Troublesome Priests

Canonic (church) law in the Roman Catholic church states that it is the Bishop who appoints a parish priest and certainly not ‘the will of the people’. Hence the rise of often troublesome situations.

Bagni di Lucca suffered one recently in its parish when the newly appointed vicar was accused by his parishioners of favouring radical religious opinions (e.g. ecumenical services with other religions, advanced views on gender etc.). For the somewhat conservative Bagni church goers this was all too much and they complained to the Bishop of Lucca.

The situation was further complicated by the new appointee accusing the former parish priest of interfering in his parochial affairs despite the fact that the previous incumbent was now officiating at a church over thirty miles away. It’s true to say that the former parish priest was very popular and was particularly dexterous in organizing youth and music activities. His ex-parishioners were sorely disappointed at Don R’s departure but he made occasional return trips to meet them.

The difficult event made its way to the newspapers and the local TV station NoiTv; it was only the intervention at Bagni of the bishop of Lucca which has obtained a workable solution to the parishioners’ stand-off. After all, locals still love a church wedding and for a new-born not to be christened would be anathema.

A rather clearer and certainly more intolerable situation occurred when a parish priest from North of the Appennines was found in delicto flagrante with an underage girl in his car. He was relieved of his duties and escaped to a relative’s house in a village near to Bagni. Everyone thought that the priest should be immediately arrested and put on trial for abusing minors (indeed, parents withdrew their children from the local school for fear of this ecclesiastical predator) but this did not happen for months until, recently he was brought to justice and given a long prison sentence.

An incredible situation regarding unpopular and troublesome priests occurred back in 1967 in a village we passed on our recent peregrinations in the mountain regions of the Veneto. Called the Schism of Montaner it led the entire population to renounce their Roman Catholicism and espouse the Greek orthodox religion.

How did all this happen? In 1967 Don Giuseppe Fae’, a very popular priest who had led the partisans against the nazi-fascists during WW2 and who was considered a saint by many, died.

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Everyone thought he would be succeeded by his helper and vice-vicar but the bishop (who would later be appointed one of the Church’s shortest lived pope, John Paul I) thought otherwise and appointed a less than popular candidate. The locals were outraged: they barricaded the new priest in his vicarage, there was talk of an armed insurrection and eventually the Bishop turned up, protected by a bevy of carabinieri. The bishop’s answer to the problem was short and sharp: he withdrew the consecrated hosts placed on the parish church’s altar and forbade all priests to celebrate Holy Mass or to administer the sacraments until the Montaner parishioners accepted the new vicar.

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The parishioners’ answer was to renounce their Catholic faith. Thanks to a lady who was herself of Greek orthodox persuasion an orthodox priest was invited to the village and converted all the inhabitants to a religion which, ironically, had itself been the product of a schism, this time some hundreds of years previously.

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Regrettably, the orthodox priest and his acolytes proved to be less than orthodox in their behaviour and there were instances of drug-dealings and mass sex orgies. Other variants of orthodoxy were tried out: Nubian, Assyrian and even Nestorian. Eventually, a less unorthodox orthodox priest was appointed and the Montaner parishioners returned to a less sinful path. An orthodox monastery was founded which still continues to the present day; indeed a foundation stone for a new cloister was inaugurated in 2018.

We did not have time to investigate the monastery in further detail but looked sadly upon the remains of the original orthodox church which was burnt down, due a short circuit, almost ten years ago.

I was, however, informed that several inhabitants had returned to their Catholic faith and that the previous troubles were just a dim memory. I think part of the reason for this is that religion plays a rather less important part in Italians’ lives than it used to at the time of the scism fifty years ago.

It’s all a bit sad, anyway. There was a time when ‘vox populi ‘ was indeed ‘vox Dei’ but today, with increasing secularism aided by paedophilia scandals in the Church, collapse of recruitment for priests, nuns and monks and the decline of religious axioms had meant that it would be difficult to have entire communities change their other-wordly directions just because they were afflicted by the imposition of a troublesome priest within their parochial boundaries.

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Of Storks and Births

In Italy a rosette fixed on a front door signifies a birth in the family: light blue rosette for a boy and pink for a girl. Sometimes a stork makes an appearance too. This was certainly the case with the daughter-made-mum of friends we visited in Italy’s Veneto region. As owners of a considerable vineyard, producing some of the country’s best prosecco, they decorated the approach to their holding with an ample array of rosettes and …. a stork. As it’s been a particularly good year for this bubbly wine, that flowed plentifully.

