Bridging the Generation Gap

This picture taken the other night in our home in Longoio shows our oldest cat, Corniglia, age fifteen, nestling in with our newest cat, Archie, age one. 

(I just love the way their tails are touching each other.) Both are wild, rescue cats. For most of her life Corniglia, who was born in a wood pile, refused to allow herself to be touched. Age and the benefits of our free board and lodging have changed all that for her and she has become very friendly. Archie joined our household shortly before last Christmas to help fill the gap left by our (and Corniglia’s) much missed Napoleon. He has fitted well into our feline family and there are few scratches between him and the queens, which also include Carlotta and Cheeky. I do wish, however, that Archie would be less clumsy about knocking things over like our bedroom table lamps. He also needs to improve his jumping skills: the other morning Archie leaped off our bedroom cupboard and landed on sleeping Sandra’s face grazing her cheek. As for Corniglia, named after one of the Cinque Terre villages and the last survivor of the the original batch of five, she is still very active and good at landing correctly. She has, unfortunately, become very thin although we make every effort to feed her well and she still has a good appetite.

Anyway, we are so glad that two generations over seventy cat years apart are getting on well with each other and that Archie is showing love and respect towards Corniglia, the oldest member of our family.

A Public Hanging at Casabasciana

On July 18th this summer some villagers found him around 5.30 in the morning as they were walking to the car park to go to work. A man in his mid-fifties, from the United Kingdom, had hanged himself from a tree in the square of Casabasciana, the village in the mountains surrounding Bagni di Lucca.

It was a truly desperate action on which the carabinieri, alerted by the 118 emergency number after the first rescuers had arrived on the spot, are now trying to shed some light

For the casualty, who had moved to Casabasciana around twenty years ago, however, there was nothing more to be done: the rescue was completely useless. A terrible scene unfolded in front of those who had triggered the alarm call. Unfortunately, the desperate attempt to save his life was quite useless.

Who was this man? Evidently he had once led a happy life in his new home in the delightful village of Casabasciana. Then tragedy struck. His pregnant wife not only died in childbirth but the unborn daughter died as well with her. Friends rallied round to help the man in a heartrending situation. For a while he accepted their help but increasingly he became more and more reclusive until he refused to open his house to anyone from outside. At the same time he still accepted friendship from dogs and cats.

A second tragedy ensued from this. For when the authorities and volunteers entered the man’s house they found a scene of absolute horror and degradation. It wasn’t just the fleas that attacked them and many of the homes in Casabasciana. The situation of abolute squalor that emerged in a house in the town, which required a deep disinfestation by our refuse services BASE S.r.l, also involved some pet animals, which were found in poor condition and have since been looked after by the volunteers of the Arca della valle association.

“When our association was alerted to a situation of extreme difficulty” – explain the volunteers – “a terrible scenario appeared before our eyes. About twenty skinny, hairless cats full of fleas and utterly terrified were carried out by us from the house in question. Together with the cats on the street we also found billions of hungry fleas that attacked us as soon as we arrived”.

“The house” – the account continues –“was  full of carcasses of dead animals (at the moment the estimate is about twenty corpses including cats and dogs) and dirty beyond belief. It is now being subjected to serious disinfestation and cleaning while the cats wander terrified and hungry inside the village unable to be caught because  of their feral nature. Volunteers Monia, Patrizia, Vanessa and Fabrizia managed to catch eleven cats that will be subjected to all the necessary treatments and will be sterilized. The situation will continue to be monitored.”

For days now, the hygiene problem in this already difficult situation arising from the Covid-19 pandemic has continued to hit Casabasciana. Mayor Michelini visited the village to check up on the progress of the cleaning and sanitizing intervention. Accompanying him was also the environmental councillor to see how the flea infestation could be controlled.

“We are now at the end of the work to remove the accumulated waste” – said Mayor Michelini – “and on the first morning of Thursday BASE, our refuse collection company will provide for the complete disinfestation of the streets affected by the phenomenon. I hope that the long-standing hygiene problem will be definitively eliminated forever “.

“I want to thank” – continued the mayor – “all the inhabitants of Casabasciana and the visitors to the village for their patience and endurance shown in this hygiene emergency which, regrettably, also had such  a tragic end. I thank the BASE company that has handled the problem with commitment and professionalism bringing it to completion, and the municipal officers and the local police for the support and assistance they have given me “.

However, the Arca della Valle said that they were disappointed the mayor didn’t mention them.

The president of the Arca Della Valle Association, Francesco Purini, replied to the statements of Bagni di Lucca mayor Paolo Michelini, regarding the inspection of the municipality pending the health emergency in Casabasciana.

