Santa Celestina: a load of hot air?

It was over ten years since I last witnessed the launch of Santa Celestina’s balloon. I wasn’t going to miss her this year!

The Balloon of Santa Celestina is made of paper and powered only by hot air. It’s launched every year around September 8 at San Marcello Pistoiese on the occasion of Santa Celestina, patron saint of the Pistoia Mountains.

Celestina was a third century martyr decapitated by the emperor Valerian, notorious for having dispatched more women than any other Roman emperor. Celestina’s remains found their last resting place in Gavinana and in the church of San Marcello Pistoiese, the busy little market town and holiday resort on the ‘high route’ between our Val di Lima and Pistoia.

 

In 1832 Tommaso and Bartolomeo Cini, during a trip to France and Switzerland, met Elias, son of Joseph Montgolfier, the inventor of the hot air balloon. Returning the visit in 1835, Elias Montgolfier gave Cini, owner of a paper mill of La Lima, a formula for the production of hot air balloon paper and a plan for their construction.

The launch date of the first balloon goes back to 1838 on the occasion of the solemn religious procession in honour of Santa Celestina. The colours chosen for the balloon were those of the Civic Guard flag of which Bartolomeo Cini was commander: green, white and red arranged horizontally (incidentally, the same colours of the Italian flag). These colours are used to this day.

Tradition says that if the balloon goes higher than the church’s bell tower it will be a lucky year for the whole mountain area, otherwise it certainly won’t….

And if the balloon catches fire through the brazier flames then it will be really doom and gloom!

We held our breath in the packed central square. The day was absolutely glorious. The balloon gradually inflated to its full, grand size.

 

I was allowed to take a peek inside the monster. It was terrifyingly hot in there!

 

Then the team held onto the balloon’s rim, crouched down, slowly lifted themselves up, held their hands high and…let go.

 

The moment the balloon left the earth to wend its way up into the bluest of skies felt quite emotional.

 

Luckily for us, the launch was very successful. The old-timers said it was the best they’d seen for years.

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We are, therefore, ensured a prosperous year ahead…at least in our mountaineous part of the world!

 

Some facts about the balloon for the technically minded:

It’s made of 24 strips of paper glued together. It is 15 metres high with a circumference of 30 metres, a total volume of 450 cubic metres and a weight of about 100 kg.

Picture Post

Kevan Halson is a well-known and highly regarded fine arts photographer who resides in the purlieus of Bagni di Lucca. He first came to my attention with a ‘dilapidations’ project some years back. This is where Kevan concentrated on decay and decrepitude in buildings and their fitments. A kind of memento mori, the exhibition aroused great interest and demonstrated just how good Kevan is is in his field – the use of silver nitrate paper technique so little used today, for example, was quite virtuosistic.

Kevan’s current project involves photographing migrants to our area and who have resided here for several years.

The term ‘migrant’ covers all people from other countries who have gravitated to Bagni di Lucca and made it their principal home. Their reasons could be several: improved quality of life, work, life-style change, love affair….

Personally, I came here for a life-style change and have never regretted it. I also abhor people who call themselves ‘ex-pats’. Whether one comes here from the Old Kent Road or from the deserts of Sudan one still remains a migrant.

Kevan has set up a studio in what used to be Ponte a Serraglio’s parish hall, theatre and cinema.

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It is a beautiful neo-classical building with an airy interior including a columned gallery.

I remember this hall last being used for the Ponte a Serraglio arts festival, an event which ran from 2013 to 2015 and has now achieved quasi-mythical status.

I shall always remember the amazing concert, which included the didgeridoo and gongs, given here with the participation of Pistoia’s Tronci foundation.

I became a subject in Kevan’s illuminating project a couple of days ago. I’d never been a photographic subject before and Kevan made me feel fully at ease while he shot away in a scenario filled with lighting effects, mirrors, reflectors and such-like.

At the same time, the photographer’s assistant asked me some simple questions, putting together a basic biography of myself and the reasons why I had decided to come and live at BDL.
The project ‘I am not from here’ is on-going and well-worth participation. Some of Kevan’s stunning photographs may already be viewed on Facebook.
Do get in touch with Kevan at http://www.kevanhalson.net
Or just meet up with him at the Old cinema at Ponte a Serraglio. There can be no-one described as un-photogenic in our part of the world!

In for a ‘Penny’, in for a Pound?

With the wonderful trade opportunities which will open out for the UK after the end of March next year I thought I’d investigate how deeply the British market had penetrated that most elusive of Italian retail sectors: the discount store.

