NEW YEAR’S EVE BUFFET AND CONCERT

Monday, December 31st, starting at 8.30 pm, the GRAN CENONE DI SAN SILVESTRO will take place at the Teatro del Giglio (tenth year) with music and entertainment, aperitifs, buffet dinner, Christmas cakes and champagne by “Lazzeroni Catering srl”.

From 9 pm to 10.15 pm there’s a  GRAN GALA LIRICO organized by “PUCCINI AND LUCCA” with Deborah Vincenti, Silvia Pacini (sopranos), Giovanni Cervelli, Mattia Nebbiai (tenors) accompanied on the piano by Diego Fiorini. The program includes music by Giacomo Puccini, Giuseppe Verdi and others.

From 10:30 pm to 11:30 pm OSMANN GOLD SWING ORCHESTRA presents “From Glenn Miller to Hollywood”, a journey through the world of Swing of the ’30s,’ 40s and ’50s.

Music by Glen Miller, Duke Ellington, Frank Sinatra and many others.

From 11.45 pm to 01.30 am there’s a further concert titled “TRIONFO DI VALZER, Gran Gala Lirico Sinfonico” with soprano Francesca Maionchi and tenors Nicola Simone Mugnaini and Giovanni Cervelli. Special Guest Star: Meme Lucarelli (guitars and various surprises).

The Lucca Philharmonic Orchestra is conducted by Andrea Colombini. Music by Puccini, Johann Strauss Sr. and Jr., Verdi, Lehar and many others.

Admission (including buffet and concert events):

Stalls and first tier boxes – € 130 / second and third tiers – € 95 / galleries – € 90

Admission without buffet from midnight only: € 50 (no discounts)

Discounts available for residents from Lucca and its province inclusive of dinner and show.

 

Reservations at info@puccinielasualucca.com or infoline340 8106042 (but with confirmation from the Teatro del Giglio for numbered seats assignments)

or

TEATRO DEL GIGLIO – 0583 465320 (during booking office opening hours)

 

TICKETS ALREADY AVAILABLE – LIMITED NUMBER OF SEATS – BOOK NOW!

Two Thanksgivings!

This Sunday 11th November at Fornoli there’s the traditional Thanksgiving Day.

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Among the events there will be

  • A parade of tractors.
  • Chestnuts and other chestnut-derived goodies together with mulled wine on Saturday and Sunday afternoon prepared by the Alpini.
  • A folk song group
  • Craft and food stalls
  • Work produced by local school children
  • Chainsaw sculptures
  • At 12.30 at the Lanternina restaurant a production of ‘The Devil’s bridge’ by the Teatrino Del Serchio company.
  • At 4 pm the tractors procession will be repeated. At 5 pm the works exhibited in primary school will be awarded and there will be dances accompanied by popular music.

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Incidentally Thanksgiving Day has been recognized as a national event since 1951 and takes place between the 11th November (St Martin’s day) and 17 January (St Anthony Abbot’s day, patron of shepherds and farmers.)

PS Don’t forget, especially if you come from the other side of the pond American Thanksgiving at Alla Cantina di Carignano with Chef Paolo Monti on Thursday 22 November starting with an aperitif at 12.30  (Full menu in your November copy of ‘Grapevine’ magazine.

To reserve: 333 8617962 or editor@luccagrapevine.com

 

For more pictures of previous thanksgiving events in Fornoli plus videos of traditional folk groups and dances do see my posts at:

Thanksgiving for Tractors

Harvest Festival Fornoli Style

Death by the Spanish Flu

For speakers of Italian there are two interesting events taking place at Bagni Di Lucca’s library in the ex-Anglican church.

The first is a conference on 22 November at 4 pm on the hundredth anniversary of Rose Cleveland’s death from the Spanish flu which, it is reputed  killed more people than the Great War itself.  Rose Cleveland caught the disease when she was a nurse looking after Italian refugees fleeing from the military defeat at Caporetto in 1917.

