A Beautiful View in the Südtirol

In my post on my father at https://longoio3.com/2018/11/02/happy-birthday-papa/ I included the following paragraph:

Serving in the Eighth army under Monty in WWII, and at the battle of El Alamein, my father was then transferred to the Italian peninsula. It was here in the closing days of 1945 that he met my mother who was a nurse in the Tyrol. He was immediately infatuated by her with her amazing looks and her long Veronica Lake-like hair. I remember the sketch Harvey did of the mountain refuge restaurant where they would meet. (My dad was a brilliant amateur artist and, if given more time off from work, could have done a lot more in this art). Many years later Harvey and Vera returned to the place; the owners were still the same and it was truly a touching re-union.

I have since been contacted by a cousin who, quite by chance, mentioned she possessed some drawings which might have included something by my father. My cousin sent me photocopies of the drawings and I instantly recognised my father’s signature in one of them and, indeed, his style of drawing.

Subsequently, my cousin very kindly sent me the original drawing and here it is!

Although it’s not (as I remember the sketch) of the restaurant terrace of the hotel, it remains the ‘Albergo Bella Vista Monte Bullacia, Alpe de Suisi’, in the region of Sud Tirol, Italy. (The nearest big town to the hotel is Cortina d’Ampezzo).

The date next to my father’s signature shows 1945.

This is the albergo Bella Vista today.

I don’t have very much belonging to my dad in my possession (except, of course half of my genes) so this is truly a valuable possession.

Coincidentally, on the day this January that I received the photocopy of the drawings., I was waiting for the train at Bagni di Lucca railway station when I met an artist friend and his friend.

I mentioned to them about the possibility that I might receive the original of my father’s picture and showed them the photocopy. On the train the artist’s friend showed me on his cell-phone a photo of a war-time sketch his father had made. It was almost certainly of mountains in the Südtirol area and was drawn with the same fine-black-pen technique that my father used. (A copy of this other drawing is being sent to me)

I believe in intentional coincidences, if such an oxymoron can exist.

(I could add that my wife’s mum was born in the adjoining region just south of the hotel…)

Our lives are as gigantic jigsaw puzzles made up of myriads of tiny pieces which, in providential cases, fit together. Only find and only connect………

 

So was this the place

where thoughts of my life began:

amid snow-mountains?

 

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year!

OUR CHRONICLE FOR 2018

A chronicle for 2018? A year to remember or a year to forget?

It would be possible for me to sift through posts in my blog at https://longoio3.com/ . I won’t, however, and, instead, just recollect some things that stand out; for any year that one lives through to the end must, by definition, be a year to remember.

Nevertheless, looking through post stats, the ten receiving most hits were the following:

https://longoio3.com/2018/10/12/looking-for-the-tuscan-house-of-your-dreams/

About a beautiful property near Barga which, sadly the owner has to sell.

https://longoio3.com/2018/08/02/10215/

About a delightful concert in the grounds of Bagni di Lucca’s Villa Webb on the night of the red moon.

https://longoio3.com/2018/05/17/adieu-dear-sam/

About friend and Boccaccio scholar Samuel Stych died just short of his 102nd birthday. It was a privilege for Bagni di Lucca to have had Sam with us for such a long time.

https://longoio3.com/2018/08/08/a-wonderfully-unusual-combination-in-luc

About a great concert in Lucca’s conservatoire.

https://longoio3.com/2018/02/12/rip-rolando-simi-of-longoio/

Deaths in our village of Longoio are all the more felt especially as less than seventy persons live here.

https://longoio3.com/2018/02/13/james-taylor-at-the-lucca-summer-festival/

Lucca’s quite unmissable summer festival. I went for James Taylor but many loved the equally sensational Bonnie Raitt.

https://longoio3.com/2018/03/17/il-boccherini-di-lucca-si-fa-sentire-nella-casa-della-regina-a-londra/

This concert in London woke me up to the sensational sound of the double base when played in expert hands. You’ll notice the post is written in Italian. I’ve decided to write in Italian when talking about London and the UK, and in English when I’m in Italy in order to capture different audiences.

https://longoio3.com/2018/07/18/lucca-italys-protestant-haven/

Some posts have me researching history and some extraordinary facts arose out of this investigation.

https://longoio3.com/2018/01/26/bagni-di-luccas-concentration-camp/

A sad reminder that not even the slaughter of millions in WW1 which ended one hundred years ago could not prevent a second massacre started by racialist maniacs. War’s only victor is death.

https://longoio3.com/2018/12/29/the-secrets-of-villa-ada/

A plea that some of Bagni di Lucca’s most spectacular buildings must be saved before it is too late.

***

2018 has for us been marked by three main themes.

The first is the most important one: that of friendship. It was long-term friendship that took Sandra and me to Clifton, Bristol to spend the day with my still young-in-spirit English literature schoolmaster. It was, equally, the chance of meeting old (now, increasingly in both senses of that word) friends that took me to Florence and Bologna, to Vicenza and to Rome. Perfect days!

One can always tell what a true friendship is. It’s when you meet up with friends you may not have seen since school or university days and conviviality and conversation continues (with a certain amount of reminiscence now thrown in) from where you left off last time (which may have even dated back to Jimi Hendrix’s last UK concert in one case…)

The second is health and this year I have visited the UK more often than in other years not only for my own health but also because my wife’s mum is ninety-seven and, although, still mobile and often aware, is suffering more and more from that disease which bears the same initials as that which can afflict those of rather younger age incautious about their amorous encounters.