But why is the stork a symbol of birth? One tells children about that personable bird, making its home on European chimney-tops and carrying the newborn in a bundle to the family, but not everyone knows why the stork has become such an important symbol for births.

For many ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, the stork was considered sacred and was endowed with almost divine characteristics. It was worshipped in ancient Rome where it was associated with Juno, the goddess of fertility and protectress of pregnant women.

At the dawn of Christianity the stork became a symbol of purity and was given the task of hunting snakes which have always depicted sin and debauchery.

The stork’s large wingspan has helped to give the idea of ​​the angelic nature of this extraordinary bird and its disappearance for nine months, when it migrates south for warmer climes in the winter, the length of a normal pregnancy, also enhances the stork’s mythical role.

We have enjoyed stork-watching on the continent but have never come across these birds in the UK except on one rare occasion when a stork took off from a small lake in a Welsh heath. It was a quite unforgettable vision.

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Had you lost your way, mistaken
a wind-tide when I watched you
among Celtic hills far away
and alone in the blue?

You’re quite in the family way;
through the Burgenland
we passed few chimneys near the lake
without your nesting stand.

Untidy heaps yet loved the more
for talismanic force,
no house could be conceived complete
without your vast resource.

Loveable bird, bringer of life
in European plains
Healer of wounds, ender of strife,
through you all earth sustains.

Did you ever then find your way
back to the lake of reeds,
return to favoured chimney stack,
appease our inmost needs?

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A Gorgeous Gorge

While visiting friends in North East Italy, yesterday, on a beautifully gold-hued autumn afternoon we explored the Caglieron caves, located in the municipality of Fregona, province of Treviso. Strictly speaking they are not caves but rather a series of cavities created partly by natural erosion activities and partly by human action.

The natural erosion part consists of a deep gorge carved by the Caglieron stream through alternating layers of limestone, sandstone and marl laid down in the Miocene. One can admire numerous waterfalls, some over thirty feet high. In the deepest part of the gorge one can observe large calcareous concentrations which, closing part of the vault, give the whole the appearance of a cave.

 

 

 

The artificial formations are due to the extraction of sandstone blocks which provided the material for the construction of jambs and architraves adorning many buildings in the surrounding area thanks to the stone’s easily workable nature. The particular method of extraction included the creation of inclined columns to support the vault that otherwise would have collapsed. The result is a collection of picturesque artificial cavities, below which the Caglieron stream flows.

 

 

 

 

The whole area can be visited thanks to the creation of a slightly hair-raising path which seems to fly across the gorge and its cavities. We visited after a night of heavy rains so the sound of the caves’ cataracts was especially impressive.

 

 

 

At the end of the trail there’s an old mill converted into a restaurant bar where, on a previous visit to this site we enjoyed delicious wild boar.

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The caves are free and always open, although I would hesitate to visit them by night. Watch out for summer events including theatre and parties!

Beautiful Places Bathed in Music

It’s ten years since the Brunini-Atzori guitar duo inaugurated their first season of recitals in Borgo a Mozzano.

Entitled ‘Incontri musicali : I Luoghi del bello e della cultura’ ( “Musical Encounters – places of beauty and culture”) the recital series was started in 2010 by ​​guitarist Giacomo Brunini with the idea of bringing the public, especially young people, closer to the world of music through concerts, meetings, presentation of recordings and masterclasses on various genres and musical styles from early to contemporary music.

Every year the music events are held in various locations in the Municipality of Borgo a Mozzano and are aimed at rediscovering significant places of striking beauty and artistic importance.

Indeed, the marriage of good music making and little-known but beautiful sites is quite irresistible.

Here is a list of the artists playing in the concert programme for this autumn:

ArmoniEnsemble Guitar Trio
Masini-Costantino guitar duo
Eliseo Sandretti, organ and spinet
Francesco Tomei, viola da gamba
Atzori-Brunini guitar duo
Lydian Guitar Trio
Etymos Ensemble

There will also be a special appearance by Marco Lugliani, the lutenist.

To date I still have to get the precise dates of the concerts from Brunini but as soon as I get them I will put them on my blog page. So watch this space closely!

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