Loads of Bread and Confetti at BDL’s Casinò

‘Pane e Coriandoli’, the carnival celebrations at Ponte di Serraglio last Sunday, was a great success. Turnout was excellent and participants of all ages had lots of fun.

 

(The casinò with, in front, a view of the river Lima)

The organiser, Roberto Lucchesi, included a photographic exhibition showing his previous incarnation as entertainments manager at a Casinò on the Romagna seaside.

 

Looking at the photographs I could not help being reminded of ‘Hi De Hi’, that terrific BBC 1980’s sitcom centred in a holiday camp. I felt that Roberto was truly Italy’s equivalent of Ted Bovis, alias Paul Shane.

(Paul Shane)

Some great photographs of the event were taken by Valerio Ceccarelli (see https://www.facebook.com/LIRIO1951/media_set?set=a.10210612753655766.1073742478.1254939924&type=3&pnref=story ) so I’ll just fill in the picture with the following:

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(A great welcome to everyone)

 

(Sorting out lottery tickets)

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(Face painting)

 

(Food and (soft) drinks ad lib)

The objective of collecting food for the needy of Bagni di Lucca was fully achieved.

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(Collectors Gemma and Gino)

In case, you’re wondering who is needy and who is not, all people below a certain annual income and suffering from a much reduced quality of life qualify for a special document and it is only to these people that supplies are distributed.

 

US Jeeps Cross the Devil’s Bridge

Recently, photographs dating from the last years of WW2 have appeared on local Facebook pages.

I was particularly struck by this one showing the famed Ponte Del Diavolo / Ponte Della Maddalena at Borgo a Mozzano being crossed by Allied Jeeps in 1944.

Here is the fabulous bridge as I saw it the other week. How the weather changes from one day to the next!

 

 

 

With all the other bridges blown up by the retreating Nazi-fascist troops the mediaeval bridge at Borgo a Mozzano was the only way to cross the Serchio north of Lucca. I suspect Jerry didn’t blow it up because he thought no vehicles would be able to use it. He was obviously wrong…

Thank goodness Jerry thought that. It would have been another tragedy to have lost this lovely bridge to the ravages of war. For instance, there used to be an attractive mediaeval bridge at nearby Calavorno:

After the war a new bridge was built further upstream which anyone going from Bagni di Lucca to Gallicano will recognize:

I’m wondering whether the Devil’s bridge was tested for carrying capacity before the Jeeps crossed it. I would have loved to hear the conversation among the US troops at the time.

Of course, it’s impossible to cross this amazing bridge by car now as there’s a bollard stuck in the middle of its entrance. If it were possible to get past this I’m sure arrests would follow, quite apart from having one’s photo plastered on the regional newspapers.

It’s a sobering thought, however, that a bridge built in the twelfth century by that formidable woman, Matilde di Canossa, to facilitate the crossing of pilgrims to the Holy See via the Via Francigena was used in the twentieth century, not to save people’s souls but to save Italy from having to suffer further years of fascist-Nazi hell and help to found a new peaceful vision of Europe.

Here are some further photos taken during that ever more tragic last year of WW2 when Allied troops were fighting the final battles against the Axis powers along the Gothic line crossing our part of the world.

 

 

 

Let us remember the over sixty years of peace we have enjoyed as a result of Robert Schuman’s vision (not to be confused with the romantic composer who has 2 ‘n’s at the end of his name).

The terrible thing about what is happening in the UK right now is not just the false promises proffered by a rapidly weakening government but the division it’s causing in families, constituencies, political parties and, ultimately, the country itself. The wounds inflicted by this atrocious dogmatic nonsense are, in my opinion, similar to those caused by the policy of appeasement in the 1930’s and the changed imperial outlook after the last conflict.

Guzzano’s Church on the Hill

The Chiesa Del Poggio at Guzzano, the next but one village to Longoio is a quite large and beautiful building. The church is easily missed as it’s hidden by a thick forest on top of the little hill (poggio) which gives the church its name.  Here are some photos I took of it in 2008 when it was always locked up and quite neglected.

On January 25th 2013 the church was extensively damaged by an earthquake. As a result much of the ceiling above the altar fell down, damaging the floor and benches. Fortunately, no-one was in the building at the time, else they could have been seriously injured or even killed.

I felt that the vaulting, which is a later 1537 addition, did not need to be restored but that the uncovered roof beams should be left exposed as they are more in the spirit of the original mediaeval construction and are also interestingly decorated.

Happily, thanks to local efforts, the church was restored and reopened for church service in August 2014. Fortunately it was hardly touched by the great storm of March 8th 2015, a tribute to its restorers.

