Un Puccini Sconosciuto


Un recital della musica di Giacomo Puccini per pianoforte? Sembra assurdo quasi quanto un recital delle arie d’opera di Chopin. Ma non del tutto…. poiché Puccini aveva un rapporto intimo con il pianoforte. Sebbene non fosse un pianista professionista (al conservatorio ebbe solo un anno di lezioni sullo strumento prima di passare all’organo che la sua famiglia pensava sarebbe stato il suo lavoro principale – come organista nelle chiese di Lucca) Puccini aveva una visione ferma sul tipo di strumento che piaceva suonare. Diceva che doveva essere sonoro, quasi orchestrale nel tono. Steinway sarebbe diventato il suo preferito: grande, pieno delle dinamiche più varie e la famosa fotografia del figlio più famoso di Lucca al pianoforte mostre proprio questo strumento.


Per Giacomo Puccini il pianoforte era principalmente un mezzo per raggiungere una fine: un modo per toccare negli ambienti domestici la visione sonora dei suoi capolavori operistici. Mi viene in mente come poco prima della morte del maestro, cento anni fa (ecco perché ora è particolarmente celebrato), Puccini suonò il finale di “Turandot”, la sua ultima opera incompleta, a un caro amico nello studio seminterrato della sua nuova villa a Viareggio. Peccato che nessuno abbia registrato ciò che ha suonato…ma del resto era ben prima dell’era degli smart telefonini!


È vero che gran parte della musica per pianoforte di Puccini è costituita da trascrizioni fatte dalla sua opera operistica: alcune quasi letterali, altre pot-pourri. Tra questi però ci sono brani scritti originariamente per pianoforte.


Il concerto tenutosi recentemente nello splendido casinò progettato da Pardini a Bagni di Lucca, inaugurato nel 1839 con un recital pianistico tenuto niente meno che da Franz Liszt (!), è stata la prima esecuzione completa della musica pianistica di Puccini: una prima assoluta infatti e una che includeva diversi brani scoperti di recente e mai ascoltati prima. Questo concerto è stato il secondo in una serie di tre che hanno proposto la musica meno conosciuta di Puccini. Il primo consisteva di musica corale religiosa e fu tenuto nella chiesa di Corsena dove il compositore scrisse uno dei suoi pezzi giovanili, la ‘Vexilla’.


Il secondo concerto è stato introdotto dal professor Marcello Cherubini, infaticabile presidente dell’associazione culturale di Bagni di Lucca, la Fondazione Michel de Montaigne. Il Prof. Virgilio Bernardoni, un’autorità mondiale nel campo della musica pianistica di Puccini, ha poi tenuto davanti al pubblico molto seguito un discorso approfondito sul rapporto di Puccini con il pianoforte.


Questo era il programma;

La musica per pianoforte di Puccini può essere convenientemente suddivisa in tre fasi. Il primo è costituito da opere giovanili ed esercizi accademici. Questi mostrano un sapore rococò molto simile allo stile dei suoi predecessori del XVIII secolo. Sono affascinanti, passano il tempo. Si potrebbe dire poco altro ma, anche in questo caso, il primo trionfo di Puccini con la sua opera “Manon Lescaut”, ambientata nell’età dell’Illuminismo, dimostra quanto sia stato utile per lui padroneggiare quello stile antiquato.
La fuga che seguì dimostrò che il maestro poteva dare il massimo in questo tipo di composizione molto difficile. Ancora una volta questa disciplina si dimostrò molto utile nel suo primo capolavoro ecclesiastico, la “Messa a Quattro Voci”, che gli valse la laurea e una carriera apparentemente seria come compositore ecclesiastico.


Il recital della pianista veramente eccellente ed idiomatica, Silvia Gasperini, ha poi esplorato la seconda fase principale della vita creativa di Puccini. Un grande valzer, ‘a la maniere’ di Johann Strauss, ci ha dato un’indicazione di come Giacomo avrebbe deliziato il suo pubblico durante le riunioni da ballo intime e alla moda. Il “piccolo valzer” è stato scritto dopo la capricciosa effusione di Musetta nel secondo atto de “La Boheme” o l’ha preceduta?


