Sevenoaks School Comes to Bagni di Lucca

Sevenoaks is a town which, while sitting firmly in London’s vast commuter belt, still conserves many charms. The greatest of these is Knole House and Deer Park filled with literally millions of trees. The mansion, which dates back to the 14th century, is a whole town in itself.

It was Queen Elizabeth I who gave Knole to the Sackville family whose descendants still live there, although the property and park are now owned by the National Trust. Knole house is famous for having 365 rooms, 52 staircases, 12 entrances and 7 courtyards. My parents informed me of this fact as a small child and so I learnt my calendar from this magnificent building.

A lovely family and friends’ day spent at Knole House and Park in the 1950’s) 

I wonder if you can make out a calendar from your house. (I think I managed 7 rooms!).

What’s also fascinating about Knole is that the great novelist, Virginia Woolf, wrote her enchanting ‘Orlando’ while staying there with her lover, Vita Sackville-West, also a novelist and someone who wrote commandingly about gardening. More recently Knole house was the setting for the Beatles’ videos accompanying Penny Lane and Strawberry fields forever. That was just fifty years ago (!).

 

 

(Dear or dear! What uninvited guests do we have coming to our picnic in Knole Park in 2006.)

If you ever find yourself in London you must make a day of visiting Knole. In so many respect it is probably the finest country house in England. It is certainly my favourite.

At this stage you’ll be wondering why I am writing about the beauties of Sevenoaks when I’m in the Lucchesia, Italy . That’s because this 6th of July at 9.30 pm in Bagni di Lucca’s Teatro Accademico there will be a choral concert given by pupils of Sevenoaks School under the directorship of Christopher Dyer. The school has a great musical tradition daring back to its founding in 1483. It’s even mentioned in one of Shakespeare’s plays (Henry VI Pt 2).

In Bagni di Lucca’s Proloco site the concert is titled “The Sennocke consort” – musica corale dal ‘500 al ‘900. Ore 21.30 c/o presso il Teatro Accademico a Bagni di Lucca”.   That’s not a printing error. It’s because former pupils are called “Old Sennockians”.

A great evening is in store for you if you are around Bagni di Lucca on the 6th of July. Do be there!

 

 

 

 

 

Puccini and Shelley Again

Puccini and Shelley, in my mind, are the two visitors to Bagni di Lucca who have the highest significance. Shelley, the great English lyric poet, and Giacomo Puccini another great writer of ‘lirica’ which, in Italian, means opera, both loved this area for its peace and relative summer coolness. Of course, they never met – almost forty years separates the death of Shelley from Puccini’s birth. However, in several ways they are closely related, not only in terms of their immense creativity, but also through connections with other people.

For example, Respighi (who wrote one of his operas on a libretto Puccini had rejected) set three of Shelley’s poems, in translations. Do look at my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/05/04/sunset-with-shelley-and-respighi/ to find out what these poems are.

When we come to original English settings then we are truly spoilt for choice. For example, that beautiful poem:

Music, when soft voices die,
Vibrates in the memory;
Odours, when sweet violets sicken,
Live within the sense they quicken.

Rose leaves, when the rose is dead,
Are heap’d for the belovèd’s bed;
And so thy thoughts, when thou art gone,
Love itself shall slumber on.

counts at least thirty settings ranging from Charles Hubert Parry’s in 1897 (coincidentally Parry was baptised in the same church whose graveyard contains the remains of the Shelley family including the poet’s heart, St Peter’s in Bournemouth), Frank Bridge’s (Britten’s teacher) in 1904  to Roger Quilter’s in 1925 to Philip Legge’s in 2010.

Just ‘YouTube’ Music, when soft voices die and you’ll be amazed at how many settings of this lovely Shelley poem there are. I’d be interested to know whether you have a favourite among them.

My current favourite is this one from Patrick Jonathan, a British composer born in 1959 but currently based in Kuala Lumpur. The video accompanying the music is rather interesting as it includes Viareggio’s Shelley festival poster and the Pietà-like statue of the poet mourned by his Mary in Christchurch priory.

