Santa Claus is Coming to our Town!

Are you already deep in preparations for the Christmas festivities or are you instead trying to avoid what you feel is humbug? (No matter…like Scrooge you’ll change….I hope).

In the area around Bagni di Lucca seasonal festivities are in full swing.  Festive lighting is springing up and the traditional presepe Christmas crib is appearing not only in its customary sites but also in new ones. Such is the case with the Fornoli presepe, near our vet, with its life-size statues supplied by the Fontanelli firm which has specialised in figurines for well over a century. I took pictures of it during the day.

And the scene is even more picturesque in the evening.

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(Photo courtesy Marco Nicoli)

This week-end starting at 10 this Saturday 14 December until Sunday evening there’s la ‘Valle di Santa’.  Santa Claus will land in Bagni di Lucca and for two days he will take up residence in the Villa Webb in the old part of Villa at the terme. There children can meet him and give him their letters. Meanwhile, the streets of the town will be filled with craft, food and wine market stands. There also be  several street artists. As always, entry to Santa’s House is free.

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Also starting this Saturday on December 7th it’s time for the third walk among the one hundred nativity scenes at Montefegatesi, our highest (at altitude 2762 feet) village. It’s part of the ‘Valle dei Presepi’ program. Actually, last year there were more than one hundred and eighty presepi! See my account of this amazing display last year at https://longoio3.com/2018/12/10/christnas-cribs-here-there-and-everywhere/.

The Montefegatesi day starts at 11 am with the opening of food and wine stands and Christmas markets. One can taste delicious local delicacies in a heated tent. At 3 pm Santa Claus arrives. At 4.00 pm there’s a procession with Christmas carols all the up to the Dante monument to place the Infant Jesus in the highest crib of the Commune. A flight of lanterns will take off into the skies accompanied by the reading of some poems by local poet Egeo Bartoli.

If you miss the show don’t worry; the cribs will be on display until 6 January.

The living crib at Pieve di Monte di Villa was postponed from last Sunday to this Sunday 8th December because of bad weather. This time the met has set the day as fair and so it should be after all the catastrophic rainfall we’ve been getting every day since the end of October! This living presepe is shared among three enterprising villages in our comune: Granaiola, Monti di Villa and Pieve di Monti di Villa, This year it’s the latter who will have the honour of hosting the event. It’ll have a hard task to beat last year’s display at Monti di Villa which I described in my post at https://longoio3.com/2018/12/03/a-living-christmas-in-the-appenines/

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Do leave your car at the Villa Fiori car park at Ponte a Serraglio and take the shuttle bus there in order to avoid clogging up the narrow roads!

It’s also time for the next concert in the ‘Incontri Musicali – i luoghi del bello e della cultura’ series. This one takes place on Sunday 8th December at 5.15 PM at Valdottavo’s Colombo theatre and features the “The Wagons” ensemble playing an original selection of music by seven composers from the four corner of the world and devised by Girolamo Deraco and Alessandro Sesti.  Knowing the quality of the last three concerts (the only ones, unfortunately I was able to attend) I am really looking forwards to being present at this one!

There is a panoply of other events coinciding with these in our valley but unfortunately (or not?) we can’t all be cloned so I’ve only chosen the above as being the most representative of this weather-wisely superb opening to Christmas season. I hope that those of you here will be able to make it to some of them and support our valley’s truly remarkable creative initiatives.

 

 

Remembering a Woman’s Murder at Bagni di Lucca

On the afternoon of Tuesday 7th December 2010 in Via Contessa Casalini, the street which surrounds Bagni di Lucca’s Casalini gardens, near the church of the Sacred Heart and by the entrance of the driveway leading to a doctors’ surgery, Cala Perez Kaliannys, a 27-year-old Cuban girl, who was taking a walk with her cousin, was killed with nine pistol shots. First, two shots were fired into her chest; then another seven were released when Cala Perez was already on the ground and practically lifeless. A skinny young man wearing a leather jacket was seen walking away after the shooting. Meanwhile, on the other side of the gardens children were leaving the local school at the end of their classes. The local police quickly rushed in to protect them telling those outside to immediately lie down flat.