“Scossa Elettrica”, la piccola marcia vivace composta per un concorso che coinvolgeva uno stuolo di telegrafiste (e, per inciso, continua a essere una delle preferite dalle bande locali nei villaggi della Lucchesia in forma trascritta), si è rivelata l’elemento più difficile da suonare. È stato anche molto divertente: si dice che Puccini l’abbia descritta come “una sciocchezza”!


L’ultimo periodo del limitato ma molto indicativo repertorio pianistico del maestro si è concluso con alcuni brani sentiti, scritti appena un paio d’anni prima della sua prematura scomparsa causata dal fumare cinquanta sobrainie al giorno fin dall’adolescenza. Con le loro ambiguità armoniche e cadenze irrisolte dimostrano che Puccini era attento alle nuove correnti musicali, soprattutto a quelle provenienti dalla scuola impressionista francese.


Questo non è stato certamente un concerto paragonabile a un recital di Schumann o Brahms per lo stesso strumento. Ha dimostrato, tuttavia, che Puccini era pienamente consapevole delle possibilità del pianoforte, pur non essendo un virtuoso nello strumento, che trovò utile principalmente nella creazione dei suoi capolavori operistici che sopravviveranno finché i nostri il mondo torturato sopravvive.

Attendiamo con tanto piacere l’ultimo concerto della serie: la musica di Puccini per organo che avrà luogo alla chiesa monumentale di San Cassiano il 22 giugno alle ore 17.30.

Puccini Party-Pieces?

A recital of Giacomo Puccini’s music for the piano? It sounds almost as absurd as a recital of Chopin’s operatic arias. But not quite…. for Puccini had an intimate relationship with the piano. Although not a professional pianist (at the conservatoire he only had a year’s tuition on the instrument before changing to the organ which his family assumed would be his main job – as organist to Lucca’s churches) Puccini had firm views on the kind of instrument he wanted to play. He said that it must be sonorous, almost orchestral in tone. Steinways were to become his favourite: big, full of the most varied dynamics. For Lucca’s most famous composer the piano was principally a means to an end: a way of touching in domestic surroundings the sound-vision of his operatic masterpieces. I am reminded here of how shortly before the maestro’s death one hundred years ago (that’s why he’s particularly celebrated now) Puccini played the ending to ‘Turandot’, his last, incompleted opera, to a close friend in the basement studio of his new villa at Viareggio. Pity no-one recorded what he played…but then it was well before the age of smart telefonini!


It’s true to say that a large chunk of Puccini’s piano music consists of transcriptions made from his operatic oevre: some almost literal, others pot-pourris. However, among these there are pieces originally written for piano.


The concert given yesterday in Bagni di Lucca’s splendid Pardini-designed casino, inaugurated in 1839 with a piano recital given by none other than Franz Liszt (!), was the first time Puccini’s piano music was performed complete: a world premiere in fact and one which included several recently discovered pieces never heard before.

The concert was introduced by Professor Marcello Cherubini, the indefatigable chairman of Bagni di Lucca’s cultural association, the Fondazione Michel de Montaigne. Prof Virgilio Bernardoni, a world authority on Puccini’s piano music then gave the very well attended audience an insightful talk on Puccini’s relationship with the piano.

This was the programme;


Puccini’s piano music can conveniently be divided into three phases. The first consists of juvenile works and academic exercises. These show a rococo-like flavour much in the style of his eighteenth century predecessors. They are charming, they while away the time. Little more one might say but, there again, Puccini’s first triumph with his opera ‘Manon Lescaut’, set in the age of Enlightenment, show how useful it had been for him to master that out-moded style.
The fugue which followed showed that the maestro can pull out all the stops regarding this most difficult type of composition. Again his discipline proved very useful in his early church masterpiece, the ‘Messa a Quattro Voci’ which won him his graduation and a seemingly staid career as an ecclesiastical composer.