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In Bagni di Lucca’s protestant cemetery are three tombs next to each other. They belong to Rose Elizabeth Cleveland, sister of the US president Stephen Grover Cleveland, Evangeline Whipple author of “A Famous corner of Tuscany” – a largely historical account of Bagni di Lucca and Nelly Erichsen, poet, writer painter and illustrator of Dent’s “Story of…” travel books on Italy.

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All these ladies, bound together by bonds of an affection which durst not name itself openly at the time, would need whole separate posts. Briefly, however, Rose Cleveland, aged 44, started a lesbian relationship with a wealthy widow, Evangeline Simpson, with explicitly erotic correspondence. However things cooled off when Evangeline married an Episcopal bishop from Minnesota, Henry Benjamin Whipple. By 1910, after his death, the two women rekindled their relationship and eventually moved to Bagni di Lucca, Italy to live there together. They shared the house with the English illustrator and artist Nelly Erichsen. Rose died at home on November 22, 1918 at 7:32 in the evening during the 1918 flu pandemic. She was buried there in the English Cemetery, and Evangeline was also buried next to Rose in the same cemetery 12 years later.

Each of the tombs bears a small sculpted flower linking the three together.

You can read more about Rose’s life and lesbian relationship in my post at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2014/10/08/a-rosy-relation

With reference to the Spanish flu I should add that my grandfather on my mother’s side was Italian, gained one of the highest military honours, the Medaglia d’Argento al valor militare, for heroic action on the Carso front, was made prisoner and languished in the Spielberg fortress prison in what is now the Czech republic, (the same one where writer and patriot Silvio Pellico endured ten years captivity), for over two years before being freed and returned to Italy where he caught “la spagnuola” and had to spend time in a sanatorium. Luckily he was saved; else I would not be here to write these lines.

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The other event is on 17 November at 5 pm, again in Bagni Di Lucca’s library and is a talk about religious and lay life in our Val di Lima between the seventeenth and the nineteenth centuries.

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For Our Valley’s Fallen

The 1,240,000 Italian soldiers and civilians (almost 4% of the country’s population at that time) who fell in the greatest human massacre ever perpetrated on the planet were honoured on November 4th throughout the peninsula. Our comune of Bagni di Lucca took a particularly heavy toll in the Great War. In some villages as many as a quarter of young men conscripted in the army were never to return alive…

Poignantly, some of the few to gain from this butchery were the sculptors who created war memorials. If you’ve seen the film ‘La Vie et Rien d’Autre’ (‘Life and nothing but’) by French director Bertrand Tavernier (starring the great Philippe Noiret, telling the story of Major Delaplane, whose job was to find the identities of unknown dead soldiers after the Great War and recounting the terrible psychological scars left behind by all those who survived the dreadful event) will remember the sardonic encounter between the major and a war memorial sculptor. ‘It’s going to be a field day for us’, says the sculptor. ‘A return to the renaissance; in fact a resurrection for us artists.’

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I think this is taking it a little bit too far. The sculptor in the film was clearly embittered by the slaughter of so many –  the ‘lost generation’  for there are many inspired memorials to the fallen. In particular, Edwin Lutyens’ Memorial to the Missing of the Somme at Thiepval, so eloquently described in the book of the same name by my school friend, architectural historian Gavin Stamp who, alas, is also missing to us since December last year, has been described as the greatest piece of English architecture of the twentieth century.

Thiepval Memorial to the Missing Somme France

Thiepval Memorial to the Missing Somme France

An exhibition of photographs by Sergio Garbari of our own valley’s memorials to the fallen is currently on in the foyer of Bagni di Lucca’s town hall.  Many of you will be familiar with Sergio’s astounding photographic skills, especially when he held an exhibition titled ‘‘L’irreversilibiltà del sogno’ at our late-lamented Shelley House bookshop. (See https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/08/10/infra-red-at-bagnis-shelley-house/ )

Born in Bagni di Lucca in 1955, Sergio was brought up in an ambience of film and photography thanks to his father who was chief projectionist at Florence’s Ariston cinema. (A sort of ‘Cinema Paradiso’ experience in fact!) In 1976 Sergio became an architecture student at Florence University. Since 1981 he has been official photographer for the world-famous Uffizi art gallery in Florence where he supplies pictures for exhibition catalogues. In addition, Sergio has extensively photographed the Medici villas and such iconic places as the Boboli gardens, the Medici chapel and the San Marco museum. At the same time Sergio has explored more experimental aspects of his art. For example, he exhibited photographs of the ex-prison of Thessaloniki in Greece in 2008.