I chose our local ‘Penny Market’ at Borgo and scoured its shelves yesterday. Heading for that other essential item when having a cuppa, the biscuit, I found the digestive biscuit. Penny has had an imitation, manufactured in Italy, for some time.

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Now, however, it has the real McCoy!

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I think I will start having ‘can you tell the difference between Mcvities and……’ tea parties. After all, a sensitive palate does often link up with a sensitive personality. A good way to distinguish true friends? OK, so you couldn’t tell the difference … don’t look around for another invite then!

Of course, one could always drown one’s sorrows. There’s a choice between two brands of mother’s ruin, one of which is manufactured in Italia under license and the other which, reputedly, is distilled in the Great Wen.

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Of course, no gin is complete without its traditional complement:

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I do know local friends who like to mix the stuff with pineapple or other fruit juice, however.

The water of life is distilled north of Hadrian’s wall and I await a really freezing winter’s evening to allow myself a tipple of this tincture.

 

Naturally, if you go to ‘higher class’ (but not necessarily higher quality) supermarkets you’ll find HP sauce (but only the barbecue variety) which has abandoned Brexitain and is now manufactured in the Netherlands (how low….), Heinz baked beans, Lea and Perrins (still matured in Worcestershire) and several other items.

However, unless one enters the few speciality English shops in our area (like the one in Viareggio), it’s going to be difficult to find items like Wensleydale, Cheddar Stilton or, indeed, any other fabulous English cheese. Scrumpy drinkers will just have to go dry …… to say nothing of tea-cake or ginger-nut devourers.

Now all this is happening while the UK is in one and the world’s largest market. So what are the prospects after the next April fool’s day I wonder?

There may be excellent markets for digestive biscuits in South Africa, perhaps, and a G n T will be essential at sundown but….

Just realized I missed out on that classic snack, the Kit-Kat (now owned by a Swiss company) which I also spotted in ‘Penny’.

Perhaps, dear feeder, you might be able to fill me in on other great British exports, at least as far as food is concerned, on Italian discount supermarket shelves?

Do let me know. Thanks!

 

PS Prices are in Euro but there’s not too much difference now with sterling thanks to the UK’s glorious chancellor of the exchequer.

Ibiza Comes to Fornoli

‘Es Vedrà’ is the name of a magical island off Ibiza. It is the reputed haunt of mermaids and naiads and also, in more recent times, the landing ground for UFOs.

‘Es Vedrà’ is now the name given to a new pizzeria at the end of Fornoli at the junction of the road leading to Calavorno.

Opened last week by a young couple, one the daughter of ‘La Ruota’, also in Fornoli, the location, in fact, had a previous incarnation as a pizzeria and one we frequently used to go to as a friendly rendezvous, That was quite some time back and for several years the place was closed.

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(Photo courtesy of Emmanuela Ambrogi)

‘Es Vedrà’ is now a completely revamped place and the old-fashioned but dated cosiness of the former pizzeria has been transformed into something more up to date and almost minimalist.

I visited ‘Es Vedrà’ on the day of its evening opening but was unable to stay for the official opening ceremony. I am quite sure the pizzas will be up to the high standard of the former establishment and look forwards to tasting my first ‘quattro stagioni’ there soon.

Incidentally, why the name ‘Es Vedrà’? It’s because the owners, Stefania Rocchiccioli e Alessandro Fede, spent some time working in Ibiza in catering and fell in love with the place.

Bagni di Lucca may not quite have the night life of Ibiza but let’s hope that the enterprising young couple will liven things up in Fornoli with their new venture. I, for one, wish them the best of luck.

 

Address:  Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 94, 55022 Bagni di Lucca LU

Hours:  Opens at 6 pm
Telephone339 491 9880

Fornoli’s first vintage car rally

Fornoli’s first vintage car rally took place last Sunday. Although heavy thunderstorms were forecast, a courageous band of cars made it to San Cassiano including several classic cinquine, of which we were the proud owners of one before our accident last April.

The participants were invited to an aperitif and a visit to the local museum where the statue of the knight, said to be Saint Martin and sculpted by the great early renaissance artist, Jacopo della Quercia, is displayed.

We are expecting more bad weather over the next few days and the whole area is under yellow alert. Pity the poor tourists who have chosen this part of the world to spend their late summer holidays…

I was able to view Paul Anthony Davies’ magnificent photographic book of one year in the life of San Cassiano (2016-17). This is definitely a book to treasure, covering all aspects of life in this mountain community.

Anyway here are some of my own snaps of the morning last Sunday at San Cassiano.