The recital by the truly excellent and most idiomatic pianist Silvia Gasperini continued into the second main phase of Puccini’s creative life. A grand waltz, a la maniere of Johnann Strauss gave us an indication of how Giacomo would have delighted his audiences at fashionably intimate ballroom gatherings. Was the ‘little waltz’ written after Musetta’s capricious outpouring in ‘La Boheme’ act two, or did it precede it?


‘Scossa Elettrica’, the lively little march composed for a competition involving a bevy of female telegraphists (and, incidentally, a continuing favourite with our local village bands in Italy in its transcribed form), proved to be the most difficult item to play for our pianist. Great fun it was too: ‘a crappy trifle’ Puccini is reported to have said about it!


The final period of the maestro’s limited but very indicative repertoire of music for the piano concluded with some heart-felt items, one written just a couple of years before his untimely death caused by smoking fifty gold-tipped sobrainies a day from teenage years. With their harmonic ambiguities and unsolved cadences they showed that Puccini was alert to new musical currents, especially those coming from the French impressionist school.


This was certainly not a concert to compare with a Schumann or Brahms recital for the same instrument. It showed, however, that Puccini was fully aware of the possibilities of the piano and was equally, while not a virtuoso, an adept hand at the instrument which he mainly found useful in the creation of his operatic masterpieces which will survive as long as our tortured world survives.

Our Local Wesak Celebrations

Last week we received an invitation from our local Bhikkhu (Buddhist monk: the word also means ‘beggar’ thus underlining the ideal of non-attachment Bhikkus practice) to attend festivities in honour of the Buddha’s birthday at their little temple at Ponte a Moriano. Also known as Wesak this is the most important of the Buddhist festivals and is celebrated on the full moon in May. In 2024 Wesak officially takes place on 23 May but since most people are working in Italy it was celebrated yesterday, the 19th of May.

Wesak commemorates not only the birth of Prince Siddhartha Gautama at Lumbini in Nepal (sometime between the 6th and the 4th century BC) but also his enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. Unfortunately Ponte a Moriano’s own Bodhi tree (Ficus Religiosa) seemed a bit threadbare this year.

My thoughts went back to the time when I sat under the (supposedly) original Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya during my hippy escapade.

The birth of the Enlightened One is commemorated in different ways in different Buddhist countries. In Ponte Moriano with its Buddhist community largely coming from Sri Lanka it’s celebrated by particular religious observances and offerings.

We arrived at a nicely decorated temple precinct and assembly hall with candles and paper, bamboo-framed lanterns. 

We placed our little offering of a potted yellow flower to the Buddha in the temple which was attended by three Bhikkhus.

We then went outside and sat ourselves under a decorated pavilion where we had a tasty lunch known as a Dansalas which means the free offering of food and drink to people. It consisted of red and white rice, lentils, aubergines and fish and, this being Italy, was finished off with gelato and fruit salad.

The stage was then decorated with the statues of Buddha transported from the temple.

The congregation offered birthday presents to the Buddha consisting largely of rice and clothing. One lady said to us she spent more fifty Euros on her present.

Devotional songs known as Bakthi Gee then followed led by a Bhikkhu whose warm voice lulled me to a particularly ecstatic trance.

Children and ladies then entered the stage to sing. No knowing Sinhala I was unable to fully follow the words but they were devotional in tone and offered praise to Gautama.

Thus ended our Buddhist birthday. It was a sweet way to spend a Sunday afternoon in the peaceful surroundings of Ponte and we would like to thank our Bhikkhu for his kind invitation.

The Triple Arts

Yesterday, at Bagni di Lucca’s Casino, the world’s first purpose-built gambling hall, luxuriant with its spread of gold fleur-de-lys set against azure walls, another gamble took place, this time with the surest probability that all participants would win. The ‘Borgo degli Artisti’, the town’s association of artists was re-established and came vividly back into view after some years when it had been disbanded because key players had sadly left the area.

To celebrate this important occasion the three arts of music, poetry and painting combined to create a memorable afternoon.