Sergio (who, incidentally, was also one of the first life-guards at Bagni’s swimming pool) lingers in his photographs on the details of war memorials in such places as Bagni Di Lucca (Villa and Ponte), Fornoli, Benabbio and San Cassiano. The monochrome nature of the images adds to the pathos and tragic nature of the memorials. So much loss for so little! I sometimes wonder if those idiots who started World War two ever thought enough about the vast military graveyards that dot northern France and so many other countries. Here is a small selection of Sergio’s photos:

Of sculptors engaged in the war memorials of our Valle di Lima one name stands out, that of Alberto Cheli.

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Cheli was born in 1888 in Pieve Fosciana. In 1906, he enrolled in a sculpture course, in Lucca and in 1909, became a pupil of Francesco Petroni. In 1911 Cheli participated in an exhibition at Bagni di Lucca’s Casino with his bust of Percy Bysshe Shelley. (I wonder where that bust has disappeared to.). The following year Cheli made a bronze plate for the facade of Betti’s pharmacy in Bagni di Lucca (still visible today). He participated in the First World War as an ambulance driver. In 1923 he obtained the commission for the Monument to the Fallen of Ponte a Serraglio, which he completed in the same year, and for that of Pieve Fosciana (inaugurated in 1932). At the same time he made some bas-reliefs for the War Memorial of Carraia and of Pieve di Monti di Villa. In 1941 Cheli was employed as a technical designer at the Piaggio plant in Pontedera (where they now make the Vespa). He died in Lucca in 1947.

Yes, it’s true that some sculptors could have felt they were having a field day after the pointless wars mankind still inflicts upon itself. However, I do feel that the memorials in our comune do have a particular nobility and expressiveness that continues to help us remember the war dead and reminds us of those touching lines from Lawrence Binyon’ poem ‘For the Fallen’.

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.

 

Thankyou Sergio for your contribution to the centenary commemoration of Italy’s part in WWI and for preparing us for the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month.

PS You can read more about our war memorials in my posts at:

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/04/12/a-restored-soldier/

I took my own remembrance walk the other day: here are some of my photos:

 

 

 

 

 

Vicenza’s Palladian Splendour

Such iconic London buildings as Greenwich’s Queen’s House or Whitehall’s Banqueting Hall (in front of which King Charles I was beheaded) and Saint Paul’s church at Covent Garden – London’s first true ‘piazza’ – could never have been built had it not been for Inigo Jones’ (1573 – 1652) visit to Italy and, in particular, to Vicenza where he studied the buildings of Andrea Palladio (1508 –1580). Jones truly initiated the architectural style revolution marking the vast difference between such buildings as Hatfield House and Chiswick House.

(From top left clockwise, some buildings by Inigo Jones, Banqueting house, detail of same, Queen’s House, Saint Paul’s)

Palladio exemplified the English eighteenth century architects’ ideal and his ‘Four books on Architecture’ (1570) (of which Inigo Jones annotated a copy, now at Worcester College Oxford) were incredibly influential for the Augustan movement and the development of neo-Palladianism in Britain. Palladio’s villas, especially, became models for the distinctive English country house. In short, without Palladio there would have been no Wren, Campbell, Chambers, Hawksmoor, Adam or even Soane. As Goethe stated when he saw Palladio’s works for the first time on his famous first journey to Italy ‘n 1786

There’s something divine in his designs, nothing less than the strength of a great poet, who from truth and fiction derives a third utterly fascinating reality.

I have always wanted to visit Vicenza. The serendipitous invitation of a visit to this city by a friend I had not seen since university days, and who has since become a distinguished restoration architect, got me jumping on a train for a town which is a UNESCO world heritage site. I had to delay my visit by one day because of the atrocious meteorological conditions Italy has been massacred by, with landslides, floods, inundations and several dead. However, despite this, I did manage to reach Vicenza and the sun was shining there!

