A Lovely Visit to Lucca’s Green Walls Garden Festival

Last Saturday was a perfect day to enjoy Lucca’s Verdemura garden festival. It’s now in its twelfth year and is bigger and better than ever before. I was glad I went on that day as Sunday had rather somewhat dull and drizzly weather.

The hippie axiom ‘make love not war’ is singularly appropriate when dealing with Verdemura as the show is laid on the top of Lucca’s classic defensive walls, now over five hundred years old. Where there were cannons there is, instead, an encampment full of flowers and colour.

Lucca’s walls are the second major example in Europe of walls built according to the principles of modern fortification, taking firepower into consideration,  that have been preserved completely intact in a city. They are two and a half miles long and took from 1504  to  1648 to build. There are eleven bastions or bulwarks. (The walls of Nicosia, Cyprus, hold the record with a length of  three miles, also with eleven bulwarks).

 

The walls were designed as a deterrent and were never taken in anger. They did prove useful, however, when the Serchio flooded and their new ruler, Elisa Bonaparte had to be hoisted over them from a boat. Even today, after heavy rainfall the area encircling the walls tends to be flooded and a temporary moat is created.

The garden festival is centered around the Porta Santa Maria and extends to two bulwarks, Santa Croce and San Donato.

Here is a selection of photos I took of this year’s brilliant show. Were you there?

 

 

It’s Green Walls Time for Lucca Again!

Lucca’s walls are special because they provide a beautiful tree-lined walk on their wide expanses. As poet D’Annunzio wrote Lucca is:

‘La città dall’arborato cerchio’, (‘the city of the tree-lined circle’.)

Twice a year the walls become even greener because of the garden festivals they host. In Spring the festival is held on the northern part of the walls and is called ‘Verdemura’.

 

The festival started yesterday, Friday, and will continue until this Sunday, 7th April. I visiting it today and I’ve been told it’s bigger and better than ever before.

There are more than 200 Italian and foreign exhibitors: from garden centres thousands of different  horticultural species, shrubs, bulbs, tools and garden furniture for both flower and vegetable gardens, handicraft products and excellent food, all in the wonderful setting of the walls of Lucca.

In addition, there are talks and demonstration on all aspects of gardening.

Opening time is 9.30am  to 7 pm.

Weather-wise it should keep fine. After two days of storms bringing much-needed rain to a parched earth things should be really sprouting out now.

I’ve written several posts on Lucca’s garden festivals. Here are some of them if you want to read further and see more photographs.

Lucca’s Green Walls

Green Fingers on Green Walls

Incidentally, I don’t have to go to Lucca to see staggeringly lovely flowers. At a friend’s house in Lucca I came across these green-fingered specimens:

 

PS Lucca’s walls are the ones to go for….not the Mexican variety!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Rat Scabies in Longoio

A sadly large number of cats in our Val di Lima are either strays or poorly looked after. When I first came here fifteen years ago I started taking these cats from Longoio to be neutered at the province’s animal health centre formerly at Ponte al’Ania. Despite the fact that cats are not very good at keeping appointments I managed to have a large part of Longoio strays neutered.

A neighbour brought a cat in a particularly poor condition to my attention. The cat looked very sad and looked very undernourished. Its coat was matted, one of its eyes was infected and its claws were in-growing.

We found the cat actually belonged to a lady who, regrettably, was in very poor health herself. Sadly she has since left the world.

Fortunately, the cat turned out to be very friendly and was easily caught. Carlotta even made friends with it:

My neighbour did wonders in returning the cat to a more presentable condition and also managed to trim her claws.

The cat even got the new name of ‘Rat Scabies’, not so much because of the condition in which it was first found but after the stage name of Christopher Millar,  drummer of the pioneering punk-gothic rock band ‘The Damned’.

‘The Damned’ started up in 1976 and still going strong, (though without Rat Scabies, who has now gone solo).

Here are some pictures of the Longoio version of Rat Scabies.

She is definitely a bit long in the tooth but I am sure her last years will be spent in purrfect comfort.

Incidentally, there is a special Italian word for someone who feeds stray cats. It’s ‘Gattaia’. Earlier this year I visited Rome where ‘Gattaie’ have got together to form an excellent cat refuge in Largo Argentina. My post on that is at:

Happy Cats in Rome

I do feel that people can often be divided into those who have an affinity with cats and those who don’t. It is the same with so many other animals. I had a friend who had a very close link with beetles. Regretfully I could not share his passion although, change a vowel, I still love to hear their songs… Continue reading

Our Forests on Fire!

STOP PRESS FIRE EXTINGUISHED!

 

 

For almost a week now a forest fire has been burning in the Pizzorne, the range of hills that separate the Val di Lima from the plain of Lucca. The main areas affected are above Lugliano, Casabasciana and Benabbio.

I was first made aware of a major forest fire on the morning of March 31st when, looking out of our bedroom window at Longoio, I saw this:

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No, it was not a volcanic eruption, just an arsonist near Lugliano. Why should someone do this? I suggest one of the following reasons:

  1. A bonfire of brushwood and leaves got out of hand and started spreading through the nearby forest
  2. Someone wanted a quick way of clearing part of the forest so as to create new areas of pasture for his cattle, sheep and goats.
  3. A mad person / vandal decided to have ‘fun’ with nature. Some people are afflicted by a disease called pyromania in which they enjoy setting fire to things. Also, it could be a person who might have had a grudge against the forestry commission or a neighbour.

The fire was aggravated by two factors:

  1. The extreme dryness of our woodland which has hardly received any rainfall since the start of the year.
  2. The strong winds which have been afflicting our area over the past week. March here is particularly windy month.