“After the timely intervention of our girls from Arca della Valle – he says -, we are saddened by the fact that the mayor Michelini has not in the least mentioned the work performed flawlessly by our volunteers, highlighting this intervention which we believe has arrived with some delay. As president I would like to thank the volunteers of the Ark of the Valley, in particular Monia, Vanessa, Patrizia and Fabrizia for the excellent work they have done in Casabasciana especially with the removal of over twenty dog and cat decomposing carcasses and the help given to malnourished cats that had been locked up in the abandoned house. The Arca della Valle volunteers has also been able to capture and sterilize some cats in very bad conditions.”

I have discussed this both tragic and horrific story with various people in the know. The most obvious question I asked was why this situation was not discovered earlier. Why did the man, who clearly had psychological problems, developed after the awful death of his wife and daughter, fail to receive any meaningful help?. The answer to this one is that at the start he did get assistance from friends, relative and social services but then gradually excluded them to the extent that he barred the door of his house against anyone who tried to gain admittance. In that case why was not a court order issued by the health authorities for his house to be searched?

If the scenes of decomposition and decay were so ghastly then there would have been evidence of this in the stench arising from the unfortunate man’s house. Surely there would have been complaints arising from neighbours?

And how did the man get his provisions? Surely he would have gone to the shop, (Casabasciana has its own local shop). Socially, people would have asked him questions out of curiosity. How were the cats fed, for example?

Mystery upon mystery accrues. One thing is certain, however. It doesn’t matter whether one lives in a tower block on a failing inner city housing estate or if one lives in a house in a tiny mountain village of less than two hundred inhabitants; it is still possible to be entirely neglected by people and die in abject conditions of dreadfulness. We hear stories of dead bodies found in council flats months after death. At least in this particular case the body was found a few hours later hanging from a tree in the village’s main square. There again one requires a certain amount of effort to hang oneself and there will be some inevitable noise and commotion during the night: getting the rope to sling correctly over a branch of the tree, confirming that the noose slips easily round the neck and is positioned to correctly break one’s back bone, ensuring that the death will not be protracted and agonised by cries of pain.

This whole episode has greatly shocked and saddened us and all those people who have been told about it. Why did it happen? Indifference? Unwillingness to interfere in other people’s business? Fear of reprisals or attacks?

I just don’t know. Can humans be that indifferent?

This is, however, the fourth time than the image of a hanged person has returned to haunt me.

The first is that of the preserved tree trunk in nearby Montefegatesi where a partisan was strung up by the Nazi authorities during World War 2.  Then there was the pizzeria owner by the Ponte delle Catene where we regularly ate. Another was that of Sergio Fini, one of my students and a friend. He was a poet and an artist who loved to draw trees and write poems about them. He hung himself on a beam in his house at Fornaci di Barga. And the fourth was this Englishman who had clearly come to Italy full of happiness and hope with his beloved in the wish to start a new life in this beautiful country but who so tragically and pointlessly finished up by stringing a noose round his neck and ending in utter squalor not only his life but the lives of those innocent animals who had trusted him.

The black dog is truly a fearsome beast to face as my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/10/28/the-black-dog/ has pointed out!

Benvenuti!

We are back in Longoio at last. We were meant to be here in March but something called covid19 came along and we had to miss the bus…or rather the plane. Finally, after various cancellations we managed to get O’Leary to transport us to Pisa. The journey, despite our fears, was quite safe with a whole seat row to ourselves.

Landing in Italy we were immediately set face-to-face, or rather mask-to-mask, with a clearer and more distinctive approach to the health crisis. So many more people, officials and public, were donning masks, hand sanitisers were placed everywhere and public information notices were prominently displayed. I, somehow, felt safer although I think anyone would feel the same after leaving the worst affected borough in London, Brent, with over two thousand deaths so far.

The Italian summer does help. The temperature difference from our place in the UK and our place in Italy approached 20 degrees! Mediterranean cafe society, with its open air arrangement of socially distanced tables and chairs, is a palliative too.

We took the train from Pisa di Bagni di Lucca where our Panda 4 x 4 was parked. Trusty as ever it started, after lying idle for over four months, at the first turn of the ignition. Of course, I had disconnected the battery before leaving Italy in February.

We found our house in very reasonable shape. No major storm had damaged the roof and no surrounding trees were down. Most of our geraniums were again flourishing although the lawn left something to be desired; rain had been lacking.