Peter Warlock, Philip Heseltine’s pen name, set Shelley’s poem twice. He had his most creative periods when in Llandyssil, a village we know well as it’s on the road between Welshpool and Newtown, and in Eynsford, another village we are acquainted with as it’s an attractive watering hole just outside south east London in the Darenth valley. (I remember I loved riding my Transalp across the ford there and getting completely splashed).

(Philip Heseltine AKA Peter Warlock)

It’s not often realised that the late lamented art critic Brian Sewell’s father was Peter Warlock himself. Regrettably, Brian never saw his dad as Peter died in a gas-filled kitchen of his house in Tite street Chelsea seven months before Brian was born. At the time Warlock was transcribing the music of Philip Cipriani Potter (whose godmother was the sister of the great eighteenth century artist and ancestor of my wife Alexandra Antonia Cipriani – see https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/06/my-wifes-illustrious-ancestor/ .)

Mentioning the great Sewell reminds me of a lively article he wrote on Puccini for Holland Park Opera.   http://www.operahollandpark.com/archive-1997-brian-sewell-puccini/.

(Brian Sewell)

And so we have gone full circle and returned to Lucca’s greatest maestro. Things connect don’t they in the end.

 

 

PS Don’t forget my talk on all this. It’s at Shelley House in Bagni di Lucca Villa on July 14th:

 

 

 

 

Big Issues for Bagni di Lucca’s New Administration

It’s a historical and demographic fact that human (and animal) populations are constantly on the move for four main reasons:

  1. The need to find food (for both humans and animals) or the need to find money to buy food (for humans). Examples of these are the great emigrations to the New World in the past two centuries from Europe.
  2. The escape from invading forces. Examples include current wars in many parts of the world today, particularly in Africa and the Middle East.
  3. The hope to better one’s life-style. Examples of these include people from England moving to live in Italy and, obversely, people from Italy fully able to use their qualifications and skills in better-paid jobs.
  4. Climate change causing, for example, inland seas to dry up and islands to be submerged.

The difference between these reasons today and in the past is the increase of the world population and the sheer scale of the movements. The world population in 1804 was one billion. The world population today is seven and a half billion with an almost exponential rise annually.

Unfortunately, all these reasons for moving today are being increasingly controlled by criminal organizations. Now the best ways of making money, apart from the usual ones of profitable financial transactions or finding a gold mine, are (in no particular order), arms sales, drug dealing and people trafficking.

All three methods kill in varying degrees. Arms murder instantly, drugs do so more gradually, people-trafficking drowns regularly. Last year, for example, five thousand people on the move were lost in the Mediterranean alone. It’s no wonder that Italian news refers to the ‘cimitero Del Mediterraneo’ – the Mediterranean graveyard –  in despite of travel agents who would rather have described the area as ‘Europe’s sunny holiday playground’ (which, undoubtedly it also can be.)

The sheer size of the movements across the Med to Italy is astounding. By the end of last month over sixty thousand ‘boat people’ had travelled to land in various Italian ports this year alone, usually with the help either of the Italian navy who, magnificently carries out its marine code of saving people overboard, or NGO’s, financed by non-government funds. That’s more people than live in Gravesend or Royal Tunbridge Wells for example!

Yesterday alone, there were five thousand emigrants (of those who survived) landing on Italian shores. Supposing that this figure lands daily, that would make a total of just fewer than two million people a year. There is only one Italian city with more than two million people and that is Rome with a population of just under three million. Milan doesn’t even reach a million and a half!

Pleas from the Italian President and Prime Minister to the rest of Europe yesterday stating that Italy has reached breaking point with regard to being able to receive, clothe, house, feed and medically care for this biblical proportion are now being heard with anxiety by more people regardless of whether they are labelled as do-gooders, or racists, or populists or communists or radicals or humanitarians or just plain ostriches.

The Italian government is attempting to bring some management to the situation through the following measures:

  1. Allowing only ships of the Italian navy to disembark migrants and refusing entry to N. G. O ships.
  2. Attempting to dissuade emigrants from coming to a country which has one of the highest unemployment rates in Europe, an unpromising annual economic growth rate and an infrastructure which has been greatly damaged by last year’s disastrous sequence of earthquakes which has left so many of its people still living in tents.
  3. Trying to find a solution, now that the Balkan corridor of migrant entry has all but closed and when other Mediterranean countries, like Malta, are refusing entry point-blank to those coming largely from chaotic Libya.

