Don’t Miss Out on Ponte’s Casinò this Week!

Bagni di Lucca Ponte’s exhibition at the casinò celebrating International Women’s day also includes several events. On Facebook I publicised the inaugural concert at the casinò given by Eleonora Tirrito and Valentina Bartoli, who performed classic songs ranging from Modugno to Nina Simone and Carole King (and their own too). Here are a few snippets from it:

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=Q0BPtfexn4Y

 

It’s amazing that, given its quality, this was the first concert the two artistes gave. They were naturally a little nervous and my main criticism would have been that there should have been less introductory chat but I’m quite sure that they’ll have realised this by now.

The technical backup for sound and light show, incidentally, was excellent.

Another event which I had publicised was the evening dedicated to Napoleon’s sister, Paolina Borghese.

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This was another fascinating occasion with some excellent contributions.

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Paolina’s bodyguard also made a special appearance at Bagni di Lucca:

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The short documentary on Paolina was beautifully produced and included locations in Elba and Rome associated with a person who was truly a precursor of ‘women’s lib’. ‘I’m still waiting for a 14th July for women’ said Paolina and instead of posing as Diana for the sculptor Canova, (‘what me as a chaste goddess?’) decided on being the Venus Victrix in that well-known statue at Rome’s Villa Borghese.

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Bruno Micheletti, head of the local historical society, followed with a clear talk on Paolina’s sister Elisa, better known by the Lucchesi since she was princess of Lucca. Bruno mentioned Elisa’s efforts in town planning in Lucca, which did not go too well with the locals, especially as a church, famed for its miraculous picture, was demolished to give way to today’s Piazza Napoleone. Indeed, the Lucchesi don’t like to name the place with the Emperor’s name but rather as the ‘Piazza Grande’. Bruno also stated that few Lucchesi lamented Elisa’s departure from their city when the Napoleonic Empire collapsed.

You can read more about Elisa’s town planning at Lucca in my post at:

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/11/19/town-planning-elisa-style/

Parenthetically, Elisa is buried in Bologna’s San Petronio church as I have described in my facebook entry at

https://www.facebook.com/fpettitt/posts/10214908440239059

Regarding Paolina, a find by our local historical association revealed that she visited Bagni di Lucca as late as 1824, the year before she died.

A nephew of Elisa, incidentally, was the Emperor Napoleon III who, exiled after his defeat in the Franco-Prussian war, was buried at Farnborough. You can read all about this fascinating link between Lucca and Farnborough in my facebook entry at

https://www.facebook.com/fpettitt/posts/10214823717241037

The captivating evening on Paolina Borghese was concluded by an account of the supremely elegant ‘Empire style’ in furniture by Renata Frediani. Such classic items as the lyre chair:

and the boat bed

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are from this era.

Renata emphasised the fact that the Empire style was also regarded as a male ‘military’ style and was a direct reaction against the floral frivolity and elaboration of the feminine grace of the ‘ancien regime’s’ Louis XVI chic.

Paolina’s seaside villa in Viareggio has been beautifully restored with the help of Renata Frediani with original Empire furniture. It’s definately a place to go and visit.  For more information see:

https://www.visittuscany.com/en/attractions/villa-paolina-civic-museum-in-viareggio/

My next event for women’s week at Bagni di Lucca’s casino’ will be this evening’s presentation of ‘Women in music and art’ by Francesca Rafanelli Maffucci.

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Incidentally, Francesca is the wife of Samuele Maffucci (see https://www.facebook.com/samuele.maffucciorganaro.3) who works with our local San Cassiano lad Enrico Barsanti, well-known for his organ playing skills. It’s another event not to be missed.

 

 

The Sensual Pleasure of Savouring an Extra Virgin

The Lucchesia has long been famous for the high quality of its olive oil. More recently it has developed a great reputation for wine, especially in the area round Montecarlo and Fubbiano. Although I’ve had my fair share of wine tasting I’ve never been to an olive oil tasting. I was, therefore, intrigued to find there was a session on olive oil at the Terme Hotel – the one next to Bagni di Lucca’s famous hot springs.