The third theme is one which is affecting all those with ties or affection for the United Kingdom. Never in the field of politics in my lifetime has one six-letter word divided so many people, communities, families and friends. I need not tell you that word except that an anagram of it is found in the name of a hamlet on the western side of Shetland Islands mainland; an enchanted place we visited last century during a Scottish conservation working holiday:

shetland 89066

We had some sorrows this year – our two ducks both lost their lives (and their friendship has been just as valuable to us as any other biped) but we had joys in equal measure. There were no dramatic holidays to the Far East or narrow escapes in Apennine tunnels as in 2017 but, instead, some great times exploring. visiting, walking (we both did the long route in the Lucca Villas marathon, so we must still be reasonably fit) and, above all, enjoying the start of a new decade in our lives, Yes, we are now both seventy so we should be grateful that, at least we have reached this stage of our forty-plus years of marriage together. Very grateful in fact!

 

May we take this opportunity of wishing you, our friends, our relatives and our post readers a very happy and prosperous New Year trusting that 2019 will make at least some of your dreams come true, that 2019 will be kind to you both in spirit and in health and that 2019 will still have you discover many more wonders in our still wonderful planet which now, more than ever before, urgently needs our love and care before it truly becomes too late to do anything

Alexandra and Francis

X

1

My Nine and a Half (So Far) Visits to Rome

If Italy is written in my heart then Rome is inscribed in my soul. They say all roads lead to Rome and certainly all roads in my life lead there. Rome, for me, led to an awakening at a critical age in my existence, an awakening which shall never be erased from my consciousness as long as I live.

***

My first visit to Rome was as an eight-year old in the company of my Italian grandparents. They impressed upon me the sacred nature of the Campidoglio; I was overwhelmed by the Colosseum, so much larger does it seem to a little lad than when one grows up. I have vague recollections of Saint Peter’s Rome but many other visual memories have faded. Later, I thought I might have been too young to have appreciated Rome at that age but I was assured that I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit to the eternal city.

***

My second visit to Rome was at the age of fourteen. My mother (born in Milan, Rome University student and  naturalised British through her marriage with my English father) had arranged for me to stay with a family who lived in Rome but were  spending their summer in their seaside apartment at Ostia. Most days I would board the train at Ostia and alight at stazione Ostiense with a Blue Guide and tackle different parts of the city to visit. In January of that year I’d broken my leg in an accident on ice at school. The bone had not set properly, had to be re-broken and re-set, this time with a metal rod which was never removed. During my month at King’s College hospital I’d received visits from my class mates and, what with getting books from them and listening to the hospital radio, my being was opened up to the extraordinary world of music, painting and architecture.  A present of Bannister Fletcher’s ‘Architecture on the comparative method’ from a doctor friend was my constant reading and I was mesmerised by the plans of Imperial Roman forums, the great gothic cathedrals, through renaissance palaces to the start of the modern age of buildings.

 

 

So, for this second visit to Rome, which lasted weeks rather than days, I was rather better prepared than my first. Indeed, never, in any subsequent visit to Rome have I seen so much and walked so extensively. I remember calling in on a convent on the Appian Way when my several blisters had burst and having my feet bandaged by a nun. Another time I was offered peaches and Frascati wine as a lunch snack in a friary near the catacombs under San Lorenzo fuori le mura – and returned to Ostia and my host, who was amused by my first somewhat tipsy state. At the baths of Caracalla, so beloved by Shelley and where he was inspired to write his greatest work ‘Prometheus Unbound’, I witnessed my first opera, ‘Aida’ complete (naturally) with elephants. No photos but several guide books from this visit.

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***

Years passed before I returned to Rome a third time and then, rather like Goethe’s second visit, (his’ Italian Journey’ describing his first visit remains one of my favourite books) I found disappointment in the city. It was winter and I remember eating in a trattoria by Saint Peter’s square but never actually wanting to enter into the great basilica itself. The façade was near, closing the wonderful key-hole shaped Bernini colonnade but my feet refused to climb the stairs into the centre of western Christianity. It was a strange time in my life when I’d decided to escape from the comfortable world of academia and become a labourer in England, working on a motorway building project. No pictures, again, from this visit.

***

When did I visit Rome, for the fourth time? It was in 2006 when I decided I would base myself in our little house in Longoio. It was an organised coach trip to see a Manet exhibition at the Vittoriale and where I also managed to see another on eighteenth century Roman art at the palazzo Venezia. I remember a strong, cold wind blowing all the time, a view from a little park where children were playing football in sight of the Colosseum, a walk past the Theatre of Marcellus and the placing of my hand in the Bocca della Verità, or mouth of truth. Fortunately my hand was not bitten off!

 

 

***

The fifth time was in 2008 in the company of an old uni friend who had bought a house in Anticoli Corrado, a village famed for the beauty of its women who are used as painters’ models.  This was a great walking tour starting from the Piazza del Popolo going down the Corso and then stepping up to the Janiculum past Bramante’s tenpietto and walking the length of the hill which offers the finest views of Rome. Spot the Pantheon, Trastevere, the Anglican church and Keats’ house below?

 

 

***

The sixth visit took place in 2011 when my wife and I met up with ex-school-mates and their wives. We joined them at the Piazza dell’Esedra after taking in a very comprehensive view of the national museum in the baths of Diocletian.

 

 

***

Should I include a fleeting visit changing trains on my way to Rome airport to catch a plane to Vietnam? My post on that is at:

A Solution to Miserable Weather

***

Then in 2014 our local choir of Ghivizzano was invited to sing in Saint Peters. Details of this seventh visit are described in my posts at

Our Choir Sings at Rome’s (and the World’s) Greatest Church

From Peter to Paul

Two Kinds of Song

Remembering Goethe, Tasso and Anita Garibaldi in Rome

***

Last year the choir of my old Cambridge College, King’s, sang in Saint Peter’s and, of course, I was there for my eighth visit. (See my posts at

Caput Mundi

Towards Rome’s Santa Maria Maggiore

King’s College Choir Arrives at Saint Peter’s Basilica

Castling in Rome

***

This year I could not miss yet again meeting up with another ex-school-mate, now living in the USA with his American wife and whose visits to Italy and Europe I had avidly been following on facebook.