On March 31st the papers reported that there was clearly a pyromaniac behind the fires devastating the mountains around Bagni di Lucca. As in last Wednesday’s fires, the flames started in the late afternoon, making it impossible to use airplanes and helicopters until the morning. There were three main fires affecting the whole valley between Benabbio and Lugliano.

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The flames, extended for over five hundred acres, are inaccessible and difficult to reach. Two helicopters from the regional forest firefighting service were also used. In the early morning operations were made difficult by the heavy accumulation of smoke, but visibility improved in the early afternoon, allowing the use of Canadair and helicopters.

This is the photo I took of the flames from our bedroom window. They are, clearly, more visible by night:

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On the ground three teams of fire fighters, three teams from the Tuscan Volunteer body and a fire brigade team were fighting the flames. Some motorbike riders were also employed in firefighting.

For two days there seemed to be no sign of the flames abating. The smell of smoke really got up my nostrils. I thought what a way to wake up to springtime for all the poor wild forest animals being burnt alive at this moment…to say nothing of the little birds in their tree nests….tragic, truly tragic!

Meanwhile, the sad rumble of water bombers continues to haunts the horizon. A third one has been called in today. The fires, though diminished, still burn our hills.

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PS In Italy water bombers are called Canadair. This is because the aircrafts used are Canadair CL-415s, amphibious aircraft  designed specifically for aerial firefighting and built by Canadair.

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Rain is forecast today. Let’s hope it goes some way to finally extinguish the fire, the likes of which I have never seen before. And it’s just gone March! Is the fire the result of global warming or just more mad people on the loose? Perhaps it’s a combination of both…

Anyway, full marks for the courage of the fire-fighting services and volunteers in attacking the flames. I truly hope the rest of this year will be quieter for them but somehow I doubt it. Look what happened last year near Pisa in my post here:

Hell on Earth near Pisa

Incidentally Sandra reminded me that we spent a night in that same forest way back in 2005. She writes: “What worries me is that early on on our Italian adventure we got thoroughly lost in the Pizzorne, even had to sleep there ‘au plen air’, was scary but safer than continuing in the dark with huge boulders everywhere due to a heavy storm. But reason for saying this is that along the way we saw very many abandoned houses some of which seemed lived in so I am wondering if this fire has affected these places too. Seems really a very sick person if this is truly arson I cannot believe this is really horrible.”

PS Apparently I have invented a new word in the English language: ‘brexiting fire’. My logic was thus: the fire is damaging our natural environment. Brexit is damaging our social environment. Verb ‘to brexit’=’to damage social environments’. By analogy, ‘to damage natural environments’. Gerundive phrase: ‘brexiting away’.

 

 

It’s going to be ‘May’ for April in Bagni di Lucca!

Inside sources from College Green state that Theresa May will be spending her Easter holidays in Italy, a country she has a particular fondness for.

An Italian break(****) for Theresa and her hubby

Although May’s exact date of arrival and places she will stay at have not been officially revealed I have it on firm authority from the owner of a prestigious Bagni di Lucca hotel that she will be spending some of her time in our lovely valley at the Terme.

May is known to be an enthusiastic walker and my friend who works in a local bookshop and newsagent has told me he has already received an order from 10 Downing Street requesting trekking maps to be sent there.

Bagni di Lucca is well-known for bombshell visits from heads and ex-heads of government – Ed Miliband was spotted at Bar Italia not that long ago – and it’s no surprise that May has chosen Bagni di Lucca  to enjoy its sylvan scenes and fine spring climate.

In expectation of May’s visit, and to tempt her with their delicious ice cream, another familiar bar is dusting down its tavola da billiardo ( ‘pool table’ to monolingual brits). It’s well-known that Theresa May recently played pool with Italian Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte (and lost). Rumours have it that Conte might even join May at Bagni di Lucca as she appreciated his hints on how to play a more effective game. (However, I can’t count on that…)

Anyway, if May doesn’t go down too well with playing pool she may well take up the offer of going into that other kind of pool at Villa Ada, which I am told, is undergoing some hectic renovations.

Bar conversation is already alive with news of May’s impending visit. However, not everyone here is happy. Remainers feel that she, as a former remainer, has let them down by not sticking to her original colours.

Greater trouble, however, may come from local leavers – the ‘Brexit believers’. As one of them lately declared in an animated chat at Bar Italia – the haunt of ‘brexiteers’ as this cult’s members (who trust in the second coming of Lord Clive and the re-establishment of The Empire) are called:

“May never wanted to leave; she should be beheaded and we should have left by now  … So f*ck*d up!! We need to be out .. so angry right now ..”

To which a remainer replied: “What? Out of the shackles of the EU into the stronger shackles of China, the US of A and any other country that can get visas, visas and more visas, cheapo trade deals and even cheaper cheapo labour out of a beleaguered child-poverty-stricken, asset-stripped, epidemic knife-crimed, zero-contracted, snail-paced growth since 2016 and huge wealth-gapped UK…..???. And you partaking of all the benefits Italy and the EU can offer you and…anyway, Theresa cannot be beheaded as capital punishment was abolished in GB in 1965…although in Northern Ireland it lasted until 1973.”

At this stage a fight broke out in the bar and chairs started flying, effectively stopping any further rational conversation. The intervention of a retired policeman from Essex, a reclusively unctuous classicist and a white-van driver did not help either.

I am quite sure, however, that the local Carabinieri will ensure, with their prompt attention and smart uniforms, that May will enjoy her walks, eating ice-cream, drinking prosecchi (not proseccos!) and playing pool, either on a table or in the water, in peace when Bagni di Lucca clasps her distinguished presence to its welcoming bosom.