Bagni di Lucca’s Concentration Camp

On 27th January 1945 Red Army troops entered the Nazi concentration and death camp of Auschwitz and came across a scene which remains indelibly etched on the world’s conscience. In 2005 a United Nations resolution instituted an International Holocaust Remembrance Day or ‘Giorno della memoria’ as it’s known here in Italy.

It’s so important to remember the most horrific genocide Europe has ever known, in which almost seven million people were killed purely on the grounds of their ethnicity, their beliefs or their sexual orientation. Forgetting what happened then only encourages further genocides in other parts of the world such as is still occuring today in countries whose names sadly crop up time and time again in the news.

Bagni di Lucca is commemorating this awful part of our history with events throughout the week.

First there’s the commemoration, at Fornoli’s Peace Park, of Liliana Urbach, the only citizen of Bagni di Lucca who died in Auschwitz aged just sixteen months.

For more on Liliana see my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/01/25/suffer-little-children/

Fascism originally did not uphold racist legislation. It was only after the conquest of Abyssinia and the establishment of the ‘East African Empire’ in 1936 that apartheid began here. Gradually this was extended through the exclusion of Jewish people from education and employment and finally led to the promulgation of racial laws with heavy punishments meted out to those who married into different ethnic groups.

I have an extensive post discussing Italy’s racial laws at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/01/21/38053/

(For Italy’s only extermination camp – in Trieste – see my post at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2017/06/04/italys-death-camp/)

The second holocaust event at Bagni di Lucca was the unveiling of a long overdue memorial plaque on the old Terme Hotel which is now crumbling amid grim desolation. It was in this hotel that ninety eight persons from Bagni di Lucca and surrounding areas were ‘concentrated’ before starting their journey to the Auschwitz death factory. Again I’ve dedicated a more-in-depth post on this hotel at https://longoio2.wordpress.com/2016/01/27/from-bagni-di-lucca-to-auschwitz/   

In that post I wrote “meanwhile, the sinister and decrepit façade of the old Hotel delle Terme has nothing to show on it that this was the last sight many people would have had of their beloved families and their beautiful country. This, in my opinion, is a scandal that must be rectified as soon as possible. Here is a building that, more than any other in this area, witnessed man’s brutality to man and people pass by it without realizing what purpose it was used for. A memorial plaque should be placed on it now because if we don’t remember……..”

(It’s also horrifically ironic that it was in this same hotel, in happier days that Puccini composed a large part of his wonderful opera, ‘Girl of the Golden West’ in 1909).

I’m glad that this omission has now been rectified.

The memorial plaque reads as follows:

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‘Here, at Bagni di Lucca’s hot baths in the old Terme hotel, Italian and foreign jews, arrested in our province by order of the Italian Social Republic, were confined. 98 old, adult and young persons left here on the 23rd of January 1944. Auschwitz was their destination, the result of racial hatred’.

Regarding this incident there are so many unanswered questions. Could anything have been done to save these ninety eight people? Did they know where they were heading to? Was it ignorance or indifference or fright of locals that marked their fateful end? Why was the god, whose temple lies opposite the hotel, so blatantly indifferent to their plight when religious brethren were particularly active and lost their lives in opposing such barbarities? (For example, the exemplary action of Don Aldo Mei – read about him in my post at https://longoio.wordpress.com/2014/05/30/forgiving-your-executioners-the-story-of-don-aldo-mei/ )

We may never know but we shall never forget!

 

 

 

 

Anyone for Lo Sci?

There’s absolutely no need to go to Abetone for one’s skiing in the Bagni di Lucca area, especially if one wants to avoid getting skied over by mad fanatics. Much more relaxing is Cutigliano which is a lot closer. Looking, however, through some pictures dating from the winter of 2003-4 I see that we tried out the ski slopes at Vianova which is five kilometres from Careggine, a beautiful village on the slopes of Monte Sumbra, just to the north of Castelnuovo Garfagnana. Here there are three skilifts serving seven kilometres of pistes and, if there wasn’t sufficient of the white stuff, snow generating equipment.

 

Although best suited for family skiing the slopes should also satisfy more expert skiers. There are also a couple of reasonable places to eat nearby.

From Vianova there’s a dramatic road leading to the Turrite valley and the picturesque, semi-abandoned village of Isola Santa.

 

The route has some great views. However, if one skids on the often icy winter conditions it’s a long way over the edge down to the valley floor.

