The Solemn ‘Festa Triennale’ of San Cassiano

Italy abounds in religious processions centred on a town’s patron saint or holy relic. San Cassiano’s Festa Triennale del SS Crocifisso (Feast of the Very Holy Crucifix) is celebrated in grand style every three years. It is a very moving festival of the religious and community spirit of the area, bringing together not only the inhabitants of the surrounding villages but also relatives who have emigrated to the Americas and northern Europe. For an anthropologist the Festa is a complete vindication of Durkheim’s concept of “collective effervescence” and the identification of God with Society.

The intermixing and fusion of the sacred and the secular can be felt throughout the three days of this wonderful occasion, both for San Cassiano and for the entire Valle di Lima.

I’ve witnessed the festa Triennale at least three times since I moved to this area in 2005. The climax of the ceremony is when the crucifix comes gently down a specially-built ramp from above the altar where it has been placed.

The descent from on high is, of course, meant to symbolise the incarnation of God in the figure of his Son Jesus Christ, who become a man.

It’s also ‘Ecce homo’, (here is the man) as Pontius Pilate, Roman governor of Judea says (in St John’ gospel) to the mass of people in front of him when he has had Jesus flagellated. Pontius thought this was good enough punishment but the high priest wanted more and Jesus was crucified.

After the recitation of the vespers there was the solemn procession beating the bounds of San Cassiano.

Two friends were responsible for decorating the lovely arch at the start of the village.

In the evening there was an excellent concert by the ‘Filarmonica Santa Cecilia di Farnocchia’ band followed by a spectacular fireworks display.

Long may these events continue for they serve both a religious and a social purpose and bring the community together whether one is a believer or not.  A village without these festivities is truly a village without a soul. In three years’ time let us all trust we shall be here to celebrate another Festa Del Santissimo Crocifisso at Sn Cassiano. In the meanwhile well done to all those who participated in this great event.

 

 

 

A Swallow Starts to Fly

It’s a hundred years ago that the swallow first flew. I am, of course, referring to Puccini’s swallow, ‘La Rondine’, his unduly neglected semi-operetta which was first performed at Montecarlo (the French one…not the one near us in the Lucchesia).

We attended a performance of this truly delightful piece at the open-air theatre by Puccini’s lakeside house at Torre Del Lago this July 15th.

In the theatre’s exhibition space, among other items, there was an amazing paper sculpture which somehow reminded one of those terracotta warriors.

There was a brisk wind blowing – a ‘libeccio’ – and the Apuan Mountains and the lake could be seen crystal clear against a brilliant sunset.

It was rightly a dramatic opening to a great evening. Throughout the performance we could hear the waves lapping against the shore. It was not, however, unduly a distracting sound and the wind did wonders with the female singers’ dresses!

Up to the wrenching finale when a mini-Traviata like situation (without the heavy bits) is enacted there’s one gorgeous melody after another. Act two represents a Bohème-like café Momus scenario with lively interchanges between courting couples, a great chorus and some delicate choreography.

All I can say about the performance at Torre del Lago is that it was one of the most perfect productions I have heard there for some time. The sets and costumes were so appropriate to a nineteenth century Parisian scene and the descending circular staircase was a scenic inspiration.  The singing was on the highest level, particularly the two main protagonists Donata D’Annunzio Lombardi as Magda and Leonardo Caimi as Ruggero. The conducting by Beatrice Venezi (still not many women conductors in Italy) was most sensitive.

Every time I attend a performance of ‘la Rondine’ (which is not too often since it is one of the least given of the maestro’s works) my estimation of this opera/operetta increases. There’s so much of Puccini’s heart in it that it could only come out of a fraught extra-marital love affair (which we know now it does – with a German baroness Puccini was secretly meeting up with). If you are lucky to attend the next performance of la Rondine at the lakeside do listen out for the exquisite quartet Bevo al tuo fresco sorriso, between Magda, Ruggero, Lisette and Prunier in act two and Ruggiero’s aria:  Dimmi che vuoi seguirmi alla mia casa in act three.

It’s ‘Il sogno di Doretta’, however, which melts my heart every time I hear it. Due to the normal restrictions on taking photos or recordings at a live performance I can only present you with one of my favourite recordings: Renée Fleming

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNt3iiqjLww

Who does not know ‘La Rondine’ does not truly know Puccini!

This is the cast list of the performance we attended.

