Perusing Old Photographs

This hiatus in ‘normal’ life is going to carry on for longer than we expected. Lockdown in the UK has, today, been extended for another three weeks. Unable to travel around except if the journey is strictly necessary I’ve been spending time on various household tasks which had been neglected for years. One of these is going through my photographs. It’s sometimes a joyful occupation and sometimes a sad one, especially when one considers how many loved ones are no longer with us. It is, however, always an interesting one.

One big surprise struck me when I went through my photographs from 2005, the year I purchased my house in Longoio; that is,  how many places I visited for the first time, places I thought I’d only come across years later. Certainly, we did so much local sight-seeing in that landmark year.

Many photographs naturally relate to our new house and the village in which it is located. I’ve posted several of these on our local village FB pages which can be found at:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1770997666551182/

(Administered by Longoio-born Tiziana Pazzaglia and aimed towards an Italian audience)

and

https://www.facebook.com/Longoio-271075589577951/

(Administered by me and aimed towards an English audience)

The main portion of the photographs, however, relate to such places as Colognora, a very attractive village in the nearby Val Pescaglia with a museum dedicated to that once staple food product, the chestnut.

Around Bagni di Lucca they show that we visited the ‘Cappella degli Alpini’, the sweet chapel dedicated to the Italian Alpini soldiers.

We had our first meal at the ‘Circolo dei Forestieri’ restaurant.

Further afield we achieved our first traverse of the ‘Ponte Sospeso’, the suspension bridge built by a factory owner to help his work force from the other side of the valley to turn up at work more quickly.

We discovered the wonderfully carved Romanesque church in the nearby village of San Cassiano:

We even managed it near the top of one of the highest Apennine passes, the Foce a Giovo. The snowfields stopped us but we were to have a second chance later in the year.

We visited so many more places in the space of just two months.

It’s really lovely to see these pictures again. They show us two as being full of enthusiasm, always keen to adventure to new places on our scooter (we didn’t have a car until 2008), and fifteen years younger.

 

 

Rain, Rain, Rain

It never seems to drizzle here in the Lima valley but it rains; indeed it monsoons. Two days we’ve had of almost incessant downpour and it shows in our approach roads where aqua-planing could easily be established as a sport and in normally semi-dry gullies now turned into new rivulets.

The Refubbri stream has now become a raging torrent.

The irony is that the spring where we normally obtain our water (so much preferable to the chlorinated tap water we get) is dry!

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Anyway, in all our years here we’ve never seen such a deluge of precipitation from the heavens.

We are fortunate that we live in a hilly area so the waters will drain off quickly. But where? The Lucca plain must now be sodden and large chunks of it under water.

Need we blame climate change for this?

 

Home Sweet Home

Just a bit of catching up now that I’m able to get back to my laptop. In case my blog readers were wondering what happened to me regarding medical matters, the coronarography at San Luca hospital Lucca did not go well. There was too much calcium in the heart arteries and to force one’s way through with a stent would have been tantamount to pushing a passage through a bottle with a very thin glass wall.

I was returned to Castelnuovo hospital and told to prepare for a major operation. I could choose between various hospitals for this to be carried out but chose Careggi hospital in Florence as it has a very good reputation and because I have some relatives who live close by. The ambulance came for me on the 3rd of January and I was almost immediately wheeled into the operating theatre. It was a very cold evening and the auxiliary staff had to keep warm in an adjoining room when not on duty.

I clearly cannot remember anything about the operation except to be informed, when waking up, that it was completely successful and that I was now fitted with four aortic by-passes and two heart valves. I was wheeled into the intensive care section where I felt like an accessory to that classic film ‘Alien’ since various tubes appeared to emerge from my body, which I could barely move, I remember feeling very thirsty but I was not in any particular pain. I was not very hungry and, indeed, managed to eat just enough of the ‘cibo’ bianco’ (white food i.e. semolina, rice, fruit pulp, ricotta cheese) to keep going.