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I’ve spent a night at the hotel in 2012, when I won a poetry competition held there, and on several occasions have swam in its small but delightful thermal pool complete with hydro massage. However, I don’t remember having visited this hall with its magnificent timber truss ceiling, beautiful floor complete with marble mosaic and elegant dining furniture. In fact, the hall has only recently been completed and is to be inaugurated as a restaurant and venue centre very soon.

 

Our oil tasting session, conducted by a true professional, started with the technique of how to taste the quality of the oil. Clench your teeth. Then take a drop of the previous oil. Breathe in through your teeth (making a slight spluttering noise) and the oil enters your palate. Three separate sensations follow in this order. First, there’s the actual taste of the oil which should have a catching bitterness about it. Second, there’s a spicy taste which can even make you cough. If you cough twice then the oil has to be of really good quality! Finally, there’s a seductive sweetness that envelops your taste buds. The quality of this sweetness will finally decide on the excellence of the oil.

 

We were given five different olive oils to taste in order. The first one didn’t seem that bad to me but when we got to the fifth I realised that the first one I’d tasted was little better than motor oil. The finest had a pungent spiciness and the sweet aftertaste was quite sexy. In fact, we savoured some of Italy’s best olive oil which is found in selected parts of Sicily.

Our professional oil taster stressed to us to the importance of reading the olive oil bottle label very carefully before buying. There are at least three main types of oil: virgin, extra virgin and DOP (i.e. very special). The quality depends on which pressing from the mill the oil is taken from. Obviously ,the extra virgin is the first pressing which oozes the most exquisite oil.

Clearly you get what you pay for. It’s no good going to a supermarket and obtaining the cheapest olive oil and thinking you’ve got a bargain. What does the label say? ‘Product of the European union’. Ugh! Some of the oil might be OK drizzled on pasta but the real test of whether an olive oil can make or break your cuisine is simple: spread some of it on a boiled potato or cannellini beans. Do they really taste better? That is the real test.

Unlike wine, which may improve with age and become a classic vintage, olive oil has a relatively brief period when it is of the highest quality. After about a year it’s only good enough to be used for frying and after a few years more it may help lubricate your bicycle chain at best.

Since the Lucchesia is so famous for its olive oil it’s a pity there aren’t more olive oil tasting sessions. Only then can visitors to the area discern what a really fine olive oil savours like. And if it does cost a little more to buy who will complain when a drop of the precious liquid will not only radically improve the taste of your salad but will also improve your health, especially your skin complexion, and your bone joints? Indeed, a massage with fine olive oil must clearly be one of the most luxuriously sensual experiences one can have on this planet!

Which reminds me: look out for the Festa dell’olio at nearby Valdottavo. It takes place during the first week-end in April.  You can read my account of it in 2017 at

Valdottavo’s Unctuous Festa

 

 

What’s on this Week-end at Bagni di Lucca

Despite the fact that Lent has now officially started and that, traditionally, we’re supposed to give up something, there’s no excuse for missing out on some very worthwhile events at Bagni di Lucca:

This Friday at 6 pm you are invited for a free aperitif and olive oil tasting at the Hotel delle Terme (that’s the one next to the thermal baths).

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One could then have a pizza in town before moving to the Casino for the free inaugural concert starring singers, Eleonora Tirrito and Valentina Bartoli, celebrating the start of women’s week.

On Saturday the art exhibition opens at 10 am.

At 5.30 pm in Bagni di Lucca’s Library (ex Anglican church) there will be a seminar entitled ‘Homage to Paolina Borghese Bonaparte’. It will include a documentary film Napoleon’s sister.

***

Incidentally, did anyone listen to that amazing concert on Radio 3 last night in which Rachel Podger and Brecon Baroque played the following pieces by renaissance and classical women composers which I doubt most men know anything about?