Music inaugurated with the solo violin of young Elias who has made remarkable progress at Florence’s Cherubini conservatoire. The son of our local handyman, he interspersed the events with pieces ranging from ‘Over the Rainbow’ to a Bach sonata and a Paganini capriccio. Knowing some of these pieces myself, I fully realised the problem of intonation when double-stopping and performing bow acrobatics. I look forward to hearing more from our town’s budding talent.

Poetry was represented by Mara Mucini’s second poetry collection titled ‘Pensieri’. I shared the recent course in creative writing with Mara and realized that she is equally brilliant in writing prose. Her poems are characterised by their disarming directness of expression with a touching honesty and a subtle use of metaphor. It’s easy to write floridly but to shake off the purple prose and feel things as they really are ‘on the pulse’ requires a courageous honesty which Mara has in abudance. They need not only to be read but re-read!

Natalia Sereni was the presenter and a select number of the audience, all poets in their own ‘write’, were asked to read out one of Mara’s poems and make a little comment on it. I felt flattered that I too was asked to contribute.

After the readings we had time to view the artists’ paintings and drawings placed around the Casino’s principal room.

Albert Beach has a long tradition of gracing Bagni di Lucca with his often playful and always colourful pictures and prints. His theme for the exhibition centered around village streets and churches. I enjoyed Albert’s dexterity and feeling for the vernacular architecture of these delightful locations.

Deenagh Miller moves into darker landscapes with her virtuoso touch. Yet here too she captures with sure aim of her often calligraphic pen and almost Fauvist use of colour the essence of so many Italian landscapes. Her creations often allude not only to places but to historical artists’ creations whether they be Piranesi or Michelangelo.

I once attended a course Morena Guarnaschelli gave on drawing mandalas and, thus, immediately connected to her contributions to the show. A consummate watercolourist with an innate sense of structure ,Morena’s use of geometric shapes interweaved with the human face is riveting.

I remember Anna Darlington’s work from the time of the now mythic Bagni di Lucca’s Arts Festival which ran for three consecutive years in the previous decade. In particular I recollect a painting of the sea which was constantly changing as the artist added further memes referring to the never ending number of refugees drowning in the waves of an unrelenting ocean. Anne’s political message underwrites her latest creations in the deep, often dark, colours and in her barren, lonely land and seascapes.

Jenny McIntosh has changed her artistic impulses from painting to sculpture. I think this is a wise move since her better paintings already had a sculpture quality about them. Her heads could connect with some of the details I chanced across when travelling to the Angkor Wat a few years ago or, alternatively, as some wag remarked, be used as book-ends.

TYMO’s installation incorporating inanimate every-day objects into a 3-D twilight-scape was enigmatic to me. Or was this meant to be its puzzling message?

All-in-all the event was dazzling in its profusion of talent. Bagni di Lucca may be a small place of little more than 6000 inhabitants but the amount of creative energy contained within its mountainous confines is remarkable! I wish every good luck to the town’s happily refounded artistic association for a continued future and nurturing of new talent.

Puccini times Five

2024 is a year to remember for lovers of opera throughout the world. One hundred years ago one of the most popular composers of this often lavish and exotic art form died from an unsuccessful operation for his throat cancer (he was a fifty-a-day person for most of his life) at a Brussels clinic.


Lucca, Puccini’s birthplace, is celebrating its enviable cultural export with a panoply of events.


Our town of Bagni di Lucca is also commemorating this universal composer whose music speaks to all feeling hearts.


This beautiful place nestling in the Tuscan Apennines, has ever been a haunt for those in quest of its miraculous waters. From mediaeval countesses to illuminist philosophers to romantic poets guests have included Matilda di Canossa, Montagne, Byron, Shelley, Heine and Elisa Bonaparte.


Giacomo Puccini was also a guest here. As a penniless student he came to earn a crust of bread playing the piano for dances at the casino. Indeed Puccini’s first commission and his debut as a composer came thanks to our local chemist.
To celebrate this Bagni di Lucca is presenting a series of three concerts, one each for Puccini’s choral, organ and piano music respectively.


Yesterday afternoon our local cultural association, the Michel De Montaigne Foundation held the first one.

