Praying for Protection Against the Plague

This Sunday, 22 March, in the church of Saint Michael the Archangel at Castiglione di Garfagnana, Mass will be celebrated behind closed doors, without a congregation, according to the recent edicts of the Italian state, and broadcast on television. At the conclusion of the service there will be a plea for the intercession of the Madonna of the Rosary who in 1631 saved Castiglione from the plague. This occurrence is remembered annually at the so-called “Festa del Regalo” (Feast of the Gift) which takes place on the first Sunday of the year.

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Yesterday, on our visit to Kandy’s world heritage site of the Temple of Buddha’s Tooth we heard the chanting of monks praying for the deliverance of the nation of Sri Lanka from Covid-19 and broadcast loudly on speakers throughout the sacred enclosure.

In both cases I am aware of a similar return of prayers to a supernatural force for deliverance from the plague. At school we were taught that people no longer needed to pray to Gods to save themselves from the plague: the progress of medical science and the resources of modern hospitals obviated the need for such observances now considered quasi-superstitious. Even the catastrophic ‘Spanish flu’ pandemic of 1918-9, which killed an estimated 500 million (a third of the world population at that time), was considered unrepeatable. Yet since that time we have had further pandemics:HIV, H1N1 (2009 flu) and now the rapidly spreading coronavirus. The contageous horrors of the plague are, apparently, ever with us.

I recollect a visit to the church of Saint Mary the Virgin in Ashwell, Hertfordshire. The majestic west tower has poignant mediaeval graffiti carved on its walls by victims of the Black Death in the fourteenth century. One of them, in translation from the Latin, reads:
“1350. Miserable, wild, distracted. The dregs of the mob alone survive to witness.”

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I hate to think what lack of medical facilities existed at that time. However, today at our local hospital of Northwick Park, Harrow, (appearing as the introduction to the Fawlty Towers episode where Sybil Fawlty is admitted for ingrown toenail surgery) a critical incident was declared when it ran out of intensive care beds because of a surge in corona virus cases.

Near to our village of Longoio in Italy at the junction that leads to Vetteglia are the ruins of the church of San Rocco (Saint Roch).

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The saint was invoked against the plague and, judging by the number of churches dedicated to him, was particularly venerated. Born in a noble family the saint gave his wealth to the poor and became a mendicant pilgrim. During his travels the town of Acquapendente became badly affected by the Black Death; Saint Roch stopped there and healed its victims by making the sign of the cross over them. He cured the sick from several other plague-ridden towns without catching the disease himself. However, when the saint reached Piacenza in northern Italy he fell a victim and a fetid ulcer developed in his leg. So rank was its smell that people kept well away from him. Luckily a dog befriended Roch and brought him some food on a daily basis and even licked his ulcer clean. Hence St. Roch has also become the patron saint of dogs.

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I am not sure whether, as a practising agnostic, I would go as far as praying to San Rocco in the present somewhat distressing situation. However, everything is possible and I am quite sure that religious fervour is increasing in the wake of a disturbingly uncertain phenomenon. One thing is sure: like the aftermaths of the Black Death and Spanish Flu our lives will never be quite the same again and we may truly revalue the simple things in life like hugging a loved one or friend, having a cappuccino in a bar, shopping in a supermarket or taking a turn without any reason, apart from the sheer pleasure of it, in the country amid wondrous nature which is now awakening with the song of Spring at its solstice.

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The Wonders of Polonnaruwa

The history of Sri Lanka is complex but can be simplified into an often violent dialectic between the Buddhist Sinhalese majority of the island’s centre and south and the Hindu Tamil minority of its northern and eastern areas. Added to these two major ethnic groups were the western traders: first Portuguese, then Dutch and lastly the British. Each one of these people have left their distinctive mark in the culture and architecture of the country.

My previous post describes the ancient city of Anuradhapura. We subsequently visited a further ancient city and world heritage site: Polonnaruwa. This city was founded by the South Indian Chola dynasty after their successful invasion of Anuradhapura in the tenth century.

