Bridging a much-needed gap

Posted on September 20, 2018 by Francis

In Italy bridges have assumed a tragic import since the collapse of part of Genoa’s Morandi Bridge in which over forty persons lost their lives. Italy, however, is the genesis of modern bridge building. The country abounds with some of the most ancient structures in the world. Roman bridges still stand after two thousand years and our mountains have timeless ancient packhorse bridges.

As for technological innovation I’ve already mentioned the amazing suspension bridge near Mammiano in my recent post at https://longoio3.com/2018/09/12/suspense-in-val-di-lima/ . An older suspension bridge is the stupendously elegant Ponte delle Catene bridging the Lima and two comuni, Bagni di Lucca at Fornoli and Borgo a Mozzano at Chiffenti.

Designed by Lorenzo Nottolini and inspired by his journey to England where he studied the structure of London’s Hammersmith Bridge (by William Tierney Clark, reconstructed by Joseph Bazalgette)

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and Bristol’s Clifton suspension bridge (Isambard Kingdom Brunel)

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the Ponte delle Catene was built in the 1840’s. Each side of the bridge is prefaced by imposing Roman-like triumphal arches and also has a terrace which serves as a centre for social gatherings.

On Saturday 15^th of September two important events took place at this bridge.

First was the inauguration of a defibrillator on the Chiffenti side of the bridge. (It’s now becoming increasingly difficult to perish of a cardiac arrest in our area. You may remember my post on the defibrillator inaugurated at San Cassiano thanks to the efforts of Paul Anthony Davies at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/10/16/living-more-safely-at-san-cassiano/)

Second was the inauguration of explanatory signage describing the history and importance of the bridge. These are located on each side of the bridge: at Chiffenti:

And at Fornoli:

After the inauguration and the speeches of the mayors and all those concerned with the two new features of the bridge there was the customary spread.

It was a beautiful day weather-wise, for Nottolini’s masterpiece and for our health welfare. Well done all those concerned. Where there’s a will there certainly is a way and one across a bridge that will stand for at least another few hundred years!

Ibiza Comes to Fornoli

Posted on September 4, 2018 by Francis

‘Es Vedrà’ is the name of a magical island off Ibiza. It is the reputed haunt of mermaids and naiads and also, in more recent times, the landing ground for UFOs.

‘Es Vedrà’ is now the name given to a new pizzeria at the end of Fornoli at the junction of the road leading to Calavorno.

Opened last week by a young couple, one the daughter of ‘La Ruota’, also in Fornoli, the location, in fact, had a previous incarnation as a pizzeria and one we frequently used to go to as a friendly rendezvous, That was quite some time back and for several years the place was closed.

(Photo courtesy of Emmanuela Ambrogi)

‘Es Vedrà’ is now a completely revamped place and the old-fashioned but dated cosiness of the former pizzeria has been transformed into something more up to date and almost minimalist.

I visited ‘Es Vedrà’ on the day of its evening opening but was unable to stay for the official opening ceremony. I am quite sure the pizzas will be up to the high standard of the former establishment and look forwards to tasting my first ‘quattro stagioni’ there soon.

Incidentally, why the name ‘Es Vedrà’? It’s because the owners, Stefania Rocchiccioli e Alessandro Fede, spent some time working in Ibiza in catering and fell in love with the place.

Bagni di Lucca may not quite have the night life of Ibiza but let’s hope that the enterprising young couple will liven things up in Fornoli with their new venture. I, for one, wish them the best of luck.

Address: Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 94, 55022 Bagni di Lucca LU

Hours: Opens at 6 pm

Telephone: 339 491 9880

Fornoli’s Speaking Guitar

Posted on July 20, 2018 by Francis

Fornoli’s summer evening announced in my post at https://longoio3.com/2018/07/12/fornolis-summer-music-and-poetry-festival/ was a great success and attendance was brim-full in that gentle summer evening.

The format was a well-tried and tested one of combining music with poetry. Sometimes the music, played by ever-developing Giacomo Brunini, was played solo;

Sometimes it was combined with poems and stories beautifully declaimed by Marco Nicoli and Piero Nannini (with excellent cueing).

And sometimes the text was recited without guitar.

There was one particular stand-alone story recited with typical verve by Piero Nannini from a collection of stories by a Polish writer, Slawomir Mrozek, referring to a hole in a bridge joining two towns which no-one town could decide to repair.

I think the laughter this hilarious story aroused was because of the resonance it had with us poor locals infested by an increasing number of pot-holes in our area.

It’s already the sixth year this unmissable event has taken place at Fornoli and every year the format is different and equally enjoyable. All praise is due to Marco Nicoli and the Mammalucco association for putting on such great and informative entertainment.

Fabulous Fun at Fornoli’s Carnival

Posted on February 14, 2018 by Francis

The word “Carnevale” means “farewell to meat” and, in the Christian calendar is the last time to have a real binge before the forty days of lent austerity. All over Italy this event is celebrated with colourful processions, events and costumes. Those who have been to the carnivals of Viareggio and Venice will know what it’s like!