Some posts of this latest visit are at:

Happy Cats in Rome

Beware the Ides of March.

Terminal Infection for the Greatest City in the World

The World’s First Shopping Mall?

That makes nine visits (and a half?) so far to Rome, each one quite different from the other. But as they say ‘Roma, una vita non basta’. (A lifetime is not enough to visit Rome). I would undoubtedly add that I’d need nine lifetimes to visit Rome rather than nine visits but then I do not have the advantage of being a cat.

 

Zeffirelli’s ‘Inferno’ Re-Created in Florence

I’ve mentioned Franco Zeffirelli’s foundation and museum in Florence in my post at https://longoio3.com/2018/05/06/an-invitation-from-franco-zeffirelli/

Last October we made a return visit to Florence as we hadn’t yet seen the museum.

Where to start with Franco’s achievements? In operatic scenography (Callas in ‘Tosca’)? In theatrical productions (‘Taming of the Shrew’ with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton)? In films (‘Tea with Mussolini’ with Judi Dench)?

I have my favourites (‘Jesus of Nazareth’, whose film sets we stumbled upon during our Tunisian honeymoon forty years ago),

‘Filumena Marturano’, a West End production with Joan Plowright, Larry Olivier’s widow, and the rehearsals of which we witnessed personally at the Italian Institute with the master himself, my father-in-law’s (the institute’s secretary-general from its inception) good friend, and, particularly, ‘Romeo and Juliet’, which had me transfixed as a teenager.

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There’s an excellent web site for Franco’s museum at

https://www.fondazionefrancozeffirelli.com/en/the-museum/

The immense achievement in theatre, opera and cinema of this genius, who was born in Vinci and is a direct descendant of Leonardo himself, is fully displayed in the fascinating museum which occupies the San Firenze baroque complex formerly occupied by the city’s tribunal. Here is a selection of costumes, photographs and posters showing the breadth of the master’s achievements.

The palazzo’s setting is spectacular and there is a very convivial bar and a cortile to relax in after your visit.

For me the most fascinating section was that dealing with the unfinished 1972 project  of making a film of Dante’s ‘Inferno’. Sandra was involved in typing the scripts and the maestro’s scenic directions. But why was the project abandoned? Zeffirelli needed special effects which, although, today, are common place in any US type blockbuster, were then not yet available. The digital revolution was in its infancy and the master’s imagination could then not be realised in cinematographic form.

These are the preparatory sketches for the imagined masterpiece.

There are so many artists in history whose vision is far ahead of any technology that could achieve it. Zeffirelli is one of them. And this is the astounding re-creation of these sketches in the film which climaxes this very special museum. Of course, you have to see it in its full size in the splendid room which displays it, to fully appreciate the unrealised masterpiece.

 

 

 

How to Enjoy an Italian Train Journey in Britain

Last month we took a train to London from a station on the network run by the c2c rail company.  c2c provides services from London to parts of Essex along the London, Tilbury and Southend railway and is the sole operator of the line.

We were returning from an event in the county of Essex which adjoins Greater London and which, in the UK referendum of June 23rd 2016, voted without exception to leave in every one of its electoral districts. Indeed, Thurrock and Castle Point had one of the country’s biggest percentage of ‘Leave’ voters with 72%.

(Essexians at the time of the 2016 referendum)

Essex also happens to contain one of the UK’s most deprived areas, Jaywick, which is receiving EU funds as part of a project to improve the quality of life of its inhabitants. (See http://ec.europa.eu/competition/consultations/2012_regional_stateaid/uk_tendring_district_council_annex2_en.pdf ).

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(A street in Jaywick, part of the Essex Riviera)

My wife was pleasantly surprised to note this writing on the train we were boarding. It was almost like being at Bagni di Lucca station (apart from the weather)!

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In fact, Trenitalia c2c Limited,  also manages 25 stations of the 28 stations it calls at.

The history of denationalization on this part of the UK railway network had been fraught since British rail’s privatisation in 1996. It was first purchased by Prism rail and ran under the name LTS. It was then rebranded as c2c (a name whose precise meaning no-one can agree on). In 2000 c2c was bought by National Express which also runs bus companies (!) National Express did not prove to be an ideal company to run the railway network and sold it to the Italian Trenitalia last year (2017).

In case you didn’t know, ‘Trenitalia’ is the primary train operator in Italy. It’s a subsidiary of ‘Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane’, which is owned by the Italian government and was established in 2000. So, in all senses of the word, the Southend lines in one of the most brexitian counties of the UK (should Essex not be rebranded Bressexit?) is run by a part of Italy’s still nationally-owned railways. Clearly those brexitians’ fares on these lines are helping to subsidise the Italian railway network! No wonder Italian train fares can be so cheap when compared to the UK’s!

I wonder if these Essexians are going to get their railways as well as their country back if brexit goes through?

Trenitalia is now bidding for the West Coast Partnership. Hopefully, that network, a disgrace to the UK, will improve under Trenitalia management.

Incidentally, the Italian railway system is one of the most important parts of the infrastructure of Italy, with a total length of 15,054 miles of track (compare that with Britain’s 9,824 miles of railway track). The Italian network has recently grown with the construction of  new high speed railways (‘Le Freccie’). Italy now has 974 miles of high speed track compared to Britain’s 71 miles of high speed track.