Two things struck me as odd about these cities when compared with those in the western world. First was the utter obliteration of a conquered city and the construction of a new centre in a new site. This was rather different from what usually happened in Europe. For example, Lucca was conquered by the French under Napoleon; he did not destroy it but merely added to its beauty. In the East the total elimination of a city was commonplace in an attempt to deny that previous powers had ever been in existence. This trend has continued in modified form to this day: for example the former capital cities of Pakistan and Myanmar have both been replaced by new centres. The British, too, followed this trend when they founded a new capital of India at Delhi.

Second was the astonishing syncretism between Buddhist and Hindu religion. Statues of Buddha and Vishnu, for example, are to be found in the same temple. In India hinduism won hands down and Buddha was relegated as an avatar of Vishnu while in Sri Lanka the Theravada school of Buddhism continues to flourish.

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The ruins of Polonnaruwa are very well presented and very extensive. We only managed to visit a part of the area they occupied but were impressed by the ruins of palaces, stupas, baths and shrines we saw. The city was clearly a flourishing place with particularly advanced irrigation systems which included the man-made Parakrama lake.

We first visited the informative museum and realised that we’d seen similar examples of the bronze statues during our visit to Chennai’s Government museum three years ago and described in my post at

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Of the ruins five were particularly impressive.

First was the temple where Buddha’s tooth, perhaps Buddhism’s most sacred relic, was originally kept.

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Second was the burnt out shell of the King’s palace with massive walls.

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Third was a giant temple with a Buddha statue approaching the scale of the sadly destroyed Bamiyan ones.

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Fourth was a shrine with an almost gothic arch form.

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Fifth was the elegant King’s bath:

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Sixth was a majestic trio of gigantic statues including one of the dying Buddha.

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Polonnaruwa eventually suffered the fate of other ancient cities in Sri Lanka: the Aryacakravarti dynasty abandoned it in the thirteenth century and built yet another centre at Dambadeniya.

Before the evocative ruins of this once prosperous city I could not help picturing an apocalyptic vision of a world currently threatened by an unseen enemy from which there appears to be no respite.

Where Buddhism Began in Sri Lanka

We spent our third night in Sri Lanka in what appeared at first sight to be an ancient temple but turned out instead to be a hotel, the inappropriately named Palm Garden Village. Entering the reception hall was awesome but we were soon wafted away to a colonial-style cottage with equally veteran looking furniture.

The following morning I took a look at the place and found a delightful lake at the end of beautifully landscaped grounds.

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There was also, somewhat incongruously, this chapel frescoed with Giottesque copies.

The hotel complex, clearly unfinished, was started in the 1990’s and still needs some investment. I felt it was almost like an oriental equivalent of that disappeared folly, Fonthill Abbey. It was certainly one of the more unusual hostelries I’ve stayed in.

The following morning was dedicated to climbing up another sacred mountain, this time that of Mihintale, the site of a meeting between the monk Mahinda, son of King Ashoka, and King Devanampiyatissa; a meeting marking the beginning of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.

I found this area exceptionally evocative. Large rocks were scattered around the luxuriant forest and caves marked the location of hermit monks. There was an atmosphere of peace and quiet: the place diffused a mystical religious feel.

At the base of steps leading to the crowning stupa were the remains of an ancient hospital and a monastery with rules for the novices still inscribed on stones on each side of the entrance.

 

We then started on our climb of 1840 steps to the stupa.

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From its platform magnificent views extended down to Anuradhapuram and its stupa which we had visited the previous day.

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What glories and what mysteries are unwrapped in Sri Lanka’s history so unknown to the majority of westerner!

DSCN0416~2But now we headed towards the sea, passing smatterings of the island’s wildlife the way and

further Buddhist statues.

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Stupefying Stupas

Sri Lanka has a number of ancient cities which were once major cultural, religious and commercial centres. We visited one of these, Anuradhapura, two days ago. One of the country’s eight world heritage site it was formerly the centre of Theravada Buddhism and continues to remain an important Buddhist pilgrimage centre.

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There are eight principal religious places which are visited by pilgrims here. Of these we managed to see the following:
Jaya Sri Maha Bodi. This is a sacred bodhi tree grown from a branch of the original at Sarnath in India which I visited several years ago and under which the Buddha obtained enlightenment. Planted in 288 BC, it is the oldest tree with a known planting date and is a most holy relic. The tree is now kept up by guilded supports.