 

Most important of all we found our quintet of cats, Carlotta, Cheekie, Corneglia, Nerina and our latest arrival Archie in excellent form and still able to remember us! This happy fact was clearly due to the efforts of two friends, one from Guzzano and the other from Longoio, who visited, cuddled and, most importantly, fed our feline family.
It’s been hot, though not intolerably so, since our arrival three weeks ago.

 

However, there has recently been one day when the heavens wreaked their wrath upon over us with the strength of a breached sky-dam: a typical ‘bomba d’acqua’ or water bomb, as they are called here, worryingly reflecting the alterations in weather patterns today. This is what I said about it:

“As I write a terrible storm is pouring its vengeance upon the normally blue skies of an Italian summer. The wind is angry upon the hill our little village is poised. The rain is pelting down at a rattling machine gun rate. It turns in an instance into hail. Hail just when the season is heading towards its warmest holiday patch,’ferragosto August the fifteenth. The whole earth is rumbling continuously. It’s almost like an earthquake (we’ve had a few of those here too…).

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There’s no respite. The soil breaks asunder. The birds and cicadas are no longer heard in this pandemonium of the elements. Like searchlights in a concentration camp flashes of lightning follow the incessant noise reverberating round and round our usually peaceful and verdant valley. If any wonder at the violence of the storm sequence in Vivaldi’s Summer from his ‘Four Seasons’ then here is the proof. The heavens are terrifying. The wind is blowing the branches and transforming them into the hands of supplicating victims begging for mercy. When will it end? When will the catastrophic interlude end?

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When will we have our festive sunny season back? Why now! In an instant the irritated giants whose gnashing scared both the living and the dead have retreated. The clouds are parting to reveal a timid pallid blue and are shedding their menacing dark grey pallour. We can at last see and relive the harmony and the heat of this country’s summer without temerity, without dodging the lighting flashes, without hiding, like our cats, into the comforting folds of a bed. Yes this is Italy: a country that breeds extremes, that justifies them. For for every beam of golden light clearing its way through the azure skies there is the warning of the elements, For every invitation to love and caresses there is the terror of darkness, and violence breeds in the very heart in this land of fables and desires.”

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Cat-alogue

In my youth I was never a cat lover. Dogs yes but cats never. My father was of the same ilk: whenever he saw a feline straying into our garden he would furiously shoo it away.

However, after my marriage cats became more and more important in our lives and we never got a dog.

In the first year at our house in Longoio we discovered a litter of feral kittens huddled underneath a wood-pile. We became quite devoted to them and started feeding them: always a bad idea if you don’t want cats to start taking over your life.

The queen (mummy cat) had in fact produced a litter of five kittens and, harking back to our walk along the wonderful Cinque Terre footpath we decided to call each of them by the names of the five towns:

Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.

The queen did not last too long but the remaining five kittens accepted our residence for many years. One by one, however, they disappeared leaving behind only Cornelia. She was the most feral of the kittens and would never allow herself to be touched until one day, three years ago, when she suddenly changed her mind about humans.

Cornelia has since become a much friendlier cat.

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She loves to sleep on our bed and follow us round on our walks with our other, more recent, cats. They are:

Carlotta (2012),

Cheeky (2014),

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Nerina (2008)

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and, youngest and only tom, Archie (2019).

They are all rescue cats which we ‘saved’, apart from Nerina who just foisted herself on us.

(Many thanks to our neighbour for taking these photos).

Can you recognize Cornelia in the original photos taken fifteen years ago?

Here’s a useful cat calculator which converts the age of a cat into human years. This means that Cornelia is even older than we are!

Age of cat (years) Age in human years
1 15
2 24
3 28
4 32
5 36
6 40
7 44
8 48
9 52
10 56
11 60
12 64
13 68
14 72
15 76
16 80
17 84
18 88
19 92
20 96

I just hope we can return to our feline family as soon as possible. We miss them badly but know that they are in good hands thanks to our cat minders.

 

Delayed by Curfew

We didn’t make it to Colombo today. The curfew throughout the whole island of Sri Lanka was extended to Tuesday and we didn’t get permission from the Police authorities to leave the city.

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So we returned to our hotel to put up with another day in the hills surrounding Kandy.

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We weren’t even allowed to wander around the streets of this beautifully positioned town. However, I managed this photo of people queuing outside a chemist. Note the social distance they are keeping one from another and the fact that they are all wearing facemasks.

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Compare that photo with this one taken outside a Tescos in the UK.

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There can be no doubt now that the time for advice and personal decisions in the UK are over. There must be mandatory implementation of similar rules and regulations for controlling the virus imposed in other countries throughout the planet. This includes self-isolation and social distancing.