Francesca Caccini: Selections from Il primo libro delle musiche: ‘Romanesca’ No 4 Madrigal ‘Maria, dolce Maria’; No 34 Canzonatta ‘Fresche aurette’;No 28 Canzonatta ‘Non sò se quel sorriso’

Isabella Leonarda: Sonata duodecima, Op 16

Francesca Caccini: Ciaccona from Il primo libro delle musiche, ‘O chiome belle’ from Il primo libro delle musiche

Élisabeth-Claude Jacquet de La Guerre: Violin Sonata No 2 in D Les Sommeil d’Ulisse from Cantates françoises, No. 3

(You can hear pieces from the concert for a few more days at

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0002zg9)

The fact is that only in recent years have ‘hidden’ women composers and artists come out of the cupboards power-freaked men have placed them in for too long.

Some women still ask why there’s an international woman’s day anyway and why there isn’t an equivalent men’s day. The problem is that for too long women and men have been treated un-equivalently. ‘Mendelssohn’, for example, brings to mind Felix and not his brilliant composer sister, Fanny from which he borrowed several of his themes and even passed off quite a few of her works as his own! To say nothing of ‘Schumann’ when Robert springs to attention and Clara, his wife, with her equally fine compositions is neglected. Indeed, Clara was brainwashed by the conventions of the time to give up composition when she married Robert and devote instead to caring for and nurturing her husband’s obviously ‘superior’ talent.

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(Recognize some of the hidden women composers of the past?)

Fortunately, such absurd views are now ever more being dispelled in the modern world. Well, in many places. I read today that Google is refusing to remove a Saudi government app that lets men track and control women. Through this imprisoning technology men are given power to grant and withdraw travel permission and set up SMS alerts when passports are being used by (their…) women.

Just for that situation there’s reason enough to continue to celebrate an international women’s day.

 

 

A 2019 Celebration of Women in Bagni di Lucca

One of the events that has put Bagni di Lucca firmly on the map – its international celebration of women and their creative achievements – is about to take place at Ponte’s Casino from the 8th to the 14th of this month. Don’t miss out!

Here is the calendar of events:

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And here are the contributing artists:

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I’ve written extensively about the Festa or ‘Omaggio alla Donna’ in my blog. For reference I include the main articles below. They are not only a record of previous events celebrating women and all organised by the indefatigable artist Morena Guarnaschelli but they also comment on various aspects of both the contributions and the difficulties of women in today’s ever-troubled world.

2013

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/03/09/16/

2014

https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/03/09/la-festa-della-donna-2014/

2015

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2015/03/15/una-serenata-stupenda/

2016

https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/03/07/23450/

2017

Magic Moments at Bagni di Lucca’s Casinò

2018

https://longoio3.com/2018/02/18/international-womens-day/

Indeed, my first post on the event also happens to be the third ever post I wrote. (The first blog post was on March 7th so now it’s six years that I’ve been continuously blogging. To-date there have been two thousand and eight posts from my hand.

 

 

Over the Moon at Fornoli’s Carnival

I’m old enough to remember the first moon landing fifty years ago. In case you don’t remember, it was US Commander Neil Armstrong and lunar module pilot Buzz Aldrin who landed the Apollo Lunar Module Eagle on July 20, 1969 and it was Armstrong who was the first person to step onto the lunar surface, pronouncing that immortal line “That’s one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind”.

Many things rushed through my mind at that time as I gazed at the moon. I’d thought of the ‘Lunar landing’ sequence in the classic BBC radio series ‘Journey into Space’ and a line from Keats’ ‘Ode on a Grecian Urn’:  It seemed to me that the moon was no longer that ‘unravished bride of quietness’ but now another part of the universe, ready to be despoiled and polluted by man.

Now the Moon is back in the headlines with that extravagant person, Elon Musk, and his company ‘SpaceX’. Have you booked your ticket yet for the first private passenger spaceship he plans to fly around the Moon? Don’t be left behind!