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The hospital staff in all this was absolutely brilliant, even coping with that first night when I felt like I was in some ghastly endless quite nightmarish scenario. Around the third day I received my first visitor, who had to be clad in protective clothing. It was my wife’s Florentine cousin and I was sure glad to meet her! A couple days later I was transported out of intensive care into a ward I recognised as the one I had first been wheeled into when I was ambulanced to Careggi. Here Sandra finally reached me and it was so wonderful to see her again. (I think she must have been more concerned than I was about the whole palaver). It was not long now that my journey back to Castelnuovo Hospital began. Here I stayed in a ward until the doctors decided that I was in a safe enough condition to be discharged.

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It’s now a week that I am back home but the tough work begins! Already I’ve had a week of physio with two gym sessions and two cycle ones in good company with three other similarly afflicted patients and supervised by two very efficient lady psychotherapists. Today, it being such a sweet, almost spring-like day, I’ve managed my second walk down to the little local church and also indulged my first session on my laptop keyboard.

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I praise the Supreme Being for being where I am and with who I am now. I do feel really lucky and promise I shall regard each new morning that greets me with ever more gratitude.

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A New Cat-Walk

With the fine weather enveloping our Christmas season we decided to go on a walk with our cats. Carlotta and Cheekie joined for the very first time with our new feline member, Archie.

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Would he join the other two on our walk? Absolutely no problem! Archie took to the cat-walk like a treat.

Because of the rains our little mountain streams and rivulets, which often disappear entirely, were full and, while the other cats jumped over the water courses without hesitation, Archie was somewhat perplexed and looked at the rushing waters with bafflement.

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Summoning up courage and encouraged by Carlotta,

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however, he overcame his fear and performed a determined leap to  the other side.

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Archie enjoyed climbing up trees and sniffing out new trails. While Carlotta lingered behind and Cheekie decided to step out on her own path Archie was constantly at our heels and often ahead of us.

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Re-entering the village of Longoio Archie struck up friendships with at least one other local cat:

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Yes, it was a great pre-Christmas walk and to feel the sun on out faces after such a long period of dismally grey and damp weather was a real treat reflected in our Archie’s debut catwalk among the woods.

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Archie – our New Feline Arrival

It all started with a request I read, a couple of weeks back in Facebook, from a couple who had bought a farm near Montaltissimo, a village they described (and as many truly are) rather more peopled by cats than by humans. They already had two dogs and the cats didn’t really get on well with their canines. Could they find homes for them? Of the photographs shown of a kitten tom and a kitten queen (born end of June this year) I chose the tom. Our feline family had lacked a male since the death of Napoleon just before the Christmas of 2017.  Perhaps this tom might fit the bill?

I met with the couple, a little daughter and the kitten tom last Tuesday at Fornoli’s bar Serra. We transferred the tom from one cat basket to another on one of the bar’s tables much to the delight of some customers. However, the morning’s weather looked ominous. Another day of incessant rain? Oh no!

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Anyway, our new arrival (after a brief visit to our vet who has his practice close by, for a quick check-up) was securely strapped, in his basket, on the back of my scooter and we reached home without getting soaked.

Archie, as we have decided to call him (though maybe not what he calls himself – all cats have, as you know, their own secret names) quickly began to explore his new surroundings which, of course, includes the queenly trio Carlotta, Cheekie and Corneglia. Would he get on with them? Would they accept him?

Old (14) Corneglia took him into her care almost immediately.

She gave Archie a lesson on how to catch a (mechanical) mouse.

Archie was hypnotised by our fire’s flames (as cats inevitably are).

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Then there was that special feline treat of playing with the christmas tree (though happily without too much bauble boxing).

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And, last but not least, what Italian cat cannot resist dipping into a plate of spaghetti?

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I’m sure we’ll have years of fun and games with our new tom, Archie, all thanks to that FB insert.

 

Good Day Sunshine?

It’s been raining daily and often non-stop in most of Italy since All Souls day which was commemorated at the end of last October. Venice has been flooded out by the highest tide seen in years, Liguria is on its knees with landslides and interrupted communications, thousands have been made homeless: the cost of this meteorological and social disaster is of unquantifiable magnitude.