LA RONDINE

 

Production Plamen Kartaloff
Conductor  Beatrice Venezi
Magda Donata D’Annunzio Lombardi 
Lisette  Elisabetta Zizzo
Ruggero  Leonardo Caimi 
Prunier  Alberto Petricca
Rambaldo  Davide Mura
Périchaud  Alessandro Biagiotti
Gobin  Emmanuel Lombardi
Crébillon  Claudio Ottino
Yvette Anna Paola Troiano
Bianca  Anna Russo 
Suzy Donatella De Caro 

 

 

Do check out future performances at the festival’s web site at

Edizione 2017

 

PS Here is an excerpt from the performance we attended, courtesy of NOI TV. You can see how windy it was that night!

BARGA OPERA’S PROGRAMME THIS YEAR PART I

MONTEVERDI’S VESPERS OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN

On the 27th of July the 51st OperaBarga Festival begins. It’s organized by the Opera Barga Cultural Association, president Nicholas Hunt and artistic conductor Massimo Fino.

Events will take place in the charming town in various locations, alternating sacred music with chamber music, baroque music and music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy.

Thursday, July 27, at 9.30 pm – Barga Cathedral – Opening Concert with the Vespers of the Blessed Virgin by Claudio Monteverdi (on the occasion of the 450th anniversary of his birth).

Conductor: Federico Maria Sardelli

Choir and Soloists of the Ensemble and Orchestra of the Invaghiti Academy

INFO: tel / fax 0583 711068

operabarga@gmail.com

LE MUSICHE ENSEMBLE AT THE TEATRO DEI DIFFERENTI

Friday, July 28, at 9.30 pm – Teatro dei Differenti – concert by the Le Musiche Ensemble, conductor Simone Bernardini

LE MUSICHE ENSEMBLE IN THE ST. ELISABETTA CLOISTER

July 29, 6.30 pm – St. Elisabetta cloister (historical centre) – concert by the Le Musiche Ensemble, conductor Simone Bernardini

DEBORAH YORK AND PRIVITERA’S “RIME”

July 29, 9.30 pm – Teatro dei Differenti – recital with the “Rime amorose e teologiche della Nobilissima Signora Zerina Samietz di Sebenico”. (“Love and theological rhymes of the most noble lady Zerina Samietz of Šibenik”). Music by Antonello Privitera.

Performers:

 

Soprano, Deborah York

Treble viol, Alberto Rasi

Tenor viol, Claudia Pasetto

Bass viol, Paolo Biordi

Piano and direction, Stefano Salvatori

 

Deborah York is one of the most famous baroque sopranos in Europe. Graduating in musicology with the highest marks from the University of Manchester, she sings in all the major theatres of Europe and with the greatest conductors. She sang in Claudio Abbado’s last concert with the Berlin Philharmonic in May 2013, the orchestra he conducted from 1990 to 2002.

Deborah York has recorded over 40 CDs and debuted at Glyndebourne as Servilia in Mozart’s “Clemenza di Tito”. She regularly sings in the world’s major theatres (Covent Garden, Staatsoper Berlin, Opera di Roma, Teatro La Fenice, Venice, Carnegie Hall, New York, Mozarteum, Palau de La Musica). She has sung Mozart, Gluck, Handel, Britten, Monteverdi, Telemann and Purcell.

LE MUSICHE ENSEMBLE IN THE ST. ELISABETTA CLOISTER

July 30, 6.30 pm – St. Elisabetta cloister (historical centre) – concert by the Le Musiche Ensemble, conductor Simone Bernardini (see photo)

FESTIVAL ‘S CLOSING CONCERT

August 5, 9:30 pm – Chiesa del SS. Crocifisso

Closing Concert with the l’Orchestra dell’ Accademia dell’Annunciata conducted by Riccardo Doni

Angelo Calvo, Pierfrancesco Pelà, Violins

Maria Bocelli, Viola

Maria Calvo,

Maria Calvo, Violoncello

Paolo Bogno, Violone

Elisa La Marca, Liuto

 

Programme:

 

Giovanni Bassano                             RICERCATA a Violino solo

Claudio Monteverdi                         SINFONIA dall’Orfeo

ARMATO IL COR – madrigale a due transposed for two violins and basso                                                                 continuo

Andrea Falconiero                             IL SPIRITILLO for Viola and Violoncello

Christofaro Caserana                        TARANTELLA  for Viola and Violoncello

 

Giovanni Gabrieli                              CANZONI   La Spiritata

Hieronymus Kapsberger                  CANZONE I for solo Lute

Dario Castello                                    SONATA XVI a 4

Antonio Vivaldi                                  SONATA Op1 n 12  “LA FOLLIA”

Antonio Vivaldi                                  CONCERTO in C major. RV 114

Baldassarre Galuppi                         CONCERTO n. 1 a quattro in A minor,

Antonio Vivaldi                                  SINFONIA in D major, RV 125

 

____________________________