The odd thing is that mandatory social distancing should hurt the English less than many other nations, especially the Mediterranean ones where the covid-19 virus has hit hardest. For example, when two Neapolitans meet their social distance may be as close as a couple of inches and hugs and kisses abound. For northern nations, however, even a handshake may be difficult in meeting.

Social distancing has, of course, always been around when social relations are considered, especially in small communities. Just observe the extremes some Bagnioli (inhabitants of Bagni di Lucca) take to avoid each other, especially the brits. Cantankerous academics, failed novelists and white van drivers appear to be the worst offenders.
***
Our trip to Sri Lanka has been unfortunately curtailed with only half of our proposed itinerary accomplished. We clearly cannot be a possible burden on the Sri Lankan health service and we need to get back to the UK asap before all flights are cancelled. Never mind. We shall certainly plan a return journey to this pearl of the Indian ocean: there is so much more to see and enjoy here.

Among the highlights of any trip to Sri Lanka we missed out on was a visit to some of its national parks, for the island teems with wild life and has extensive tropical jungles. All we managed to see were some wild elephants, birds including peacocks and the sacred ibis, in addition to the monkeys, chipmunks and monitor lizards.

 

We missed out on leopards and the fishing cat in particular. Next time?

 

Casting my eyes back on my connections with a nation formerly called Ceylon I recollect a pupil at my old school of Dulwich College, Ratwatte, who we naturally called ‘Ratty’: a good cricketer without a doubt. At university my tutor for a year was the brilliant social anthropologist Stanley Tambiah,’Tambi’. He also wrote the definitive biography on Edmund Leach, another distinguished social anthropologist and provost of Kings. A carer for the last years of my mother-in-law, Ambiga, also hailed from this island.

Anyway, here we are waiting to return to another island which, so far, has shown less sense in a rapidly deteriorating situation than Sri Lanka.

 

Archie – our New Feline Arrival

It all started with a request I read, a couple of weeks back in Facebook, from a couple who had bought a farm near Montaltissimo, a village they described (and as many truly are) rather more peopled by cats than by humans. They already had two dogs and the cats didn’t really get on well with their canines. Could they find homes for them? Of the photographs shown of a kitten tom and a kitten queen (born end of June this year) I chose the tom. Our feline family had lacked a male since the death of Napoleon just before the Christmas of 2017.  Perhaps this tom might fit the bill?

I met with the couple, a little daughter and the kitten tom last Tuesday at Fornoli’s bar Serra. We transferred the tom from one cat basket to another on one of the bar’s tables much to the delight of some customers. However, the morning’s weather looked ominous. Another day of incessant rain? Oh no!

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Anyway, our new arrival (after a brief visit to our vet who has his practice close by, for a quick check-up) was securely strapped, in his basket, on the back of my scooter and we reached home without getting soaked.

Archie, as we have decided to call him (though maybe not what he calls himself – all cats have, as you know, their own secret names) quickly began to explore his new surroundings which, of course, includes the queenly trio Carlotta, Cheekie and Corneglia. Would he get on with them? Would they accept him?

Old (14) Corneglia took him into her care almost immediately.

She gave Archie a lesson on how to catch a (mechanical) mouse.

Archie was hypnotised by our fire’s flames (as cats inevitably are).

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Then there was that special feline treat of playing with the christmas tree (though happily without too much bauble boxing).

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And, last but not least, what Italian cat cannot resist dipping into a plate of spaghetti?

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I’m sure we’ll have years of fun and games with our new tom, Archie, all thanks to that FB insert.

 

Tree-Climbing with Cats

Our two cats, Carlotta and Cheekie, love to accompany us on our woodland walks. They truly enjoy exploring the wild scents, stalking each other and….climbing up trees.

It’s a well-known fact that cats are rather better at going up trees than coming down. Their retractable claws act like hooks in the ascent but the descents another matter. Our cats have realized that the best way to come down is often backwards.

Our meadow is stunningly full of flowers which include wild carnations and field orchids.

The long grasses are truly a pleasure-ground for our felines.

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It would be a real pity to have to cut these meadows, which in the UK would even receive protected status. I wonder when I’ll have the courage to use a strimmer on them?

 

Rat Scabies in Longoio

A sadly large number of cats in our Val di Lima are either strays or poorly looked after. When I first came here fifteen years ago I started taking these cats from Longoio to be neutered at the province’s animal health centre formerly at Ponte al’Ania. Despite the fact that cats are not very good at keeping appointments I managed to have a large part of Longoio strays neutered.