The Carnevale has returned to Bagni di Lucca comune in a big way in the last few years.Created and organised by Mammalucco association founder Marco Nicoli, it’s definitely here to stay!

I’ve already posted accounts of previous Fornoli Carnevali at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/03/11/from-carnevale-to-pasqua/

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/03/10/il-carnevale-di-fornoli/

Also very enjoyable is the smaller Bagni di Lucca carnival which I’ve written about at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/02/08/villas-carnival/

Fornoli carnival’s big feature is the competition (for a euros 500 prize) between local schools for the best presentation on a given theme which, this year, was the cinema with the title ‘ciak si gira!! ‘. (Ciak is Italian for clapperboard and the phrase means ‘action’). The winning school receives the “Mammalucco Flag”.

There were seven entries; the scuola materna (nursery school) at Ponte entered for the first time this year with ‘101 Dalmatians.’(Spot Cruella?).

Other entries included ‘Pinocchio’, ‘Mary Poppins’, Chaplin’s ‘The Circus’ and ‘Little Red Riding Hood’. As traditional, the ribbon, starting the procession crossing Nottolini’s Chain Bridge, was cut by the mayors of Bagni di Lucca and Borgo a Mozzano.

Here is a kaleidoscope of images from the carnival:

Our Mammalucco, alias presenter, was Maurizio of our essential computer shop and, as usual, the indefatigable Marco organised the whole event to a T.

I was part of the jury and the winners were judged to be San Cassiano Infant school with their ‘Red Riding Hood’. I feel this was the right choice, especially as the school is threatened with closure under new plans. I hope their win will give them added morale…

Of course, all those who contributed to the carnival’s success should be rewarded and what was so extraordinary was the teachers and pupils’ inventiveness in creating brilliant mis-en-scenes with discarded materials and their skill in producing really effective creations.

Entertainment, colours and joy permeated other events, such as the Banda Bassotti street band, the Bagni di Lucca Red Cross masked group, the Scout troop, the Participation and Development Association ethnic group and much more.

Accompanying the festivities were stalls selling food and handicraft. The day was glorious with spring-like sunshine and everyone there truly enjoyed the event.

It’s these carnival events that bring everyone together, whatever their age and interests Ever more today in continuing crisis-ridden Italy some form of solidarity is needed between folk rather than a return to individuals and thinking “I’m all right Jack”.

Long may the Fornoli carnival continue from year to year and long may the organisers receive every support from the people of Bagni di Lucca.

Fornoli’s Felling Furore

Posted on February 7, 2018 by Francis

Via Papa Giovanni XXIII and Via Lima, the road connecting Bagni di Bagni di Lucca’s railway station at Fornoli to the town, forms an elegant processional way with its row of lime trees looking impressive even in their leafless winter state:

Unfortunately, alarm bells were recently sounded when marks of this kind appeared on several trees:

The marks indicate that the tree is to be felled and that is a great pity as far as Bagni di Lucca is concerned.

Whenever trees are threatened I am immediately reminded of Gerard Manley Hopkins’ touching poem:

Binsey Poplars felled 1879

My aspens dear, whose airy cages quelled,

Quelled or quenched in leaves the leaping sun,

All felled, felled, are all felled;

Of a fresh and following folded rank

Not spared, not one

That dandled a sandalled

Shadow that swam or sank

On meadow & river & wind-wandering weed-winding bank.

O if we but knew what we do

When we delve or hew —

Hack and rack the growing green!

Since country is so tender

To touch, her being só slender,

That, like this sleek and seeing ball

But a prick will make no eye at all,

Where we, even where we mean

To mend her we end her,

When we hew or delve:

After-comers cannot guess the beauty been.

Ten or twelve, only ten or twelve

Strokes of havoc unselve

The sweet especial scene,

Rural scene, a rural scene,

Sweet especial rural scene.

Already there is growing opposition to the felling of the Fornoli trees and assurances have now been issued by the authorities that only necessary tree removal will be undertaken. After all, it would not be nice if a rotten branch dropped on one. Here are two articles by our Fornoli journalist-in-residence, Marco Nicoli, regarding the matter:

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Because trees have a rather longer life than we have it always comes as a shock that they, too, must end their days. Already the entrance into Lucca from the north has changed beyond recognition as a result of the disappearance of the trees there and I am always apprehensive about how my next walk on the Lucca walls may have arborealy changed since last time.