The concert opened with ‘Beata Viscera’, for two female voices, which Giacomo composed in 1875, dedicating it to his sister Iginia who had become a nun that year. The very short composition was only found last year in the Lucca archives by Aldo Berti and ascribed to Giacomo Puccini. Yesterday was its first modern performance. ‘Beata Viscera’ is a slight piece but its simple lyricism foretells what is to come.


The motet ‘Vexilla Regis Prodeunt’ followed. Dating from1878 it was commissioned by local chemist Adelson Betti who was also organist of our parish church of San Pietro of Corsena. The young Puccini received a supper with the Betti chemist’s family, his train fare and a slice of chestnut cake for his efforts. We have sung this piece with our local choir in the church at Corsena for which it was destined. The second part of the motet’s ternary form appealed to me but otherwise I was unimpressed by its often cheesy harmonies.


The third piece was the ‘Salve Regina’, for soprano and organ, composed in 1883 on a text by Antonio Ghislanzoni, Verdi’s librettist and bohemian poet. It cannot be defined as a piece of sacred music since the text is not liturgical but described as a sacred poem. The composition was also considered by its composer to be suitable for inclusion in his first opera, the one acter ‘Le Villi’.


The Mass for strings, four solos, choir and orchestra, written in 1735 by Giacomo Puccini senior, founder of the Puccini musical family line, formed the largest piece in the concert. Its performance here was intended as a tribute to a dynasty of musicians active in Lucca for five generations. Indeed starting with Giacomo Puccini Senior and rather like other musical families, in particular Bach’s, music remained the principal career for Puccini’s family until 1924.


In this Vivaldian-style composition, a Missa Brevis consisting of only Kyrie and Gloria, the great-great-grandfather of opera composer Giacomo, demonstrates in my opinion, amazing mastery of baroque musical language with lively arias, impressive choral fugues and creative instrumental accompaniments. Indeed Giacomo Senior can now be certainly recognized as among the best Italian composers of the late baroque period just as it was merging into the classic Mozart-Haydn period. Kapellmeister of the Serenissima Republic of Lucca, and known throughout Italy, Giacomo Senior made use of the services of excellent local musicians who were joined, on special occasions, by professionals from other regions and duchies of an Italy prior to its unification.

(The Giacomo Puccini Senior Mass – second half)


It was just as well that the programme was rearranged to include the Mass as the next-to-last piece. To have performed it at the start, though chronologically apt, would have unduly brought out the jejunesse of opera-Puccini’s early church compositions.


The concert closed with the Requiem, for choir, organ and solo viola, which Giacomo Puccini, operatic composer, wrote in 1905 at the request of the publisher Ricordi on the occasion of the fourth anniversary of Giuseppe Verdi’s death. I found it a very heartfelt, moving piece, a true masterpiece with a touching viola solo played by Caterina Mancini..


The concert performers included the Santa Felicita di Lucca String Quintet (Alberto Bologni and Valeria Barsanti, violins; Caterina Mancini, viola; Francesca Gaddi, cello; Gabriele Ragghianti, double bass). Daniele Boccaccio played the organ. The choir was the Nova Harmonia vocal ensemble under choir master Paola Vincenti. Soloists were Nunzia Fazzi soprano, Michela Mazzanti contralto, Adriano Gulino tenor, Nicola Farnesi bass. The conductor was Giorgio Fazzi. The artistic director was Silvano Pieruccini.

All-in-all the performers were well up to the task of letting the audience hear this rarely music to a high standard. (This in spite of a dramatic moment during the Puccini Senior Mass when a choir member fainted with a resounding thud on the platform and the performance had to be paused. Fortunately he was all right and the Mass was able to continue.) All soloists were excellent, the female ones particularly so and the strings were good.

Swiss Paint and Sound

What was it like to be a woman painter in the eighteenth century? Perhaps the image of a decorator comes up in the mind of some males as if women were only good at formulating colour schemes for a new apartment. Here, however, we are dealing with one of the finest professional portrait and history painters who also happened to be a founder member of the Royal Academy. Moreover she was not even British but Swiss. Angelica Kauffman was born in Chur in 1741 and died in Rome in 1807 and came from a relatively poor family. Her father was a good muralist and his travels for work in central Europe enabled Angelica to pick up not only his skills but also four languages.