A neighbour brought a cat in a particularly poor condition to my attention. The cat looked very sad and looked very undernourished. Its coat was matted, one of its eyes was infected and its claws were in-growing.

We found the cat actually belonged to a lady who, regrettably, was in very poor health herself. Sadly she has since left the world.

Fortunately, the cat turned out to be very friendly and was easily caught. Carlotta even made friends with it:

My neighbour did wonders in returning the cat to a more presentable condition and also managed to trim her claws.

The cat even got the new name of ‘Rat Scabies’, not so much because of the condition in which it was first found but after the stage name of Christopher Millar,  drummer of the pioneering punk-gothic rock band ‘The Damned’.

‘The Damned’ started up in 1976 and still going strong, (though without Rat Scabies, who has now gone solo).

Here are some pictures of the Longoio version of Rat Scabies.

She is definitely a bit long in the tooth but I am sure her last years will be spent in purrfect comfort.

Incidentally, there is a special Italian word for someone who feeds stray cats. It’s ‘Gattaia’. Earlier this year I visited Rome where ‘Gattaie’ have got together to form an excellent cat refuge in Largo Argentina. My post on that is at:

Happy Cats in Rome

I do feel that people can often be divided into those who have an affinity with cats and those who don’t. It is the same with so many other animals. I had a friend who had a very close link with beetles. Regretfully I could not share his passion although, change a vowel, I still love to hear their songs… Continue reading

Happy Cats in Rome

Where would Rome be without its cats? Ancient fallen columns and pediments would not be the same without  the eternal city’s felines sunning themselves among the ruins of imperial temples and fora. Yet there was a move by the authorities not too long ago to cull moggies as it was thought that they lowered the tone of the city!

Fortunately, there are many more cat lovers than cat loathers and protests took place. Volunteers came forwards to help protect the eternal city’s felines, inoculate them against FIV, feed , clean, sterilize them to keep their numbers under control, re-house and find them suitable adoptions. (It’s even possible to distance-adopt a Roman cat!).

One of the most characteristic places to enjoy Roman cats is among the ancient ruins of Largo di Torre Argentina. This is an area in the heart of the city which was part of a major slum clearance project in the 1920’s. By chance,  (as usually happens in Rome if anyone starts digging – most famously tunnelling that new metro line…) ancient temples were uncovered belonging to pre-imperial Rome together with part of Pompey’s theatre which, you may remember, was where Julius Caesar was murdered by Brutus, Cassius and their conspirators.

Stray cats were glad to have found a new open space through the generosity of archaeologists and began convening there in such large numbers than in 1929 volunteers decided to set up a cat-shelter.

It’s been often touch and go for the shelter’s survival. Happily, when I visited it on my recent visit to Rome I found it to be a thriving and cheerful place.

I think I would like to be a Roman cat in my next incarnation! Imagine getting free board and lodging among the splendid classical ruins of perhaps the world’s most beautiful city and receiving all the love I needed from devoted volunteers and generous visitors, one of whom will always be remembered for she was none other than that greatest of Italian actors, Anna Magnani who always visited Largo Argentina to feed her beloved cats between film shots.

PS If you can’t be in Rome do at least visit the cat sanctuary web site at https://www.gattidiroma.net/web/en/  

Even if you are not a cat-lover the site has lots of invaluable historical and archaeological information.

 

 

Living One’s Christmas

One December day has followed another with ever more gloriously blue skies. However, we are now due for a change with night temperatures down to minus 4 and the real possibility of snow during the day.  So let’s stock up our larder with all the Christmas goodies that are coming our way including panforte, panettone, and loads of chocolate. Let us also remember to buy something more to donate to those in need (both of the two-legged and four-legged variety.)

Fornoli square  has the right idea:

 

And Tuodi has too.

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There will, no doubt, be other collection points:

Also at Tuodi (which is on the way from Fornoli to Fornaci di Barga) there are ecologically minded discounts on food which are near their sell-by date. It’s crazy to think that in many instances over half the food on sale in supermarkets eventually finds its way to land-fill sites!

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Don’t forget these two unmissable events.

The first is the traditional Bagni di Lucca Christmas Concert at the library (former Anglican Church) which is this 13th December. There are still a few places left (booking is essential) and there will be an entrance donation of euros five which will go to the restoration of the Bagni di Lucca protestant cemetery.

 

 

The second is yet another living crib. This time it’s at Ghivizzano. I can vouch for the excellence of this Christmas nativity!

 

 

Hope you’ve got your Christmas together. Ours is getting there thanks to Carlotta…