I hope that replanting will take place promptly

In the meanwhile here is a chart, showing common trees in our area with their names and English translations, for you to swot up:

ALBERO	TREE
Melo	Apple-tree
Albicocco	Apricot-tree
Pioppo tremolo	Aspen
Faggio	Beech
Betulla	Birch
Ciliegio	Cherry-tree
Castagno	Chestnut
Cipresso	Cypress
Fico	Fig-tree
Abete	Fir
Leccio	Holm oak
Tiglio	Lime
Gelso	Mulberry
Quercia	Oak
Olivo	Olive-tree
Pesco	Peach-tree
Pero	Pear-tree
Pino	Pine
Platano	Plane
Pioppo	Poplar
Salice	Weeping-willow+

Note how fruit trees are often related to their fruit by changing their ending, e.g., Mela=apple, Melo=apple-tree

The Passing of a Great Volunteer

Posted on January 18, 2018 by Francis

Cipriano Nesti was a great example of the qualities that make Italy tick: a true sense of social responsibility without ever counting the cost, a remarkable patience and tolerance towards others and justly Christian virtues. I have known Cipriano for close on twelve years and news of his death two days ago came all the more as a shock.

(Cipriano in uniform as a volunteer of the Misericordia of Borgo a Mozzano)

I first met Cipriano when I joined a local choir, originally known as the ‘Schola Cantorum Controniensis’ but later renamed as the more manageable ‘Cantores Lucenses’. The choir specialized in Gregorian chant although its repertoire included more modern pieces on occasions. The object of the choir was to provide music for local church services and, indeed, on major feasts it did just this but it also extended its singing to other churches in the area and farther afield to Lucca and Viareggio.

(The Cantores Lucenses choir in 2006. Cipriano is the fourth from the right in the last photo, behind Lucca Cathedral’s organist, Giulia Biagetti)

The choir reached such a standard that, in 2007, it obtained the Thomas Dempster prize awarded by the UNESCO association of Pisa. (Incidentally the same prize was won last year by Virgilio Contrucci the chamberlain of the Vicaria di Val di Lima, our local mediaeval enactment group, who also won the national crossbow competition and fire their famous cannon to celebrate significant events occurring in Bagni di Lucca).

Cipriano was well-versed in music and originally considered a career in that field. Indeed, he directed his own choir at Fornoli with great competence. I also remember various occasions when Cipriano tactfully had to correct our own choirmaster over some misreading of the score or some ill-judged tempo markings.

Cipriano’s humanity spread over into his main work which was that of driving instructor at Nadia’s school in Fornoli. Here, too, I received valuable hints from him regarding the conversion of my UK license and driving experience into something more suitable for Italian road-quirks.

From 2010 Cipriano added another string to his bow when he became a volunteer of the Misericordia at Borgo a Mozzano. The Misericordia is the Italian ambulance and emergency service, almost completely run by volunteers and supported by voluntary donations.

Cipriano as choirmaster, as driving instructor and as member of the Misericordia demonstrated to all those who worked with him the virtues of forbearance and serenity. I never ever remember him losing his patience once and he faced other people’s mistakes and insistences with fortitude and the best of humour.

I cannot believe he is gone into a different world from ours. It is such a shock. But he will be ever with us when we sing, when we tackle Italian driving habits and when we need hospital assistance. Addio caro Cipriano!

Cirpiano’s funeral is today, 18^th January, at 3 pm at Fornoli church.

Fornoli’s Fleas are Jumping

Posted on September 6, 2017 by Francis

A new event for Fornoli took place last Saturday. It was the mercato delle pulci, otherwise known in English as the flea market. The brainwave of the indefatigable Marco Nicoli, journalist of ‘La Nazione’ and events impresario, the market got off to a good start in excellent weather now that the climate has become so much more bearable after the hottest summer spell we’ve had for almost fifteen years.

Marco promises the market will take place the first Saturday of September and I wish his venture all the best of luck. Certainly there was a goodly variety of items for sale from all ages and for all ages.

A Folk Evening in Fornoli

Posted on July 14, 2017 by Francis

It’s now become a tradition. On the second Thursday of July there’s a summer event held in the forecourt of the attractive church at Fornoli, Bagni di Lucca, organised by Marco Nicoli and the Mammalucco cultural association.

Previous events have included choirs, songsters, poets and actors. This year we were privileged to have the cantori (singers) of Tereglio who combined forces with a group from Coreglia Antelminelli singing canzoni popolari which are not ‘pop’, rather folk songs.

Seated in the balmy summer evening air we listened to a variety of songs ranging from ‘stornelli’, to ‘valzer’ and ‘mazurka’.

After these lively renditions there was nothing better than to adjourn to the parish hall for a delicious rinfresco.

Thanks are also due to Fornoli’s parish priest Don Giuliano Ciapi who supplied the beautiful ambience of the church forecourt.

How are you spending your sunny evenings in this incredibly warm Italian summer? Fortunately this afternoon there was a violent tempest ‘a la Vivaldi’ and much needed water dropped down on land which was prone to those forest fires which have already devastated so many parts of Sicily and southern Italy.

There is nothing more delicious than to hear the rumble of thunder and resounding drops of rain in the heat of summer here! It’s the next best thing to talking a walk through the cooling woodland.