The teachers of our local schools and their classes had great fun in thinking about ideas and themes for this year’s  Fornoli Carnival, the seventh so far. Just look at these snaphots I took of the event which took place in warm winter sunshine.

 

 

All schools were winners in their own imaginative way but, naturally, there was a first prize (Euro 250) and it went to the combined primary schools of Bagni di Lucca Villa and Scesta (Scesta’s school is being rebuilt so the two have been temporarily amalgamated).

Carnivals are wonderful ways of integrating communities, giving children one of the best times in their annual school calendars, enlivening educational themes and promoting friendly rivalry between different areas of our comune. I wish carnivals could spread more widely in the UK, too.

None of Fornoli’s great fun event would have been possible had it not been for the indefatigable efforts of Marco Nicoli and the Mammalucco association he is principal founder of. Seven years ago Fornoli’s carnival was revived and it has grown from strength to strength. Long may the carnival tradition continue at Fornoli and bring a smile, some colour and truly needed joy in these ‘tempi difficili’.

 

 

 

Con I Cavalieri del Tempio

Il cerchio è la forma geometrica più perfetta. E’ il proprio principio e la propria fine – l’alfa e l’omega. Simboleggia l’eternità, il sole, l’aureola dei santi, e la prima chiesa mai costruita, quella del Santo Sepolcro a Gerusalemme, è su piano circolare. A questa chiesa vengono pellegrini da tutte le parti del mondo Cristiano e, per proteggerli nel loro viaggio pericoloso, fu istituito l’ordine dei Cavalieri Templari – Templari perché guardiani del sommo Tempio di Cristo – il luogo della Sua morte e della Sua resurrezione.

Ovunque stabilirono i loro centri, i Templari costruivano chiese in forma circolare. Con questa forma fu consacrata la chiesa dei Cavalieri a Londra il 10 febbraio 1185 dal patriarca Eraclio di Gerusalemme. Purtroppo, i Templari furono poi accusati di avere troppo potere e richezza – infatti, diventarono tra i primi banchieri dell’occidente – e furono dissolti dal re Edoardo II nel 1307.

I Templari furono seguiti dai Cavalieri Ospedalieri che diedero in affitto la Chiesa del Tempio di Londra – Temple Church – agli avvocati e dottori di legge; cosicché oggi la sua zona ospita due dei quattro ‘Inns of Court’, cioè collegi di legge di Londra: l ’inner temple’ e il ’middle temple’. (Gli altri due sono Lincoln’s Inn e Grays’ Inn, tutti e quattro nel medesimo fascio tra Westminster e la City, una vera cittadella legale vicina al tribunale principale di giustizia).

La parte rotonda della chiesa fu ampliata da un coro a tre navate e la chiesa dei Templari, ora dei Cavalieri Ospedalieri, è data in affitto perpetuo ai collegi legali del Temple che la usano per le cerimonie religiose e secolari.

(La colonna con due templari sullo stesso cavallo fu eretta nel 2000 e indica l’originale poverta’ dei cavalieri che non potevano comprarsi il proprio cavallo.)

Nella seconda guerra il Temple church fu gravemente danneggiato dalle bombe tedesche ma fu restaurata e ridedicata nel 1958.

E’ famosa per la sua musica. Fu qui che il primo grande successo del disco di musica classica è stato registrato nel 1927: l’inno ‘Hear my prayer’ di Mendelssohn, cantato dalla voce bianca di Ernest Lough e accompagnato sull’organo da Thalben-Ball. Questo disco ha venduto più di un milione di copie ed è ancora comprato oggi per la sua squisitezza quasi cent’anni dopo la sua registrazione! Ascoltate e godete il suo incanto:

Più recentemente fu eseguita la prima dell’immenso ‘Il Velo del Tempio’ del grande compositore John Tavener, un’opera che dura sette ore. Morto solo nel 2013 Tavener è anche famoso per la sua ‘Canzone per Atene’ (originariamente scritta per una giovane attrice Greca morta in un incidente stradale) che fu eseguita anche per il funerale della principessa Diana nel 1997.