The migrants have spent a fortune to get unscrupulous people-traffickers to take them to Europe’s ‘promised’ lands and have done so at the highest risk to their own lives. They have left countries where they were born, where they speak the language, know the culture, have their friends and relatives and where, presumably they still have assets like land and houses.

In a far smaller, and hopefully less scrupulous manner, glossy ‘Under the Abruzzi sun’ books and enticing exhibitions like ‘La Dolce Vita’, plus the usual spate of TV programmes showing one how to pick and do up a palazzo in vine-drenched Chiantishire, have conned many brits into selling their house in, e.g. Droitwich, and move to such places as Bagni di Lucca. (Both are spa towns, incidentally).

Of course, one should never sell one’s property in the UK just for the privilege of moving to Italy. Houses there, despite the brexit fiasco, still remain an investment. In Italy they are often quickly turned into an albatross round one’s neck. Property doesn’t work that way here. If anything prices have fallen….

So far the Italian government has coped with the ‘accoglienza’, or reception, of the huddled masses from Africa, the Middle East and even Pakistan by farming them out through a quota system to the different comuni in Italy. Thus an Ibo or a Madinka could find themselves either in the rust-belt suburb of a north Italian city or in some remote Apennine village. Sometimes things work out well. The Sikh farmers of Emilia-Romagna have saved the dairy industry in those parts and there are many praiseworthy stories of migrants redeeming dying parts of the Italian countrywide.

However, in Bagni di Lucca things haven’t always turned out that well and the recent pages of Facebook dealing with this part of the world are worrying rather than alarmist, concerned rather than racist, realistic rather than idealistic, about the extra number of migrants Bagni di Lucca is having to accommodate under the quota system.  Already around forty African men are to be accommodated in the ex-holiday home of Pio X just by the spa.

The population of Bagni di Lucca’s ‘extracomunitari’ (i. e. those coming from outside the EU has doubled since I came here in 2005 to become over a tenth of the population of 6,500. Presumably, if brexit takes place the British will be classed too as ‘extra-comunitari’, substantially increase these figures and be classed, together with Malians, Moroccans, Nigerians and Mauritanians, as ‘extra-comunitari.’

The general opinion, which is diffuse throughout the local population regardless of their political affiliation, religious creed or social standing, is that having an increasing number of mostly single men, largely from Africa, without jobs or wives or family, placed within a comune which thrives principally on its tourist industry may have a deleterious effect.  Furthermore, such men will by nature become restless when idle and could well enter into criminal activities (especially drug supplying) and prove a threat (as has already happened in many other parts of Italy) to weaker and more vulnerable members of society.  Already symptoms of this are happening. More and more people are worried about leaving their cars in Bagni di Lucca’s station parking because of thefts and vandalism from ‘marocchini’. Many women are now scared of taking an evening walk through the lovely woods surrounding Bagni, and children, who formerly used to play unsupervised, are now increasingly being nannied.

The situation in a different modality has befallen many English seaside resorts. When taking one’s summer holidays in Spain became all the rage places like Margate, Bognor and Brightlingsea became overflow containers for homeless and destitute benefit-living people from London, simply because these towns had so many cheap and empty properties available. Only in recent years has Margate managed, through very industrious marketing, to regain its former Victorian popularity. But it took a long time to get back to the attractive resort it used to be.

I would not like to see Bagni di Lucca descend into another ‘container’ town, especially when it is trying to rebuild its faded tourist industry. I fully understand the concern and worries of many of those contributors who comment in our local facebook pages. Simply put, Italy can’t take it anymore and the rest of Europe has to pull itself together to come to a positive solution about ‘il problema degli immigrati’.

My own personal solution would be to help migrants at their country of birth by providing safe areas and cracking down heavily on those who, not only exploit people through arms and drugs, but fabricate illusions that Europe is a land of milk and honey whose populace will always greet them with open arms. It’s now become quite unsustainable for Italy and its population, however generous and hospitable they are, to carry on the same way.

Good luck to our new mayor. He will certainly have his work cut out for him with these seemingly impenetrable issues surrounding him ….