On the occasion of the five hundredth anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci and on the occasion of the Gay Pride parade of Tuscany, which will take place in Pisa on 6 July, the “Ippolito Rosellini” cultural group, with the Patronage of the Municipality of Vicopisano and the ‘Pink riot Arci gay’ association, has organized an exhibition with the theme “Eros at the time of Leonardo da Vinci”.

The exhibition, curated by Giovanni Ranieri Fascetti, presents, through images and texts, from the 1400s and 1500s, homosexual and heterosexual love during the time of the great genius. Leonardo, along with many artists and writers of his era, contributed decisively to a veritable revolution in thoughts and customs: by bringing men’s attention back to nature and the beauty of our human bodies.

Re-reading Kenneth Clark’s seminal work ‘The Nude’ I realise that a heavy blow was dealt to the predominance of medieval sexophobia and to that sense of sin (just look at Charles Kingsley’s novel – of ‘Water Babies’ fame – ‘Hypatia’ in this respect) which for centuries had oppressed western humanity and was used by the ruling classes to consolidate their wealth and power.

This revolution led to a rediscovery of classical myths and a properly primordial conception of life: it was a weapon for the destruction of homophobic and sexophobic fanaticism against beauty; that beauty pervading works of true genius. Without it such masterpieces as Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ could never have been conceived.

The location of the exhibition, Vicopisano’s Palazzo Pretorio, is not accidental: in 1503 Leonardo da Vinci was in Vicopisano engaged in the development of projects for the conquest of Pisa. That ambience, hosting the exhibition with its ancient secrets, serves, with its atmosphere of a dark and repressive place, to give an idea of ​​how terrible punishments could be for ‘sexual faults’.

1280px-Una_cella_del_Palazzo_Pretorio_di_Vicopisano

My parents were divided in this celebration of emancipation of love independence of gender. My father still thought of that category of ‘queers’. My mother, as a psychoanalyst, had a soft spot for what Oscar Wilde described as ‘the love that cannot be told’, although, paradoxically, she couldn’t stand lesbians, or even women wearing trousers.

Times have changed, fortunately, in many parts of the world. I am not afraid to admit my encounters in my teens with same-sex relations. I see them as fun, not serious, and as a positive development in my final decision to go for heterosexuality in the love for my partner.

Yet, to this day (recently, most notoriously in Brunei), there are many parts of the world where marriage (let alone love) is still regarded as only heterosexual, to be punished otherwise by the secession of life in the loving partners.

Those days when a woman would lie flat on a bed and ‘think of England’ while her male partner penetrated her, in the hope that she would produce an heir worthy of the nation, have long long since passed.

May we hope that such times disappear and that love may be re-established throughout the world, regardless of sex, gender, or whatever other fashionable nomenclature may be applied to it, as the sole redeeming and truly godly essence that will save our beautiful and so sadly threatened world.

In this respect I note that Bagni di Lucca, under its former and admirable mayor Massimo Betti, celebrated its first gay marriage, of which I was the officiant, at Pian di Fiume, over eight years ago and that, since the legge Cirinna’ of 2017, same-sex civil marriages have become sanctioned under Italian law. Indeed, we attended such a marriage in the same fortress of Vicopisano where the Eros exhibition takes place, this year. For more details on that see my post at https://longoio3.com/2019/04/20/civil-union-at-vicopisano/

May LOVE ever be told. FOR EVER NOW.

“Eros during the time of Leonardo da Vinci” will be inaugurated at 9pm on Friday 5 July and will remain open to the public until 30 July every Saturday, from 3.30pm to 6pm and Sunday from 10am to 12.30pm and from 3pm to 6 pm. Admission is free.