As for electrified track, compare Italy’s 7,407 miles with the UK’s 3,062 miles.

That’s quite apart from the fact that one can actually afford to use trains in Italy as distinct from so many journeys in the UK when (for example) it’s clear that taking a bus from Stansted airport to London is so much cheaper than going there by rail.

Incidentally these are the figures for comparison and using second-class tickets purchased at the station at the time of departure:

FROM – TO DISTANCE IN MILES TICKET COST IN STERLING COST PER MILE
Pisa airport to Bagni di Lucca 24 £7.47 30p
Stansted airport to Liverpool St, London 29 £17.00 60p

Meanwhile in Bressexit, I recall a conversation in which one person asked another ‘how did you vote in the referendum?’ The answer was, predictably, ‘leave’ but the man added ‘I did it for my children.’ Just wonder what the children will say one day?

bTYijfY

I won’t conclude with a Bressexit joke here but I’ll give a twist on a familiar one

““How many Brexiteers does it take to change a lightbulb? Whoa, whoa, whoa. I didn’t say there was a lightbulb.”

 

 

 

Ottagonalita’ a Londra

Le chiese più antiche furono edificate con pianta ottagonale. Basta pensare a San Vitale a Ravenna

che fu l’ispirazione per Carlomagno per la sua cappella reale di Aquisgrana.

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In Toscana esiste un magnifico esempio: la Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro a Pisa dell’architetto Diotisalvi che risale al dodicesimo secolo.


Il concetto di una pianta ottagonale fu particolarmente applicato ai grandi battisteri italiani. Il primo in questa forma fu il battistero degli Ariani a Ravenna che abbiamo visitato nel 2017.

I più famosi Battisteri in questa forma sono certamente quello di Parma


e quello di Firenze (dove fu battezzato il babbo di mia moglie).

battistero_firenze-1400033996.jpg
La forma ottagonale per le chiese fu largamente abbandonata in favore di quella rettangolare, con abside curva, nell’era romanica, e quella cruciforma nell’epoca medioevale. Chiaramente, per il simbolismo cristiano e per l’uso liturgico, la forma a Croce era diventata più adatta.

Durante il rinascimento ritornò il concetto di una chiesa centralizzata, rotonda ma non ottagonale. Di queste chiese ce ne sono tante in Italia; per esempio, in Toscana, l’elegante Sangallese Santa Maria delle Carceri a Prato.

prato,_santa_maria_delle_carce1686095482..jpeg

e, a Roma, lo squisito tempietto del Bramante a San Pietro in Montorio.

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Raramente risorse la forma ottagonale. A Firenze mi viene in mente solo la Chiesa dei Sette Santi Fondatori, in stile neo-gotico, costruita nel 1910 dall’architetto Luigi Caldini.


La sfida tra la Croce occidentale e la Croce greca, tra pianta rettangolare e pianta quadrata fu particolarmente dibattuta nelle grandi cattedrali di Roma (San Pietro) e Londra (San Paolo). Ambedue gli architetti, Michelangelo e Wren, desideravano chiese centralizzate a forma greca, perché considerate più perfette e vicine allo spirito di quel tempio supremo, il Pantheon, ma i loro piani dovettero essere modificati per quella cruciforme, principalmente per le esigenze liturgiche.

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(Pianta originale di Saint Paul’s Cathedral, London)

Almeno, però, nel caso di San Pietro l’altare principale si trova sotto la cupola, mentre a Saint Paul l’altare è situato nell’abside, riflettendo la vecchia cattedrale gotica.

Ritornando alla primitiva forma ottagonale e centralizzata, in Inghilterra esistono quattro chiese circolari che risalgono al medioevo e che sono certamente ispirate alla Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro di Gerusalemme.

Queste chiese sono:

1. Holy Sepulchre, Cambridge. Una chiesa ben nota da me dato che passai i miei tempi universitari in quella città.

2. St. John the Baptist, Essex.

3. Holy Sepulchre, Northampton.

4. Temple church, London. Stupenda anche per i suoi concerti d’organo.

 

(Vedere anche il mio post a:

https://longoio3.com/2018/03/06/londons-templar-knights/)

Di chiese di forma ottagonale inglesi ci sono poche. Come descritto nella mia posta sul metodismo, il fondatore, John Wesley, preferiva quest’approccio e ne esiste un bel esempio originale a Arbroath nella Scozia.


A Londra c’è un bellissimo esempio nella Chiesa di Saint Dunstan in the West che si trova nel Fleet Street.

Di origine medioevale la Chiesa fu ricostruita nel 1830 da John Shaw quando fu allargata Fleet Street. Shaw utilizzò il piano ottagonale per usufruire maggiormente lo spazio limitato concesso a lui per la ricostruzione.

La Chiesa di Saint Dunstan serba un’insigne storia. William Tyndale, il primo traduttore della Bibbia in inglese e messo al rogo nel 1536, fu qui predicatore come anche John Donne, il grande poeta metafisico diventato poi decano di Saint Paul’s.

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Il soffitto di Saint Dunstan è particolarmente stellare…

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Il campanile rievoca la forma ottagonale

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e l’orologio, con i mitici giganti Gog e Magog che battono i campanelli delle ore con i loro randelli, è menzionato da parecchi scrittori inglesi incluso Dickens (David Copperfield), Goldsmith, Trollope e Cowper.

Saint Dunstan è anche un grande esempio di ecumenismo siccome è una delle chiese inglesi che condividono il loro edificio con la chiesa ortodossa romena. Infatti, c’è un bellissimo iconostasi che occupa uno dei otto lati.