28 di Gennaio di quest’anno abbiamo partecipato a un vespro commemorativo per John Tavener in questa stessa chiesa.

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Fu un’occasione assolutamente commovente che ha anche incluso la bellissima ‘canzone di Atene’. Potete ascoltarla qui:

La chiesa dei Templari è famosa per la sua acustica eccezionale e per il suo organo. Purtroppo, quello originale fu distrutto dalle bombe tedesche ma l’organo attuale, a quattro tastiere, di manifattura Harrison and Harrison, e originariamente nel castello scozzese di Glen Tanar, è tra i più magnifici strumenti di Londra, se non dell’Inghilterra. Queste sono le specifiche dello strumento:

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Oggi mercoledì all’ora di pranzo c’è un concerto d’organo in questa chiesa aperto a tutti, con offerta. E’ veramente un ‘highlight’ di una visita alla stupefacente città di Londra. Eravamo presenti quest’ultimo mercoledì e questo era il programma:

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L’organo sembrava perfettamente adatto per ogni brano eseguito, dal rinascimento inglese al romanticismo francese. Un pezzo che ho registrato in quest’occasione è la magnifica ciaccona di Buxtehude. Non sorprende che il ventenne Johann Sebastian Bach abbia camminato quattro cento kilometri da Arnstadt a Lübeck per sentire il grande maestro!

Mutabilità:

la brezza si travolge

nella tempesta.

Dalla Morte alla Nuova Vita

Dirimpetto la cappella e la casa di John Wesley, il fondatore del Metodismo (descritto nel mio post a https://longoio3.com/2018/11/22/john-wesley-a-londra/), c’è forse uno dei campisanti più emozionanti di Londra. Si chiama Bunhill fields (derivante da ‘Bone’ – Ossa, ‘Hill’- collina). Il camposanto è stato particolarmente favoreggiato dai religiosi non-conformisti, cioè i protestanti non anglicani: i quaccheri e i battisti in particolare.  Ivi sono sepolti, tra altri, il sommo poeta William Blake (1757-1827).

Le sue poesie sulla pecorella e sul leone sono note alla maggior parte dei bambini inglesi. Per me, però, il poema sulla tragica condizione umana di così tanti nell’ottocento Londinese colpisce particolarmente, poiché in numerosi istanti poco sembra essere cambiato per il meglio da quell’epoca:

I wander thro’ each charter’d street,
Near where the charter’d Thames does flow,
And mark in every face I meet,
Marks of weakness, marks of woe.
 

In every cry of every Man,
In every Infant’s cry of fear,
In every voice: in every ban,
The mind-forg’d manacles I hear.

How the Chimney-sweeper’s cry
Every black’ning Church appalls,
And the hapless Soldier’s sigh
Runs in blood down Palace walls.

But most, thro’ midnight streets I hear
How the youthful Harlot’s curse
Blasts the new born Infant’s tear,
And blights with plagues the Marriage hearse.

Vago attraverso le strade monopolizzate,
Vicino a dove scorre il Tamigi monopolizzato,
E noto in ogni faccia che incontro
I segni della debolezza, i segni del dolore.  

In ogni pianto di ogni uomo,
In ogni pianto infantile di paura,
In ogni voce: in ogni divieto,
Sento le manette forgiate dalla mente. 

Come il pianto dello spazzacamino
Atterrito dalla Chiesa annerita,
E il sospiro del soldato sfortunato
Scorre in sangue lungo i muri del palazzo.

Ma, maggiormente, attraverso le vie di mezzanotte sento
Come la maledizione della giovane prostituta
Distrugge la lacrima dell’infante neonato,
E rovina con piaghe il carro funebre del matrimonio.

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L’autore di ‘Robinson Crusoè,

Daniel Defoe (1660-1731), è qui sepolto:

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E anche l’autore di quella bellissima allegoria sulla vita cristiana, ‘Pilgrim’s progress’, (Il pellegrinaggio del Cristiano)  John Bunyan (1628-88).

che contiene questo meraviglioso inno (mie trad):

Who would true valour see,
Let him come hither;
One here will constant be,
Come wind, come weather;
There’s no discouragement
Shall make him once relent
His first avowed intent
To be a pilgrim.