The fact that much of my electrical equipment has been knocked out thanks to our house being struck by lightning and that my washing hasn’t had a chance to dry itself in weeks pales in comparison to the difficulty so many Italians have had to put up with.

If someone still doesn’t think it’s all due to global warming or, at least, thinks that the remedies put in place to combat climatic change are sufficient should think again before they are forced to wear wet suit and aqua lungs for the rest of their lives.

 

Today comes as a morning of respite. That warm golden glow on the last of the autumn leaves is called sunshine and it is most welcome. Perhaps today the washing will finally find its place in the storage cupboard.

Meanwhile, another ‘perturbazione’ (as the Italians name their weather front), this time of a political nature, is due to hit those islands known as Ultima Thule to the conquerors that set out from these lands to conquer it: the ancient Romans.

What will be the outcome if that winter wonder of a general election of December twelfth is lost to reason and sanity?

What if brexitisis cannot find a cure for its cancerous growth over the body politic?

The UK parliament has already rejected a Brexit deal four times: just because the Irish border has now been changed from a land to a sea one is not much of a change…

British citizens will no longer have a voice in European laws and regulations but will still have to respect he EU’s decisions and pay EU tariffs.

British citizens will no longer have control over borders and immigration as they have at present, but will have to obtain permits and visas from those countries hosting non-EU immigrants who remain in the EU. And as for their health care arrangements with the EU….god forbid they should ever get ill!

The UK will lose its entire car production destined for foreign countries, and a third of manufacturing, and probably a large part of its financial business in the City (which is already being transferred to Frankfurt).

In return Brits find themselves living in a divided and misguided country with an electorate full of unrealistic expectations, a discredited political class and a parliamentary democracy ridiculed throughout the world.

Johnson the PM is a regular item of fun on Italian TV with his several comic look-alikes.

Of course, there will be quite a few who will want to follow Britain on this path.
Hurry up now to join the brexiteers and avoid the queues!

(Although you’ll get them big-time, if the leavers have their way, at such beauty spot as Stansted and Gatwick.)

Ah well..it’ll soon be Christmas…

(Our offering to the Italian ‘presepe’ -Christmas crib – this year).

Tree-Climbing with Cats

Our two cats, Carlotta and Cheekie, love to accompany us on our woodland walks. They truly enjoy exploring the wild scents, stalking each other and….climbing up trees.

It’s a well-known fact that cats are rather better at going up trees than coming down. Their retractable claws act like hooks in the ascent but the descents another matter. Our cats have realized that the best way to come down is often backwards.

Our meadow is stunningly full of flowers which include wild carnations and field orchids.

The long grasses are truly a pleasure-ground for our felines.

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It would be a real pity to have to cut these meadows, which in the UK would even receive protected status. I wonder when I’ll have the courage to use a strimmer on them?

 

Of Waterfalls

April showers, yes. Here in the Lucchesia, however, it’s more like April deluges: we’ve had more rain in the past few days than in all the time since the start of 2019.

It may be an interval to stay indoors and play a game of cards or the piano. However, stepping outside there are refreshing benefits: the smell of the damp earth, the thirst-quenching of the parched soil, the more vivid colours of the flowers and, near us the sound of rushing waters, amplified by the newly fallen drops.

As Wordsworth would have it:

 Unfathom’d dells and undiscover’d woods;                        

 Where rocks and groves the power of waters shakes

 In cataracts, or sleeps in quiet lakes.

 

Here is our local waterfall, just ten minutes away from our house, yesterday.

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Approaching the falls we were surprized by the huge bushes of white heather. Our cats, Carlotta and Cheekie were very curious about the water cascading into the hidden canyon. Fortunately, they were sensible enough not to fall down. We, however, would not have ventured so close to the edge.

 

Talking of waterfalls, here is a poem on the subject by my late uncle, Giuseppe Brunelli who died in 2016. The original is followed by my English translation:

 

LE CASCATE

12 Agosto 1943

 

Per balzi strapiombanti fra le rocce

dal fianco aperto del monte boscoso

si disserra il torrente, sparsi massi

scavalcando con gioco di gigante

che scordare non sa la sua potenza.