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(Friends re-united in Vicenza)

Because of the fine weather we decided on a walking trip to see the city’s exquisite palazzi. One of the first we came across was the palazzo Porto in piazza Castello, clearly unfinished but no less gorgeous because of that. Note the wonderful entasis of the columns, tapering in slightly thinner upper form to give sheer elegance to the mansion’s appearance.

There are also many buildings dating earlier, to the Venetian gothic style, including the fabulous Ca d’Oro (golden house).

My architect friend pointed out that Palladio was as much a low-cost (in materials used) architect as he was a high-class one. Columns which seem of marble are, in fact, brick covered with stucco. Even rusticated blocks are jagged bricks spread over with rendering!

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Palladio has been criticised for this but, after all, he saved his clients a lot of money by not having to transport expensive blocks of marble large distances from mountain quarries, (Vicenza is built on an alluvial plain).

Palladio has also raised problems for restorers of his creations. How much should be restored before the thing becomes overdone? Another problem is that so many of Palladio’s buildings were left unfinished at the time of his death and only completed, largely by his pupil Vincenzo Scamozzi (1548-1616), who may have altered his master’s plans to some degree and who has been saddled with  a sort of Mozart-Salieri type syndrome which fortunately has now been largely discredited.

It was a wonderful time visiting this noble city which has the great advantage of being free of the tiresome cruise-ship rabble which now sadly infests nearby Venice and has even caused one-way pedestrian circuits to be installed there.

Here are some of the Vicentine buildings and streetscapes we saw.

(PS Do note the original Juliet balcony for it was in this very house that Luigi Da Porto wrote the novella which Shakespeare turned in the play ‘Romeo and Juliet’)

For lunch we stopped to eat in the city’s Piazza dei Signori where I feasted on Vicenza’s dish par excellence ‘Bacalà alla Vigentina con Polenta.’ (Stockfish vicentine-style with polenta). Delicious!

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My favourite building was this one: the palazzo Chiericati (1550) which houses a marvellous art collection.

I love the loggias at each end which clearly must have inspired Inigo Jones’ Queen’s house at Greenwich.

I stayed at my friend’s apartment at https://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/it/veneto/bob-and-jennys-bed-and-breakfast-vicenza/6761  . To be  highly reccommended!

The following day was dull and showery so we spent the morning in the very cleverly (perhaps too cleverly) arranged Palladio museum housed in a wonderful palace he designed.

The models of the architect’s principal buildings were brilliantly done and the explanation of Palladio’s theory of proportions (which he derived from studying ancient Roman buildings and, especially, from the treatises of Vitruvius) was clear.

I gasped at the perfection of Palladio’s ‘Teatro Olimpico’, the world’s first purpose-built theatre, with its fantastic stage perspective.

I can now say that I’ve seen the three great renaissance theatres of Italy: the other two are at Sabbioneta (which we visited in 2007)

and at Parma ,(Teatro Farnese) which we saw in 2015.

In the afternoon we climbed the Monte Berico via ‘Le scalette’.

There’s also a three-kilometre gallery by Francesco Muttoni (1780) which will get one there.

At the top is the sanctuary of the Madonna of Monte Berico, originally built to commemorate an apparition of the Virgin who also saved the city from the plague. The sanctuary’s mediaeval nucleus was expanded by Carlo Borella with a Palladio- based centralised classical church built at the end of the seventeenth century.

The best thing about this site, however, are the wonderful views one gets of the city of Vicenza and beyond to the Alps, which already have their peaks covered with snow. It’s a pity the day could not be clearer – a good reason, however, to return.

In the evening we went to the Piazza dei Signori where the city’s symbol the ‘Basilica Palladiana’ is situated. Palladio surrounded the mediaeval hall with a beautiful arcade which he had to fit around the often irregular ancient vaults. Indeed, if one looks closely one can see that the end arches are not quite the same as the rest of the porticoes.

Here we were treated to an imaginative son et lumière which also recounted the disastrous event of 1945 when allied bombing set fire to this wondrous building and almost destroyed it. We also took in some halloween celebrations – Vicenza style.