 

Whoso beset him round
With dismal stories
Do but themselves confound;
His strength the more is.
No lion can him fright,
He’ll with a giant fight,
He will have a right
To be a pilgrim.

 

Hobgoblin nor foul fiend
Can daunt his spirit,
He knows he at the end
Shall life inherit.
Then fancies fly away,
He’ll fear not what men say,
He’ll labour night and day
To be a pilgrim.

 

Chi vedrebbe il vero valore,

Lascialo venire qui;

Qui sarà costante,

Venga il vento, venga il tempo.

Non c’è scoraggiamento;

Che lo farà cedere una volta

Il suo primo dichiarato intento

Di essere un pellegrino

 

Chiunque lo abbia circondato

Con storie lugubri

Confondono solo loro stessi;

La sua forza è tanto di più.

Nessun leone può spaventarlo,

Lotterà con un gigante,

Avrà il diritto

Di essere un pellegrino

 

Né folletto, né demone fallo

Può scoraggiare il proprio spirito,

Conosce che alla fine

Erediterà la vita.

Poi le fantasie voleranno via,

Non avrà paura di quello che dicono gli uomini,

Lavorerà giorno e notte

Per essere un pellegrino

 

La mia visita fu una miracolosa fusione della morte con la nuova vita poiché i narcisi primaverili, come un mare, ondeggiavano tra le tombe.

Tra i narcisi

le pietre della morte

in vita nuova.

Dydd Gŵyl Dewi Hapus!

Today it’s the first of March. It also happens to be Saint David’s day, Wales’ patron saint. As the descendant of a welsh grandmother I lay some claim to celebrate this day

Apart from spending some of my happiest times in Wales: climbing the Arans, doing Crib Goch, swimming in Cardigan bay, visiting some of the most spectacular castles in the world, I also went to evening classes at London’s City Lit. to learn a language which, in my opinion, is one of the most fascinating and beautiful tongues we have.

We also attended Welsh courses at Nant Gwrtheyrn, the language centre in North Wales, and also at the University of Wales outpost at Gregynog Hall.

Currently I’m revising my Welsh with the help of Duo lingo, However, I’ll spare your having to translate this post into the iaith paradwys and just suggest a very simple way of celebrating Dewi Sant.

The most obvious thing is through food:

Cawl (soup, often potato and leek soup) and Welsh rarebit come to mind:

Here’s one recipe for Welsh rarebit:

  • 225g grated, strong cheese such as Cheddar or Cheshire
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 level teaspoon dry mustard
  • 2 teaspoons flour
  • Shake of pepper
  • 4 tablespoons beer, Guinness or milk (Guinness gives a stronger flavour)
  • 4 slices bread toasted on 1 side only

Method

    1. Put the cheese, butter, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, flour and pepper into a saucepan.
    2. Mix well and then add the beer, Guinness or milk to moisten. Do not make it too wet!!
    3. Stir over a gentle heat until all is melted, and when it is a thick paste, stop stirring, and swivel it around the saucepan, which it will do quite easily.
    4. Leave to cool a little, and meanwhile toast the bread on one side only.
    5. Spread the rarebit over the untoasted side and brown under a hot grill.
    6. This mixture can be made and kept in the refrigerator for several days if required. Sweet white wine can be used instead of beer and gives a good flavour.

PS I’m lucky to have been given some real Welsh mustard from our neighbours in Longoio:

 

Of course, Saint David’s day wouldn’t be complete without a display of Cennin Pedr (daffodils for Anglo-Saxons). So here are a few photos I took recently of daffs from different locations in London ranging from the roof-top garden of UCH to Bunhill fields and ending up with our own little display at Longoio. I have never seen so many cennin pedr so early in the year!