 

Figlio d’alti ghiacciai, le tetre forre

illumina in candore di scalee

nevose, vive qual frementi groppe

di cavalli selvaggi, archi iridati

tracciando fragili al piegare del vento.

 

Davanti alla cascata lo stupore

sacro ritrovo dell’antico uomo,

riapparso con la spoglia d’una fiera

a ripararsi i forti òmeri ignudi

nell’ebbrezza del gelido pulviscolo.

 

Fra l’inquieto agitarsi delle fronde

stillano i soliloqui di Tristano,

d’Amleto, la demenza di Chisciotte,

di Margherita, il pianto d’Ermengarda:

e si mesce nel vento un nuovo affanno.

 

Come ciottolo in fondo alla cascata

sotto il getto precipite fa gorgo

di se stesso, e sé rode, e a sé discava

nella roccia una nicchia senza pace,

così il mio cuor nel suo carcere inquieto

in un perenne turbine si volge.

 

Sopra il dosso insidioso, sull’abisso,

tu posi immota fisa sorridendo

alle acquatiche luci, che sul viso

tranquille si riflettono

 

Io miro

le alte masse che irrompono verdastre

infrangersi nel volo in bianchi nimbi

e in un tuono dibattersi sul fondo

con lotta irosa sempre risorgente.

 

Sui tuoi sciolti capelli un ramo muove

un aleggiare d’ombre e il verde piove

con ali lievi sopra il volto bruno,

su gli occhi chiari e il bianco tuo sorriso.

 

Alta sul gorgo col pensier ti libri

com’aquila impetuosa? A questa roccia

roccia io mi sento a frangere quell’urto,

urto io stesso, immoto nel tumulto.

 

Né più so di me stesso e invano un grido

levo a tratti al fragore dell’ignoto:

sento ed esito, e ancora faccio miei

sogni e presagi e brividi e terrori.

 

Prometeo incatenato un rostro invoco

a dilaniarmi in cuore quest’angoscia.

 

 

WATERFALLS

12 August 1943

 

Leaping precipitately among rocks

the torrent releases itself

from the wooded mountain’s riven side,

bounding over scattered boulders like a playful giant

unable to forget his own power.

 

Child of the high glaciers, lighting dark ravines

with a flare of snowy steps:

iridescent rainbows delicately traced by the wind,

like the shuddering backs of wild horses.

 

By the waterfall I re-live

the primal wonder of ancient men

returning clad in bearskins

protecting their nakedness

in a wild and freezing wasteland.

 

Tristan’s and Hamlet’s soliloquies,

Quixote’s madness, Margaret’s folly,

and Ermengarde’s lament

fall among the unquiet rustle of leaves

and a new anguish flows into the wind.

 

My restlessly imprisoned heart turns

on itself in a never-ending whirlpool

like a pebble underneath the waterfall

consumed by eroding a restless hollow

in the rocks below the rushing jet.

 

Motionless and smiling, you consider

the water’s light calmly reflected in your face

above the perilous bank upon the abyss.

 

I see lofty greenish forms breaking through,

shattering into white mists in flight,

thunder-like beating down onto the deep

and ever rising again in violent conflict.

 

A branch casts a soaring of shadows

on your loosened hair and greenness showers down

with light wings upon your olive face,

onto your bright eyes and your pure smile.

 

Will you fly away high above the gorge

like an impatient eagle? Before this rock

I, rock-like, feel like breaking that shock

I, in shock myself, remain unmoved in the turmoil.

 

I no longer know myself and vainly

raise a fleeting cry to the alien tumult;

I feel and exist and my dreams and forebodings,

my fears and terrors come to me again.

 

I call on Prometheus Bound for strength

to tear away this anguish from my heart.

