Praying for Protection Against the Plague

This Sunday, 22 March, in the church of Saint Michael the Archangel at Castiglione di Garfagnana, Mass will be celebrated behind closed doors, without a congregation, according to the recent edicts of the Italian state, and broadcast on television. At the conclusion of the service there will be a plea for the intercession of the Madonna of the Rosary who in 1631 saved Castiglione from the plague. This occurrence is remembered annually at the so-called “Festa del Regalo” (Feast of the Gift) which takes place on the first Sunday of the year.

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Yesterday, on our visit to Kandy’s world heritage site of the Temple of Buddha’s Tooth we heard the chanting of monks praying for the deliverance of the nation of Sri Lanka from Covid-19 and broadcast loudly on speakers throughout the sacred enclosure.

In both cases I am aware of a similar return of prayers to a supernatural force for deliverance from the plague. At school we were taught that people no longer needed to pray to Gods to save themselves from the plague: the progress of medical science and the resources of modern hospitals obviated the need for such observances now considered quasi-superstitious. Even the catastrophic ‘Spanish flu’ pandemic of 1918-9, which killed an estimated 500 million (a third of the world population at that time), was considered unrepeatable. Yet since that time we have had further pandemics:HIV, H1N1 (2009 flu) and now the rapidly spreading coronavirus. The contageous horrors of the plague are, apparently, ever with us.

I recollect a visit to the church of Saint Mary the Virgin in Ashwell, Hertfordshire. The majestic west tower has poignant mediaeval graffiti carved on its walls by victims of the Black Death in the fourteenth century. One of them, in translation from the Latin, reads:
“1350. Miserable, wild, distracted. The dregs of the mob alone survive to witness.”

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I hate to think what lack of medical facilities existed at that time. However, today at our local hospital of Northwick Park, Harrow, (appearing as the introduction to the Fawlty Towers episode where Sybil Fawlty is admitted for ingrown toenail surgery) a critical incident was declared when it ran out of intensive care beds because of a surge in corona virus cases.

Near to our village of Longoio in Italy at the junction that leads to Vetteglia are the ruins of the church of San Rocco (Saint Roch).

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The saint was invoked against the plague and, judging by the number of churches dedicated to him, was particularly venerated. Born in a noble family the saint gave his wealth to the poor and became a mendicant pilgrim. During his travels the town of Acquapendente became badly affected by the Black Death; Saint Roch stopped there and healed its victims by making the sign of the cross over them. He cured the sick from several other plague-ridden towns without catching the disease himself. However, when the saint reached Piacenza in northern Italy he fell a victim and a fetid ulcer developed in his leg. So rank was its smell that people kept well away from him. Luckily a dog befriended Roch and brought him some food on a daily basis and even licked his ulcer clean. Hence St. Roch has also become the patron saint of dogs.

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I am not sure whether, as a practising agnostic, I would go as far as praying to San Rocco in the present somewhat distressing situation. However, everything is possible and I am quite sure that religious fervour is increasing in the wake of a disturbingly uncertain phenomenon. One thing is sure: like the aftermaths of the Black Death and Spanish Flu our lives will never be quite the same again and we may truly revalue the simple things in life like hugging a loved one or friend, having a cappuccino in a bar, shopping in a supermarket or taking a turn without any reason, apart from the sheer pleasure of it, in the country amid wondrous nature which is now awakening with the song of Spring at its solstice.

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A Heavenly Temple

Isn’t it the cases that some of the world’s most beautiful buildings are circular in shape? In Italy the Pantheon and Bramante’s tempietto come to mind. Perhaps even Bagni di Lucca’s Demidoff temple may be included in this list. Going both through time and place Stonehenge and the Sanchi Stupa are other supreme circle-based buildings. In February this year we were at Auroville’s Matrimandir which is a modern interpretation of the round shrine, this time encircling a golden sphere.

China’s greatest example of a round edifice is Beijing’s Temple of Heaven which we included in our visit to that city last month.
Dating from the fifteenth century the temple, which is Taoist and dedicated to harvest ceremonies, was built by emperor Zhu Di who was also responsible for the forbidden city. Through the centuries the temple has been restored and even partially rebuilt as these models show.

 

However, the temple’s essential structure remains the same.

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The Temple of Heaven actually consists of three buildings. The famous circular one is the hall of prayer for good harvests. Rising from a square base representing the earth the three-gabled round pagoda represents the heavens.

 

There is also a single-gabled building known as the imperial vault of heaven and a mound altar which was used for the actual sacrifices.

 

Apart from the symbolism of circle and square the sacred number nine recurs in various architectural features of the altars. Furthermore, the hall of prayer has four inner pillars representing the four seasons and twelve outer pillars for the Chinese months and hours.

The temple complex stands in an attractive area of parkland which is very popular with Beijing’s inhabitants who take their children or meet up to play board games.

 

It really is a most beautiful structure, perhaps the most beautiful I saw in my visit to China.

(Of course, round buildings are not only confined to those serving a religious function. Just think of igloos, Mongolian gers, railway roundhouses enclosing turntables and pavilion tents. I, for one, would be very happy to live in an energy-efficient, easy-to-clean circular house!)

Ghostly Encounters

Our cruise up the Yangtze included some optional excursions, not all of which we took.

However, shortly before reaching journey’s end at Chongqing we alighted from our vessel to visit the ghost city of Fengdu, a collection of hillside temples dedicated to the grisly subject of death.

Actually there are two ghosts cities, for the old town of Fengdu has been swallowed by the waters of the Yangtze and people now live in the new settlement which what it lacks in the character of the old town it makes up in modern and more hygienic facilities.

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The passage through death to the underworld is a particularly complex one in China. The dead have to pass various tests and justify their life’s deeds (especially the bad ones) before a panel of often terrifying-looking gods. If they fail the tests the unfortunate souls are subject to years of torture which are too horrifying to describe here (although there are some very realistic statues on the site).

This is a graphic description of the Taoist-Buddhist idea that what goes around comes all the way back – otherwise expressed as being one’s own worst enemy.

We entered the ghost city via the gate to Youdu which leads to the capital of death called Diyu.

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It’s very similar to hell in the west and the tortures inflicted are not that dissimilar from those described in Dante’s inferno: people are sawn in half, crushed under heavy weights, driven mad by huge flies, disembowelled etc.

Fortunately for us we managed the three main tests so were not torn to shreds by some maniacal demons.

The first of these tests involved us crossing the bridge of helplessness. The demons standing at the far end of the bridge, after a little hesitation, allowed us through. We were safe for the moment.

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The second test involved facing Yama the King of Hell for judgement. Despite his gruesome expression Yama didn’t say anything to us so we passed this test as well. That was a relief!

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The third test was to stand on a very slippery stone to the count of three without falling off. We managed this one as well so I presume for the foreseeable future we won’t have too much bother from Yama and his crew.

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Actually the court of Hell seemed to us a very attractive place with some beautiful panoramas. I didn’t feel many of the Chinese people took it that seriously and, instead, there was a subdued holiday atmosphere.

The beautiful pagoda placed near Yama is the place where the souls of the dead can take a last look at the world of the living. This made me feel that the worst punishment the Death King can inflict is separation of those on the journey to the nether world from family and friends. And unfortunately this punishment works the other way too…

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I was also particularly taken by this statue:

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It represents the wreath-eating ghost who was a girl who stole wreaths from the statue of the Buddha. As a punishment she could only feed on wreaths and not food offerings after her death.

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We headed down towards the river and our ship having defeated Death for the time being.

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