Civil Union at Vicopisano

Cast your eyes back to an Italy of the nineteen sixties, the swinging age and the time of sexual liberation in so many countries especially in the UK and the US of A, and you’ll find a nation still entrenched in religious dogma and old-fashioned prejudice. At that time there was no Italian State law to allow divorce; abortion was a crime and same sex relationships were, if not quite anti-Wildean in their anathematic intolerance, pretty close to it…

Yet one must not consider Italy in the last century as an intolerant society. While (often innocent) victims were being regularly hanged in the UK, Tuscany had long since abolished the death penalty. The Grand Duchy of Tuscany, on November 30th 1786, under the reign of Peter Leopold Habsburg Lorraine, for the first time in the world, stopped torture and capital punishment with a formal act.

Under a united Italy the death penalty was abolished in 1889. That is, indeed, some aspect of civilization and freedom: just compare the UK where the last woman hanged was Ruth Ellis in 1955 and the last man, Peter Anthony Allen, in 1964.

However, Italy lagged behind in laws regulating sexual  matters and equality of women. The ‘crime of honour’ (if murdering a female partner could ever be described as an honourable thing…) was only eradicated from the statue book in 1981. Since that year there has been no leniency shown for murdering a female partner. Yet the law cannot automatically change men’s attitudes. In 2018, for example no less than 94 women were bludgeoned to death by their jealous male partners who felt that that their own ‘honour’ in society and that of their family would have gone for ever. (One recent and particularly horrific case involved setting alight to the car where ‘his’ woman and her two children were confined.)

On 1 December 1970, divorce was introduced into the Italian legal system. Before that time annulment of marriage was a lengthy and costly procedure involving the tribunal of the Vatican City in the ‘sacra rota’.

In 1978 law no, 194 established rules for the social protection of maternity and the “voluntary interruption of pregnancy”, and, for the first time, decriminalized and regulated the modalities of access to the abortion.

Just over two years ago, in 2016, a new law called ‘legge Cirinnà’ after the female politician who encouraged its establishment, came into effect.  The law regulates the civil union between persons of the same sex: gay couples, qualified as “specific social formations”, were able for the first time in Italian history to take advantage of a new legal institution of public law called civil union. In this regard, reference is made to article two of the constitution which deals with the equality of citizens without distinction of sex, and article three, on equal social dignity of citizens without distinction of sex.

It was with great happiness, therefore, that we attended the civil union of two of our oldest friends in Italy, Giovanni and Andrea. The ceremony took place in the Pretorian palace of Vicopisano, part of the magnificent fortress designed by Brunelleschi – he of the dome of Florence cathedral – and was presided over by the mayor of the district.

Image00030

 

(For more on the fortress see my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/05/17/vicopisano-and-brunelleschis-military-architect).

The ceremony was very well attended. As a professor, local historian and guardian of the fortress and of the temple of Minerva (for this arcane temple see my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/02/08/a-mysterious-temple/), Giovanni is loved and respected by a wide section of Pisan society. What was also wonderful was the fact that everyone who attended accepted the new law as if it had always been in place. There was real jubilation that the love (‘that once dared not speak its name’) between them (they’d known each for over 25 years) had finally been legally recognised by the Italian state.

After the ceremony there was a reception in the palace which houses an interesting museum.

From thence we went to a fine local restaurant (Chez Mes Amis at San Giovanni della Vena) for a truly gargantuan spread….

(PS. It’s good to know that Italy is moving forwards fast. Meanwhile in those islands north of Calais a nation is turning its back on the future in search of a long lost dream of ‘taking back’ its sovereignty. I do not doubt for a minute that if another lie-ridden referendum were held in that part of the world on capital punishment the results would be to bring back hanging. )

Fishing for Compliments at Marina di Pisa

We have known Marina di Pisa for a long time. During our summer holidays we would take the train with our cycles on board to Pisa Centrale station and then pedal the 13-odd kilometres to Marina di Pisa. Age has increased our affection for this place, redolent of history and inspiration, which, after some terrible years of decadence and neglect (like several English seaside resorts I know) is being revalued for the amiable resort it is.