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Ruwanweli Maha Seya. This is a stupa of hemispheric shape containing relics of the Buddha. It’s really large with a height of 338 feet and a circumference of 951 feet.

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I particularly liked the rows of elephants gracing the sides.

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While we were there workmen were busy whitewashing the stupa and climbing up a tall, steep ladder without any safety harness!

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A Puja procession also took place during our visit.

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Lovamahapaya. Otherwise known as the brazen palace only the supporting pillars remain of this building which dates back to 1500 BC.

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Sandra pointed that the array of pillars reminded her of this sculpture at Italy’s Villa Celle, Magdalena’s Abakanowicz’s ā€˜Katarsis’ (1985):

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Abhayagiri Dagaba. This is another huge stupa built of red bricks and dating back to the second century BC.

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Like the Angkor Wat, which we visited in 2015, it would need a good month to fully explore Anuradhapura but at least we got there and visited its main features which fully demonstrate the incredible energy encapsulated in a belief which is more a philosophy than a religion.

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Escape to Sri Lanka

Colombo, the largest city and commercial hub of Sri Lanka is mainly used by visitors as an entry point to this beautiful island which we are lucky to visit in these difficult times for the world and, particularly, for Italy.

We spent two nights at the Ramada hotel whose best feature is its location in the centre of the vibrant city. Close by us the spacious Galle Face Green was laid out in 1859 by the British who had made Ceylon part of their empire in 1815 (they kept it until 1948). It is like a gigantic sand pit with a promenade along the sea front and, once used as a racecourse, is now a popular urban park with vendors selling cooked crabs, prawns and kites. On the little pier we were hailed by an interviewer from Shaa FM, the locally based international online radio station, who asked us (Sandra, mainly) about the current coronavirus epidemic sweeping Europe, especially Italy, and now spreading ever further into the world’s four corners.

 

Although without major heritage sites Colombo has the most eclectic architectural mix. Lovers of colonial buildings will have a field day here from the Gaffoor gem market edifice to the red and white Jami Ul-Alfar mosque built in Indo-Saracenic style in 1908.

 

After many years of neglect these relics from a time when Sri Lanka was under foreign domination are being restored and refurbished as hotels or shopping malls. They make a welcome change from the increasing number of high rises which now dominate the Colombo skyline.

Of the many temples in a majority Buddhist country we managed a visit to Asokaramaya with its beautiful murals and stunning statuary dating back to the 1870’s and founded by Elliyas Kalutara, a wealthy merchant, in memory of the monk Aluthgana Sangharatne.

 

We also visited the former Victoria Park, now renamed Viharamahadevi after an equally powerful Sinhalese queen. The British queen’s statue, now side-lined in the back of the park, has been replaced by one of Buddha.

 

There are some very interesting contemporary buildings too in Colombo including the Nelum Pomona theatre, Sri Lanka’s main performing arts venue, built in the form of a lotus leaf in 2011 and the similarly lotus inspired tower only opened last year.
There are many other sites of interest in Colombo and lovers of architecture, especially Victorian, will find much to interest them.

However, Sri Lanka is famous for a lot more than imperial architecture and after a full day in Sri Lanka’s commercial and administrative centre, with a population of over ten million, it was time for us to move on.

London’s Mysterious Mithraic Temple

Today we have a guest blogger, Alexandra Cipriani Pettitt, who is well-known and highly regarded as a Trip Advisor reviewer. So far Alexandra has written sixty seven T. A. reviews which have earned her the awards of ā€œAttraction Expert Level 14ā€ and almost 7,000 points!

All Alexandra’s reviews are of particular interest, especially for visitors to London, and she writes with style and knowledge. This is her latest review on a particularly unusual London attraction which she visited in 2018.

Alexandra has given us plenty more information about Mithraism of which I was unaware when I wrote on the London Mithraic temple in my post addressed to an Italian audience at https://longoio3.com/2017/12/23/il-dio-mitra-a-londra/

PS You may also know Alexandra as my wife!