A thing of beauty is a joy for ever and the church certainly has its own special beauty features.

First, is its position in the centre of a thick wood and at the top of a hill which (for me) evokes passages from Malory’s Arthurian romances.

Second, is its size: there are aisleless bays separated by five beautiful arches, the one nearest the altar flanked by gorgeous classical Tuscan columns in Pietra Serena – part of the ceiling here still retains its mediaeval lozenge-painted beams,.

Like so many churches and chapels in our part of the world the church, dedicated to the Madonna of Succour, is rarely open. The best time to visit it, however, is during May, the month dedicated to the Virgin.

 

A Sad Chapel in the Woods

 

The nearby village of Gombereto has three little churches (or chiesine) in it religious purlieus: San Giuseppe, standing outside the southern entrance to the village, Santa Maria dei Dolori, at the northern end, and Refubbri, the chiesina della Visitazione, which sadly stands (just) in total neglect, roofless and prey to ivy and the weather. The chiesina or oratory of the Visitation of The Virgin Mary to Saint Elizabeth, is mentioned in a famous poem by Robert Browning, who visited this area with his wife (For more information and photographs on this sad situation do visit my special web site at http://refubbri.tripod.com/engstart.htm).

As I returned from shopping yesterday I stopped to look at the melancholic chapel. Even in winter it was almost totally covered by foliage. The roof has long since collapsed but the inner arch supporting it was still intact, for how long goodness knows.

The little bridge connecting it to the road was still seemingly solid but, again, I wondered for how long – the Refubbri stream had become a raging torrent and I wasn’t quite sure if the bridge was safe to cross.

There was talk at one time of restoring the chapel at Refubbri and using it for non RC Christian celebrations but, to date, nothing has come of this. It might have also made a mountain rifugio or shelter for trekking in the area.

However, I noted that around the chapel council forestry workers were cutting down dangerous and obstructive trees and clearing out the stream bed.

I asked if they were going to clear the chapel of its encroaching vegetation but they said they had no orders to do so.

While there are many worthy causes to donate money to and many more distinguished buildings needing help I remain dejected at the thought that, for the thirteen-plus years that I have lived here, the little woodland chapel of Refubbri has no-one to love it and help it live again in some form whether that be even a hiker’s shelter from the rain. Who knows whether it will still be standing in ten years’ time? At least nature will destroy it rather than the mindless vandalism that has demolished so many abandoned buildings in London.

 

The Decaying Beauty of a Villa

Travelling to Pistoia on the road from San Marcello to Le Piastre one crosses the Oppio pass, 2693 feet high. Near the top of this pass there’s the wreck of a formerly fabulous liberty-style villa which is called Villa Bellesi and is inexorably falling into unredeemable ruin. Once its roof is further damaged there’s not much hope left.

 

It’s so sad; unfortunately Italy is full of these marvelous buildings just decaying away because they don’t happen to be ancient roman or renaissance or any other listed style.

From what I was able to gather the Villa Bellesi is in its present state because of a long drawn out inheritance squabble (inevitably!) between two sisters. I wish there was an offence called crime against architecture for the building is an exquisite example of art nouveau chalet-style and has gorgeous Ginori tiles decorating its exterior.

 

The interior was still accessible, though somewhat perilous, when I visited it ten years ago. I wonder if the staircase is still holding up. Someone already then had helped themselves to the bannisters. I can only guess at what they looked like.

 

I passed by the villa last year but found all its entrances and windows bricked up so was unable to access the interior.

The Villa Bellesi would make a superb large family residence or a boutique hotel: it’s situated in a splendid area of the Apennines within an hour’s drive of both Pistoia with its mediaeval wonders and San Marcello Pistoiese, a popular summer resort for the heat-stifled Florentines.

Italy’s unlisted ruins include not only rotting aristocratic edifices but also lunatic asylums, abandoned prisons, plague hospitals, mortuaries, failed factories and even whole deserted villages. Who wants them? Are there any persons out there brave enough to love any of these relicts anew?

Here’s a start. This is what the villa Bellesi used to be like one hundred years ago:

 

 

 

A Great Architectural Historian Lost to Us

We’d been at school together when, as he reminded me in an email two years ago, I’d collaborated with him in his campaign to save the Victorian  railway bridge over the South Circular road at West Dulwich station.  Here is the old bridge, wantonly demolished in the 1960s with its fine ironwork and its two pedestrian arches.