One of Italy’s greatest poets, Gabriele D’Annunzio, wrote his finest poetry here, collected in ‘Alcyone’. My post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/03/29/superman-or-satanist/ describes this astounding person and includes my translation of his beautiful poem on the rain falling on the pine forests that form the background to Marina di Pisa.

D’Annunzio had an overwhelming love for Marina di Pisa. Equally in love with the town and its coastline were Eleonora Duse (who spent her holidays with D’Annunzio here in a villa by the sea),  another great poet, Dino Campana,  Sergei Rachmaninov, the painter Giuseppe Viviani and the nuclear physicist Bruno Pontecorvo .

At that time, wild dunes of grey and brackish sand joined the pine forest. Then in the fifties and sixties of the twentieth century disaster struck. Poor management and corruption increased erosion to the extent that, like a sea vampire,  waves eventually devoured the lovely sandy beach, today largely replaced by pebbles deposited on the sea front to avoid further destruction.

(Marina di Pisa’s beach as it used to be)

Furthermore, the railway which used to run between Pisa and Marina di Pisa (it continued to Tirrenia and Livorno) was closed down in 1960.

330px-Locomotiva_E.403_Ex_ACIT

Marina’s railway station is still there…

Image00130

However, all is not lost. Thanks to a 6.5 million euro funding from the region, province and the municipality, work is underway to restore the formerly sandy beach. It’s a sophisticated project and undersea barriers will be used to prevent the sea from consuming the once-praised beach yet again.

Marina di Pisa’s sandy beach restoration project is part of its revitalization as is the new marina at the ‘Bocca D’Arno’ (mouth of the river Arno).

This new marina has, however, caused some distress among those persons used to a more traditional town.  With affection I remember the delightful times I spent with friends at the ‘retoni’ (big nets) fishing for whitebait. We used to have marvellous fry-ups and watch the sun go down on the Tyrhennian Sea by the Arno. To see those happy times read my post at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/28/a-big-network-at-marina-di-pisa/

 

Houses and churches which were once neglected are now being restored and there are some spectacular examples of fin-de-siècle architecture equal to anything in Viareggio.

There are several excellent sea-food restaurants and if many of them are now closed at the end of the sea-bathing season there is one that always seems to be open: the ‘Pescotto’. We enjoyed an excellent fritto-misto there:

Afterwards we took a walk around the resort.

Returning home we couldn’t resist taking another look at that miraculous church marking the spot where Saint Peter landed to proselytise Italy and eventually be martyred, crucified upside down in Rome.

I have written extensively about this exquisite building at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/07/09/saint-peters-landing-place-in-italy/

and

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/07/08/a-more-interesting-way-of-getting-to-pisa-airport/

For those of you familiar with the beautiful Italian language I cannot resist including a poem on Marina di Pisa by Gabriele D’Annunzio:

O Marina di Pisa, quando folgora
il solleone!
Le lodolette cantan su le pratora
di San Rossore
e le cicale cantano su i platani
d’Arno a tenzone.

Come l’Estate porta l’oro in bocca,
l’Arno porta il silenzio alla sua foce.
Tutto il mattino per la dolce landa
quinci è un cantare e quindi altro cantare;
tace l’acqua tra l’una e l’altra voce.

E l’Estate or si china da una banda
or dall’altra si piega ad ascoltare.
È lento il fiume, il naviglio è veloce.
La riva è pura come una ghirlanda.
Tu ridi tuttavia co’ raggi in bocca,
come l’Estate a me, come l’Estate!
Sopra di noi sono le vele bianche
sopra di noi le vele immacolate.
Il vento che le tocca
tocca anche le tue pàlpebre un po’ stanche,
tocca anche le tue vene delicate;
e un divino sopor ti persuade,
fresco ne’ cigli tuoi come rugiade
in erbe all’albeggiare.
S’inazzurra il tuo sangue come il mare.
L’anima tua di pace s’inghirlanda.
L’Arno porta il silenzio alla sua foce
come l’Estate porta l’oro in bocca.
Stormi d’augelli varcano la foce,
poi tutte l’ali bagnano nel mare!
Ogni passato mal nell’oblìo cade.
S’estingue ogni desìo vano e feroce.
Quel che ieri mi nocque, or non mi nuoce;
quello che mi toccò, più non mi tocca.
È paga nel mio cuore ogni dimanda,
come l’acqua tra l’una e l’altra voce.
Così discendo al mare;
così veleggio. E per la dolce landa
quinci è un cantare e quindi altro cantare.
Le lodolette cantan su le pratora
di San Rossore
e le cicale cantano su i platani
d’Arno a tenzone.