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Infine, vorrei riflettere un poco sul simbolismo mistico del numero otto. Basta pensare al segno dell’eternità: un numero otto messo sul suo lato. Infatti l’otto significa la resurrezione e la rigenerazione, venendo subito dopo il sette che significa la fine di un evento – pensa alle sette ultime parole di Cristo sul crocifisso.

Ora, poi, entriamo il mese prossimo nell’ottavo di Natale – il periodo liturgico fra il 25 dicembre e il 1 gennaio.

Se poi ci si avvia in una cultura molto diversa, quella cinese, l’otto assume un’importanza suprema. I monaci buddisti portano al collo 108 perline, e vivere al numero 88 di casa significa la possibilità di suprema felicità….ma ora sara meglio che termini questo mio post qui….solo per dire che, per me, la più favolosa manifestazione dell’ottagonalita’ è la lanterna centrale della cattedrale di Ely nel Fenland dell’Inghilterra, a me la più cara di tutte le chiese del mondo…

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Otto angeli:

apre l’apocalisse,

rinascimento.

 

Happy Birthday Papà!

I wrote this just for my facebook friends on 26th October, my father’s birthday. The entry proved so popular and received so many comments that I though it might be nice to copy it here (without the comments) as a post in my blog for those who don’t use facebook for it does explain my close family connection with Italy.

*****

Today is my Dad’s birthday. He would have been 104 years old but died a few days before Christmas 1990. I am grateful to my dad for many things but there’s one thing that stands out: he married an Italian lady.

Serving in the Eighth army under Monty in WWII, and at the battle of El Alamein, my father was then transferred to the Italian peninsula. It was here in the closing days of 1945 that he met my mother who was a nurse in the Tyrol. He was immediately infatuated by her with her amazing looks and her long Veronica Lake-like hair. I remember the sketch Harvey did of the mountain refuge restaurant where they would meet. (My dad was a brilliant amateur artist and, if given more time off from work, could have done a lot more in this art). Many years later Harvey and Vera returned to the place; the owners were still the same and it was truly a touching re-union.

My mother, however, had to be ‘captured’ first and Harvey did this by inviting her to London in order for her to improve her English. My mother, Vera, had been a student at Milan University and she also attended the conservatoire where she shared piano lessons with Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli. (She told me he appeared to her something of a cold fish. I cannot quite agree with this comment; Michelangeli’s interpretation of the slow movement of Ravel’s G major piano concerto has to be one of the most ravishing things ever heard on earth).

Later, because of the war (which turned her from an indoctrinated young fascist to someone utterly disillusioned with things political and never voted for anything again) Vera turned to medicine and social work.

In London Harvey would suggest places to visit for Vera. Respecting her independence of mind, he didn’t accompany her but would turn up ‘by surprise’ at the venues she decided to see. It was clear to her that these meetings were not just coincidental!

It was the love of music that united them and I still have the old 78’s of several pieces including Beethoven’s fifth symphony conducted by Koussevitzky and Tchaikovsky’s first piano concerto interpreted by Horowitz. My father had a particular affection for Mozart’s ‘Eine Kleine Nachtmusic’. I still have my mum’s 78’s of Chopin’s ballades played by Alfred Cortot, her favourite pianist.

Eventually, a love affair blossomed on both sides, the fruit of which was my mum’s pre-marital pregnancy which resulted in my being born on 8 August 1948. This would have been a scandal in a morally strict Italy, but, fortunately, my mum’s uncle, who was a priest in a Turin parish, managed to arrange a church wedding which took place in April 1948 in Milan. Interestingly, I have never seen my parents’ wedding pictures and when I discovered a 78 rpm recording dated April 1948 of the music played at their wedding – Elgar’s ‘Salut d’amour’ played excruciatingly badly and Franck’s ‘Panis Angelicus’ sung very well – my father told me that the recording was made much later than the actual wedding which had reputedly taken place in 1947!

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Of my father’s history before his Mediterranean marriage I know little. I don’t even have a photograph him before that time. His father, who served at Gallipoli in WWI, was a respected councillor for Lewisham borough in South East London, tipped to become mayor, and lived on the Bellingham estate. Dad trained in insurance and was ‘the man from the Pru’. He eventually became self-employed and formed his own company which still bears his name and which was run by my younger brother until his own death in 2013.

My father’s marriage was not without its ups and downs. I remember one particular incident when we lived in Lewisham Park and I must have been about four years old. My father was weeping on the stairs. ‘She’s left me’, he confessed to me. Of course, my mum returned the same day.

Although Harvey had no higher education he was very well informed and I remember my first knowledge about things like the planets and the animal kingdom from him. He also wrote me little stories illustrated by himself which I treasure. Above all, he instilled a love of Italy in me: my first views of Italy, and especially Venice, were through picture postcards he’d collected when in that country. I could hardly believe that a whole city was built on water like that!

My father was a very dapperly dressed man as any effective insurance rep should be. He went particularly for Italian fashions and was one of the first Englishmen to wear those pointed shoes known as ‘winkle-pickers’ and also well-cut suits bought in Milan with silvery-grey textures. Even on our holiday jaunts my father would be most elegantly dressed as this photo, taken at a Welsh border castle (Goodrich), shows.

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Of course, his brother would make fun of my dad’s shoes saying ‘how on earth’ can you fit your toes in those?’ to which my father would reply ‘they’re actually very comfortable.’ I would imagine they would have been when compared to the clod-hopping toe-capped outdated footwear most Englishmen wore at that time.

One former part-time job my father shied away from telling me about, but  had to admit he held was when we went past Catford Greyhound stadium and a relative said to me ‘your dad was a bookie there’.  Years later I went to have a meal and see the races at the stadium with my wife. Asking an older bookie there I mentioned Harvey and, sure enough, the bookie remembered him well as a very personable one!