The search began for Cala’s presumed killer, Leonard Grifsha, a twenty-six year old Albanian construction worker employed by a Ponte a Serraglio company. Carabinieri from all stations in the Serchio valley were mobilised and, coordinated from centres at Lucca and Castelnuovo Garfagnana, to search for the killer, who had had a relationship with the victim in the past months.

Friends and acquaintances were questioned and, overnight, checkpoints set up along the main roads to and from the Garfagnana. The army at San Marcello Pistoiese also joined in along the mountain area leading to Abetone on the Brennero road. The search continued, too, around Lucca with considerable numbers being involved.

Three days later, on 7th December, Leonard Grifsha was captured as he tried to pick up his belongings in Ponte a Serraglio and confessed to the murder. In all probability Grifsha was preparing to escape to Albania. At the time of capture he was unarmed. Grifsha told the Carabinieri, however, that he had thrown the gun in the Lima River. A search for the murder weapon was made but I’m not sure whether it was ever found.
For three days and three nights Grifsha had hidden in the woods behind my house at Longoio where someone may have given him shelter from the bad weather. According to the carabinieri’s investigations, the Albanian had been trained in Germany as a paramilitary and had even fought in Afghanistan so he would have been used to roughing it in all conditions.

Grifsha fully collaborated with Lucca’s Public Prosecutor Salvatore Giannino, and was assisted by his lawyer Luca Cantini. He was then taken to the San Giorgio prison in Lucca. A trial followed and the murderer was condemned to life imprisonment.

What was the motive for the murder? It was mainly because Cala had refused to continue her relationship with Grifsha and also because, apparently, Cala had been receiving money from the Albanian to buy a flat in Florence which, however, she was sending back to her relatives in Cuba.

Cala, born and bred in a country we have visited and love but which we realize is quite impoverished because of US sanctions, had met a friend of ours from Bagni in Cuba. He fell in love with her, and she grabbed the opportunity of his offer of marriage to escape to a more prosperous country like Italy. Our friend paid for the considerable cost of the wedding (which was quietly questioned among some of our friend’s relatives).

Cala already had a son from a previous relationship and brought him along with her to Bagni di Lucca where he was entered at the local school.  He has since turned into a very personable young man who we met since his step-father lives in the same house where we used to visit Sam Stych, a retired librarian and world Boccaccio authority, originally from Birmingham, and who died in 2018 at the age of 101. Indeed, Cala’s son was very helpful towards Sam in several ways, for example, sorting out his television channels, helping with his meals and dressing him.

Our friend confirmed that Cala, his separated wife with whom, however, he remained on good terms, had been threatened by the Albanian and that she was afraid, but had not had the courage to report the situation to the Carabinieri for fear of reprisals.

And that is the problem. So many women, particularly in Italy which has one of the highest feminicide rates of the world – six hundred in the past four years – with an average of one woman murdered by a jealous husband/partner every other day (and showing little sign of diminishing) are scared of denouncing their cruel companions for fear of reprisals. There are so many cases where, even if a woman denounces her partner’s abuse, the police take little action and the social services are not always as prompt as they could be. Regrettably, the UK can hardly be held up as a good example of what to do in these terrible situations: I heard recently on the news that a violent husband, who had been imprisoned, was not only released before the completion of his sentence but also was returned the house keys by the police: he promptly returned to the family home and murdered his wife.

Without in any way mitigating the circumstances of the tragic event that occurred in Bagni di Lucca nine years ago it is clear to me that putting a woman brought up in the more easy-going mores of a country like Cuba together with a man bred in a world where honour and shame ruled supreme in a patriarchal world was asking for trouble if the relationship soured. However, Bagni di Lucca did not expect anything as awful as what happened. I remember being interviewed by national television and as I was eating my pizza at a local bar finding myself on screen. (I just said that the whole of Bagni di Lucca was shocked at the event.)