(Gabriele D’Annunzio, “La Tenzone” da Alcyone – Marina di Pisa 5 luglio 1899)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hell on Earth near Pisa

Today it’s raining and that’s a real blessing for our part of Italy which has received virtually nothing from the heavens for over a month. The extreme dryness spreading over the land has made the risk of forest fires very real and the greatest conflagration in local living memory broke out over the Pisan Mountain on the 24th of September. It spread rapidly, fuelled by strong winds, and was not finally extinguished until the 28th.

 

(Photographs courtesy of Tuscany Fire-fighting service)

By that time the appearance of large tracts of the Monte Pisano, which separates Lucca from Pisa, had changed from a deep green autumn colour to a hellish grey desert.

 

(My photographs)

Over 1400 hectares of forest were destroyed, many houses were devastated out, damage to olive groves hundreds of years old was extensive, both domestic livestock and wild animals were burnt alive. An artist friend living in Pisa noted that the first she knew about any fire was when her and her neighbours’ houses were suddenly invaded by hordes of flying insects fleeing from the mountain fires. This is, indeed, a well-documented phenomenon.

Fortunately there were no human victims but hundreds of people had to be evacuated and many livelihoods destroyed.

It’s a sad fact that the Monte Pisano does suffer from fires at regular intervals. But the last major fire in September 2009, with 120 hectares burnt, hardly compares with the present catastrophe.

One of the families affected by the inferno and one of many having to suffer a ‘notte bianca’, i.e. a ‘white night’ of sleeplessness, was that of our friend Piero Nissim who lives on the route above Calci leading to Buti (still closed because of the wild-fires). Piero is a world-famous writer, poet, playwright, composer, singer-guitarist, master Esperantist, puppeteer and documenter of the Nazi-fascist atrocities perpetrated in the last war, particularly against the Jewish people. (Piero’s mother was from a Lithuanian Jewish family and his father, Giorgio Nissim, was an Italian Schindler-like figure who saved thousands from the death camps and was awarded the Italian gold medal for civilian valour). I have mentioned the multi-faceted Piero in my posts at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/04/08/a-plea-for-justice-and-civility-in-italy/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/10/28/pumpkins-and-puppets/

We visited Piero’s family just after the fire – the visit had been organised before the conflagration – and Piero gave us a hair-raising account of the terrible, sleepless night of the 25th when evacuation and the destruction of their exceptionally interesting house with its art works, puppets and books were so perilously close.

Image00057

(From left to right: Piero’s wife, Claudia, Sandra’s mum Elia, Piero’s daughter Miriam, Sandra, me, Piero Nissim)

Fortunately the flames didn’t reach them although they saw them rising hundreds of feet in the air just a few yards away. What saved them were the mountain stream and the road which separated their house from the main fire.

 

(Piero’s ‘white night’)

Now with the rains do not believe that things will come back to normal. Without the trees the steep slopes of the Pisan mountain will be subject to landslides and massive earth movements. For this reason, after the fire-fighters, with their Canadair planes and helicopters, the channel excavators have moved in tracing ditches which will hopefully allow the rain water to be diverted into conduits and not further devastate the hills.

The Pisan Mountain, scene of some of my most enjoyable walks, will never be quite the same again. True, the damage could have been far worst for even the splendid Charterhouse of Pisa at Calci  with its priceless museum and monastery was threatened.