Here is the standard ,  boring bridge replacing it:

West Dulwich Train Station

I also remember him, as a schoolboy, protesting against the filling in of the school’s north and south cloisters with plate glass, ruining the terracotta details of the arches and making nonsense of the whole idea of a cloister.

Before (my photos):

After:

On another occasion he explained to me the cut-off corners of the bases of the columns in the Lower Hall by showing an old photograph of the embellishments these corners once supported.

I met him as an undergraduate in his tower room at Cambridge. He was wearing a Victorian three-quarter coat which he had had specially tailored. ‘Would you like to hear some music?’ he asked and wound up a horn gramophone. I think he played something by Sullivan. On his desk was his impressive design for the facade of a new Cambridge College: neo-gothic at its finest.

It was a time when the university was divided between the ‘greys’, who wore ties, tweed jackets and short hair and the ‘new age’ who wore their hair long and dressed in jeans and caftans. I wasn’t sure what to make of my school-friend but sensed that he was rebelling against both the ‘greys’ and the ‘new-agers’. I remarked to him whether, with his architectural sensibilities, he liked living in a Victorian gothic tower which jarred potently with the classical symmetry of the adjacent senate house. He jokingly replied: ‘actually it’s the senate house which is jarring with the tower.”

Recalling his school and college days he bemoaned the fact that our generation was brought up in the full flowering of the welfare state where state grants enabled merit rather than money to gain places at the country’s best academic institutions. ‘We were so lucky then. Quite different from the difficulties of today’s youth,’ he added with reference to his own children.

Years later, when I was living and working in Greenwich, I wrote to him to ask for his support against the demolition of St Andrew and St Michael, a church designed by Basil Champneys (1842 – 5 April 1935) and Grade 2 listed.

Despite the facts that the building was listed and that its architect was a supreme practitioner in the arts and crafts style and designer of some very notable buildings like Manchester’s Rylands library, Oxford’s Rhodes building and Cambridge’s former Classical archaeology museum my friend was, again, unsuccessful.

However, it is thanks to his tireless campaigning against architectural vandalism that the traditional red telephone box designed by one of his heroes, Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, still survives in many parts of the United Kingdom.

 

I hesitate to think how often his heart must have been broken through the wanton destruction by modernist philistines of so many of his beloved buildings from an age when Britain brimmed with confidence, courage and a sense of continuity. With regard to good architecture I wrote this post on local power station in our Lucca area with, in mind, his book on ‘Cathedrals of Power’.

Thinking Twice About Your ENEL Bill….

The shadow of the valley of death inevitably tinges us all. 2017 was a year where I lost several friends and acquaintances both of the two footed and of the four footed variety and those losses took place relentlessly even up to the year’s final days. In Gavin Stamp so many people have lost a true friend, scholar, artist and ceaseless campaigner for all that’s worthy to stand as good and often great architecture in the world.

(On the Orient Express in the TV series of 2007)

Cutigliano in the Snow

How did we spend New Year ten years ago? We rented a little flat in Cutigliano, which is around forty minutes away by car from Bagni di Lucca on the road to Abetone, and took to the ski slopes.

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Cutigliano itself is full of quaint corners and some lovely buildings. I’ve talked about it in various posts, for example at:

Cute Cutigliano

The “New” Towers of Popiglio

Dreaming of a White March

A Wet Big Top

The Pass of the Mysterious Cross

Four wheels Bad, Two Wheels Good?

Cutigliano’s church, dedicated to Saint Bartholomew stands a little outside the centre of the town. It possesses a fine pulpit but has a bloody past. In 1537 a massacre between two rival families, the Panciatichi and the Cancellieri, took place within its holy confines. Following this event the old church was burnt down and rebuilt in the second half of the sixteenth century.

While we were there in 2008 it began to snow and Cutigliano was magically transformed.

Today at Longoio the weather continues damp and misty. We last saw blue skies three days ago – a major ‘perturbazione’ has enveloped Europe with high wind and lots of rain. We look forwards to it going away soon!

Le Chiese Wren della City

Dopo il grande incendio del 1666, che distrusse la maggior parte della City di Londra, Sir Christopher Wren fu incaricato con la sua ricostruzione.  Volle rifare la città con bei viali larghi e diritti alla francese. Purtroppo, l’opposizione dei proprietari non lo permise e così Wren fu costretto ad aderire alla vecchia pianta di viuzze storte e strette. Questo pose un gran problema quando venne a ricostruire le chiese siccome i loro terreni erano tutti molti irregolari: poca simmetria fu possibile e poche belle viste monumentali in fondo ai viali. Wren risolse il problema con ingenuità e riuscì ad imporre la regolarità delle regole rinascimentali su luoghi precedentemente occupate da capricciosi edifici gotici.