Not only in the visual arts but also in music Angelica started to excel: she was a good musician and singer but gave up opera when a priest told her it was a ‘seedy’ profession. Later in life Kauffman depicted this difficult choice in her life in the following allegorical painting:

When Angelica was sixteen her mother died and she and her father moved to Italy where she became a member of Florence’s Accademia delle Belle Arti. In Rome Angelica met the British community there and her portraits of them became popular. So popular in fact that she decided to come to the United Kingdom accompanied by the wife of the British ambassador. In London Angelica became friends with Sir Joshua Reynolds and through him was one of the founder members of the Royal Academy, the only woman member, apart from the celebrated painter Mary Moser, to be a Royal Academician until the twentieth century.

Although Angelica’s portraits of friends and notables were (and continue to be highly prized) with their incisive, harmonious and vivid colours combined with a multi-layered application of paint she regarded herself primarily as a painter of historical subjects such as the ones shown here:

Disappointed at the apparent lack of interest in these Kauffman moved to Rome. Her move was also prompted by two incidents. First was a satirical painting referring to her relationship with Reynolds which she managed to have withdrawn from a Royal Academy exhibition. Second was her short marriage to an impostor who tried to grab her money. (Later in life Kauffman remarried, this time happily.)

In Rome Angelica continued her professional career as a painter and befriended many cultivated persons including Goethe and Winkelman some of whose portraits she painted.

Angelica Kauffman’s funeral was a grand affair arranged by neoclassical sculptor Canova, recently the subject of a fine exhibition at Lucca’s Cavallerizza. Indeed, Angelica can herself be regarded as a neoclassical artist especially with regard to her historical canvases and the poses of the figures in her paintings which are inspired by ancient sculptures.

I was able to make up my own mind regarding Angela Kauffman’s artistry at the current Royal Academy’s exhibition on her. Visiting the two rooms containing both her portraits and history paintings and including engraved prints of her work which proved very popular during her lifetime I was suitably seduced by Angelica’s skills in portraying her sitters whether they be the nobility or Lady Hamilton or that great classical scholar Winkelmann, murdered in Rome aged fifty in 1768 by his gay lover.

Angelica Kauffman’s historical pictures showed her virtuosity in depicting anatomy (how could she as a woman have attended life classes at the R.A. in the eighteenth century?) and composing complex groups of personages. However, lacking deeper knowledge of the subjects presented, I found Angelica’s portraits much more interesting. Already I could envisage the transition from the Baroque to a lighter Rococo style and even the hints of an impeding proto romanticism in the more fluid brush-strokes.

What a woman! I thought. Beauty and brains combined in Angelica. Her character was apparently full of charm but also ambitious. She needed to be in an age when women had to be at least twice, if not three times, as good as men in carrying out their profession. It was a truly worthwhile visit to this Swiss painter’s oeuvre especially since so many of her paintings are in private collections and, therefore, not normally accessible to the general public.

It was a happy coincidence that Switzerland had already appeared on our cultural horizon a couple of days previously at an organ concert given in the church of Saint Margaret Lothbury by Marc Fitze, titular organist at the HeiliggeistKirche in Berne. On one of the finest classical organs in London, built by George Pike England in 1801, Fitze performed a very attractive repertoire ranging from Biber and Galuppi to Lefebure-Wely and Liszt. The concluding piece by romantic composer Jacques Vogt was a Fantasie-orage ‘Scène champetre’ depicting a storm over lake Lucerne. For this piece some stops, by means only known to organists, had their wind-intake modified to imitate the sound of mountain goats. It was all quite charming and realistic! Meanwhile, we are promised more thunderstorms over London today in what promises to be another disappointing Bank holiday.