 

Isola Santa is on the road which takes one across the main ridge of the Apuan mountains via the Cipollaio tunnel. One can also continue back to Castelnuovo and find the return route to Bagni di Lucca.

 

We have very fond memories of these places when our sole means of transport was our scooter, when everything seemed so amazingly new and when we were a little younger…

 

 

 

I ‘Monument Men’ e Altre Associazioni

Se rimane cosi tanto di bello nell’Italia a dispetto dell’ultima guerra, questo è dovuto in gran parte ai ‘monument men’ degli alleati, celebrati in un film del 2014 diretto da George Clooney. Fu veramente un’idea nuova d’istituire un reparto speciale, nell’armata degli alleati, dedicato a proteggere il maggiore possibile le grandi opere artistiche che l’Italia, più di ogni altro paese nel mondo, possiede.

Tra i fondatori di questo reparto fu ‘Teddy’ Croft-Murray, discendente di una famiglia inglese che conta tra i suoi antenati il grande compositore Wiliam Croft. Fu lui a salvare le innumerevoli opere d’arte destinate dai nazisti per le loro dimore. Si concentrò, in particolare, a una Napoli in stato tristissimo nel 1943, una situazione peggiorata dall’eruzione del Vesuvio del 1944.  Protesse l’immenso patrimonio di quella grande città impiegando parte dell’esercito britannico a difendere i musei e i monasteri contro lo sciacallaggio. Inoltre, andò a ricerca di quei tesori che erano già stati trafugati nel Terzo Reich e li trovò nelle miniere e le cave dell’Austria.

Fu ‘Teddy’ uno di quei colti ufficiali dei regimenti britannici a individuare le città che, a tutti i costi, non dovevano subire il flagello della guerra, cercando di spostare le linee di combattimento quando possibile. Dobbiamo a quest’ufficiale e i suoi assistenti, il fatto che così tante città di somma arte come Lucca, Siena e Urbino furono risparmiate dalla distruzione che, purtroppo, toccò – grazie all’ostinazione teutonica che si abbassò al combattimento, via per via – a città come Pisa e Arezzo.

(‘Teddy’ Croft-Murray, uno dei ‘Monument Men’ durante l’ultima guerra) 

Anche a Pisa, però, ‘Teddy’ fece il suo meglio per salvare quello che rimaneva degli affreschi del camposanto deturpati dal piombo che calava giù le mura grazie a una bomba incendiaria americana lanciata fuori mira.

(Pisa Camposanto 1944)

Dopo la guerra Edward Croft-Murray ritornò al suo lavoro nel dipartimento di disegni e stampe presso il British Museum e sposò la contessa Giovanna Saffi, nipote del grande patriota Aurelio Saffi, amico di Mazzini. Da questo matrimonio ebbe anche una figlia, Tania, che diventò una particolarmente sensitiva traduttrice di libri, specialmente quelli scritti da Piero Camporesi, professore di letteratura e antropologia presso l’università di Bologna.

(Un testo tradotto dalla Tania Croft-Murray)

La Lady Saffi ebbe per padre il nipote di Aurelio Saffi, Enrico Saffi che, nel 1914, sposò Tatiana Boesch, pianista di origine russo-danese. Saffi, docente delle scuole governative, nel 1919 contribuì con (tra altri) Vincenzo Cardarelli  e Antonio Baldini alla prima pubblicazione della rivista ‘La Ronda’.

Il matrimonio di Giovanna Saffi con Edward Croft-Murray si dissolse nel 1960. La Saffi lavorò come assistente ed infine sposò il grande economista Richard Stone che, nel 1984, vinse il premio Nobel per l’economia. Fu collaboratrice con lo Stone in vari testi di somma importanza nel ramo della micro-economia. In particolare, il testo National Income and Expenditure definì un intero nuovo campo della micro-economia e perfezionò l’uso di termini che oggi si sente perfino troppo sul notiziario, come il ‘P.I.L’.

(Il Professore Richard Stone 1913 – 1991)

Di questa galassia di persone insigne incontrai Richard Stone brevemente quando, come timido studente all’università di Cambridge, andai alla sua casa perché avevo capito che una bellissima ragazza alla quale mi ero innamorato all’Istituto Italiano di Cultura a Londra, (e che poi dieci anni dopo divenne la mia moglie), Alexandra, era in visita alla figliastra Tania. Infatti, da piccole Alexandra e Tania facevano il bagno insieme ed erano grandi compagne da gioco.