 

Interestingly, I presented a translation of my own poem on the subject of waterfalls – this time a vanished one – for the Bagni di Lucca national poetry competition of 2012 where it won second prize. Here is the original English version written in the form of a villanelle and my Italian translation presented for the competition:

 

THE VANISHED WATERFALL

This tract of world’s eternal round struck proud:

hurled loose from rock into the forest’s void

relentless waters pounded sheer and loud.

 

Like giant’s veilèd scarf or ogre’s shroud

they leaped and sprang unbound and overjoyed:

this tract of world’s eternal round struck proud

 

celebrating descent from haloed cloud.

With shattered pines and dashing rocks destroyed

relentless waters pounded sheer and loud.

 

Precipitous, the waters fell unbowed

and crashed on stones, all energy deployed.

This tract of the eternal round struck proud,

 

aslant drowned hills and on the liquid-ploughed

ravines; with consummation fast-enjoyed

relentless waters pounded sheer and loud

 

while falls rushed past as nature’s force endowed,

their joyful sound not maddened or annoyed;

this tract of world’s eternal round struck proud:

relentless waters pounded sheer and loud.

 

 

 

LA CASCATA SVANITA

 

 

Questo tratto del tondo eterno del mondo colpì orgogliosamente:

lanciate, sciolte dalla pietra nella lacuna della foresta,

le acque implacabili s’infrangevano a picco e fortemente.

 

Come la sciarpa velata di un gigante o il sudario di un orco

saltavano e balzavano, slegate e pazze di gioia:

Questo tratto del tondo eterno del mondo colpì orgogliosamente

 

celebrando la loro discesa dalle nubi aureolate.

Con pini fracassati e pietre audaci distrutte

le acque implacabili s’infrangevano a picco e fortemente.

 

Erte, le acque abbatterono indomite

e crollarono sulle pietre, ogni energia schierata.

Questo tratto del tondo eterno del mondo colpì orgogliosamente

 

attraverso le colline affogate e sugli orridi

arati limpidamente; con una consumazione goduta rapidamente

le acque implacabili s’infrangevano a picco e fortemente

 

mentre le cascate s’affrettavano e la forza della natura dotò,

il loro suono gioioso mai esasperato o importunato;

questo tratto del tondo eterno del mondo colpì orgogliosamente:

le acque implacabili s’infrangevano a picco e fortemente.

 

 

 

 

Easter Lunch

Italian Easter eggs are a world away from the usual seasonal confectionery on sale in the UK. Here there are no crème eggs or those fabulous Cadbury’s mini ones:

(grateful donation from neighbours from the UK)

Italy, however, more than makes up for it in the sheer size of some chocolate eggs.

UOVO-ENORME

Unlike UK Easter eggs, Italian ones have their halves melded together so one must break them apart, not only to appreciate the fine chocolate (normally fondant) they are made of but also to get at the ‘sorpresa’ or surprize contained within. Usually, this prize is a simple enough thing like a piece of tinsel jewellery or a fluffy chick but sometimes (and of course one has to pay the price) it can turn out to be an expensive ring or silver statuette.

Here is one of our Easter eggs:

And here is the ‘sorpresa’ contained within. It’s an inflatable bunny at which you can throw inflatable rings. What fun!

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Our Easter lunch was a happy mixture of UK and Italy. This is what we ate:

Antipasto (or appetizer openers):

Lasagne (not your frozen rubbish but meticulously handmade with béchamel sauce by Sandra)

Involtini (lamb parcels with Easter surprise filling: sage, walnut, thyme, rosemary and bread):

Home –made Tiramisu ringed with Savoyard biscuits.

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In case you want to make your own Tiramisu (the word literally means ‘pick me up’ and it sure does!) here’s our recipe

INGREDIENTS:

  1. 2-4 eggs
  2. mascarpone
  3. espresso
  4. ladyfingers (Savoyards or Pavesini biscuits)
  5. A small spoonful of sugar
  6. A drop of alcohol e.g. amaretto or rum)
  7. A sprinkle of cocoa powder on top

METHOD

Separate 2-4 eggs, and place the egg whites in one bowl, and egg yolks in another.