Mithraic Mysteries was a religion on the god Mithras.

A rival of early Christianity Mithraism was subsequently suppressed and often Mithraic Temples are found below church crypts such as Santa Prisca Rome.

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It was mainly an orally transmitted cult although there are some written references to the practices in early literature. Worshippers of Mithras were mainly military, minor merchants, customs officials and bureaucratic officials; thus it was mainly aĀ  male cult but some women, it seems, were involved with Mithraic groups.

One can admire a most endearing copy of the sculptural head of Mithras wearing a Phrygian hat.

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Mithras was born from a rock as a bas relief testifies from the Baths of Diocletian. So Mithras slaughters a sacred white bull and then shares a banquet with the god Sol (the sun). This, again, can be seen in cult icons which were portable and double sided reliefs with, on one side, the depiction of the Tauroctony (slaughter of the bull) and, on the reverse side, the banquet scene of Mithras and Sol feasting on the bull.

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The Mithraic Festival was held on 26th June the then Summer Solstice which coincided with the feasts of Roman clubs or collegia. Indeed, this cult held initiation ceremonies consisting of seven grades which were connected to the Planets and at each grade the initiates were placed under the protection of different planetary gods and called Syndexioi “those united by the handshake”. They prayed three times daily to the sun and Sunday was sacred.

As you enter the now ground floor you view a wall of Roman debris or artefacts found in the archaeological dig some everyday items of Londinium explanations are given throughout on an interactive mobile device as well as by guides.

You then go to a mezzanine level to discover Mithras and the Mithraic cult.

Finally you descend into the lower level of the site, seven metres below the modern pavement level.

At this point of the visit you can actually experience a revocation of the reconstructed Temple of Mithras a kind of son and lumiĆØre. As the lights dim special effects recreate the Roman Temple of Mithras – a most convincing experience. We might even have expected to see Ulpius Silvanus, the original founder, appear amongst the seven columns.

These Temples were, indeed, built underground. They were windowless and very distinctive and known as Mithraea or Mithraeum. Rome was the cult centre and the Mithraea were found in Roman Africa Roman Britain as well as Roman Syria.

The visit also includes the Bloomberg SPACE gallery as you enter. At present there is an extraordinary tromp d’oeil wallpaper exhibition inspired by Wren-aissance visions of London:

The whole Mithraean experience is situated in the European headquarters of Bloomberg close to Cannon Street Station.

Date of experience:Ā October 2018

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186338-d13139701-r644429627-London_Mithraeum-London_England.html#

Baba Cesare : ą„ नमः शिवाय: Brahma Murari Surarchita Lingam

Jai Baba Cesareji Jai.

Puja in onore di Shivaji ogni mattina alle otto e poi anche alle dieci all’ashram di Guzzano.

Puja in devotion to Shivaji every morning at 8 am and also at 10 am at the ashram in Guzzano.

हर ą¤øą„ą¤¬ą¤¹ 8 ą¤¬ą¤œą„‡ ą¤¶ą¤æą¤µą¤¾ą¤œą„€ ą¤•ą„€ ą¤­ą¤•ą„ą¤¤ą¤æ ą¤®ą„‡ą¤‚ ą¤Ŗą„‚ą¤œą¤¾ और ą¤—ą„ą¤œą¤¼ą¤¾ą¤Øą„‹ ą¤®ą„‡ą¤‚ ą¤†ą¤¶ą„ą¤°ą¤Ø ą¤®ą„‡ą¤‚ ą¤øą„ą¤¬ą¤¹ 10 ą¤¬ą¤œą„‡ ą¤Ŗą„‚ą¤œą¤¾

 

 

Detachment

Remaining conscious of yourself as a spiritual being whilst playing your part in the material world is true detachment.