Wren rifece 51 chiese e, in più, la cattedrale di Saint Paul. Di queste chiese solo una parte rimane nello stato originale, cioè 13. Altre 18 chiese furono demolite attraverso i secoli. Altre 4 furono distrutte nell’ultima guerra, tranne la loro torre e lasciate come rovine.  Altre 3 furono bombardate e le rovine totalmente demolite. Altre 9 bombardate furono poi ricostruite nello spirito di quelle originali ma senza tutti gli addobbi che le ornavano.

Delle preziose chiese di Wren che rimangano nello stato originale la più bella è certo quella di Saint Stephen Walbrook. Nel suo utilizzo dello spazio, nella sua pianta pressoché rotonda, nella elegante soluzione della cupola c’è molto da meravigliarsi in questa chiesa.

Completata nel 1679, St Stephen comprende una torre e una casa parrocchiale.

 

La cupola è l’originale progetto per Saint Paul ed è sorretta sul quadrato del corpo della chiesa su un cerchio formato da 8 archi agli angoli in una specie di variante bizantina. Questo dona una leggerezza veramente vispa all’interno.

 

L’altare era originariamente sul lato orientale, ma ora la chiesa è stata centralizzata con un altare in mezzo scolpito dal grande Henry Moore nel 1987.

Altre cose da notare sono il pulpito, il bel organo del 1760 di George England e il telefono originale dei Samaritani, un’associazione per aiutare, tramite un soccorso telefonico, quelli che vogliono suicidarsi.

 

Di interesse è anche il fatto che è sepolto qui il grande compositore, astrologo e matematico del quattrocento, John Dunstaple.

Ricordiamo, infine, che un allievo di Wren fu Hawksmoor, del quale ho parlato in un post recente. Non dubito che Hawksmoor abbia assistito alla meravigliosa fusione del quadrato col rotondo in questo piccolo gioiello del rinascimento inglese.

Un matrimonio

di guglie sempre nuove

dipinge il cielo

 

I Magnifici Sette

Il Natale, tra le sue celebrazioni religiose e secolari, è anche un giorno nel quale si guarda un po’ di televisione. Forse un bel film western? Ma il titolo di questa ‘post’ non riferisce al film omonimo ma, invece, ai cosiddetti ‘magnifici sette’ cimiteri urbani di Londra. Questi sono, in ordine della loro creazione:

Kensal Green 1832

West Norwood 1836

Highgate 1839

Abney park 1840

Nunhead 1840

Brompton 1840

Tower Hamlets 1841

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Fino al diciannovesimo secolo i morti erano solamente sepolti nei campisanti che circondano le chiese di campagna in Inghilterra. Quando c’è posto sono tuttora sepolti in quei luoghi, i nostri defunti. I miei genitori sono sepolti nel camposanto che circonda una chiesina nel Galles.

Una volta era così anche in Italia. Per esempio, esiste ancora parte della cancellata del camposanto che circondava la Chiesa di San Gemignano.

Nelle città, però, non c’era più posto per le sepolture attorno le chiese e, così, i primi cimiteri pubblici furono creati, secondo la legge del parlamento del 1832.

Kensal Green fu fondato dal legale George Carden che si ispirò al cimitero Pere Lachaise di Parigi. E’ un luogo meraviglioso, quasi un parco paradisiaco dove si può meditare a lungo sulle vane speranze della vita e la certezza della morte.

Esiste, però, tanta vita qui poiché il cimitero è anche santuario degli uccelli, le volpi, i gatti, gli alberi … Infatti Kensal Green è uno dei luoghi piu ‘verdi’ di Londra.

Qui si trovano parecchie tombe di persone famose. Per esempio, sono qui sepolti i compositori e musicisti Balfe, Cipriani Potter, Barbirolli, l’ingegnere Brunel, gli scrittori Wilkie Collins, Thackeray, Leigh Hunt (amico di Shelley), Pinter, Trollope e Jane Williams alla quale Shelley, innamoratosi, dedico’ delle sue poesie….e molti altri personaggi.

Inoltre, il cimitero offre un vero panorama di stili architettonici: dal neo-gotico al neo-classico e dal neo-romanico al neo-egiziano. Basta guardare a questi esempi che vidi sul viale principale del glorioso luogo.