By Way of Kensal Green

Until the Victorian age burials of the dead in London took place in local churchyards; there were no provision for inhumation in dedicated cemeteries. Meanwhile, overcrowding of corpses in limited spaces created excellent opportunities for diseases and epidemics. Water supplies became polluted and the rat population prospered on the increased opportunities for feeding on churchyard decompositions. Moreover, because of increasing demand for dissection samples to be used in the city’s hospitals, the digging up and stealing of human remains provided an excellent means of employment for a nifty criminal fraternity known wittily as the ‘resurrectionists’.

Clearly something had to change, particularly in an age when London’s population was rapidly expanding. A parliamentary commission was sent to Paris and visited the new Père Lachaise cemetery, which has since become one of the French capital’s most evocative sites. Pleasantly surprised by the mortuary hygiene and posthumous elegance provided by a purpose-built burial ground the committee decided on a similar one for London.

The result was the Burial Act of 1832 which required new burial grounds in a list of urban parishes of London to be approved by the Secretary of State and enabled the closure of metropolitan churchyards to new interments making regulations regarding correct burial. This legislation led to the metropolis’ first modern cemetery: Kensal Green. Others followed in the capital. Between 1833 and 1841 West Norwood CemeteryHighgate CemeteryAbney Park CemeteryBrompton CemeteryNunhead Cemetery, and Tower Hamlets Cemetery were established. They are now collectively known as the ‘Magnificent Seven’, both because they are indeed wonderful in their extent and faded grandeur and also because for me they remind one of the now sadly deceased cast of that fine western (modelled after a Japanese original) starring Yul Brynner.

We were privileged last Sunday to join a visit to Kensal Green cemetery, a visit organised by the Friends of this Grade One listed monument.

We saw the tombs of the great and the good whether they be writers like Thackeray or musicians like Cipriani Potter (named after an ancestor of my wife) or engineers like the Brunels father and son.

What particularly attracted me were the graves of James Hogg, friend of Shelley and co-author with him of the pamphlet for Atheism which got both of them sent down from Oxford, and his lovely wife Jane Hogg to whom Shelley dedicated several poems including the one addressed ‘To a Lady with a Guitar.’

Unlike the manicured layout and the highly restored tombs of our local Bagni di Lucca ‘English’. cemetery Kendal Green displays the archetypal decayed, moss covered , ivy, hanging burial ground. I felt this was the true atmosphere a cemetery containing the putrefaction of human flesh should have.

We passed fine statuary, monuments and chapels built in a variety of styles ranging from ancient Egyptian to Hellenic to Gothic to Neo-Platonism classical.

We entered into the sequestered gloom of the catacombs with the hope that none there might have been prematurely buried and that all measures would have been taken to prevent this horrible way to die from ever occurring. Would there have been any consumptive maidens unwrapped from yellowed winding sheets presumed expired before their day had really come, their broken nails dug into the dark wood of a sepulchral door with scratches blotched in blood? For if in Space no-one can hear you scream it is the same story if you are buried deep within the cold marble of a sepulchre!

Finally we encountered, for us,the most moving of all sights in Kensal Green Cemetery. We saw the cremation plaque to my wife’s beloved parents, my indulgent in-laws without whom I would have been unable to hold the soft hand by my side or to kiss those sweetest of lips. Requiescant in Pacem!

It is, indeed, a sobering thought to wander through a cemetery. Arising from cosmic dust through love we must all return to earthly dust through the pathway of death. More than ever before, listening to the profusion of birds singing their soul out and the scampering of foxes in the grass of the wilder parts of the cemetery, my senses awakened to the joy of being still alive, the bliss of at last walking in the first sunlit day London has had for some time, of being with a loved one by my side, of tasting the gift a greater one than I has given and that one just on loan until the final day on this planet arrives to find – one no one knows where, no one knows when – the moment where we go we know not where except that we know we shall never return to Kensal Green to walk it as we did today.


Not such a Flaming May

“She lies there curled up asleep like a comfortable feline, radiant in the golden light of a late summer afternoon. Luscious drapery enfolds her perfect body, so delicate that the sinews of her curves can almost be touched. Behind her an incandescent Mediterranean Sea glistens under the torrid sun’s rays. To the right an oleander flower teases with both beauty and death for in its blossom is a deadly poison.”