My father’s principal asset, however, was to be immensely practical in all things. In several spheres he was, indeed also a pioneer. At a time when a typical English holiday consisted of a week in Bognor Regis my father would drive us across to Italy in his Ford Consul using maps and itineraries, courtesy of the AA.

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Not only was he a brilliant driver (he’d driven tanks during the war and enjoyed telling me that if a tank received a direct hit it was the driver who’d have had the least chance of escaping – hence the pistol supplied to tank drivers to shoot themselves in order to avoid a worse death by being burnt alive) but he was a brilliant DIY person. When we moved from our leasehold Edwardian property to a new freehold Taylor-Bros-built house at the top of Westwood Park SE23 my father and his friend, a Mr Whitehead (who sadly died while still helping my dad) built our bunk beds, cupboards shelves, a conservatory and much else.

My mother would not have survived life in the UK without my dad, she would tell us, for Harvey looked after all the tedious administration and bureaucracy of living in a fifties and sixties Britain. (Indeed, I hoped I would never become a grown-up and face all those ghastly things like paying bills, running bank accounts and the rest of the palaver.)

My father’s marriage did not go well with some of his relatives. I heard from at least one that he had been a different, more amiable person before the continental union. Obviously, I have no evidence to support this claim. What is clear, however, is that, as my mother became dependent upon my father for the practicalities of life, like being driven to her places of work (she was a social worker in the ‘lunatic ring’ surrounding London working in such places as St Ebba’s and West Park hospitals) and sorting out her admin – she never obtained a driving license or ever replaced a fuse, for example – so my father became dependent on her. On one occasion, when my mother had gone to visit some relatives in her country of birth and my father was left alone, he confessed to me that ‘when your mother is away I feel very lost’.

I suppose we are all dependent on each other in a marriage but I also feel that we should also be able to be independent of each other in equal measure. After all, we never know when it’s our turn to cross the rainbow bridge…

My father went from this earth in the best possible way: instead of lingering away for years like, sadly, my wife’s babbo he suffered a sudden heart attack while on a short stay in the Whittington hospital, London.

My mother spent nineteen years without my dad before she died, fittingly, in the country and town of her birth, Milano.

The last words I said to her were that I was glad that she had been my mum and an Italian one at that, and so grateful that she’d unknowingly introduced me to my wife-to-be, Sandra, by gifting me membership to the Italian Institute in Belgrave Square London where Sandra’s dad was secretary-general.

It is something of a deep sadness that we never managed to start our own family although we were certainly willing and able and, indeed, saw all the famous experts of the time, like Dr Steptoe and Dr Winston. On the other hand, we console ourselves with the thought that the world we live in today is going ever more calamitously further in the wrong direction.

My dad could have wedded any English lass (he was ace on the dance floor) but marrying my Italian (subsequently English-naturalised) mum was a stroke of genius on his part for which I shall be eternally grateful. Happy birthday papà! (that’s how we called him).

Santa Celestina: a load of hot air?

It was over ten years since I last witnessed the launch of Santa Celestina’s balloon. I wasn’t going to miss her this year!

The Balloon of Santa Celestina is made of paper and powered only by hot air. It’s launched every year around September 8 at San Marcello Pistoiese on the occasion of Santa Celestina, patron saint of the Pistoia Mountains.

Celestina was a third century martyr decapitated by the emperor Valerian, notorious for having dispatched more women than any other Roman emperor. Celestina’s remains found their last resting place in Gavinana and in the church of San Marcello Pistoiese, the busy little market town and holiday resort on the ‘high route’ between our Val di Lima and Pistoia.

 

In 1832 Tommaso and Bartolomeo Cini, during a trip to France and Switzerland, met Elias, son of Joseph Montgolfier, the inventor of the hot air balloon. Returning the visit in 1835, Elias Montgolfier gave Cini, owner of a paper mill of La Lima, a formula for the production of hot air balloon paper and a plan for their construction.

The launch date of the first balloon goes back to 1838 on the occasion of the solemn religious procession in honour of Santa Celestina. The colours chosen for the balloon were those of the Civic Guard flag of which Bartolomeo Cini was commander: green, white and red arranged horizontally (incidentally, the same colours of the Italian flag). These colours are used to this day.

Tradition says that if the balloon goes higher than the church’s bell tower it will be a lucky year for the whole mountain area, otherwise it certainly won’t….

And if the balloon catches fire through the brazier flames then it will be really doom and gloom!

We held our breath in the packed central square. The day was absolutely glorious. The balloon gradually inflated to its full, grand size.

 

I was allowed to take a peek inside the monster. It was terrifyingly hot in there!

 

Then the team held onto the balloon’s rim, crouched down, slowly lifted themselves up, held their hands high and…let go.

 

The moment the balloon left the earth to wend its way up into the bluest of skies felt quite emotional.

 

Luckily for us, the launch was very successful. The old-timers said it was the best they’d seen for years.

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We are, therefore, ensured a prosperous year ahead…at least in our mountaineous part of the world!

 

Some facts about the balloon for the technically minded:

It’s made of 24 strips of paper glued together. It is 15 metres high with a circumference of 30 metres, a total volume of 450 cubic metres and a weight of about 100 kg.

Gli Stalker

Quante persone stracciano biglietti usati, vecchi documenti e altri cartacei per poi metterli nell’apposito recipiente per la raccolta? Per poi non parlare di altri rifiuti di alluminio e di plastica e tutto il resto che si getta via giornalmente.