Last year Bagni di Lucca comune decided to place a now iconic red bench, symbolising the blood spilt by the murder of women by their possessive men, near to the spot where Cala was assassinated.

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Last month on the day dedicated to the memory of these women the red bench was inaugurated by the mayor who in his speech stated that Bagni’s municipal administration would spare no efforts in the fight against violence on women and is cooperating with associations helping to prevent such crimes and offering protection to the victims.

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A further initiative regarding violence on women will be the installation of another red bench, on December 9, in Montefegatesi; the same day when the village’s now famous the nativity scenes will be opened to the public. That is, indeed, I feel a fitting coincidence: the mother of the baby Jesus could be no better patron for those in search of a solution to a terrible and deep-seated cultural and psychological problem which invests the world well beyond the boundaries of Bagni di Lucca.

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I would finally add that Cala’s Facebook page still remains, not so much as a consciously memorial page but one which is yet more poignant since it suddenly stops at that fateful day in 2010 with a comment in Spanish.

‘descansa en paz’ – which translates as ‘rest in peace.

Thanks to a major campaign organised by the Croce Rossa to collect funds, Cala was returned to her country of birth and lies buried in Cuba where her grave is regularly visited by her relatives and her ex-husband.

cala

https://www.facebook.com/kaliannys.perez

 

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Good Day Sunshine?

It’s been raining daily and often non-stop in most of Italy since All Souls day which was commemorated at the end of last October. Venice has been flooded out by the highest tide seen in years, Liguria is on its knees with landslides and interrupted communications, thousands have been made homeless: the cost of this meteorological and social disaster is of unquantifiable magnitude.

The fact that much of my electrical equipment has been knocked out thanks to our house being struck by lightning and that my washing hasn’t had a chance to dry itself in weeks pales in comparison to the difficulty so many Italians have had to put up with.

If someone still doesn’t think it’s all due to global warming or, at least, thinks that the remedies put in place to combat climatic change are sufficient should think again before they are forced to wear wet suit and aqua lungs for the rest of their lives.

 

Today comes as a morning of respite. That warm golden glow on the last of the autumn leaves is called sunshine and it is most welcome. Perhaps today the washing will finally find its place in the storage cupboard.

Meanwhile, another ‘perturbazione’ (as the Italians name their weather front), this time of a political nature, is due to hit those islands known as Ultima Thule to the conquerors that set out from these lands to conquer it: the ancient Romans.

What will be the outcome if that winter wonder of a general election of December twelfth is lost to reason and sanity?

What if brexitisis cannot find a cure for its cancerous growth over the body politic?

The UK parliament has already rejected a Brexit deal four times: just because the Irish border has now been changed from a land to a sea one is not much of a change…

British citizens will no longer have a voice in European laws and regulations but will still have to respect he EU’s decisions and pay EU tariffs.

British citizens will no longer have control over borders and immigration as they have at present, but will have to obtain permits and visas from those countries hosting non-EU immigrants who remain in the EU. And as for their health care arrangements with the EU….god forbid they should ever get ill!

The UK will lose its entire car production destined for foreign countries, and a third of manufacturing, and probably a large part of its financial business in the City (which is already being transferred to Frankfurt).

In return Brits find themselves living in a divided and misguided country with an electorate full of unrealistic expectations, a discredited political class and a parliamentary democracy ridiculed throughout the world.

Johnson the PM is a regular item of fun on Italian TV with his several comic look-alikes.

Of course, there will be quite a few who will want to follow Britain on this path.
Hurry up now to join the brexiteers and avoid the queues!

(Although you’ll get them big-time, if the leavers have their way, at such beauty spot as Stansted and Gatwick.)

Ah well..it’ll soon be Christmas…

(Our offering to the Italian ‘presepe’ -Christmas crib – this year).