(Alexandra a 21 anni presso l’Istituto Italiano di Cultura a Londra)

Tania ebbe anche un periodo come cantante lirica – forse una rievoca della sua nonna musicista che tenne bellissimi saloni musicali. Quando Tania cantò la parte di Donna Elvira nel ‘Don Giovanni’, (non quello di Mozart ma quello di Giuseppe Gazzaniga, composto un anno prima del capolavoro Mozartiano e che ebbe simile successo al suo esordio a Venezia nel 1787), incontrai ‘Teddy’ Croft-Murray, una figura spiccamente Vittoriana con i suoi occhiali quasi alla John Lennon.  La performance fu all’allora Collegiate, o Bloomsbury Theatre associata con l’università di Londra.  Infatti, era lo stesso, ‘Don Giovanni’ di Gazzaniga che fu riesumato da Herbert Handt, fondatore dell’Associazione Musicale Lucchese, nel 1963.

(Giuseppe Gazzaniga (1743 – 1818)

Dopo il nostro sposalizio Alexandra ed io facemmo una visita all’antica dimora dei Croft-Murray il castello di Croft vicino al Galles. Incontrammo la sorella di ‘Teddy’ e suo marito. Il castello era veramente favoloso con anche dei manoscritti del musicista antenato settecentesco, William Croft, che scrisse cosi tanta bella musica.

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(William Croft 1678 – 1727)

E se non conoscete la musica di Croft, dovete sapere che la fuga di Bach chiamata la Santa Anna (BWV 552 in mi bemolle) è basata su un tema di Croft.

Non mi dimenticherò mai quel pomeriggio tipicamente inglese prendendo il thè nella dimora ancestrale:

 

(In visita alla sorella di Edward Croft-Murray al suo castello)

Si dice che più s’invecchia più si abbandona ai ricordi. In questo caso però mi sono abbandono alla scoperta che così tante persone che ho incontrato, anche brevemente, e che ora si trovano dall’altra parte dell’arcobaleno hanno collegamenti che non potevo mai immaginare o apprezzare nella mia gioventù.

Fishing in Florence

Tomorrow, ‘fish Friday’, as the UK ‘s supermarkets proudly proclaim, there will be another kind of fishing taking place in Florence. Indeed, there will be another instance in the space of less than a week when protestant meets Catholic.

I have recently described the wondrous appearance of perhaps the finest of Anglican choirs at the throne of Saint Peter’s Rome. A less miraculous apparition will take place this Friday in the glorious half gothic, half Alberti renaissance church of Santa Maria Novella, whose apse frescoes, among others by Giotto, greets the traveller when stepping out of the aptly named SMN station of Florence.

This apparition will, in fact, be that of the British prime minister who will, undoubtedly be misspelt ‘Teresa’ in the Italian press. She will be part of a triumvirate including Hammond, the painting of the martyrdom of whose original namesake is among the rich art treasures enshrined in this noblest of Dominican monasteries.

Now will the spirits of the fresco in the church’s chapter house of the ‘Domenici cani’, the ‘dogs of the Dominicans’ tear to pieces the present incarnation of Santa Teresa, whose intensely erotic statue by Bernini I saw earlier this week in Rome, or will she weave them into a political extasy by her pronouncements?

Fishing for the souls of a European state which, among so many other things kicked off the renaissance and modern banking (perhaps the two depended on each other?) will be difficult, especially as Florence is still owed sums of money, now running into billions of Euros with accrued compound interest, which it foolishly lent the British state during the fifteenth century.

Reading the headline of the now converted ‘Evening Standard’ (not to Catholicism I hasten to add but to a more pro-European stance) I read ‘Brexit Britain in the slow lane’.

My general feel on this whole farce, which is even more ridiculous and time and money wasting than the Forest Hill atmospheric railway of the nineteenth century, is that the only people (at least in London) who still believe in Brexshit are those who are intellectually challenged, illiterate or just plain daft.

Whatever happens in the wonderful ambience of Santa Maria Novella is anybody’s guess. I, as a hopeless idealist, still believe in a  miracle. Either a fresco will be commissioned on the subject of the conversion of Theresa (this time spelled correctly) or more groats or ‘fiorini’ (florins, as named after the city of the Lily) will be added to the huge debt Britain owes Europe and especially Italy, whose economic growth now is leaving the inhabitants of islands, first civilized by another triumvirate, this time from the capitoline hill, well on the way to economic misery and, maybe, even mayhem…

How Italian News Media Regard UK Society

British items on Italian RAI TV and newspapers are few and far between. Certainly the brexit fiasco is causing the UK to feature more on Italian TV media. Brexit is, of course, a heaven for all Euro area inhabitants as they can get a good twenty per cent more for their money as the pound sinks lower into the abyss created by misinformation and British pig- headedness.