So began my post on this most alluring of all Victorian ‘academic’ paintings: ‘Flaming June’ by Lord Leighton when it returned in 2016 for a visit to the studio where he painted one year before his death in 1895.


Flaming June is now back on loan to the Royal Academy from her home in Puerto Rico’s art gallery while it is being rebuilt after the island’s disastrous 2020 earthquake.


In the same room on the opposite wall there’s another painting which relates to Flaming June in two ways. It’s a tondo, or composition in a rounded format, by one of the greatest of all artists, Michelangelo.

Firstly. Leighton’s painting is also a ‘tondo’ in the way its subject’s design is in a rounded format.

Secondly, Leighton was inspired by the pose of Michelangelo’s statue of Night on Lorenzo de’Medici’s new sacristy tomb at San Lorenzo church in Florence – a statue we viewed only last month on our visit to Michaelangelo’s secret room which we described in our post at https://longoio3.com/2024/03/28/michaelangelos-secret-room/


On this somewhat murky Mayday it was wonderful to see these two masterpieces facing each other and relating to their respective historical ages: The Renaissance with its high aspirations and the Victorian with its equally high ambitions.


To see both in one room was an absolute treat.

Going Home

So here we are back at Mauritius International airport to start our return flight to blighty after two weeks splendid vacation in the (first time for us) southern hemisphere. During this time we did the following.

Organized tours

1 Went on a tour of the south part of the island

2 Went on a catamaran cruise.

3 Turtle watching boat trip

Our own exploration

1 To Port Louis waterfront

2 To Port Louis town

3 To Poudre d’Or

4 To Pamplemousses

5 To Souillac.

6 To Choisy

7 To Triolet

We visited the following museums:

1 International Slavery museum

2 Aapanasi Ghat

3 Postal museum

4 Blue Penny museum

5 Photographic museum

6 Robert Edward Hart Museum

We ate at the following places

1 Casuarina

2 Choisy (Kingfisher)

3 Souillac (Bonne Bouffe)

4 Poudre d’Or

This is, of course, in addition to relaxing in the sea, sun and sand for which the island is famous.

What do we wish we had done but didn’t?

1 More star-gazing, considering that it was the first time we’d seen the night-sky of the southern hemisphere

2 A closer look at the former capital of the island Mahebourg.

3 More time for hiking up the weird volcanic mountains of the Moka range.

Ah well we can’t do everything on one short holiday. But will we come back? Returning to the airport we met a couple who’d already stayed here five times! Not really for us though. Life is too short to keep on returning to the same places. No ‘boarding house at Bognor’ mentality here.

And the future of the island? Considering its smallish size and beauty we happily noted that in most of the places we visited the dreaded tourist was hardly encountered. In almost all cases we were the only ‘westerners’ on the local buses and the lovely places we encountered seemed to belong to us alone.

Hyper-tourism is becoming an increasing threat in many parts of the world and authorities there are attempting to combat it. Venice, for example, is now charging admission to tourists. The city of Vivaldi and Palladio is ever being reduced to a Disneyland theme park, it seems.

Will Mauritius become such a theme park? A friend tells me that her husband was brought up at Cure-pipe on the island where his father, after service in the King’s Rifles in Africa found employment managing a sugar plantation. She referred to the very bad roads on which carts trundled with their loads and the calm and clarity of the lagoon waters surrounding the beaches protected by coral reefs.

Today the island is traversed by six-lane highways, and there’s a metro system from Port Louis to Cure-pipe. The waters look still clear but increasingly plastic is being identified in the fish which swim in them. Moreover, areas which once were clearly country are bring built on. At least two major shopping centres have sprung up and a ‘cyber-city’ is being developed. However, picturesque fishing villages such as the ones at Poudre d’Or and Souillac still survive and much of the plateau region is a well protected national park.

So who knows? One thing is certain: the multicultural milieu of Mauritius where Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Buddhists continue to respect each others’ beliefs serves as an excellent example of the tolerance and co-existence prevalent in Mauritius, increasingly rare in a world ever being divided by bloody factionalism and extremism.

Our last Mauritian sunset?