They started earlier than expected so we had to search the streets of North Prato for the elusive monsters. At last we found them and fine beasts they were; paper ones but still ferocious and followed by a colourful procession.
The Chinese new year is based on a solar-lunar calendar and occurs between the end of January and the end of February. Already delayed in Prato firstly out of respect for the victims of a work accident in Florence when five persons died in the construction of a new supermarket (I wouldn’t want to shop there when it opens. How about you?), secondly, because of the recent ghastly weather which has seen Tuscany plunged into orange alert because of the wind and rain, the festival finally took place starting from the Buddhist temple in the town’s new market square.
Legend relates how an evil monster named Nian terrorised the inhabitants of a Chinese region demanding maidens to be brought to him for his meals. Luckily an astute old man realised that Nian was averse to fire and the colour red. He, therefore, decorated his house during the night with red banners and decorations and set off a host of fire-crackers. The following morning the inhabitants were amazed to find that their town was unharmed and that no maidens had to be sacrificed to the monster. Nian had disappeared from view never to return!
That’s why the festival was accompanied in Prato by episodes of incredibly loud crackers and smoke.
The procession wended its way from the Chinese quarter around the Via Pistoiese through the narrow streets of the old walled city to end up in the square with that beautiful early renaissance church of.Santa Maria delle Carceri. Thence the dragons. climbed up to the main entrance of the Emperor’s imposing castle displaying their dazzling long tails to a cheering crowd.
I was pleasantly surprised at how a mediaeval quarter of an Italian town could serve as the backcloth to an oriental pageant. It really seemed like the Florentine Medici meeting up with the court of Kubla Khan Marco-Polo fashion.
But how could this amazing event, worthy of the world’s most famous Chinatowns, happen? It’s now over thirty years since the first Chinese came to Prato, seduced by hopes of employment in Prato’s long established textile industry. Rather like the Indians in UK’s Bradford they revitalised a dying industry and brought new life to.an Italian town. True, they also brought some problems. Health and Safety and legal requirements were often disregarded. Any sense of integration with the local populace seemed a distant dream. However, today, with a Chinese population making up almost a quarter of the town’s quarter million population, things may be changing, especially among young people. Indeed there are now Chinese representatives in Prato’s trades councils and school for children are well-integrated. However, although our presence was welcome, we found it difficult to find many Chinese understanding Italian or even English!
We found that perhaps Italy’s largest Chinatown has a good selection of shops, especially hairdressers, herbalists, laundries, electronics and, of course, eateries. And, unlike Italian-owned shops, they always seem open 24/7!
We enjoyed an excellent rice-based lunch at just €10 for the two of us in a restaurant where we appeared to be the only non Chinese.
Who knows how relations between two such different cultures will develop. One Italian I met.told me that he reckoned the Chinese would start leaving soon since Italy was fairing not too well economically and China was exploding with economic growth.
Who know? All we know is that we enjoyed a great day out at Prato combining oriental festivities with renaissance wonders like the Filippo Lippi frescoes in the town’s delightful cathedral.