The very high and very slim bell-tower next to the basilica was fortunately unharmed and somehow adds a slightly oriental touch to the complex of buildings – a classical minaret perhaps.

We had to depart on our separate ways the following morning: I for Longoio and my friends for Bologna and Ravenna.

I cannot wait to return to Vicenza in brighter weather for there are all those beautiful Palladian country villas still to visit. At least I have already seen one of them, the Villa Emo, on a visit to the Treviso Region!

Happy Birthday Papà!

I wrote this just for my facebook friends on 26th October, my father’s birthday. The entry proved so popular and received so many comments that I though it might be nice to copy it here (without the comments) as a post in my blog for those who don’t use facebook for it does explain my close family connection with Italy.

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Today is my Dad’s birthday. He would have been 104 years old but died a few days before Christmas 1990. I am grateful to my dad for many things but there’s one thing that stands out: he married an Italian lady.

Serving in the Eighth army under Monty in WWII, and at the battle of El Alamein, my father was then transferred to the Italian peninsula. It was here in the closing days of 1945 that he met my mother who was a nurse in the Tyrol. He was immediately infatuated by her with her amazing looks and her long Veronica Lake-like hair. I remember the sketch Harvey did of the mountain refuge restaurant where they would meet. (My dad was a brilliant amateur artist and, if given more time off from work, could have done a lot more in this art). Many years later Harvey and Vera returned to the place; the owners were still the same and it was truly a touching re-union.

My mother, however, had to be ‘captured’ first and Harvey did this by inviting her to London in order for her to improve her English. My mother, Vera, had been a student at Milan University and she also attended the conservatoire where she shared piano lessons with Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli. (She told me he appeared to her something of a cold fish. I cannot quite agree with this comment; Michelangeli’s interpretation of the slow movement of Ravel’s G major piano concerto has to be one of the most ravishing things ever heard on earth).

Later, because of the war (which turned her from an indoctrinated young fascist to someone utterly disillusioned with things political and never voted for anything again) Vera turned to medicine and social work.

In London Harvey would suggest places to visit for Vera. Respecting her independence of mind, he didn’t accompany her but would turn up ‘by surprise’ at the venues she decided to see. It was clear to her that these meetings were not just coincidental!

It was the love of music that united them and I still have the old 78’s of several pieces including Beethoven’s fifth symphony conducted by Koussevitzky and Tchaikovsky’s first piano concerto interpreted by Horowitz. My father had a particular affection for Mozart’s ‘Eine Kleine Nachtmusic’. I still have my mum’s 78’s of Chopin’s ballades played by Alfred Cortot, her favourite pianist.

Eventually, a love affair blossomed on both sides, the fruit of which was my mum’s pre-marital pregnancy which resulted in my being born on 8 August 1948. This would have been a scandal in a morally strict Italy, but, fortunately, my mum’s uncle, who was a priest in a Turin parish, managed to arrange a church wedding which took place in April 1948 in Milan. Interestingly, I have never seen my parents’ wedding pictures and when I discovered a 78 rpm recording dated April 1948 of the music played at their wedding – Elgar’s ‘Salut d’amour’ played excruciatingly badly and Franck’s ‘Panis Angelicus’ sung very well – my father told me that the recording was made much later than the actual wedding which had reputedly taken place in 1947!

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Of my father’s history before his Mediterranean marriage I know little. I don’t even have a photograph him before that time. His father, who served at Gallipoli in WWI, was a respected councillor for Lewisham borough in South East London, tipped to become mayor, and lived on the Bellingham estate. Dad trained in insurance and was ‘the man from the Pru’. He eventually became self-employed and formed his own company which still bears his name and which was run by my younger brother until his own death in 2013.

My father’s marriage was not without its ups and downs. I remember one particular incident when we lived in Lewisham Park and I must have been about four years old. My father was weeping on the stairs. ‘She’s left me’, he confessed to me. Of course, my mum returned the same day.