Brahma Muraari Surarchita Lingam
Nirmala Bhaashita Sobhitha Lingam
Janmaja Dhukha Vinaasahana Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Devamuni Pravaraarchita Lingam
Kaama Dahana Karunaakara Lingam
Ravana Darpa Vinaasahana Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Sarva Sugandha Sulepitha Lingam
Buddhi Vivaardhana Kaarana Lingam
Siddha Suraasura Vandhitha Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Kanaka Mahaamani Bhooshitha Lingam
Phanipathi Veshthitha Sobitha Lingam
Daksha Suyajna Vinaashana Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Kumkuma Chandhana Lehpitha Lingam
Pankaja Haara Susobhitha Lingam
Sanchitha Paapa Vinaashana Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Deva Ganaarchita Sevitha Lingam
Bhavair Bhakthi Bhirevacha Lingam
Dinakara Koti Prabhaakara Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Ahshta Dalopari Veshthitha Lingam
Sarva Samudbhava Kaarana Lingam
Ahshta Daridra Vinaashana Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Suraguru Suravara Poojitha Lingam
Suravana Pushpa Sadarchitha Lingam
Paraath Param Paramatmaka Lingam
Tatpranamaami Sadaashiva Lingam

Lingashtaka Midam Punyam
Yah Pathet Sivasannidhau
Sivaloka Mahaapnoti
Sivehna Saha Modatheh

***

(English translation)

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is worshipped by Brahma, Vishnu and other Gods,
Which is pure and resplendent,
And which destroys sorrows arising out of birth and death.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is worshipped by great sages and devas,
The destroyer of Kama, Linga, the compassionate,
And which destroyed the pride of Ravana.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is well annointed with all fragrances,
Which leads to growth of wisdom,
And which is worshipped by sages, devas and asuras.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is ornamented by gold and jewels,
Which is radiant and who has the king of serpents, coiled around him,
And which destroyed the Yagna of Daksha.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is smeared with sandal paste and saffron,
Which is decorated with garland of lotus flowers,
And which can destroy accumulated sins.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is is worshipped by gods and other beings,
Which is the doorway for devotion and good thought,
And whose splendor is like millions of Suns.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is enveloped with eight-fold petals,
Which is the cause of all creation,
And which destroys eight types of poverty.

I bow before that Sada Shiva Lingam,
Which is worshipped by the gurus of gods,
Which is worshipped by the best of gods,
Which is always worshipped by the flowers,
From the garden of Gods,
Which is the eternal abode,
And which is the ultimate truth.

Any one who chants the holy octet of the Lingam,
In the holy presence of Lord Shiva,
Would in the end reach the world of Shiva,
And keep him company.

A Heavenly Temple

Isn’t it the cases that some of the world’s most beautiful buildings are circular in shape? In Italy the Pantheon and Bramante’s tempietto come to mind. Perhaps even Bagni di Lucca’s Demidoff temple may be included in this list. Going both through time and place Stonehenge and the Sanchi Stupa are other supreme circle-based buildings. In February this year we were at Auroville’s Matrimandir which is a modern interpretation of the round shrine, this time encircling a golden sphere.

China’s greatest example of a round edifice is Beijing’s Temple of Heaven which we included in our visit to that city last month.
Dating from the fifteenth century the temple, which is Taoist and dedicated to harvest ceremonies, was built by emperor Zhu Di who was also responsible for the forbidden city. Through the centuries the temple has been restored and even partially rebuilt as these models show.

 

However, the temple’sĀ essential structure remains the same.

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The Temple of Heaven actually consists of three buildings. The famous circular one is the hall of prayer for good harvests. Rising from a square base representing the earth the three-gabled round pagoda represents the heavens.

 

There is also a single-gabled building known as the imperial vault of heaven and a mound altar which was used for the actual sacrifices.

 

Apart from the symbolism of circle and square the sacred number nine recurs in various architectural features of the altars. Furthermore, the hall of prayer has four inner pillars representing the four seasons and twelve outer pillars for the Chinese months and hours.

The temple complex stands in an attractive area of parkland which is very popular with Beijing’s inhabitants who take their children or meet up to play board games.

 

It really is a most beautiful structure, perhaps the most beautiful I saw in my visit to China.

(Of course, round buildings are not only confined to those serving a religious function. Just think of igloos, Mongolian gers, railway roundhouses enclosing turntables and pavilion tents. I, for one, would be very happy to live in an energy-efficient, easy-to-clean circular house!)