Niente di strano si penserebbe. Ebbene, leggendo un articolo in ‘La Nazione’ l’altro giorno imparo che una signora di provincia di Sarzana era vittima dello stalking per vari mesi. Riceveva lettere anonime scritte usando il normografo o le lettere tagliate dal giornale. Queste lettere (non firmate a mano, si capisce…) erano scritte non solo usando insulti scurrili ma riferendo a fatti personali come le abitudini e le usanze della signora, i luoghi che visitava, i particolari più intimi della sua vita, i medicinali che prendeva e altri fatti che avrebbe solo discusso con le amiche più strette. Le lettere, scritte in toni sempre più minacciosi e sconci, riferivano persino ai negozi che frequentava, al cibo che preferiva, e altri dettagli personalissimi.

Per mesi la signora riceveva queste lettere anonime minatorie che degeneravano in un’oscenità, che nemmeno il giornale poteva pubblicare, causandola di entrare in uno stato sempre più pieno di ansietà, depressione e timore. Disperata, chiamò la polizia postale che mise un sistema di sorveglianza in operazione 24 ore su 24 ore. Finalmente, è stato rintracciato il colpevole, un sessantenne, che era (pensa!) il suo vicino! Infatti, lo stesso vicino che aveva promesso alla signora, quando arrivavano queste lettere minatorie, di porgere la sua protezione in caso di assalto dal presunto ignoto di queste lettere. Trafugava le immondizie della signora quando erano esposte per la raccolta.

Adesso il colpevole è sotto arresto. Se volete sapere di più, potrete leggere l’articolo qui:

https://www.lanazione.it/…/c…/stalker-val-di-magra-1.3861788

Scrivo questo fatto perché le immondizie in questa faccenda sono due. Prima, è l’immondizia che si getta via per la raccolta dalle autorità (della quale ho già raccontato in riferimento allo sconcio della plastica in un mio recente post su facebook con consigli per evitare l’iper-plastificazione del nostro pianeta); Secondo perché l’immondizia è la persona che trafuga tra i pattumi di un’altro per cercare indizi che poi userà per scrivere lettere anonime per intimidire la sua vittima.

Ovviamente ci sono altri metodi per fare lo stalking. Per curiosità, Il nome del reato deriva da un termine di origine inglese utilizzato, anche in italiano per indicare una serie di atteggiamenti tenuti da un individuo, detto stalker, che affliggono un’altra persona, perseguitandola, generandole stati di paura e ansia, arrivando persino a compromettere lo svolgimento della normale vita quotidiana della vittima dello stalker.

Infatti, se siete appassionati di Sherlock Holmes, ricorderete che il famoso detective indossa un cappello definito’ deer-stalker’, usato in luoghi campagnoli in Inghilterra per la caccia al cervo. Infatti, codesto cappello è diventato un sinonimo della parola ‘detective’. Che ironia che adesso sia proprio lo stalker ad essere quello che è catturato da un detective!

Ovviamente, con l’era digitale non c’è solo il bisogno di frugare nelle immondizie degli altri. Basta avere qualche conoscenza di hacking (pirateria informatica) ed è possibile trovare un mucchio di altre informazioni sulla vittima dello stalker: il numero del treno che prende, la quantità di pasta che mangia in una settimana e (questo è vero ve lo assicuro perché è successo in Inghilterra quando un finto tecnico fasullo, ha messo una telecamera nella stanza da letto degli sposi) quando la vittima consuma l’atto nuziale in ‘real-time’.

Ma chi sono questi stalker, non di cervi ma di persone? Certo, non eseguano il loro atto abominevole per soldi: non sono dei ricattatori. Sono, invece, degli intimidatori il quale piacere è di vedere altre persone impaurite da lettere anonime che sembrano contenere dei dettagli abbastanza esatti su certi aspetti della vita della loro vittima. Lo stalker ha un piacere ossessivo di possesso di quella persona: quasi come fare di quel umano uno schiavo e togliere la loro libertà di movimento.

E’ proprio per questa ragione che la maggior parte degli stalker (la scienza psicologica ha poi diviso lo stalker in almeno nove tipi diversi) sono o gli ex delle loro vittime, oppure sono quelli che sono stati rifiutati d’affetto dalla loro vittima, oppure quelli che sono stati licenziati dal lavoro dalla vittima, oppure quelli che sono semplicemente gelosi dello stile di vita della loro perseguitata.

E’ quest’ultima ragione che è stata definita la maggiore causa dello stalking: cioè l’invidia, la gelosia, il rodere alla libertà di vita della vittima. Insomma il ragionamento perverso per quest’atteggiamento dello stalker è quello simile a quello che permea gli infami che celebrano il loro matrimonio col safari big-hunting e l’uccisione di una povera zebra.

Dietro ogni stalker esiste un senso d’insicurezza e, oltretutto, di bassa autostima. In più, lo stalker potrebbe anche essere colui che porta le corna e non la vittima a quattro zampe del tradizionale deer-stalker!

L’uso di Facebook senza la giusta discrezione può essere un’utile arma dello stalker criminale per assillare la vittima. Questo l’abbiamo capito con sempre più orrore sulla cronaca e sull’interrogazione dello Zuckerberg e le sue riflessioni sul possesso d’informazione sulle altre persone. Purtroppo la maggior parte della nostra vita non è più privata. A Londra, per esempio, anche come turisti, siamo sotto sorveglianza per almeno otto ore il giorno. Questo può essere utile se siamo vittime di un crimine. In altri casi può diventare una noia. Certo è stato utilissimo nel recente caso della Carrara di Lucca nel quale i colpevoli sono stati scoperti perché si sono sparati nel proprio piede…..bencistà!

Ovviamente l’arma più antica dello stalker è l’orecchio alle chiacchere d’altrui per creare calunnie. Come vanno bene le parole di quell’aria dal barbiere di Siviglia.