Although Harvey had no higher education he was very well informed and I remember my first knowledge about things like the planets and the animal kingdom from him. He also wrote me little stories illustrated by himself which I treasure. Above all, he instilled a love of Italy in me: my first views of Italy, and especially Venice, were through picture postcards he’d collected when in that country. I could hardly believe that a whole city was built on water like that!

My father was a very dapperly dressed man as any effective insurance rep should be. He went particularly for Italian fashions and was one of the first Englishmen to wear those pointed shoes known as ‘winkle-pickers’ and also well-cut suits bought in Milan with silvery-grey textures. Even on our holiday jaunts my father would be most elegantly dressed as this photo, taken at a Welsh border castle (Goodrich), shows.

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Of course, his brother would make fun of my dad’s shoes saying ‘how on earth’ can you fit your toes in those?’ to which my father would reply ‘they’re actually very comfortable.’ I would imagine they would have been when compared to the clod-hopping toe-capped outdated footwear most Englishmen wore at that time.

One former part-time job my father shied away from telling me about, but  had to admit he held was when we went past Catford Greyhound stadium and a relative said to me ‘your dad was a bookie there’.  Years later I went to have a meal and see the races at the stadium with my wife. Asking an older bookie there I mentioned Harvey and, sure enough, the bookie remembered him well as a very personable one!

My father’s principal asset, however, was to be immensely practical in all things. In several spheres he was, indeed also a pioneer. At a time when a typical English holiday consisted of a week in Bognor Regis my father would drive us across to Italy in his Ford Consul using maps and itineraries, courtesy of the AA.

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Not only was he a brilliant driver (he’d driven tanks during the war and enjoyed telling me that if a tank received a direct hit it was the driver who’d have had the least chance of escaping – hence the pistol supplied to tank drivers to shoot themselves in order to avoid a worse death by being burnt alive) but he was a brilliant DIY person. When we moved from our leasehold Edwardian property to a new freehold Taylor-Bros-built house at the top of Westwood Park SE23 my father and his friend, a Mr Whitehead (who sadly died while still helping my dad) built our bunk beds, cupboards shelves, a conservatory and much else.

My mother would not have survived life in the UK without my dad, she would tell us, for Harvey looked after all the tedious administration and bureaucracy of living in a fifties and sixties Britain. (Indeed, I hoped I would never become a grown-up and face all those ghastly things like paying bills, running bank accounts and the rest of the palaver.)

My father’s marriage did not go well with some of his relatives. I heard from at least one that he had been a different, more amiable person before the continental union. Obviously, I have no evidence to support this claim. What is clear, however, is that, as my mother became dependent upon my father for the practicalities of life, like being driven to her places of work (she was a social worker in the ‘lunatic ring’ surrounding London working in such places as St Ebba’s and West Park hospitals) and sorting out her admin – she never obtained a driving license or ever replaced a fuse, for example – so my father became dependent on her. On one occasion, when my mother had gone to visit some relatives in her country of birth and my father was left alone, he confessed to me that ‘when your mother is away I feel very lost’.

I suppose we are all dependent on each other in a marriage but I also feel that we should also be able to be independent of each other in equal measure. After all, we never know when it’s our turn to cross the rainbow bridge…

My father went from this earth in the best possible way: instead of lingering away for years like, sadly, my wife’s babbo he suffered a sudden heart attack while on a short stay in the Whittington hospital, London.

My mother spent nineteen years without my dad before she died, fittingly, in the country and town of her birth, Milano.

The last words I said to her were that I was glad that she had been my mum and an Italian one at that, and so grateful that she’d unknowingly introduced me to my wife-to-be, Sandra, by gifting me membership to the Italian Institute in Belgrave Square London where Sandra’s dad was secretary-general.

It is something of a deep sadness that we never managed to start our own family although we were certainly willing and able and, indeed, saw all the famous experts of the time, like Dr Steptoe and Dr Winston. On the other hand, we console ourselves with the thought that the world we live in today is going ever more calamitously further in the wrong direction.

My dad could have wedded any English lass (he was ace on the dance floor) but marrying my Italian (subsequently English-naturalised) mum was a stroke of genius on his part for which I shall be eternally grateful. Happy birthday papà! (that’s how we called him).