 

Il restauro limitato offre una sentita visione della mutabilità della vita. Le edere che soffocano le tombe coperte di muschio, le sculture in fase di crollo, i nomi quasi spariti nel consumo del vento degli anni, l’erba che avvolge le lapidi e, (quando ero lì qualche giorno fa), il cielo grigio-piombo riempivano il cuore di dolci affanni malinconici.

In fondo al viale funesto si erge un tempio neo-classico, ai lati del quale si alzano delle colonnate che coprono le catacombe.

Più ad ovest si trovano le tombe dei caduti a fianco del canale che, una volta, portava le salme per barca per l’ultimo addio, un poco  come Caronte lo faceva attraverso il fiume Acheronte.

In fondo del cimitero l’edificio maestoso del crematorio apre le sue porte all’infinito. Fu qui che, quasi dieci anni fa, nel gennaio del 2008, entrò per cominciare il suo grande viaggio il babbo di mia moglie. In un giardino sempre pieno di fiori una targa ricorda questo grande italiano che tanto aiutò a ricostruire il rispetto per l’Italia dopo una disastrosa guerra. Per quasi quarant’anni fu segretario dell’istituto italiano di cultura a Londra, ente meritevole per tutti gli amanti dell’Italia.

 

Il Santo Natale si dice di passare ‘con i tuoi’. Ma ogni Natale che passa certi dei ‘tuoi’ non ci saranno, ahimè, più.

Questo mi fa pensare che la festa natalizia è anche un’occasione per ricordare quelli amati che non saranno uniti più con noi in questa vita terrestre. Qui includo tutti quelli che abbiamo amato e che ci hanno dato il loro amore, non importa se abbiano gambe o zampe. E’ stato proprio questo mese, il 17 dicembre che il grande compagno della mia vita, seguitore nelle mie camminate attorno Longoio, osservatore dei miei scritti e amico nei miei sogni riposerà per sempre, attraversato l’arcobaleno che conduce ai campi elisei dove un giorno saremo tutti riuniti.

Queste sono le ultime fotografie del mio carissimo gatto, Napoleone, scattate il 23 ottobre, un giorno prima che partì per l’Inghilterra dove tutt’ora sto passando il Natale. Per lui ci sarà sempre nel mio cuore il ricordo più dolce….e il suo cimitero sarà la terra vivente.

 

Mutabilità;

il vento soffia per noi:

tutto vola via

 

 

 

Hawksmoor: il Borromini inglese

Le sei chiese che costruì a Londra Nicholas Hawksmoor (1661-1736) nella prima metà del settecento sono allucinanti e originalissime. L’architetto fu allievo del grande Wren di St Paul’s cathedral ma ben presto divenne lui il maestro. I suoi edifici sono una specie di barocco inglese ma con linee richiamando sovente il gotico. Infatti, le torri gotiche di Westminster Abbey sono le sue invenzioni.

Il fatto che Hawksmoor non fece mai il ‘grand tour’ in Italia, consueto per il gentleman e l’artista inglese, dona alle sue opere un individualità ancora più marcata. Eppure, le regole classiche del rinascimento italiano le conosceva bene.

Le sei chiese create da Hawksmoor sono:

St George in the East (1714-29)

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St Alfege Greenwich (1712-14)

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St George Bloomsbury (1716-31)

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Christchurch Spitalfields (1714-29)

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St Mary Woolnoth (1716-27)

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St Anne’s Limehouse (1710-27)

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Li conosco bene tutte, specialmente St Alfege (dove abbiamo ascoltato il ‘Messia’ di Handel questo mese) e Christchurch, indubbiamente il suo capolavoro e sede di un bellissimo festival di musica ogni anno.

La settimana scorsa mi sono trovato a St George, Bloomsbury, che ha subito un recente restauro, portando la chiesa alla sua gloria originale.

Questa è stata l’ultima chiesa di Hawksmoor. Esternamente è da notare la torre finita con un imitazione del mausoleo di Alicarnasso con la statua del re Giorgio I in cima e il bel portico modellato sul tempio di Bacco a Baalbeck.

Ecco una mia foto del tempio di Baalbeck:

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Internamente la chiesa ha lo spazio di un cubo ed è fiancheggiata da un balcone su due lati per i parrocchiani. Si nota un bellissimo candelabro, un pulpito, l’unico altare ligneo, l’albero di Natale e le forme pulite senza ornamenti superflui – una tipica sistemazione di chiesa protestante dedicata alle prediche e agli inni.

Le chiese inglesi non avranno la esuberanza pittorica di quelle barocche italiane. Invece, serbano una sobrietà e eleganza tutta loro che meritano un apprezzamento speciale.

 

Forme ciclopee

rivelano l’arcano

dentro la mente.