“La calunnia è un venticello,
un’auretta assai gentile
che insensibile, sottile,
leggermente, dolcemente
incomincia a sussurrar.
Piano piano, terra terra,
sottovoce, sibilando,
va scorrendo, va ronzando;
nelle orecchie della gente
s’introduce destramente
e le teste ed i cervelli
fa stordire e fa gonfiar.
Dalla bocca fuori uscendo
lo schiamazzo va crescendo
prende forza a poco a poco,
vola già di loco in loco;
sembra il tuono, la tempesta
che nel sen della foresta
va fischiando, brontolando
e ti fa d’orror gelar.
Alla fin trabocca e scoppia,
si propaga, si raddoppia
e produce un’esplosione
come un colpo di cannone,
un tremuoto, un temporale,
un tumulto generale,
che fa l’aria rimbombar.
E il meschino calunniato,
avvilito, calpestato,
sotto il pubblico flagello
per gran sorte ha crepar.”

Domanderete perché scrivo tutto questo sul secondo tipo d’immondizie? Perché menziono lettere e scritte anonime (e se non anonime scritte pretendendo di essere da associazioni veramente in esistenza)? Infatti, non apriamo più lettere sconosciute, così dette ‘circolari’, ma li bruciamo. Ma le tattiche sono cambiate.  Lo stalker ha cominciato ad usare le sigle di associazioni del nostro territorio e delle quali siamo membri:

 

L’anno scorso, ci è perfino arrivata dal comune, reparto tecnico, con tutta l’apparenza di essere una comunicazione ufficiale. L’abbiamo aperta. Si! era proprio una di quelle dello stalker che ci infastidiscono dal 2012. L’abbiamo portata al capo reparto che l’ha notificata al sindaco che è rimasto inorridito ed ora è intervenuta la polizia postale.

Di tutto quello che ho scritto non devo dare ragione di più. I pochi ai quali ora porgo fiducia lo sanno già. Come si direbbe in inglese lo stalker non ha una propria vita e così deve cercare di ottenere possesso della vita degli altri. Infatti, è demoniaco nel senso medievale del termine: ti vuol possedere. Ora che sappiamo chi è  la sua punizione sarà semplicemente la consapevolezza degli altri che sanno chi e che hanno solo assoluto disprezzo per l’omertà che quelli senza coraggio mostrano. Si, veramente, l’omertà è il peccato più grave che abbiamo trovato in Italia, la terra del mistero non solo della fede, non solo della sua incredibile creatività artistica ma anche delle sue congiure vergognose…

Lo stalking è un reato con gravissime pene nei paesi nordici e finalmente, come si vede nella cronaca di Sarzana, questo fatto diventa sempre più riconosciuto in Italia.

Menti piccole:

un orgoglio supremo

e si ignorante…

 

Pisa Mover or Pismover

Last year, on the 18th March, the Pisa Mover, a cable-rail shuttle service connecting Pisa central station with Pisa airport and replacing the former conventional electric rail service, was inaugurated. It cost almost 72 million euros. Of this amount public finance contributed 21 million.

As with most new transportation systems there have been both praises and complaints regarding the new service.

First the complaints:

  1. It’s expensive! A ticket costs Euros 2.70 to travel just over a mile. To compare prices and distance: a ticket from Bagni di Lucca to Pisa Central station covers a distance of 22 miles and costs Euros 5.60 This means that if the Pisa mover ticket cost were applied to the rail journey from Bagni di Lucca to Pisa central that ticket would cost almost 60 Euros!

Why is the ticket from Pisa central station to the airport so expensive? The answer is obvious: the ticket price has to cover the cost of financing the project. Whether the number of passengers using the Pisa mover will be able to recoup the cost even at this price is a moot point. It’s been estimated that ten million passengers annually must use the system for financial solvency but the current number is rarely above eight million.

  1. Walking distance to and from the interchanges at Pisa central and Pisa airport is longer creating possible difficulties for less able passengers. It’s a far cry from the formerly quick interchange to Florence or Rome trains from Pisa Central station.
  2. The system wasn’t really necessary. There was a previous rail service and when that was removed the temporary shuttle bus cost Euros 1.20 – less than half the present amount – and continued all the way to the famous leaning tower!
  3. Since the new cable-train system is incompatible with conventional rail systems all passengers must change trains and there can be no expansion of the Pisa mover for direct services to Florence and Rome from the airport.
  4. The Pisa mover is actually slower than any of the old systems, taking 8 minutes for the transit. The old conventional train system took 5 minutes and the shuttle bus 6 minutes…
  5. It’s not possible to buy on-line direct tickets to the airport from Bagni di Lucca. One needs to have some convenient cash to purchase an extra ticket at Pisa central station and, again, wages have to be paid for special assistants there to help passengers purchase tickets because of somewhat confusing auto-ticket dispensers.
  6. There are fewer seats on the new trains. Thankfully it’s a short journey.
  7. There was a corruption scandal and criminal investigation into the Pisamover construction company which was subsequently disestablished.

Second, the praises.

  1. The Pisa mover has a frequency of 12 new trains per hour instead of the old trains, which were 2 per hour and the shuttle bus which was 7 journeys per hour. However, one must remember that the old trains had greater passenger carrying capacity.
  2. There is an intermediate stop at Via di Goletta Navicelli for the additional car park.
  3. The Pisa mover is of interest to railway anoraks because of the cable transportation system involved. They can have great fun in taking photos and writing down rolling stock numbers.
  4. Can’t think of any other.

So there you have it. At least with the Pisa Mover I haven’t yet come across the chaos which ensues when London’s Piccadilly line has to cater for both rush-hour commuters and Heathrow airport passengers.