The fortress at Vicopisano, designed by Brunelleschi and curated by another friend Giovanni Ranieri Fascetti, was also dangerously close to becoming another victim:

Image00070

(Talking of Vicopisano, there’s going to be a castagnata or chestnut festival there this October 4th in the late afternoon).

Forensic investigations now point to the fire as a deliberate act of vandalism. Why? There’s no reason to set alight a mountain which is a national park and protected from any illegal building.

Yes, these scars will last throughout our own lifetime and only disappear with new generations who, hopefully, will have greater regard for Mother Nature and her irreplaceable wonders.

 

 

Make a Day of it to Pisa Airport

Early flights from Pisa to the UK are all very well if the airfare is truly cut-price, if you have a private means of getting to the aerodrome and, most important, if you can bear to shift yourself from the snug warmth of your bed at an unearthly early hour. Otherwise, why not take a train to Pisa the day before your journey, check into a place near the airport and enjoy more of the inexhaustible delights this lively city can offer?
My favourite check-in place is Pisa Hostel in Via Corridoni just 6 minutes from the railway station and a brisk 15 minutes walk to the Galileo ‘s departure lounge. If you are a couple (or two couples) you can have your own room; otherwise you can share a four-bunk-beds and en-suite bathroom with others.
The place is truly fun. You can have a great eat-as-much-as-you-like buffet for Euros 8, get the best scrambled eggs in Tuscany at 4am before walking across to your flight, have a jam session on the musical instruments provided for guests, laze in the garden, meet and exchange notes with other world travellers and, most important, have friendly and helpful staff who will bend backwards to make your shortest stay a pleasant one. And all this accommodation for euros 13 a night!

Of course, if you still crave for your boutique hotel….

 

 

My afternoon walk around Pisa took me to the new fortress whose otherwise delightful gardens were turned into a small lake thanks to the deluge of rain we’ve been having.

wp-15217878519811838202094.jpeg
I crossed the Arno, on the way passing the bombed-out wreck of a palazzo where in 1821 Shelley wrote his elegy ‘Adonais’ on hearing of the death of his contemporary Keats; a situation which is the subject of a friend’s, David Reid, recent poem.

 

 

On the Arno’s northern bank I visited my private museum which includes a collection of some of the most superb Pisan paintings and statuary. Or so it seemed my own private museum to me. For three hours there were no hoards of tourists to obstruct my views, no peering guards, no interference to the meditative pleasure of gazing on some of the most exquisite women, the most animated scenes, the noblest religious representations by artists which included greats like the Pisano family and even a Masaccio, all beautifully presented in the old convent of San Matteo.

 

 

When I told the entrance staff how much I enjoyed my visit but was surprised that I was the only visitor he replied ‘that’s what they all say. But isn’t it better like this? You can truly enjoy the beauties around you without the distraction of all those tourists like you get in the Uffizi.’ I had to agree!
I walked along the Lungo Arno which I find quite as beautiful, if not more than Florence’s, especially when a transcendent sunset was colouring it.

dscn7995_1-831537671.jpg

I began to feel peckish and so headed for my favourite Chinese restaurant near the Palazzo Blu. The menu is well translated into Italian so that my favourite Xiaolonbao became ‘ravioli al vapore’. They were here just as good as the ones we had tasted at Shanghai’s Nanxiang Bun shop.
The spaghetti with Beijing sauce were scrumptious with their spring roll additions, and surprisingly al dente. Again, I knew it was a good place to come to eat by the preponderance of young Chinese customers and the very cordial service.

 

 

Then it was a walk back to the Pisa Hostel via the animated pedestrianised Corso Italia, to the dreaded 4 am wake-up alleviated by those charmingly served delicious scrambled eggs.

I returned to the Great Wen, however, in time for a delicious fish n chip lunch and surprisingly sunny, though windy, weather.