Add 2 tablespoons of sugar to the egg white bowl:

Use a hand mixer to whip the egg whites to stiff peaks.

Put the stiff egg whites aside, and switch over to the egg yolk bowl.

Add 2 tablespoons of sugar to the egg yolks:

Whip this mixture for a couple of minutes, until the mixture goes from bright yellow to a pale yellow colour.

Add the mascarpone cheese (nothing else will do, not even cottage cheese…It’s a mild and creamy Italian cheese that typically comes in small tubs).

Mix in the mascarpone with the hand mixer until incorporated, and then gently fold in the stiff egg whites, 1/3 at a time:

Now build the tiramisu!

Make some proper espresso coffee. When the espresso has cooled to room temperature, combine it with a drop of amaretto or rum or suitable alcoholic drink.

Dip the ladyfingers into the espresso and alcohol mixture,

Place them in a square or circular bowl

Ring the bowl with further ladyfingers

Then pour over a layer of the mascarpone cream to cover, and repeat.

Put the tiramisu in the fridge for around five hours minimum so as to let the layers soak into each other and combine the flavours.

Serve the tiramisu cold, with a dusting of cocoa powder on top.

***

The other essential ingredient of the Italian Easter is the cake. Nationally it’s ‘La Colombina’, or little dove, a delicious cake with candied fruit and almond nuts. Here is the one we bought:

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Locally, there will be regional variants. In Lucca, for example, the classic Easter cake is the ‘pasimata’. I’ve only bought this from good bakeries within the town walls and have never made it myself. La Pasimata is leavened bread, flavoured with anise seeds and orange peel. It is traditionally consumed during Lent and, blessed in the church, on Easter day.

Formerly, pasimata was prepared with the addition of saffron and fennel and was called pangiallo (yellow bread). There are actually two distinct types of pasimata: the Lucca version and the Garfagnana version.

  • Lucca’s version is kneaded like bread and divided into rectangular loaves mixed with aniseed seeds.
  • The Garfagnana version includes raisins and resembles a panettone (typical Milanese fruit cake, now gone nation-wide).

It would be nice to find a recipe for our area and make our own next year.

How was your Easter lunch. Any local touches we don’t have over here? Do let us know…

(Our Easter recital with audience)

Meanwhile, outside…

 

Rat Scabies in Longoio

A sadly large number of cats in our Val di Lima are either strays or poorly looked after. When I first came here fifteen years ago I started taking these cats from Longoio to be neutered at the province’s animal health centre formerly at Ponte al’Ania. Despite the fact that cats are not very good at keeping appointments I managed to have a large part of Longoio strays neutered.

A neighbour brought a cat in a particularly poor condition to my attention. The cat looked very sad and looked very undernourished. Its coat was matted, one of its eyes was infected and its claws were in-growing.

We found the cat actually belonged to a lady who, regrettably, was in very poor health herself. Sadly she has since left the world.

Fortunately, the cat turned out to be very friendly and was easily caught. Carlotta even made friends with it:

My neighbour did wonders in returning the cat to a more presentable condition and also managed to trim her claws.

The cat even got the new name of ‘Rat Scabies’, not so much because of the condition in which it was first found but after the stage name of Christopher Millar,  drummer of the pioneering punk-gothic rock band ‘The Damned’.

‘The Damned’ started up in 1976 and still going strong, (though without Rat Scabies, who has now gone solo).

Here are some pictures of the Longoio version of Rat Scabies.

She is definitely a bit long in the tooth but I am sure her last years will be spent in purrfect comfort.

Incidentally, there is a special Italian word for someone who feeds stray cats. It’s ‘Gattaia’. Earlier this year I visited Rome where ‘Gattaie’ have got together to form an excellent cat refuge in Largo Argentina. My post on that is at:

Happy Cats in Rome

I do feel that people can often be divided into those who have an affinity with cats and those who don’t. It is the same with so many other animals. I had a friend who had a very close link with beetles. Regretfully I could not share his passion although, change a vowel, I still love to hear their songs… Continue reading