Potsdam is Berlin’s ‘Versailles’ where the kings of Prussia had their palaces and held their court. Among them Frederick II, known in history as “the Great”, was, like his contemporaries Maria Theresa of Austria and Catherine of Russia, a benevolent despot who saw to it that his subjects were not just to be repressed but to be given a measure of happiness in terms of health care, housing and basic education

Frederick’s own happiness was found in his pleasure palace of Sans Souci (‘without a care’) where he entertained his guests including the enlightened philosopher Voltaire and where he, taught by Quantz, played his flute compositions.

I returned to this delightful golden nest over twenty years later after visiting Potsdam’s old town. Devastated by the 1945 Battle of Berlin this beautiful place has been restored to something approaching its former grandeur. We visited the recently rebuilt Barberini Palast housing a stunning collection of impressionist paintings and a playful Kandinsky exhibition. Other highlights included the neo-classical St Nicholas church and the city government palace.

Unlike some other capital cities Germany believes that restoring at least the facades of war-devastated buildings is important (with modern interiors behind them). Perhaps the fact that the old communist DDR administration chose to demolish rather than rebuild icons of a by-gone aristocracy has something to do with it – witness the recent reconstruction of Berlin’s city palace which replaces the former DDR bland concoction.

There is plenty more to see at Potsdam and its surroundings – twenty palaces and lovely gardens for a start. Reason enough for a return visit in a balmier season!

Potsdam è la “Versailles” di Berlino, dove i re di Prussia avevano i loro palazzi e tenevano la loro corte. Tra loro Federico, noto nella storia come “il Grande”, era, come i suoi contemporanei Maria Teresa d’Austria e Caterina di Russia, un despota benevolo che si assicurava che i suoi sudditi non fossero solo repressi, ma anche che gli fosse data una certa felicità.

La felicità di Federico era nel suo palazzo del piacere di Sans souci, dove intratteneva i suoi ospiti, tra cui Voltaire, e dove, istruito da Quantz, suonava le sue composizioni per flauto.

Sono tornato in questo delizioso nido dorato più di vent’anni dopo aver visitato il centro storico di Potsdam. Devastata dalla battaglia di Berlino del 1945, questa splendida città è stata restaurata in qualcosa che si avvicina al suo antico splendore. Abbiamo visitato il Barberini Palast, recentemente ricostruito, che ospita una straordinaria collezione di dipinti impressionisti e una giocosa mostra di Kandinsky.

C’è molto altro da vedere a Potsdam e nei suoi dintorni: venti palazzi e incantevoli giardini per cominciare. Motivo più che sufficiente per tornarci in una stagione più mite!