Is it no coincidence that the epic ‘Dunkirk’ film will be on general release by the end of August? Brits seem to glorify in good losers rather than extol winners – Scott over Amundsen, for example – and it’s not just their own losers they praise: witness the Queen’s special medal given to Italian Olympic marathon runner Dorando Pietri in 1908 for losing on a technicality. This is perhaps because Italians are not good losers. It’s in their nature to be first in everything possible – rather difficult during the country’s continuing economic doldrums. That’s why Federica Pellegrini’s win in the 200 metres free-style in the recent world swimming championships was an occasion for triumph, even triumphalism. (It was a pretty sensational win, I have to admit).

Other Italian news items from a group of northern islands they consider highly eccentric (and now highly masochistic) involve the British royal family. Just wait in your doctor’s surgery here and you can easily pick up a magazine with enough stories from her Maj, William, Kate and Will and the rest of the post Saxe-Coburg bunch to fill a year’s regal gossip. That’s also thanks to the Italians’ narrowly missing keeping their royal family in the referendum in 1946. (54% percent for a republic against 46% for a monarchy – almost Brexian in closeness.)

Last night yet another news item cropped up on RAI and it was a subject very close to Italians – that of the wearing of crucifixes on one’s persons and the display of Christ on the Cross in schools and public institutions. This was the case of a white baptised Christian five-year old girl placed in foster care with a Muslim family who immediately stripped her of her crucifix neck chain.

She was then told her that her religious feasts, Easter and Christmas, were rubbish and they even denied the poor girl her favourite dish of spaghetti ‘alla carbonara’ because it contained bacon.

Things became worst when the poor girl couldn’t understand a word her Muslim foster family was saying to her and was told to learn Arabic.  Being taken out for shopping with a fully burkhaed foster-mum didn’t help either.

When finally rescued from being ‘converted’ within a strict orthodox Muslim family the girl was said to be in a state of extreme distress

The authority in charge of the fostering, Tower Hamlets, hasn’t a very good record in its social services but surely it must have realised that the little girl should have been adopted by a family closer to hers in culture and ethnicity. Tower Hamlets refused to comment on the situation. That’s not surprising from a body that is incapable of realising that multi-culturalism is dead and that integration involves more a situation of ‘when in Rome do as the Romans do’ (or, as St Augustine stated in 390 AD ‘… Romanum venio, ieiuno Sabbato; hic sum, non ieiuno: sic etiam tu, ad quam forte ecclesiam veneris, eius morem serva, si cuiquam non vis esse scandalum nec quemquam tibi.’)

The questions to be asked in this abysmal case – which in some respects must be regarded as child-abuse by the health services of a local council – are these:

  1. How can Tower Hamlets have enrolled a strict orthodox Mohamedan family as fosterers? Fostering families should have firm standards but certainly not strict dogmas. And surely is there a not- negligible connection between the extremer forms of that religion and enrolment as a jihadist.
  2. What were the circumstances that led the five-year old girl to be fostered? And did the girls’ parents have no say in the choice of the family to foster her?
  3. There are many more white family fosterers than black family fosterers in London. In fact, there is a majority of black children being fostered in white families. So why, in this case, did Tower Hamlets choose to foster a white child with a black fosterer who is supposed to be in the minority?
  4. There are further cases involving giving daily help and care to the elderly in the UK. A friend told me that her mother actually refused to open her front door when confronted on the other side by someone she described as a bundle of black cloaks and hoods. Why don’t health workers wear a defined uniform and display a badge which clearly defines their work status so that older people, not used, like younger people, to exotic clothing, are not alarmed? I was further informed that the carer wore her clothes for religious reasons. Carers should wear clothes for professional purposes, not for religious display. Is the UK really a secular society?

The little girl’s case was reported extensively both in Italian RAI TV and on the talk-shows which predominate on the Italian medium. All the case did was to encourage fear of mohamedanism as a religion, add fear to those brought up in western cultural and religious values, especially Roman Catholicism which, while not as extensively practised as in previous times is part-and-parcel of Italian cultural values, and, ultimately, to ridicule not only the inefficiency of Tower Hamlets but also the weirdness and misdirection of British society.